Does anyone know where I could purchase a steering box brace for my ZJ, new, second hand don't mind which or anyone able to make one for me or if it's worth the effort modifying a LHD one for me, the one that Kevins off-road sells looks quite basic and in my non engineering/fabricators mind looks as if it could be modified to fit

I had the same issue with the rear hatch. It turned out to be the key was faulty and kept putting out an open code. Took awhile but I found a mobile guy who came out and made me two new keys.

110k miles. Very tidy inside and out. Only fault I’ve found (and the reason it was chopped in for sale) is the lift glass switch is stuck and was randomly opening the hatch.
I’ve got one on order from a broker. Rest of it all seems to be tippy top.

Well done.   How many miles has she done ?

And we need pics.

I have just sold mine (06-180K) and I had JKU rims with Goodyear Wrangler P 245 / 75 R 17. 110T.  The fronts needed a 5mil spacer to clear the caliper.

The 75's fill the wheel well much better than the standard wheels.

......I'm now looking to buy another late WK as well with sub 80k miles ....but her indoors doesn't know that yet.......

New owner here of a WK GC here. Specced up Overlander, 3.0 merc motor, all the toys. Love it so far!
Needs a new set of boots on it. It’s running 245/60/r18’s I suspect I could get a better choice of AT on a 17” rim… but will they clear the brakes on the Overlander? It’s quadradrive 2 if that makes a different. Not really thinking about a lift at this point….

I have water leaking from under the dash area on the drivers side near the accelerator pedal soaking the carpet - its a rainwater leak not any water from the air con or coolant. It needs a few hours of medium to heavy rain before it starts to drip dowm mainly behind the inside corner trim - rain appears near the wiring plastic cover next to the sill. I do not have a sunroof - almost impossible to reproduce a leak  using a hose - it needs constatant rain. It leaks when standing overnight.

Its a slow drip of water that I can see runs down the wiring loom near the door wiring grommet area under the dash near the A pillar but really difficult to see where it comes from as its literally a few drips a minute.
The wiper cover panel is bone dry but  I've added sealant along the underside of the window - no difference.
I've party undone the O/S wheel arch liner - drains are clear of leaves etc.
I've cleaned the door seals & channels.
Added sealant to the rubber grommet where it enter the A pillar plus I've sealed around the door hinges.
Engine bulkhead area is bone dry.

Not sure what do do next - behind the wheel arch liners all is clean with no body rot.

 

OK so after getting a run around and not finding a UK ECU programmer that will take on my PCM I decided to buy the kit needed and register as a MOPAR Independent.

That means that I can now do SKIM deletes and VIN updates for most Jeeps up to 2018, now I'm not ready to do diagnostics yet but hope to have PCM flashing mastered in a few weeks.

Any one has any PCMs laying around that they want unlocking and willing to let me practice on them let me know 

Hi,  hate to put a downer on your purchase but you should have bought a 4ltr petrol. Parts for the fiesel will be a nightmare for you to obtain stateside and parts are not really interchangeable with the petrol models. engine and driveline are not the same as the 2.5 or 4ltr petrols.

scan through the search option results will give you an idea of common issues and potential improvements.

No.1 injector is a pain as they are "unique" to the jeep and rely on a set resistance range with will change when the injector gets clogged with soot or the wire goes hard with age. depending on the value you can fool the ECM by adding a resistor. but if you engine wont reve past 2k then i would first check the intake pipe just to the left of the radiator (facing wind shield), these have a metal spiral spring inside the intake pipe as a support, with time this metal spring fails and allow the tube to collapse when going past 2k. replace the pipe or use and old mastic tube which surprisingly is a very good fit (cut to required length)

have fun

Hi,

Have you tried a search on the forum?  The XJ 2.5 diesel with its separate overheating heads has been discussed nearly to death in the past.

Try a few different search terms : VM 2.5,  2.5 diesel,  XJ 2.5 etc....

Anyone have info on 2.5L VM eng checking the #1 injector - maybe the ohm's or any inspection ideas.

I'm lost for experiance on this eng, its done at @2000rpm.