Topic: Willo's Challenge Truck build "Project T-J" (Read 66168 times)

wildwood · « **Reply #50 on:** March 05, 2012, 06:12:12 PM »

Close to you is FTE down at Wickford on the way to Sarfend................ Steve .give him a call on 07973198483 done 4 axle regears for me over the years.......... used to be and don't quote me................

£200 cash per axle............. but you gotto take the axle off and take it to him.

willo · « **Reply #51 on:** March 05, 2012, 07:57:49 PM »

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willo · « **Reply #52 on:** March 06, 2012, 09:17:00 PM »

front teardown has started

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50 mm od x 38 mm id *cough* Gas pipe ordered for control arms, 5mm box section ordered for new front part of chassis for fwd +5" stretch, not sure what to do with the rad mind, any ideas? Fook it off to the back and put the winch where it was, kinda in the hole where the grill was? or bumpstop so the pumpkin doesn't hit it

wildwood · « **Reply #53 on:** March 06, 2012, 11:33:43 PM »

Seen a few (Pirate rigs) that have done the winch behind the grill shell but it was a small Warn RC ...looks good but not what you want for a challenge truck. The twin motor rig wont fit.

Gas pipe?? Also known as schedule 40 I believe.

You can use 4mm on the chassis extension cos that was the thickness of the original (on the YJ anyway) twas what I used....

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #54 on:** March 07, 2012, 08:46:44 AM »

That seminar has really sunk its teeth into your creativity vibe

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wildwood · « **Reply #55 on:** March 07, 2012, 10:47:59 AM »

Gas pipe.........

thought I would do my research before opening gob!

Gas pipe or schedule 40 has a low carbon content (fragile) and has a psi yield of 30,000...ERW has a yield of 32,000

gas pipe is cheap but don't use it on stress areas obviously not suspension..you might be ok with the tie rod but a length of DOM will sustain knocks and bends and stuff cos its psi is twice as much.....

Pipe within pipe is not as strong as the combined wall strength that it might share with a single individual pipe.

Just a heads up ..but hey maybe I'm wrong.......just thought it wise to point out............ I'm not having a 'Pirate' like flame or nuttin

Tis all in this piece

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/4_link_tech.htm#MaterialRecommendation

willo · « **Reply #56 on:** March 07, 2012, 11:16:03 AM »

Thanks WW. The problem was sourcing tube in anything that had an id of 45.5mm and a wall thickness of 6-7-8mm.

I found some chromoly that was close but is near £100 for 3 foot

I dont know perhaps sourcing pipe in the uk ain't like the states where it seams. Lol! That everyone can weld to aircraft standards and the is a metal shop on every street corner....

Also i guess the time lumit factor isn't helping. So we'll give it a go, and if it don't work, we'll try somet else, by which time my wallet may have recovered and i'll br able to afford some t45.

So for the gas pipe we will be turning the threade bungs down 3.5 mm or so to suit

wildwood · « **Reply #57 on:** March 07, 2012, 11:26:00 AM »

Before you go down that route........

My terraflex hi-steer kit came with big effin fat 10mm wall octagonal alloy tie and link rods and they take 1 ton tre
they are arrow straight and apparently can bend 2-3 inches and regain shape (springback)

I wheeled em hard and no probs

The steering link I shortened both ends to allow it to fit the wide wide 1 ton and big tre so should be correct length for yours.
The tie rod is not altered so you can cut it a bit........ they are threaded left and right and threads go in a long way.

Just a thought.....yours if ya want.... £50 do it?...... Might have to charge ya postage cos they aint filled with helium

Here's a pic.
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oops articulation???

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #58 on:** March 07, 2012, 11:29:39 AM »

stickiest tyres in the world

willo · « **Reply #59 on:** March 07, 2012, 01:33:37 PM »

The landy boys reckon they are using gas pipe no issues. You gotta remember that uk froadin aint the same as the stuff in the states.

If it dont work at least i can say we tried

And having looked at charts n that its sched 80, which is somewhat stronger than 40

http://www.mycheme.com/technicaldata/standard-pipe-sizes.html

Nosebolt · « **Reply #60 on:** March 07, 2012, 01:43:43 PM »

as well as the cost of materials, remember to factor in the cost of doing the job twice

willo · « **Reply #61 on:** March 07, 2012, 02:01:36 PM »

Quote from: Nosebolt on March 07, 2012, 01:43:43 PM

as well as the cost of materials, remember to factor in the cost of doing the job twice

Sorry but i ain't gonna get on the road if i wait around to get that elusive ideal piece of tube, unless of course you have some better suggestions

Personally i'd rather learn from mistakes and at least had a go and been out driving it to proove i am wrong rather than scouring the internet for some bit of unobtainium only purchaseable in uzbekistanian ferrets on the 3rd night of michaelmass in outer mongolia......

wildwood · « **Reply #62 on:** March 07, 2012, 04:54:28 PM »

There you go Willo big fat rods....... 38mm or 1.5" and 10mm wall thickness and hexagonal (not octagonal)

The TRE are offset as you can see and fit a Dana 30 tapered knuckle hole. The threads will accept a 1 ton TRE which is why I shortened the steering link..... If tie rod not long enough for you use 1 tons TRE to increase length substantially.

They also 'Mer Up' quite well which should interest some on the forum

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Warthog · « **Reply #63 on:** March 07, 2012, 05:27:38 PM »

Solid bar, track rods can be straightened easier in the field, my 2p's worth

Im liking those hexalicious one's though....

Be good to see this truck in the Flesh, Willo

willo · « **Reply #64 on:** March 07, 2012, 07:25:31 PM »

A bit more progress today:

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This Used to fit in that gap:
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willo · « **Reply #65 on:** March 07, 2012, 07:28:36 PM »

So look what also turned up:

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Gonna need some help i.d ing, so come along all you big axle specialologists, here is the info I took from it today:

43133

Rm42

3000 or 30COD

10 bolt diff cover

6.5 " from centre of axle to bottom of pumpkin

8x6.5" rims

61" between drum flange and 64 " middle wheel to wheel

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Bulldog67 · « **Reply #66 on:** March 07, 2012, 07:30:49 PM »

Yup, I concur, it's definitely a big axle

willo · « **Reply #67 on:** March 07, 2012, 07:38:00 PM »

Quote from: Bulldog67 on March 07, 2012, 07:30:49 PM

Yup, I concur, it's definitely a big axle

feckin lot of help you are

Warthog · « **Reply #68 on:** March 07, 2012, 07:53:33 PM »

Ford

F250 or 350

willo · « **Reply #69 on:** March 07, 2012, 07:56:28 PM »

Quote from: Warthog on March 07, 2012, 07:53:33 PM

9" Ford

F250 or 350

well I reckoned f250 or f350, but was thinking on it being a dana 60/70/80, as there is no unboltable 3rd member...

isle of man · « **Reply #70 on:** March 07, 2012, 07:58:02 PM »

Try THIS

willo · « **Reply #71 on:** March 07, 2012, 08:03:08 PM »

Quote from: isle of man on March 07, 2012, 07:58:02 PM

Try THIS

thanks, according to those pics, it looks like dana 60/70 as there is no 80 to look at, interestingly said axle is only 1" closer to the ground than my d44 which is the difference between 33's and 35's

wildwood · « **Reply #72 on:** March 07, 2012, 08:06:11 PM »

Tis a 70 but cover off and measure ring gear........ you'll be wanting discs instead of those heavy drums.....

Warthog · « **Reply #73 on:** March 07, 2012, 08:06:59 PM »

May help

http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm

Warthog · « **Reply #74 on:** March 07, 2012, 08:12:23 PM »

Quote from: Willo on March 07, 2012, 08:03:08 PM

Quote from: isle of man on March 07, 2012, 07:58:02 PM
Try THIS

thanks, according to those pics, it looks like dana 60/70 as there is no 80 to look at, interestingly said axle is only 1" closer to the ground than my d44 which is the difference between 33's and 35's

A wee trim needed on the case then? Seen it on Pirate...

Didnt you look at these axles Mr Wildwood?

Author Topic: Willo's Challenge Truck build "Project T-J" (Read 66168 times)

Nosebolt