Topic: ZJ MOT Failures (Read 6929 times)

Brynjaminjones · « **on:** March 01, 2016, 11:45:45 AM »

Yet more Jeep things to be dealing with!

The ZJ has just returned from MOT with holes poked in sills, as well as a bunch of other smaller failures.

I now need to fairly urgently get the sills sorted, but have no idea where to go for this sort of thing.

What do you guys suggest?

Note: if replacing them, I want them to look original, rather than replacing with box section!

wildwood · « **Reply #1 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:21:14 PM »

I was just about to say box

Hope you find some cover type replacements as the originals go quite a long way up and are captured by other panels in the original manufacture.

They are paper thin and an insult to a ruffty tufty 4x4 tis why I went box

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #2 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:31:42 PM »

I am considering box, but Emily isn't keen. It's currently looking like this may be a job for a body shop to get it done well...

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bigjeepzj · « **Reply #3 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:34:25 PM »

Box section will give you better side impact protection to
and better for going laning

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #4 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:40:38 PM »

I did think that. Still beyond my ability, but I will enquire about it when I take the ZJ to a body shop later for quotes.

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dtooth · « **Reply #5 on:** March 01, 2016, 02:09:22 PM »

I did this to a zj

wildwood · « **Reply #6 on:** March 01, 2016, 02:57:01 PM »

You'll get raped at a body shop......honest.....

Box looks good .....somewhere there's my thread on mine......

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #7 on:** March 01, 2016, 05:34:24 PM »

Thanks for the help guys, and Jez, the box section actually looks pretty nice. Emily however wants it to look original, and whether or not we did box section, we'd still be getting a body shop to do it! The Jeep is now booked in to get the rust sorted so should hopefully be looking far too shiny in a week or so's time!

Next question: I need a new one of whatever these parts are called. Will this one fit a RHD ZJ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Right-Front-Axle-Rod-Assembly-JEEP-MOOG-DS1311-/291645817613?fits=Car+Make%3AJeep%7CModel%3AGrand+Cherokee%7CCars+Year%3A1997%7CPlat_Gen%3AZJ&hash=item43e772030d:g:hOEAAOSwJcZWe5-W

bgbazz · « **Reply #8 on:** March 01, 2016, 05:45:19 PM »

Why not stick your reg number in the box and see what comes back.

wildwood · « **Reply #9 on:** March 01, 2016, 05:47:39 PM »

Just read on that old thread I posted up that Lighties do replacement panels for the ZJ cills.

Hopefully they still do....

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #10 on:** March 01, 2016, 05:57:05 PM »

Literally just got off the phone with Lighty's and ordered most parts I need, but they say they don't touch things like sill replacement panels!

It would make it so much easier searching for steering components if places told you if LHD or RHD!

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #11 on:** March 01, 2016, 06:53:25 PM »

Damned expensive Jeep. Lighty's to the rescue - I've now ordered the following:

Brake pads all around
Front left CV gaiter
Left tie rod
Right tie rod end

It's also booked in for sill repair at a local bodyshop.

Gulp, this is going to be painful!!

daggie · « **Reply #12 on:** March 01, 2016, 09:17:40 PM »

Bryn
Do you still need a viscous fan for the xj

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #13 on:** March 01, 2016, 09:59:26 PM »

Quote from: daggie on March 01, 2016, 09:17:40 PM

Bryn
Do you still need a viscous fan for the xj

Yes!! I never got around to messaging you, and was going to put my XJ hold whilst we got the ZJ sorted, but if you've still got one I'm very interested!

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Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #14 on:** March 02, 2016, 08:42:21 AM »

Do I need to remove the hub from the half shaft to change the rubber CV boot, or can I pull it out all in one and slide the boot on from the other end?

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bigjeepzj · « **Reply #15 on:** March 02, 2016, 12:53:30 PM »

It should pull out as one

bisleywrangler · « **Reply #16 on:** March 02, 2016, 11:32:32 PM »

Yeah just pull the while lot out and slide it on from the diff end of the shaft.

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Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #17 on:** March 03, 2016, 11:48:29 AM »

Excellent, shouldn't be quite as painful as I was fearing!!

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Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #18 on:** March 05, 2016, 01:28:33 PM »

I'm having a bit of trouble with this and wondering if anyone has any advice.

Excuse me if I get the names wrong - lots of time spent on US forums!

I'm trying to disconnect the steering damper from the drag link and can't for the life of me shift it.

I've tried with all my strength with a ball joint remover, and tried much hammering, but just can't get it to budge. Any ideas what I should do?

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Dave69 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 05, 2016, 03:33:49 PM »

hit it harder or use a bigger hammer

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #20 on:** March 05, 2016, 05:31:43 PM »

Damn, don't have a bigger hammer! I'm also worried about damaging the thread on the damper as I'm reusing it!

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bgbazz · « **Reply #21 on:** March 05, 2016, 05:54:03 PM »

A wee bit of heat maybe? One of those small Gaz blowtorch thingies comes to mind.

Dave69 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 06, 2016, 09:47:10 AM »

leave the nut on the thread as you only have to break the interference fit. Hit the nut as this should protect the threads.

use a splitter to create a high pull force on the damper bolt and hit the steering arm body while under load

or tighten the puller FT spray with penetrating fluid (not wd40) and leave for 10 mins, go back and repeat. At some point you might find it apart. Done the same with a pitman arm

LairdScooby · « **Reply #23 on:** March 06, 2016, 08:36:45 PM »

Hydraulic bearing puller - like others have already said leave the nut on the taper to protect the thread and set the bearing puller up as per the instructions it comes with (they're cheap to hire but F-Expensive to buy!) and wind it in as tight as you can. Add some penetrating oil, wind it tighter if possible and leave for a while.

If all else fails, tighten the nut up tighter than it should be then remove it until it's on the threads just enough to protect them and try again.
Might sound daft tightening it but often this can help break a "rust-seal" on the taper and then the more normal methods work better.

Oh yeah - one last thing! Good luck!

geohn1997 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 08, 2016, 06:46:53 PM »

I used pitman arm puller and plenty of penetrating oil,kept tightening the puller and spraying eventully next day Bang it popped out.

Author Topic: ZJ MOT Failures (Read 6929 times)

dtooth

LairdScooby