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Author Topic: TJ Dana 30 Lower control arm mount re-build  (Read 9229 times)

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Asylum

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« Reply #25 on: May 01, 2007, 09:22:01 PM »

:lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
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Warthog

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« Reply #26 on: May 01, 2007, 09:51:59 PM »

Asylum you are gonna have to answer to the "Site Foreman" for giving me those gloves :)
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greggmo

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« Reply #27 on: May 01, 2007, 10:13:20 PM »

even he looks baffled at those gloves. :lol:  cool pic mate.
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tedthefed

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« Reply #28 on: May 02, 2007, 09:05:40 AM »

I think the site foreman wants some STEAK............s
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Asylum

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« Reply #29 on: May 02, 2007, 11:19:02 AM »

Wont argue with the foreman. She's aarrrrdddd!

 :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

 8)  8)  8)  8)  8)

Hey Hog, you started it with the gloves anyway, dont go blaming me cause greggmo thinks they are gay!!  :lol:

Mik

You said in an earlier post that its important to have adjustable upper control arms, it may be a dumb question, but why is that?

Clayt
 8)
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isle of man

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« Reply #30 on: May 02, 2007, 12:24:19 PM »

it's for the pinion angle................next weak link.




peter henry
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Warthog

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« Reply #31 on: May 02, 2007, 02:12:15 PM »

Can I weld that to the chassis too? :wink:
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isle of man

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« Reply #32 on: May 02, 2007, 03:08:46 PM »

of course you can,  and i will expect the corresponding photographic evidence..............not that i would doubt you!!!!!!!!! or your intentions!!!!!!







peter henry
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Asylum

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« Reply #33 on: May 02, 2007, 04:50:06 PM »

Quote from: "isle of man"
it's for the pinion angle................next weak link.




peter henry


OK.

At the moment the driveshaft is dead in line with the pinion on the present arms and factory uppers. Would I be correct in saying then that as time goes on and the springs sag then the top would need to be adjustable to keep this alignment correct?

For all this we have spoke of only the front, I am guessing the same applies to the rear axle and mounts? The mounts on the D44 I would asume to be stronger than that of the D30 (Probably incorrectly) and should not need the same amount of reinforcement?

Cheers
Clayt
 8)
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isle of man

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« Reply #34 on: May 02, 2007, 05:45:28 PM »

Quote from: "Asylum"
OK.

At the moment the driveshaft is dead in line with the pinion on the present arms and factory uppers. Would I be correct in saying then that as time goes on and the springs sag then the top would need to be adjustable to keep this alignment correct?

the stress is on the flex


Quote from: "Asylum"
For all this we have spoke of only the front, I am guessing the same applies to the rear axle and mounts? The mounts on the D44 I would asume to be stronger than that of the D30 (Probably incorrectly) and should not need the same amount of reinforcement?

Cheers
Clayt
 8)



on the rear it is the upper axle mounts that will give you trouble i have never seen the lower rear break free as the front does..........



peter henry
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Asylum

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« Reply #35 on: May 02, 2007, 07:43:32 PM »

Cheers Peter

Sorry to keep picking yours and everybodies brain but how do I adjust the axle to suit the pinion under flex? My thoughts may be incorrect but is it because the drive shaft can run out of linear travel, probably not the correct term to describe what I am thinking but I mean the drive shaft can not extend or retract enough? Please correct me if completely wrong.

As far as the rear goes, if the lowers were johnny jointed and the axle triangulated does that solve all the issues with the rear?

I have had another thought. Been looking at the Johnny joints and am wondering how they can be effective when bolted in between two solid bits of metal! They have 30 degress movement but as the joint pertrudes only slightly from the case and is then bolted between two bits of metal larger than the caseing, that is going to stop/restrict movement to the point the metal case will foul the inside of the mount, or is this restricted movement enough for suspension travel and the unused johnny joint movement an added bonus?

Cheers
Clayt
 8)
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isle of man

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« Reply #36 on: May 02, 2007, 08:36:29 PM »

Quote from: "Asylum"
Cheers Peter

Sorry to keep picking yours and everybodies brain but how do I adjust the axle to suit the pinion under flex? My thoughts may be incorrect but is it because the drive shaft can run out of linear travel, probably not the correct term to describe what I am thinking but I mean the drive shaft can not extend or retract enough? Please correct me if completely wrong.

As far as the rear goes, if the lowers were johnny jointed and the axle triangulated does that solve all the issues with the rear?

I have had another thought. Been looking at the Johnny joints and am wondering how they can be effective when bolted in between two solid bits of metal! They have 30 degress movement but as the joint pertrudes only slightly from the case and is then bolted between two bits of metal larger than the caseing, that is going to stop/restrict movement to the point the metal case will foul the inside of the mount, or is this restricted movement enough for suspension travel and the unused johnny joint movement an added bonus?

Cheers
Clayt
 8)


wow...........your now talking, if you fit johnny joints alone you will be impressed............to do as you have listed above is in the realms of much expense im affraid.



peter henry
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Mik

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« Reply #37 on: May 02, 2007, 09:07:28 PM »

Quote from: "Asylum"
Quote from: "isle of man"
it's for the pinion angle................next weak link.




peter henry

OK.

At the moment the driveshaft is dead in line with the pinion on the present arms and factory uppers. Would I be correct in saying then that as time goes on and the springs sag then the top would need to be adjustable to keep this alignment correct?

For all this we have spoke of only the front, I am guessing the same applies to the rear axle and mounts? The mounts on the D44 I would asume to be stronger than that of the D30 (Probably incorrectly) and should not need the same amount of reinforcement?

Cheers
Clayt
 :roll:
Unfortunately its not quite that simple because rotating the axle also effects your pinion angle. The front pinion should ideally be 1 degree above parallel (IIRC).
Both the pinion angle and the caster angle cannot both be correct in a lifted Jeep so a comprimise is required. Unless you have an opportunity to change the axle geometry (which you just missed) it is accepted procedure to re-introduce as much caster as you can until the prop starts to vibrate and then back it off an odd degree. As the front prop is so long on a Wrangler and already has a double-cardan at the TC end it is quite tolerant of mis-alignment.

The rear contol arm mounts are no stronger than the fronts but having diddy springs back there means that it cant flex as much as the front therefore putting less stress on the mounts.

Adjustable arms in the rear allows you to dial your pinion angle in and you have no geometry issues back there. However you do have a very short prop, no double-cardan joint and a weak-as-you-like slip yolk so a slip yolk eliminator kit is very recommended.
The correct angle at the back with a std prop is to have both UJs at identical angles.

A Johnny joint casing does not foul the mounting bracket at full swivel.

Mik
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Asylum

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« Reply #38 on: May 02, 2007, 09:43:31 PM »

Cheers Peter and Mik

Mmmm triangulation does look expensive but I was hoping I could bribe Warthog into lending me his expertise at some point in the future.  :lol:

I am fortunate enough that when I shipped a load of bits from the US I bought a slip yoke elimator and Rubicon Express double cardan prop along with a terraflex belly up skid plate. I have already fitted these and have been running them for as long as the suspension now.

If I had known at the time the result of wear and tear applied by the kit I got, I would have put the extra cost on my card and gone for the Full Traction 6 inch long arm setup with triangulated rear. But as a beginer was advised to ease into it and started with the moddifications that made the most sense to me. ie. cost effective (I thought) and practicle 4 inch lift, extended brake lines, belly up skid plate, slip yoke eliminator, double cardan prop, snorkel, winch, internal winch controls, saftey etc etc.........!!!
I did offroad the truck as stock a couple of times but it had issues which ironicaly until now the above purchases solved. Before the TJ I had and offroaded a CJ7 so in my opinion the TJ needed that extra something to get places the CJ7 could.

Theres kind of a lot to take in, in your replies so thats going to keep me busy for a while.

Thanks all
Clayt
 8)
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Warthog

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« Reply #39 on: May 02, 2007, 09:53:31 PM »

Quote from: "Asylum"
Cheers Peter and Mik

Mmmm triangulation does look expensive but I was hoping I could bribe Warthog into lending me his expertise at some point in the future.  8)


Oi Asylum..........Bog Off :?  I aint ya Jeep Fab Biatch :wink:

If ya goin as far as that! Scrap the axles first! Start new.

Something that i have noticed too is the stress placed on the shox's on the front as the axle is in its lower position. The bushes take care of it to some degree on the 4" But surely some mods to shox mounts or shox type would be of benefit too?
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isle of man

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« Reply #40 on: May 02, 2007, 10:20:20 PM »

the shocks on the front are no problem the rear is another story........




peter henry
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Asylum

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« Reply #41 on: May 03, 2007, 09:56:03 AM »

Quote from: "isle of man"
the shocks on the front are no problem the rear is another story........




peter henry


..........Oh go on, you may as well let me know the problem with them so I can plan for the future.............. :lol:
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isle of man

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« Reply #42 on: May 03, 2007, 10:36:19 AM »

found this photo of the rear axle upper mount from a previous wrangler that has broken free................



the problem with the rear shocks is the mounts (too low) you need to move them, have a look at my wrangler...........




i have since changed the shocks in the photo and have a chassis strengthening brace included also,  but as my wrangler is having some more work bieng carried out i can not give you the updated photo unfortunately.

just found this of my wrangler on full droop




peter henry
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Warthog

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« Reply #43 on: May 03, 2007, 05:13:10 PM »

I am begining to get that sinking feeling.......You know when you have bitten more of than you can chew :-k
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isle of man

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« Reply #44 on: May 03, 2007, 05:58:21 PM »

Quote from: "Warthog"
I am begining to get that sinking feeling.......You know when you have bitten more of than you can chew :-k


clayton himself did my suspension when i had my wrangler in america............
http://http://www.claytonoffroad.com/


you can now buy a kit to relocate the shock from.........
http://http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php



peter henry
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Asylum

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« Reply #45 on: May 03, 2007, 09:59:42 PM »

That looks cool. You have certainly done a lot to your truck Peter. I look forward to being able to take a look up close some day.

Oh. I have seen a fair few people mounting the rear shocks upside down, is there any benefit to doing this?

Thanks for all the info and help
Clayt
 8)
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isle of man

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« Reply #46 on: May 03, 2007, 10:05:49 PM »

you can mount the shocks either way, it depends on the valving and pressure you have them set at...............


peter henry
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Mik

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« Reply #47 on: May 03, 2007, 10:14:54 PM »

The length of the rear shocks is more of a later-on issue. The most immediate problem having lifted your TJ and correctly rotated your axle is that the rear shocks now foul the spring perches.
There are a number of solutions and having the shocks rod end down gains a little clearance for free. Lower mounting extensions are a common bolt-on answer or for those with fabbing ability you can just cut the original mount off and relocate it where the shock doesnt foul.
Its common to cut a section of perch away too.

Mik
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Warthog

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« Reply #48 on: May 04, 2007, 06:48:59 AM »

Well thats cleared up a few issue's, well really added a hole new set of todo really :wink:

Cheers

Mr Hog
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Asylum

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« Reply #49 on: May 08, 2007, 01:10:36 PM »

I have another related question for all ye brainy folk out there.

How many degrees of movement is required within an axle/chassis mount for an axle to articulate?

I have been looking at JJ's and Rose joints and have looked at the rubicon express/currie arms etc.

My budget at the moment wont stretch to a new long arm kit nor a set of arms from currie/rubicon express.

A rose joint has 22 degrees
A johnny Joint has 30 degrees

Does 1 rose joint on the arm one end and the original rubber mount the other end give the axles enough flex without stresses to cause any of the damage earlier mentioned or is 22 degrees not enough but a 30 degree JJ provides enough movement?

If 1 JJ works pefectly and 1 rose joint doesnt then a rose joint either end will surely do the job? Or to have the axle articulate without any stresses are 2 JJ's required?

Sorry if I have confused anybody

Thanks for the help
Clayt
 8)
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