Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: Alucardtnuoc on April 03, 2010, 02:37:34 PM
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Hi Everyone,
I am going to try and keep some sort of record on the progess of this build...... It is strictly a spare time thing, so may go on forever.... :hysterical:
First things first: Engine Cleanup.
From this:
[attachment=1]
To this:
[attachment=2]
Block is all nice and sorta clean.... got to clean out all the oilways. Amazing the amount of cruddy sludge on everything. And quite surprising how good a condition everything is. Minimal bore wear.... Super!
[attachment=3][attachment=4]
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cool :greggmo:
will enjoy following this
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you might learn a few things
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hopefully Pa, but it dont me im gonna risk doin any of them :003:
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Good luck with the build, seriously cool the cheifs... any pic of the body?
Happy days Maf
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Cripes. Amazing what you can do with a cheapo sandblaster and some kiln dried sand from B&Q. Trouble is, it gets everywhere. And I mean everywhere. Will post pics of the Chassis and the body once it is attached to the rotisserie, hopefully tomorrow if I can figure out how to lift the body off the frame without bending it...... Cheers everyone for taking an interest, and any and all constructive input about methods etc etc of what I am doing will be much appreciated.
I just have to find a decent machine shop in Nottingham to do the machining.
Anyone had their cylinders oversized? Is a Torque Plate 100% necessary?
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Started on the rocker covers yesterday, and found some really deep rust pits. No good for chroming, so paint it will be, unless BD has some chromed ones squirrelled away somewhere....
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
And could someone please tell me what this is??
[attachment=3]
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Had a look at the heads this morning, and decided the casting flash had to go....
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
Not really necessary, just OCD is kicking in...... :jpshakehead:
[attachment=3[attachment=5]
There is alot of casting flash in the runners too, which I am currently smoothing out.
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Sorry Vlad, chrome ones have gone to a new home, they were a bit ghay TBH :003:
Matt black is the way ahead my friend :headbanger:
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the tag with the no is the engene build code tels you of undersize or oversize bearings
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FJ gave me this link, interestin for ya trucks background if you have a true VIN:
http://www.ifsja.org/tech/figures/vin80.html (http://www.ifsja.org/tech/figures/vin80.html)
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Okey Dokey, so it was made in 1978, not 1974 like the log book says.... hmmmm
[attachment=1]
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:hysterical: i did say a true VIN, old truck mate, rusts easily, conglomeration of parts from differing trucks to keep one on the road
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Put it through the Birtys VIN decoder (http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?action=ezportal;sa=page;p=9) and you get this
[attachment=1]
but as BD says, nothing to say thats the original body
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hah, where we been keepin that hidden away then?
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Nope, this one was bought spankers in the States by the chap who brought it over here, the same chap who's barn I found it bricked up in. Here is the door tag too, and a piccy of the sticker of the shop in Arizona who fiddled with the motor.
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
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what sandblaster you using out of interest?
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Sandblaster... got it off ebay about a year ago. Does the job, but takes quite a while unless you have a HUGE compressor. Oh, and the ceramic nozzles wear out really quickly. [attachment=1]
Here is a pic of the really filthy old girl.
[attachment=2]
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cerokee s
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looks way better tha u described
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Yup, any ideas on the easiest way to get the body off? Anyone done it before?
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She is going to breathe better too I think....
Before:
[attachment=1]
After:
[attachment=2]
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Yup, any ideas on the easiest way to get the body off? Anyone done it before?
Plasma cutter and a forklift :003:
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8 american kids and a towtruck!
seriously i think ferrets your best chance of knowing that he has that many of them.
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I'd suggest removing the fuel tank as a precaution, then attack all the mount bolts with determined ferocity.
Application of angle grinder or cutting torch to remove bolt heads/washers then direct heat from a propane torch/cutting torch to free seized on spacer tubes and blow away the rubber cushions.
Best done out in the open with a fan blowing the smoke away from ya, expect the bolts to be utter pigs and the captive nuts to spin in their housings, BFBI will win through, then you just need a hi-lift and some beams and stands to jack up the body until the rolling chassis will roll out from under.
:greggmo:
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Matt black is the way ahead my friend :headbanger:
[/quote]
Not highjacking...... :icon_twisted: BUT went to halfrauds to get 1 can of primer and 1 can of satin black... £14 fecking quid. glad thay were the last 2 cans...
Anyway e-blag to the rescue http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Paint-Cellulose-SATIN-BLACK-FINNISH-SPECIAL-OFFER_W0QQitemZ390034257049QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint?hash=item5acfda7499#ht_987wt_941 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Paint-Cellulose-SATIN-BLACK-FINNISH-SPECIAL-OFFER_W0QQitemZ390034257049QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint?hash=item5acfda7499#ht_987wt_941)
I need loads for the winch mount and the rear bumper/winch and all the chassis that looks a bit unloved :icon_super:
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the tag with the no is the engene build code tels you of undersize or oversize bearings
Hey Bubba,
Found out what the tag on the rocker cover is....... 111N10
1 = Year, in this case 1977
11 = Day of the month engine finished
N = Check digit, same as in the VIN, tells what type of motor it is, in this case a 360
10 = Month engine built in
So basically the engine was built 13 months before the chassis..... how strange....
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I'd suggest removing the fuel tank as a precaution, then attack all the mount bolts with determined ferocity.
Application of angle grinder or cutting torch to remove bolt heads/washers then direct heat from a propane torch/cutting torch to free seized on spacer tubes and blow away the rubber cushions.
Best done out in the open with a fan blowing the smoke away from ya, expect the bolts to be utter pigs and the captive nuts to spin in their housings, BFBI will win through, then you just need a hi-lift and some beams and stands to jack up the body until the rolling chassis will roll out from under.
:greggmo:
Good call.... except only 2 of the captive nuts broke free..... application of grinder in progress. There is an amazing amount of 15 year old dried mud everywhere..... :100: Going to have to re-think the chassis twirler idea as the back mountings do not look all that strong. May need to join the 2 together......
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Hmmmmm..............
I don't want to put a downer on folk doing their own shot/grit blasting, but a guy I know was using dried kiln sand for blasting bits.
When I told the guy who does my shotblasting jobs, his eyes nearly popped out.
Apparently using certain types of medium (like sand) is a no no as there is a very high risk of contracting lung diseases like emphysema and silicosis from the dust.
Having said that the guy using the kiln sand was 49 with chronic bronchitis and the lung capacity of a 84 year old.
And he still smokes.
Nowt as stange as folk :greggmo:
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I have a full face respirator for just such jobs..... they use them in sawmills where they cut alot of MDF. Nothing like beathing comressor air.... :003:
Ancient Dirt anyone? [attachment=1][attachment=2]
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Just noticed the VIN decoder:- T150 three speed manual, Dana20 T/C
I never seen that in a FSJ in this country before :017:
Usually auto/quadratrac (upto '79) on Cherokees/Waggys, Pickups split 50/50 between autos or HD 4speed T18 with 8 lug 1 ton axles.
I'd be interested to find out what axles you got and what ratios ( I'd suspect Dana44's on 4.09:1)
Also I'd be interested to know how long the bellhousing is on that T150 box.
I bet it's not the ultra short jobbie fitted to the CJ5/7
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It was bought in the US by a dude on walkabout. He liked it so much he imported it here. not sure about the axles etc, once i get all the crud off them maybe I will find a tag.
I am planning to either put in an AX15 5-speed or a T56 5-speed. The AX15 should be a straight swap, the T56 I am going to have a look at this wekend to take some measurements.
Dial Bore Guage and Haynes manual should be arriving today, so can start measuring up the bits to go for machining. Still waiting for prices on getting the Torque Plate made up...... I believe they are a must when boring and honing the AMC blocks......
Anyone running a V8 with the Edelbrock Air Gap Manifolds and Carburetion? I am trying to make informed decisions before purchasing upgrades, but struggling because I like shiney bits..... :jpshakehead:
On a plus side, I will have an Edelbrock SP2-P manifold and a matching 4 barrel carb on offer.... pic attached.
Story on the Manifold..... It has small runners that increase the charge velocity at low RPM, makes heaps of power, just runs out of breath at about 3500RPM.
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3][attachment=4]
I have been smoothing the ports out on the heads..... cast iron sure is a pig to work with, especially after doing so many aluminium ones...... but I am reall please with the results so far.
Anyone done any head work on the cast heads before? The seats are 30 degrees. I think I am going to leave the intake seats at 30, and grind the exhaust ones to 45. I figure at low lift the 30 deg seat on the intakes flow more air that 45 degree seats would. Any ideas anyone? :100:
Also about to lift the body off, just got to get the gearknob off the gearbox. Seems like I have to take the entire top off the box just to slip the lever out.... odd. Any suggestions here would be welcome too.
Has anyone ever bouth stuff from BJ's Offroad? There are some bits I could do with.... just wondering.....
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From reading many IFSJA posts is that an AX15 will not hold up for long behind even a STD 360 let alone a tuned one.
Some place in the U.S. does a HD AX15 that is rated to stand up to a V8, but apparently, it wont, not off road anyway :greggmo:
Aisin/Warner AW4 auto box is a popular conversion as it is dirt cheap everywhere (std XJ auto box) has overdrive 4th gear and although not as strong as the mega-muscle TH400 or A727 it will stand upto our sort of lowly 300bhp all day.
Also I believe you can graft it onto a Dana300 transfer case with basic tools (you certainly can with an AX15) and don't need an expensive fitting kit.
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OK, I just thought the AX15 was the beat to go for as reading this http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm (http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm)
I am dead set against an auto box, I just do not think for offroading they are up to much... I have a TH400 off a Waggy, and would you believe it, from a jaguar XJS which is snap, just need to take the back plate off and stick on your transfer box....
I think I have a Dana 20, will check when I get home. Are there tags somewhere on the axles to identify them??
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why are you so set about not using an auto? most rock crawlers use them as they are a lot less damaging to the driveline.and you save a lot on burning clutch plates out.....
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this will help identify your axles (http://www.worldwideweed.org/Axle%20Identification%20Chart.pdf)
and I agree with Tina, so far only had manuals for off roading but next project is an auto
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[attachment=1]
Appears to be a T15....
With Dana ?? Axles with ??? ratios?
[attachment=2]
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OK, I just thought the AX15 was the beat to go for as reading this http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm (http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm)
Hmmmmmm..............
Novak certainly seem to have had a change of heart about the AX15, they were rubbishing them as being unsuitable for V8's a couple of years back.
Word is they are fragile to shock loads, no matter whos parts you stuff in them, so will stand up to roadwork OK, but likely go bang off road.
Tremec T176/7 seem to do OK, but only 4 speeds, basically, if it aint got an iron case, yanks will treat it with suspicion anyway :greggmo:
Another thing with novak, they are always pushing Chevy engines over AMC, but then you dont need an expensive conversion kit to fit an AMC V8 to a CJ do you :003:
You dont need novaks conversion kit to fit the dana 300 either, unless you need to clock it, all you need is some tools and an angle grinder :003:
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What about a SM465?
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Right, on with the show. After reading about Chief Baz's misfortune with his windscreen, I decided to get removing mine out the way, so IF i broke mine too, we could maybe pool together and get them from the same supplier... (maybe qty discount???)
Anyhow, a couple of simple steps, and out she popped.....
For future reference here is what I did.....
1) Remove the Stainless dress up surround..... about now you will notice that the rubber seal on the outside seems to be split all the way around....
2) Pull up the OUTER edge of the OUTSIDE of the rubber seal around the entire windscreen (see photo)
[attachment=1]
3) Using something thin with a point ( I used a nailfile... not mine as you can see by the fingernails.... :hysterical: ), on the inside of the windscreen insert the nailfile around the whole windscreen ( see photos )
[attachment=2][attachment=3]
This breaks the sealing strip holding the windscreen to the rubber.
4) Gentle pressure on the inside around the whole screen breaks any remaining sealer.
5) starting in the corner at the bottom, apply firm and EVEN pressure from the inside. Do not bang or force it. I did this by lying on my back on the floor of the jeep and pushing with my bare foot. Once the corner starts to pop out, move to the other lower corner and do the same.
Make sure you either have the wipers still attached, or have someone outside to make sure it does not get away.
6) Once the bottom is totally clear of the rubber, gently pull the top out by grabbing the screen and wiggling it downwards.
7) Wonder how the hell you are going to get that sucker back in when the time comes.
[attachment=4]
Hope this may help someone in the future!
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An NV3500 from a late Cherokee diesel or TJ 4.0 will take anything you can throw at it.
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All very do-able suggestions.... thanks. So how do I choose? Any more suggestions to confuzle me anymore?
Couple of pictures of the workshop..... there is some somewhere but I cannot find the thread....
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
And any thoughts on my rim choice??? :hysterical: :hysterical:
[attachment=4]
Going to lift the body off tomorrow. Wish me luck.
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auto every time
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Well out of my depth on some of these issues if not all but thoroughly enjoying the thread, keep it comming Vlad :icon_jook:
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auto every time
:imwitstupid: changing gear is THE NO1 most overated motoring experience
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:imwitstupid:
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Well out of my depth on some of these issues if not all but thoroughly enjoying the thread, keep it comming Vlad :icon_jook:
Yep !! What he said. :023:
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Door catch pictures....
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
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What about a SM465?
Bullet proof and easy and cheap to find (In US)
nest generation for the SM420 that had 7.0 some'at for 1st gear again bullet proof but not as many. Made from '47-'65 so no synchro on 1st
They both bolt to a SBC but its hello novak otherwise :icon_super:
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The Body is OFF! WooHoo!!! :icon_super:
A couple of piccys of how it was done.....
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
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I so chuffed I can start working on it to improve it now, instead of taking things off.....
Body ready to be mounted on the rotisserie....
[attachment=1]
Frame ready for a pressure wash and cleanup/inspection!
[attachment=2]
And somethings' nest...... :hysterical:
[attachment=3]
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top marks dood, no hanging around with you is there!
bet that forklift comes in handy, expect some envy to come your way :003:
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All seems to line up ok.... just got to find some 5/8 UNC bolts now.......
[attachment=1]
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GGGRRRRRR
#@%$&^%$ workshop envy
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we shold start a new my workshop space thread
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All seems to line up ok.... just got to find some 5/8 UNC bolts now.......
[attachment=1]
The jig is ACE!!!
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:iagree:
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GGGRRRRRR
#@%$&^%$ workshop envy
:hysterical:
not realy got even a useable covered space
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Getting there with the frame strip down.... I am pleasantly surprised at the condition of it...... seems to be in really good nick.
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
Lots of WD40 on the threads sees them undo alright.... What'dya think?
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nice one dood i have yet to see a rotten chief chasis
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:popcorn: i love these threads
when do you think it be done for ...high summer? :icon_biggrin:
september :icon_winkle:
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Right, chassis (frame) all stripped down bar the axles and springs..... so I made up some more brackets for my trusty rotisserie like so:
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
Then attach to the frame like so:
[attachment=3][attachment=4]
And I can now undo the U bolts an lift off the frame! I have found a place right by where I work who media blast stuff, so will get them to quote on blasting and dipping the chassis for me. My little sandblaster would take forever to do. So depending on price..... I may send it there.
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Need some help and/or advise. Is the weight of the frame + Axles about the same as the body?
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
Just that the brackets I have made up are drooping with the frame and axles on..... not alot mind, but enough to concern me that I will not be able to rotate the body properly....
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Et Voila! Frame ready to be cleaned up and sorted! Woohoooooo! Progress methinks.
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
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nice going
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excellent!more work done in 2 weeks than I have managed to do in 5 years lol
lead by example and this is an excellent one on how to do it.
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Yes speedy progress...
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love the build..................but...he is making the rest of us look real slow lazy gits, recon if we wait till he is at the assembly stage then each weekend we take it in turns going round his gaf and unbolting all the work he has done :hysterical:
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Agreed.
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He reminds me a bit of myself
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:017:
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Do keep up 29"
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love the build..................but...he is making the rest of us look real slow lazy gits, recon if we wait till he is at the assembly stage then each weekend we take it in turns going round his gaf and unbolting undoing all the work he has done, and hiding his tools :hysterical:
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So Dave - are you saying you are a tool?
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nope he is way too organised and productive on a vehicle restoration.
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Not much photo-worthy tonight I am afraid, just sandblasted the shackles, engine mounts, shock towers and metal prepped them so they do not flash rust.
I priced up getting the frame dipped and media blasted, £200.00, so am going to do a test run on a section of it tomorrow to see if it would be worth the saved time.... I would prefer to do it myself, it would cost about £20.00 in sand, but the time it takes with my little sand blaster.....
I am planning on painting the frame, suspension, brackets etc with the POR-15 rust preventative paint, undercoating it, the topcoating with Extreme Chassis Black. I have used POR-15 products before, and in my opinion, there are none better.
I welcome suggestions as to what others have used?
Got to start rubbing the wings down sometime this week so I can prep them to pull molds from. Still waiting for word on some doors.......
Bonnet has been panelbeaten and POR-15'ed a while back. That rust preventative paint is awesome. Dries like rock. I like it.
I have sourced most bits and bobs I need from the States, like door rubbers etc, just got to buy in slowly so the contingency fund is not wiped out all at once... :hysterical:
Laters Dudes.
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sounds like I shoulda used POR-15 on my bonnet instead of truck bed liner, maybe next time
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sounds like I shoulda listened to every one else and used something like POR-15 on my bonnet instead of truck bed liner, maybe next time I might even spray it instead of using a roller
fixed :hysterical:
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have u ever stopped to consider reasons why spray rhymes with ghay :eusa_naughty:
I rest my case m'lud
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what's goin on the Vlad? What u done today? Dont go tellin us that u have gone a day without doin what most doods do in a month (or a few years in some notable cases)
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:hysterical: You know all those really horrible little jobs that take ages to do? Usually right at the end when you just want it to get finished? Well, I am doing those bits first...... Cleaning up all the sodding little things now.
[attachment=1]
Finally figured out how to use the Dial Bore Guage..... Measuring up tomorrow so I can order the right pistons......
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All looking good so far.
Are you planning to lift it/fit oversize wheels or you gonna restore it to standard looking?
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Defo going to do a shackle flip on the rear, and like the coilover setup for the front. I have been looking at loads of kits, and am sure I can fabricate something myself when the time comes..... just got one hell of a lot of rust removal and cleaning before I think about it too much.... Has anyone else got any Chiefs running? With lift? Standard? How abouts some piccys?
I know there are a few about, but I would like to see some pictures!
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couple of mine on the link below, just four from the day I picked it up, will have to sort out some decent ones now its mot'd and moving, its all stock:
http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?action=gallery;su=user;cat=2;u=1190 (http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?action=gallery;su=user;cat=2;u=1190)
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More cleaning and De-rusting done today.... slow progress getting all these bit clean.....
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
Waiting for frosts POR-15 to arrive.... then I can paint something!
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Found some POR-15 in my paint cupboard! These parts will NEVER rust again!
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
Thats it for today I think..... Hungover from last night.....
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Cleaning up the Axles now.....
From this:
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
To this:
[attachment=3]
Getting there..... POR-15 arriving soon, along with some extreme Chassis Black.....
Once all the brackets and stuff are painted up, I can forget about them and REALLY start moving on the body....
No one got any ideas where I can get 2 doors from???
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Post up in the wanted, there are a few on here with waggys and chiefs lurkin in dark corners
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you mean there are a few on here that will never turn a wheel so might be sold as spares
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ooooh i would never be so harsh Dave
but u may have gleaned a nugget of truth there :003:
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Long time since I posted anything in this thread, so here goes for a new quessing game.... can anybody tell me what this is going to be??
[attachment=1]
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looks like a mould pattern, but for what? pos a grill or headlight trims? or maby speaker pods?
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i give up already
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They are going to be part of the grill structure. Not structural, so will be bonded to the uprights that hold the radiator, and the inside mudguard/fender will bolt to them.
[attachment=1]
Filled the inside of the lower front valance, so I can fill in the holes where I drilled out the spot welds, then I will smooth everything over and take a mold.
[attachment=2][attachment=3]
Will do the same thing on the front valance/grill structure, and pull a mold of that too. Look how rusty it is!
[attachment=4][attachment=5]
Will start work on the wings later in the week, but not sure weather to mold them with the wheel arch flare, or do that separately.
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do em separate, OK more work, but you will have more options, arches can be replaced easier if broken (not whole wing) and as a bonus you will have a more rigid wing with the arch fitted/bonded as a separate item
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Hi-Build primer test 1. Need to get a smoothish surface to start with, and had this primer from another job, so covered the valance, wait for it to dry and hit it with the DA sander. Hopefully it will fill in most of the rust pits. Then prime, board up and pull a mould. Or mold? Should be able to do a single piece mold with no part lines as this piece was originally pressed, so no overhanging angles.
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
On a side note, anyone with FSJ's that need the parts I am making, let me know.
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I think it is smooth enough now..... sanding is such a pain in it. Got no fingertips left.....
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
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Sanding, filling, sanding, filling and then some more sanding. But if I do a good enough job, maybe I will be able to flog some bits....
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
I started on the fender flares too, taping them up to fill the back to get a nice surface on the front. These are really rotten on the join.
[attachment=4]
Slow and uninteresting progress, but I thought I would share my dull and uninteresting life with you lot. Laters! :jump_125:
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I still dont know who is gonna do my J20 biiiiiiiiiig flares
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Well I'm still planning on making mine out of GRP.
But as I've never ever laminated anything yet, I'm gonna be on a learning curve here.
I tell you what Ade, being as we're both on the same skill level here, why don't ya get your hands dirty and invest in a GRP kit yourself?????
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:hysterical:
&
:hysterical:
&
:hysterical:
theoretically that sorta works, but as u well know the reality is different
when i need to do shit like that my hands naturally, and i really dont encourage it, grow these invisble, but entirely tangible, 16oz boxing gloves, and everything i touch turns to shit and therefore turns into an even bigger bill for me :003:
its an illness :010: and i need u to help me :icon_winkle:
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I may even get a slot on 'sport relief' next year :010:
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Well I am pulling molds for all 4 flares. If you can give me measurements on how much wider yours are BD, I can look at making up some plugs while I am at it.
Ferret, are you looking for standard or really wide like BD? If I carry on at the speed I am, I should have the front two molds ready in about a week or so. I still have to remove the rear ones and rebuild them, so they will take a bit longer.
Anyone else looking for FSJ flares? Wings?
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:hysterical: :hysterical: same skill leval he is still on crayons
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:hysterical: :hysterical: same skill leval he is still happily on crayons
fixed it for ya :003:
Vlad, u the dood, will get out with the ruler 2mrw, cheers :icon_super:
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And how are you going to even pick up the ruler with boxing gloves on :017:
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I can see it now ....
It's about the length of this string .....
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:icon_eek: how did ya know
thats scary :icon_eek:
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as previously measured, i reckon it needs a 9-10 inch flare to completely cover it, but its gonna look stoopid tho innit :003:
was readin this thread http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=9134.0 (http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=9134.0) and seems that the whole tyre has got to be covered, but i like to have a little flutter every now and then, and im sure a nice polite boy like me can schmooz the old bill, so I reckon 8" wider than stock will do the job nicely
waddya reckon Vlad, is an 8" incher front & back a goer?
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I'll mock one up in the coming weeks to give you an idea. 8" wider than stock? You sure? Not 8" total?
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shit, good spot dood, originally i was givin measurements wider than stock, then changed my mind, so ya right, 8" in total
cheers
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Boarding up the pieces to mold, should've done this first, as I will have to fill in the holes now.....
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
Started boarding up the holes in the grill structure too, and working out how to do the flanges on the fender flares. Some nice thick plastic sheet should do the job.
[attachment=4][attachment=5]
Ordered the Gelcoat and Resin & Matting today too, as well as a spare set of Manifold gaskets, so I can finish the head work.
Progress is slow, but it is happening!
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Hows it all goin then Vlad/
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faster than yours
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speed he started off thort he would be finished by now :003:
i also have an ulterior much wider fender flare motive :icon_winkle:
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yeah i know i may just have to come down there and cut ya nads off with a chain saw if you do
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no choice
got bout 8" tyre on the J20 showin
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dont worry bout it they will be to perished to use before it has its next mot :hysterical: :hysterical:
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got offered a set of goodyear wrangler mt at 37 x 12.50 x 16.5 yesterday at a stoopidly good price, so may be havin a swap around anyway, if i can pick up some cheap wheel then the deal def done, and that will solve many mot probs
so :wave-fingersmiely:
:003:
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:003:
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nice one
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16.5 is a Humdingler wheel.
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and a J20 wheel
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Dunno?? 8 bolt???
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no, that was a statement, not a question :003:
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Normally 15" that's like folding my semi prick in half sort of size....
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:hysterical: Mr H, im about 7 :icon_jook: behind ya :003:
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Progress is slow at the moment due to other commitment, but I am doing bits and bobs. Here is the grill structure just sprayed with Reface so I can get a really good smooth finish on it. The amount of filler used on this to build up the rusty bits and the bent bits and the sub-standard pressing is frightening. Also going to try the fenders out of Carbon Fibre - Blingy I know, but how cool will it look?
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
Foamed one of the fenders to support it and fill the rust holes, will show y'all when I can touch it without sticking to it.
Frame is almost ready for spraying with POR-15.
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you may have mentioned already and i just cant remember (but also cant be arsed to go back thru the thread), but are you reproducing this a stock or are you modding it (apart from the carbon fibre flares - which I will be knockin on ya dorr for if they cool) ?
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It is just going to be updated. First I need to get everything sorted and back on the road.
Fuel injection is a happening thing, just at a loss to which manifold to buy, have been looking at fabricating one, but I my TIG welder only does DC. Anyone on here an ally welder?
As funds permit, I will upgrade the axles to Dana 60's ( got the rear already), but will have to build the front one. I really want to change the front suspension to coilovers, and have a picture in my head of how I am going to do it, not sure about the rear, leaf springs are good for lots of torque. Looking to achieve about 6 - 8 inches lift in the long run, with the biggest tyres I can fit under it.
The engine I am hoping will have about 450 HP N/A, and when I turbo it should go to about 900 or thereabouts.
I have 3 TH400 gearboxes to play with, but seriously want to stick in a Tremec T56.
All the above is up in the air. It is what I WANT to do, not actually what will happen. Like I said, I need to pull finger and actually get some decent progress done on it. Bodywork is the killer, as I am too much of a perfectionist.
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Bodywork is the killer, as I am too much of a perfectionist.
To speed up the resto, you should sub-contract the bodywork to bulldog :hysterical:
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Hmmm, let me think about that one for a second...... How about no? :hysterical:
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errr excuse me, chief owners are meant to be like clan :eusa_naughty:
so, in answer to my first question, ya not doin much then are ya :003:
i have no idea how u have the time to do all that and make my flares :greggmo:
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Stuff happening, slowly.....
[attachment=1] Foaming a flare to keep its shape whilst filling in all the holes.....
[attachment=2] 1200 sanded the grill structure, ready for its final coat of paint then polish......
[attachment=3]And making new centres for someones lawnmower / tractor because they only had 2 studs holding it on, and decided to put the outrigger on, so the wheel centre destroyed itself.
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whats happenin here the Vlad? Progress?
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do you realy want to know ? or is it just for comparison
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mine is a runner Dave, so no comparison, i win :icon_super:
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dare i hint at video evidence or is that taking the micky
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u will witness the beauty in motion at cheapfest :icon_super:
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Here ya go Vlad, one tailgate, been dry stored, obviously could do wiv a wipe down, not perfect but TBH way way better than the one i got on at the moment. Got some surface rust on one corner and a few scratches but genuinely is v good:
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
[attachment=3]
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Hey BD, A few pics of the Grill and rear seats..... the little white dots on the upright seat is swallow poo........ little fookers got into my workshop and pooped on everything.
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
On another note, installing my new toy....... what I can't make now???
[attachment=4]
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cool, seats better colour than i thought, and good condition grill, so we got a deal? can u make sure the grill has the finishin trim that fits the bonnet please. And u want me to drag it up to cheapfest? now i fixed the roof rack i can take the seats as well.
dont suppose ya spare chief came with a roof rack? another couple of cross bars would be handy.
what is ya toy then?
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a chief rack would go on my scrambler well.......................mm like them seats better than the barf ones in you bulldawg
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agreed they gonna look fine in the Chief, but there is naff all wrong with my seats, its your taste that is skewiff
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what is ya toy then?
milling machine, cool toy for the garage :greggmo:
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never gonna be short of bread then :003:
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Howdoo Vlad, where are u dood? Whats happenin here, any progress?
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Progress is slow due to other commitments, but progress is being made. My ickle sandblaster is working overtime getting stuff all nice and rust free for prepping. Chassis is nearly done, just got to dip the front bit to get the rust out of the inside.......
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
Going to try this Eastwood stuff. Supposed to be really good, although it is going to ruin me....
[attachment=3]
BD, When you thinking of shooting over?
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TBH mate had given up hope, and have a buyer comin in a few days, but if that falls thru will come up when i deliver bubba his sankey, but that wont be until i get the J10 back (pre xmas :003: )
Even if the buyer takes the Chief I will hide the tailgate from him for ya
What were the doors like on ya new one?
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Doors are more filler than doors to be honest. On the whole, I am really disappointed in that chief. Was done over by the bloke as all the good spares he had for it he sold separately.
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will skip those then :003:
shame for ya but there are a lot of lying tossers around
even more reason to sort out this Chief where the old bugger is bein an old bugger
i shoud add that i aint plannin on bein a Chief free zone, i just wanna move mine on so i can find a widetrack to bash about without feelin bad or feckless with money it might b worth
anyhow Vlad, how ya been? Long time
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Defo a long time. Been hectic busy trying to set up a business. Sick of working for shitty pay.
Plan is to make the white chief into a truck with double back axles. Blue cheif is being restored to sorta original. I would love a J20, but too much going on to sort anything out.
I need to sell some bits to get bit of cashflow coming in, and have a 360 from a wagoneer mated to a TH400 I need to get rid of for decent money.
What does a 360 go for nowadays?
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My last one on fleabay was £500 start and buy it now £600, i took £550 cash and avoided fees, i coulda sold it half a dozen times, and it wasnt an engine that inspired any confidence, no gearbox with it but last th400 i had half agredd to sell was £250 (but i changed my mind)
just seen a double axle jeep recovery truck go on ebay v cheap, but that no help now :003:
whats ya new venture? im always lookin for new mates rates business :hysterical:
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:greggmo: here ya go, just to depress u now u back amongst us : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JEEP-air-cushion-rescue-recovery-6-wheel-box-/110581574503?pt=UK_Commercial_Trucks&hash=item19bf2ceb67#ht_500wt_1154 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JEEP-air-cushion-rescue-recovery-6-wheel-box-/110581574503?pt=UK_Commercial_Trucks&hash=item19bf2ceb67#ht_500wt_1154)
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I saw that, and woulda had it too had I not bought that white piece of shite. One redeeming feature about that is the wings. They are brand spanking new. New as in the last of the steel pressing replacements that were made. No rust, even still got the black factory undercoat on them. Tempted to put them up and see how much they go for.
If you know of anyone looking for a 360, let me know would ya?
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If you know of anyone looking for a 360, let me know would ya?
fleabay is your friend Vlad
and double bonus is that u get contacted my all the hidden FSJ freaks that need random parts
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I knwo Vlad has been about for a few moths but doesnt anyone know him? I got a Chief tailgate he wanted but unless I can get in touch then I will be ebayin it soon, so if ya do know him tell him to bell me
cheers
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have you tried the forum email system (not the same as PM, goes direct ti his email inbox)
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Cheers dood, will give it a go
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sorted :icon_super:
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good to know he's still about. all the fsj builds seem to have stalled or gone quiet
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he says hectic life at moment coupled with it bein too cold to work on it means a break from the rebuild
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Nice and warm now......any updates ?
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did speak to Vlad a few days ago, and he has the white Chief off ebay up & running, which in turn shud allow him to return to this project pretty soon