Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: Bulldog67 on December 17, 2011, 03:56:35 PM
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Right, will try to be brief:
The 4" secondhand lift for the Chief actually turned out to be a SOA lift using the heavier duty J20 springs and shackles but as I was already mentally (& financially) committed to the lift I smiled winsomely and got my bro to persevere, and it has now gone to 6-7" ish. New nitro shocks and damper from Llama4x4 (great service by the way). New pitman arm from 4wd. All U bolts replaced.
Looks great, but drives like its trying to kill me ASAP. Im not sure of the technical term but it 'snakes' down the road at any given time for no obvious reason (ie road conditions). I knew it wouldnt be as good as it was to drive but this is near non-driveable as its going to pull me into the other lane or a pavement at any given time. It is a very similar feeling to the time the steering box has worked loose on the CJ.
So, solutions please ..... ? I love the Chief, and want to get this right.
A load of pics below that hopefully capture all potential areas that may be the problem:
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stupid bloody site timed out :banghead:
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not sure but from your pics , it looks like you needs to sort the caster angle out, so need some caster shims.
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Yup castor........ find out the castor from the manfacturer....probably about 5-7 degrees and then put angle finder on top of knuckle and read what it is....... the more castor... ie the top of the knuckles are reclining back to you the driver, the less darty and shite it will be......
Also your drag link aint doing you any favours being that short and at that angle.............
You're now going to hate me....... but flat top knuckles are your saviour then you can have the steering arm or drag link and also the tie rod above the springs out of harms way.....and flat!! and then no sway wallow darting and stuff. combo of the both really........ :icon_super:
Big article in one of the JP mags you got off me :icon_twisted: No I can't remember what date :icon_biggrin:
Welcome to the world of perpetual mods :hysterical:
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pretty sure lighthouse have got some flat top knuckles
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I'm with WW, you kingpins should lean back slightly, yours are leaning forward quite a long way :icon_eek:
Does your steering still self centre ? I'm betting it doesn't.
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set mine at 7 degrees
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I'm with WW, you kingpins should lean back slightly, yours are leaning forward quite a long way :icon_eek:
Does your steering still self centre ? I'm betting it doesn't.
coudnt say whether it self centre to be honest, but will take your word for it that it wont :icon_biggrin:
seems intial diagnostic consensus is agreed
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:iagree: with all above
looks like neg caster, it will steer like a knackered shopping trolly,
from memory it should be between 5° and 7° but this is where you will need to make some sort of compromise, the greater the caster the more stable at speed but less agile around corners the rig will be, before you go for the max caster remember the greater the caster the greater the pinion angle will get and this will cause vibration and increased UJ wear. the methods mentioned will all work but sort of knowing how you like to drive fast I would also consider looking into having the tubes rotated, this will be expensive but will give the best results regarding caster and pinion angles
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:iagree: cut the c,s off tip the pinion to were you want it rotate the c,s to your caster
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:iagree: cut the c,s off tip the pinion to were you want it rotate the c,s to your caster
You do realise this is BD you are talking to.....he has the mechanical comprehension of a wet towel :lol_hitting:
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Just put it back as Jeep intended and magically your steering will return to normal :massage:
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Man will learn nothing if he stands still Dave
besides, the old springs have already been weighed in with one of those uber ghay 4.2 engines :d030:
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very true :greggmo:
lesson here is its easy to fit a lift kit, making it useable and driveable takes time
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Nothing lots of parts and fluff can't cure Ade :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :steeringwheel: :steeringwheel: :banghead:
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hmmmm, cheapest easiest first, knuckles dont look cheap, and im guessin rotatin the tubes will be even more so, but im needin an idiots guide to shims
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Available in 2 4 6 and probably 8 degree .... they go ..in your case of a SOA under the springs and on top of the axle to tip axle in required direction..available from loads of people probably but I got some now on Bubbas truck from Steve at FTE and they were from Rubicon express.
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cheers Jez, so they are axle specific?
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and is it an axle off or on job?
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They relate more to the width of the spring and then you need the correct sized hole in the wedge, but that can always be 'clearanced'!
Support rig and loosen u-bolts and pop it in (fnarr) tighten u-bolts and test ..........then check............ 1 hours work :icon_biggrin:
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it will be installation specific you will need to measure your current spindle support centreline the then add shims to obtain the desired angle.
eg: current setup is -3° and you want +6° then you will need 9° shims, if current is +1° and you want +6° then you need 5° shims
this should help
(http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14273/img/14273_334_1.jpg)
what ever you do you should try and keep the pinion angle to +/- 3°
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:greggmo: doods :023:
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:greggmo: doods :023:
And YOU accuse ME of departing the Cult of BD by going all technical......Pfffffff....
the above might as well be written in chinese .... makes as much sense :sign0023:
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the above might as well be written in chinese .... makes as much sense :sign0023:
thats why we add pictures :hysterical:
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:greggmo: doods :023:
And YOU accuse ME of departing the Cult of BD by going all technical......Pfffffff....
the above might as well be written in chinese .... makes as much sense :sign0023:
Im just a conduit dood, dont stress, Im still the president :king:
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Here is a good amount of info on flat top knuckles. They are the only way to go to get the steering correct. When I canged the axle in my TJ I added flat top knuckes and the steering and track bar angles are greatly imporved.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html (http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html)
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Cheers bud :greggmo:
In truth im tryin to avoid any more significant cash as I wasnt expectin to have done so much already (3500 over budget :icon_eek: ), so at this point im gonna give the following advice (or variartions of it) I have received from a couple of birtys:
"alternatively get someone to cut the front spring purches off and set the axle at 6-8' and then reweld them on
it won't matter that prop don't run straight as long as its not an extreme angle and I doubt that putting it back a few degree's from where it is now will make that much difference to be honest.
If it does become a problem then you would probably need to look at some form of custom prop using a double cardan or cv type joint but I doubt you will need to go there"
Clearly long term flat top knuckles are the way to go, but unless lightys are going to be cheap on an item (yeah i know :eusa_doh: ) that will be another £400-500 so its just make it work at the moment. I can look at doing that when I have the J10 or CJ7 back on the road. The CJ7 will move into my bro's once the Chief is out, but that has a very long list, and the J10, well, that is another story
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it won't matter that prop don't run straight as long as its not an extreme angle and I doubt that putting it back a few degree's from where it is now will make that much difference to be honest.
normally I would agree but that would be for someone who drives a bit slower than you ade, at prolonged motorway speeds it will be an issue
try and get a price for tube rotation, its a one off mod that will allow the use of standard parts without any extra stress
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I presume you is Quadratrac and so can't do the Free wheeling hubs trick....................shame..... NB is right....
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just been reading about a wagoneer soa conversion that was done at home, the only thing he needed to change was to cut and put the spring perches on to the axle at the correct angle and change the front prop for one of an early xj so that it had a cv type joint rather than UJ.
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In some cases with SOA when you have the castor correct the steering will end fouling the springs. If you have to rotate the axle enough to get the correct castor you maybe forced to go with flat top knuckles.
Also does your front driveshaft have a CV joint at the Tcase end? If not then you will need to rotate the diff back down since the UJ angles should be roughly equal to avoid drive shaft vibrations. If you do have a CV joint then you are fine having the lower joint straight.
Here is a good article from pirate4x4 about moving inner C’s
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Hybrid_Axle/HybridAxle.htm (http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Hybrid_Axle/HybridAxle.htm)
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right, will do the perches first, and try and find an early xj prop
if that doesnt work then knuckles and tube rotation as the steering will foul
so my question this time is where the chuff would i get the tubes rotated? have no idea on where to even start lookin or who/what would do them
cheers
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I would think someone who builds props is the first place I would look. Or decent machine shop, you can have a go yourself but you need to be a bloody good welder!
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do you mean builds axles?
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think he does, the main point is to get both tubes rotated the same, welding is pretty basic stuff, any competent welder should be able to handle it
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no someone who builds propshafts as they have the tools, welders/lathes etc.... axle builders tend to just have dial gauges and measuring equipment, any half decent machine shop might be able to do it.
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so is it a pro job? special machinery?
google is drawing a blank :011: shame its all cost coz presumably would be a good time to go alloy shafts
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no, a good engineering workshop can do it. most is simple just the lining up is critical
remove axle
remove hubs and shafts
drill out tube welds (most are held in with a couple of plug welds through the pumpkin casting)
important bit line up and clamp the tubes while in unfixed pumpkin
rotate pumpkin to required position and reweld
rebuild and refit
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pretty sure bro will know a good workshop, and it doesnt sound as hideously expensive as i initially thought
cheers dood
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I have seen it once where they ground the weld on the back of the inner C's. This was done so they could be narrowed but it is the same principle.
Either way have a good luck to see how far this will move the steering to ensure you don't have any contact before you start attacking things.
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Correction
Have good look not luck!
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i guessed, altho it could have been a freudian slip :003:
just looking at it it would seem flat top knuckles and hi-steer woud have to be done even if they were turned
have contacted lights so waitin on a price for the knuckles, but seems secondhand ones from the states arent mental money
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do the perches first and dry fit em before welding, may be easier to sacrifice a degree or 2 of caster to clear the steering.
afraid its a case of try and measure, then try and measure again
useful tools will be an inclinometer and laser level (can lend you if your man don't have)
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cheers dood
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http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/narrowing_a_ford_dana44.htm (http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/narrowing_a_ford_dana44.htm)
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again :icon_super: top work dood, cheers :023:
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On my XJ I had to find a balance with the caster - all the way to stock and the angle on the UJ was causing vibration but with a bit less the handling is acceptable and vibrations have gone.
Shims would be the way I'd go, although on my XJ I fitted them differently from how WW described - the instructions on my Rusty's ones were to remove the centre pin from the springs pack and pass it through the shim and then back through the leaf pack (it stops it ever popping out).
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on a 6" SOA he would need some massive shims, moving the perches is a more practical solution but will lead to some nock on mods being needed
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cant see a way round it other than flat top knuckles and shaft turned, just gettin prices on both at the moment, knuckles still may be done 2ndhand altho lights have a pair on an axle so is gonna sort a price, and im hopeful ifsja will come up trumps. If the shafts turn out expensive at a workshop them bro is confident of settin up a jig for it
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Move perches is only way and a safe way otherwise bit of off road articulation and you'll be spitting shims all over the place.
However...... shim it drive it until propshaft/ castor is at the best balance that you can acheive.THEN measure and weld the perches.....
Hate doing things twice...... no no no :icon_twisted:
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While I'm at it I really think that angle grinding the welds and removing the C's is a hope in hell scenario.......
It'll never happen as neatly as the pics on Ranger Station.......
Mostly they just (seen this done on US TV) put axle in oil cooled chop saw and cut Cs off then use press to get remains of tube out or bin Cs and put high zoot Reid Racing Cs on...... but they cut so they can shorten full size Dana 60 down to TJ or CJ length....... then you got to get custom shafts $$$$$$$ :jpshakehead:
I wish you luck BUT I think you might find the above to be true :icon_twisted:
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Move perches is only way and a safe way otherwise bit of off road articulation and you'll be spitting shims all over the place.
However...... shim it drive it until propshaft/ castor is at the best balance that you can acheive.THEN measure and weld the perches.....
Hate doing things twice...... no no no :icon_twisted:
for once not sure I would go the same route as you Jez, I would do a dry set up with unwelded perches to see if where everything else ends up, never know may be you can sacrifice a degree on caster for steering clearance and you can also measure exactly how much rotation is needed
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Yes......... In clear light ....... why did I suggest that......... unwelded dry fitting is better........... tis what I did to get mine angle correct :jpshakehead:
But be careful if you drive it :icon_twisted:
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looking at the pics he currently has the perfect high speed set up for 100mph in reverse i bet she runs perfect even take his hands off the wheel i reckon
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I believe you are being flippant Kevin :eusa_snooty:
Whatever happens im learnin shitloads, even tho im not actually gettin my hands dirty, i now for instance kno that that big tube thing is called an axle :003:
Gotta take the axle down to a machine shop to get a quote, which is a pita but it has to come off again anyway, so the hunt for knuckles still goes on
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you have far too much money to waste.....lol
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nooo :010:
the kids are goin hate me when they find empty santa sacks on xmas day :jpshakehead:
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so far via ifsja been offered another 401
and some knuckles, that are attached to a W/T with a 401
one day Im gonna get on a plane and fill a container
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with bullshit :017:
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you can try as much as you like to drag me down into the netherworld that too many live in that is void of any dreams and only driven by meek acceptance of their lot, but it aint ever gonna happen :d030:
They said it couldnt be done, but .............
Chief V8 :wave-fingersmiely:
CJ8 V8 :wave-fingersmiely:
J10 V8 :wave-fingersmiely:
CJ7 V8 :wave-fingersmiely:
So a plane and a container at some point in the future shouldnt be too tricky :icon_super:
and of course when it does happen I bet you wants some parts slipped in there :greggmo:
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:hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: bite
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In which case :wave-fingersmiely:
ya fucker :hysterical:
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anyways you need all the help you can get cos George Osborne is out to get ya
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yeah I know dood, may well be selling t6he fleet come May anyway :icon_sad:
will just have to keep one to use to get me to the job centre :010:
which one tho I have no idea :017:
(I will be hoping to sell them running and complete tho Pa :icon_winkle: )
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what does this mean:
left and right flat top 44 knuckle. Unmachined\stock $150
being offered at good price but dunno what that would entail coz he also has said:
I can get machined "ready to go" knuckles around $325. Those are machined and drilled, but naked. no arms or studs
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at a guess they are rough castings and would need to go to a machine shop before use
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unmachined means they are not drilled machined and tapped for high steer arms but are as the factory intended.
You need the expensive ones..sorry bout that :icon_twisted:
then you'll need the high steer arms and all the rods(2) and the ball joints etc........
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so does not the knuckle just move it so it can sit up above the springs?
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and BJ's have the kit, but with just a passenger side knuckle
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/ProdInfo.asp?pid=883&cid=13 (http://www.bjsoffroad.com/ProdInfo.asp?pid=883&cid=13)
Im getting more confused as the days go by :017:
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Unmachined means the top section where the upper arm will go is not machined. All the rest of the knuckle is the same. You would have to have the tops machined flat and three holes drilled in each to take the arms. Very easy to do if you have access to a milling machine. The dimensions for the stud locations can be found on a drawings on the internet since everyone uses the original Chevy pattern.
Just watch that the knuckle casting was intended for flat top knuckles. If I remember correctly several castings had flatish areas on the top but were not designed for upper arms so they are not thick enough to take the stress.
This web site tells you what knuckles will work etc.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html (http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html)
The kit you were looking at is designed to move the drag link up higher for large lifts to correct steering angles. It does not move the tie rod up so if you have issues with spring clearance this will not help.
You will also need new upper arms, 9/16NF studs, nuts and tappered cones. These are all easy enough to get and you can have the arms made easy enough if you don't want to buy them from the states.
buy as much as you want since shipping containers from the states are not that expensive. I only had a problem with the costs on this side. The transport of a 20 foot container from Felixstowe to Cambridge was the same price as the Caribbean to Felixstowe!
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Im getting more confused as the days go by :017:
Getting :hysterical:
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so do I need two (ie both sides) flat top knuckles, that are machined?
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Yes 2
the right one will have 2 holes in it, the outer hole for the drag link(steering)
then your bullet proof :icon_twisted:
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The question is if the steering with hit the springs when you get the castor correct. If it does then you will need high steer knuckles for both sides to move the steering arms above the springs. Rotating the castor back raises the steering points on the knuckles so you will probably have issues. With high steer arms you are already above the springs so there are no interference issues.
The kit you were looking at only moves the drag link above the springs so you will have the same issue with the tie rod and the springs.
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Looking at a lot of pictures on the internet and it looks like most people can get away with just raising the drag link on the one side. You may only need the one flat top knuckle but you will need to set everything up and measure first. I would cut the spring perches off and set the castor correctly before ordering anything. This way you will be able to see exactly where the steering rods are located. Most of the pictures of FSJ's with soa the tie rods are just clearing the springs but there is no room for the drag link.
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http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204 (http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204)
trawl thro this site..........all you'll need and he a good geezer. :icon_twisted:
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so basically I need this?
http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204&rn=694&action=show_detail (http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204&rn=694&action=show_detail)
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Yes
He also does away with the double hole right side and has the drag link intersect the tie rod like the factory jobbie..works well like this as no tangle uppy things will happen.
Others prefer the double hole system.........usually Dana 60 stuff which has more room to move. :icon_super:
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ok, will drop him an email for a shipping quote, but I really really really really really really really really really really really really should have just bought a new 6" lift from bjs and be done with it :banghead:
cheers for ya helps doods
the only plus point is that it seems buying a rear shackle flip is not necessary as the current one can be used as a template
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Looks like you're in a world of pain here bro :icon_rolleyes:
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Will be sweet when done Ade
Looks like your building yourself a keeper.................. or at least the front axle :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
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Looks like you're in a world of pain here bro :icon_rolleyes:
Looks like every penny made from selling the spare CJ8 is winging its way across the pond :011:
Will be sweet when done Ade
Looks like your building yourself a keeper.................. or at least the front axle :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
Once the suspension is finished and all fluids changed, and the edelbrock hi performance manifold, 670 avenger carb, hei dizzy, new seats, TJ flares (so a hack n slash job), and gangsta windows are all fitted - THAT IS THAT FOR A VERY LONG TIME :003:
Then we are moving onto CJ7 build so full roll cage building will be the next thread :icon_super:
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altho the AGR SB2 steering box is also calling :003:
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Go PSC...................... hydro assist it will have to be....................... as its for the road................ :icon_twisted:
I'm well pleased with my PSC full hydro.................... 1st time ever that I''ve been able to steer on rocks and stuff....oh yes oh yes :icon_super:
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Once the suspension is finished and all fluids changed, and the edelbrock hi performance manifold, 670 avenger carb, hei dizzy, new seats, TJ flares (so a hack n slash job), and gangsta windows are all fitted - THAT IS THAT FOR A VERY LONG TIME :003:
:hysterical:
Good luck with that
:hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:
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Go PSC...................... hydro assist it will have to be....................... as its for the road................ :icon_twisted:
I'm well pleased with my PSC full hydro.................... 1st time ever that I''ve been able to steer on rocks and stuff....oh yes oh yes :icon_super:
Lead me not in to temptation :096:
:hysterical:
Good luck with that
:hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:
Honestly, an entire 12 months minimum (not taking into account breakages :003: )
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if its any consolation, whatever route your took to a 6" lift you would have the same caster/pinion angle issue
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It will be sweet when done and with all this work you're doing you'll know what's broken when it goes bang and stops moving.
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It will be sweet when done and with all this work you're doing you'll know what's broken when it goes bang and stops moving.
it doesn't move now :003:
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Aint that the truth....
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11 months mot, so this is just a temporary set back
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11 months mot, so this is just a temporary set back
And so says your neighbour :violence:
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in the finest xmas tradition i would like to say screw that fuckin rodent, he can kiss my :icon_butt:
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in the finest xmas tradition i would like to say screw that fuckin rodent, he can kiss my :icon_butt:
Steve would one like to elaborate??
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fooook nows , ask uncle Ade
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in the finest xmas tradition i would like to say screw that fuckin rodent, he can kiss my :icon_butt:
Steve would one like to elaborate??
I was referrin to my neighbour of course :003:
and now xmas is over i can go back to 'he can fuck off and die' as opposed to the 'he can kiss my :icon_butt: '
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back on topic tho, sorta: I woke at 330am this mornin in a cold sweat about the cost of all this :jpshakehead:
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that much lift on almost anything brings issues
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Know how you feel BD putting a log arm on my zj cost alot more than the kit as needed new props, Tcase (yes the atlas was an indulges) , re-gear, modified track arms and I still need to do more work to sort the steering to get rid of the dead spot
so keep carm and carry on
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that much lift on almost anything brings tissues
corrected it for ya mate. :king:
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Know how you feel BD putting a log arm on my zj cost alot more than the kit as needed new props, Tcase (yes the atlas was an indulges) , re-gear, modified track arms and I still need to do more work to sort the steering to get rid of the dead spot
so keep carm and carry on
WJ steering conversion may help - with flipped inserts on the knuckles the drag link is at a much better angle, plus you gain dual piston brakes.
I doubt very much this any help to BD so sorry for the hijack - if WJ dana 30 knuckles do fit your axle it could be a route??
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Do they fit - anyone?
Im all for easier options, altho i doubt it will be an option, far to convenient
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your track rod ends are already on top wj has totally different ends and bearing set up
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I knew you would have the answer :greggmo:
could be a day to buy a lotto ticket as im bein so prophetic :icon_super:
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keep ya fingers xd for 2mrw doods, we are givin the finger to engineerin workshops and goin home brew on turnin knuckles and shit like that :icon_eek:
thanks to guilty parties on here
and threads on pirate
and probably fearless daftness :003:
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:icon_eek: OMG
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and just think dood, the first time you ever responded to a post of mine was to tell me what the fuck a shackle was :lol_hitting:
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I have the faith in those around me :icon_super:
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yup cos you will be locked out of harms way
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and just think dood, the first time you ever responded to a post of mine was to tell me what the fuck a shackle was :lol_hitting:
:hysterical: look what I've started :icon_super:
We'll have you identifying spanners soon :003:
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please take lots of pics, we need photo evidence of you in action
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:imwitstupid:
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did you not see him in last nights vid :017:
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please take lots of pics, we need photo evidence of you in action
errr define action :003:
im only the dood at the kettle :greggmo:
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I will have full clobber on tho :icon_super:
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keep ya fingers xd for 2mrw doods, we are givin the finger to engineerin workshops and goin home brew on turnin knuckles and shit like that :icon_eek:
thanks to guilty parties on here
and threads on pirate
and probably fearless daftness :003:
By 'we' you mean your the tea boy and someone else is doin the job then. :jpshakehead:
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yup but we do need lots of pics of the job
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I will be the wing man :003:
Pics if i remember but the cold may well numb my skull beyond and help
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BD...assistant kettle operator...run away...
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slow going, and semi success, but in part hit a brick wall as I need tied rod cup/cone shaped washer thingy, and steering rod bushes and metal washers - and lightys cant help :icon_eek:
sullied myself by goin in a landy shop and they were fuckin useless, as were the local motor factors, as were screwfix (desperation by then) - so HELP :100: HELP please, where did ya get yours for old iron?
oh yeah, also flat top knuckles been ordered
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No-one :010:
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yup a few placees do a kit that has a reamer tool and the insert to fill the old taper in so you can flip the rods
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and those places would be please?
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or what i stick into google to search?
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yeah its been shown a few times in jp
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well that google trip at least found me the parts via ebay.com
but also heavy duty steering rods that come complete :jpshakehead:
but no joy on the reem/taper tool which could easily be the cheapest solution
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www.fte.co.uk (http://www.fte.co.uk) across the river from you as some tapered inserts that u just drill a normal hole and fit it in to give the taper for the ball joint think there £10 quid a pixels
see link below to see how they war used
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoOTKSteeringLinks.htm (http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoOTKSteeringLinks.htm)
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I used the tapered inserts described on the go-jeep page. I ordered mine from goferit direct but if Steve at FTE has some then even better (quicker). call him on his mobile rather than email if you want a response! You'll need to drill a 3/4" hole and have them welded in professionally if the knuckles are cast steel like on my XJ/WJ version.
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secret, so it would seem.
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what is a secret?
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The ones Steve sell i don't need welding in as they are over size and are presed in
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never used FTE before but i hear good things - cheers gents
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check they are a big enough taper for fsj track rod ends much larger than cj
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check they are a big enough taper for fsj track rod ends much larger than cj
Girth for BIG BOYS....
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Maybe I missed something but why do you need inserts when you have flat top knuckles on order?
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lookin at options, and I have the knuckles on order but at that point not handed over the cash
still bloody havent as im waitin for the dood to wake up long enuff to tell me shippin :jpshakehead:
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inserts were pre flatop
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i think now they still use them for added shear strength if i'm thinking the correct interpritation
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nowt to do with the SOA per say coz im still waitin on the arrival of the knuckles but in the meantime some shuper shexyiness has been added:
horn inducing matt black edelbrock performer manifold
[attachment=1]
boner breaking matt black edelbrock rocker covers
[attachment=2]
matt black rocks :headbanger: :headbanger:
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Sweet! :greggmo:
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thirsty :greggmo:
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Im saving for lpg :003:
Or Greggmo reckons big bastard blazer diesel option
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So is there a carburetor or just a hose pipe :hysterical:
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:hysterical: reminds of this:
[attachment=1]
Holley 670 truck avenger :greggmo:
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Flat Top Knuckles are having it large in da house :icon_super:
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:greggmo:
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mmm, picture no 2, aint those things going to clash when articulatin :icon_eek:
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:die:
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come on then, full xplanation please why im not gonna make it to the breakout :010:
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just the angle of the pick i think lookin big
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translated into idiot please
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it dont matter none ......................... or mocaj thinks pic two looks as though things will crash in to each other steering rods and ati roll bar but its the dead ahead veiw nothing else rod did sweet job go test it you might be able to lose anti roll bar anyhoo
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Just an odd fact. The sway bar does not have to be connected to pass an MOT. It has to be present and bushes in good condition but not connected. I had to put the front sway bar back on my jeep even though I don't have brackets on the axle.
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on older stuff i have thrown them away and no one ever noticed
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On the YJ I removed all traces of roll bar and track bars front and rear and had no probs for 9 years of MOTs............... or is that cos I live in the Fens :icon_twisted:
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Cheers gents - phew :greggmo:
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The truck looks good.
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...... rod did sweet job go test it you might be able to lose anti roll bar anyhoo
he has indeed :greggmo:
and cheers Delk, TBH gets sweeter lookin every time I look at it :icon_super:
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Finally took it for a long ish ride today - and steering is bang on even on 35's and all that work - just like it was pre-lift
happy days :icon_super:
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luckily I dont have to resort to plan B:
[attachment=1]
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Well done dood, IOW in the beast ?
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Shud be, few issues to fix:
1. doesnt like bein floored - it does the opposite to what it should
2. front bench and rear belts
3. rear fenders - rotten so need the xenons put on
4. brakes wank - hav the hydroboost
Hopefully all achieveable efore IOW
Will be gutted if not coz wont be goin remotely off road or green laning otherwise
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Well done buddy. Knew you'd get there in the end. :greggmo:
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Cheers dood, dont mind sayin but it has been a right stress at times but had some good advice and my bro done a crackin job - shame he dont post or visit anymore coz IronRod has done the bizzle schnizzle innit :003:
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cool well done