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[wpo750]

Having spent an entire weekend attempting to loosen the T60 torx bolt that attaches the oil filter adapter to the block I have finally come to the end of my tether.  I’ve bent and snapped a spanners and a ¼ inch socket wrench in the process with the aid of a 3ft breaker bar but this T60 which is apparently fixed in with red loctite is refusing to play ball. 

Who has actually managed to remove theirs and can they please enlighten me as to how??? 

Also, I have a streaming leak coming from the top of the upper rad hose which attaches to the water pump (I honestly thought that was the ‘lower rad hose’ but apparently not).  I bought the wrong hose and not being able to source another over the weekend I attempted to seal up the split hose to narrow down the source of leak.  Just putting water back into the system it already started streaming from the top of the hose where it attaches to the water pump despite not being under pressure.  Visibility is very limited and I cannot work out whether the hose is so badly split that it can’t even retain coolant under no pressure or if it’s likely to be leaking from elsewhere.  Waterpump perhaps?  I can’t see the where from though…

I’m running out of patience and skin on my knuckles. 

[JamesH]

My T60 on the oil adapter came out using a 12" spanner on a ground down torx socket.

Upper rad hose is probably split. I just change mine because of a split in the same place - £20 off eBay.

Goes into the thermostat housing by the alternator. Maybe change the constant tension clamp for a jubilee clip just to check that isn't the fault.

[wpo750]

My T60 on the oil adapter came out using a 12" spanner on a ground down torx socket.

Upper rad hose is probably split. I just change mine because of a split in the same place - £20 off eBay.

Goes into the thermostat housing by the alternator. Maybe change the constant tension clamp for a jubilee clip just to check that isn't the fault.

The ground down torx socket sounds more effective than the torx bit I'm using with a 10mm hex.  It's frankly ridiculous we have to fashion tools to remove such a simple part! 

I've ordered both an upper and lower rad hose now as I think I got them the wrong way round but strangely neither of them seem to fit.  The one I've removed which I believe to be the lower rad hose has the rusty metal coil inside. The replacement that was sent is considerably shorter???

[Panic mechanic!]

the spring inside the one hose is to stop it collapsing under presssure most jeeps have them as the pump can pull so much water thru the hose actually collapses without it.

[wpo750]

the spring inside the one hose is to stop it collapsing under presssure most jeeps have them as the pump can pull so much water thru the hose actually collapses without it.

I heard that was its purpose along with turning your coolant into a worrying shade of muddy water as the spring slowly decomposes within. 

Neither of the hoses I have purchased contain the spring although I'm more concerned that neither of them appear to be the right shape or length.

This is the first one I bought
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230639013591&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_922

Then after further research I came to the conclusion that I had bought the wrong hose and that the hose that connects the to the water pump was the upper hose(?) so I purchased this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230645871329&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_922

This too doesn't appear to be the right shape or length in reality and I'm now stuck on what should be a very simple fix...

[Panic mechanic!]

I think those hoses may be for the LHD  not RHD model

[JamesH]

I bought a 1/2" inch socket with the T60 bit in it, cut the socket down in length a bit and ground flat edges on either side of the socket or a spanner (7/8" I think). this got it in the tight space and then I think I hammered on the end of the spanner a few times with a club hammer to break the seal. I don't remember it being silly hard to get off though.

[wpo750]

I think those hoses may be for the LHD  not RHD model

I'm wondering if this is case too.  He's managed to sell a few of these though, I wouldn't have thought there was much demand for LHD Jeeps over here 

I bought a 1/2" inch socket with the T60 bit in it, cut the socket down in length a bit and ground flat edges on either side of the socket or a spanner (7/8" I think). this got it in the tight space and then I think I hammered on the end of the spanner a few times with a club hammer to break the seal. I don't remember it being silly hard to get off though.

This sounds like a pretty good solution.  I've only just returned a socket version of the T60 as it wouldn't fit into the recess but I didn't think to modify it.  The T60 bit I have with the 10mm hex feels too lightweight for me to generate enough purchase.  I guess I could just butcher a 10mm socket from my set...  Then I'm attacking it with a hammer.   

[Panic mechanic!]

have you tried heating it up with a hot air gun to see if that helps?

[wpo750]

have you tried heating it up with a hot air gun to see if that helps?

I was actually going to try a heat method this weekend.  I read somewhere someone suggesting a soldering iron to be left on the bolt for a while to heat it right up and then applying pressure on it.  Sounds quite resourceful and I'm willing to give it a go.  The only problem is the Jeep got stranded a couple of streets away and it's dry so I can't even start it up...

I do have one of those portable jump starters equipped with an inverter though.  I wonder if it's got it in it to heat up a soldering iron?