Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: 300bhp/ton on February 03, 2012, 02:13:25 PM
-
I've got a UK spec N plate (95??) pre facelift 4.0 Cherokee.
A few days ago we started noticing a weird smell in it but couldn't trace what it was. On Wednesday while driving the headlights went out, pulled over switch them off via the switch waited 30 sec or so and they then worked. Smell remained though.
About 10 miles further down the road we pulled into where we were going, when the I used the indicator the headlights went out again and now won't work.
But here's the weird thing, both headlights are out, but only on dip. Side lights and mainbeam (flash and hold stalk) work. Some other weird things are happening too, I've turned the dash lights right down/off using the dimmer, however every now and again all the dash lights flash on and off at full brightness. I can here a relay clicking when this happens, of which I've found, but don't know what it is.
I can't find any fuses blown, although I have no idea what fuses do what as I don't have a diagram. I've tried Google and my Haynes manual but the Haynes manual doesn't have a proper fuse diagram. That said the picture of the fuse box in it and on the web don't seem to tally up with what I'm looking at or its location.
This is the fuse box under the dash, it's on the RIGHT hand side of the steering column near to the drivers door. The Haynes manual says it should be on the LEFT hand side and the picture it has is a different shape:
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q11/300bhpton/General%20Car%20Pics/DSC_9163Large.jpg)
This group of 4 relays was taped up above the throttle pedal, one of these relays is what clicks when the dash lights flash. I'm guessing this is maybe part of the Clifford alarm that is fitted to the car, but I don't know. The tape and connectors make it look non factory. I don't use the alarm or key fobs, so if this is the cause of the problems I'd happily remove it.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q11/300bhpton/General%20Car%20Pics/DSC_9165Large.jpg)
In this picture you can see the steering column running up the middle. Attached to it is part of the Clifford alarm, on the left is what looks like a box/rack of relays of some sort. I can't see any fuses in there and it isn't very accessible.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q11/300bhpton/General%20Car%20Pics/DSC_9161Large.jpg)
Lastly there's the fuse box under the bonnet, all fuses look fine in it too.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q11/300bhpton/General%20Car%20Pics/DSC_9166Large.jpg)
I'm really stumped on this :017: and would love some help figuring it out. I'm not sure if the dip beam wiring has fried itself and that's the problem or if its some weird affect of the alarm system. :icon_sad:
-
if your smelling it then my first guess would be a wire has failed/shorted, sort of makes sense the high beam flasher works as that is on a separate switch mounted to the column.
i would start tracing wires from the switch if fuses seem OK
-
headlight switch or stalk
-
headlight switch has fried itself.... common failing, will need replacing.
-
:imwitstupid:
Switch has died, the smell was it burning out.
-
trace the large red wire from the stalk down to the grey connector I think, I've had that melt :jpshakehead: and gave the same symptoms :003:
-
headlight switch has fried itself.... common failing, will need replacing.
Thanks for all the replies guys.
Where exactly is the headlight switch located? Is it part of the switch dial you pull out of the dash to turn the headlights on, or is there another switch in the wiring somewhere?
-
The switch on the dash that you pull out to turn the lights on and turn to dim the instrument lights.
-
the headlight switch is renowned for failure as for some reason it's not designed to take a high load. so if you uprate the bulbs from standard then it overloads the switch and causes the headlights to flash on/off. Replace the switch assembly if needed and modify the headlamp loom so that the lights are powered via a relay (go jeep website has a guide). By using relays it stops the headlamp current load being sent through the light switch and allows you to run more powerful bulbs, also there is a noticable difference on standard.
-
Cheers for the info, most helpful. Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend :icon_super:
-
Cheers for the info, most helpful. Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend :icon_super:
check a connectors first (ie, cheapest :003: )
& don't get toooooooooo cold :icon_biggrin:
-
Can anyone give me any pointers on removing the headlight switch?
I've got a Haynes manual which makes it sound so easy:
-Pull out stalk and push release button
-undo nut
-unplug and pull out
However the lower dash panel is in the way of getting to the release button and removing the lower dash panel is a major job as it has the fuse box and about million or so other things attached to it. That said I did manage to wriggle a hand in and remove the pull stalk, I've also undone the nut. And there was a single cable/plug on the back that I pulled off.
BUT - there are loads of cables on the top of the switch unit, how/where do you disconnect these? I can't even see the cables or switch, not even head standing in the footwell and reaching them by hand is more difficult still.
I've tried removing the front of the dash (wood trim bit around the pull knob end of the switch), but nothing seems to offer access.
-
this is what i did on my mk1 but i think the same approach can be done for a later model.
remove lower panel
remove radio
remove wood dash cover
remove clocks (might not need this but it gives more space to work with)
remove other switches around light switch (creates space)
there is next to no workable space around the switch itself
there is a small press to release button on the switch which releases the button and rod (pain to find but once found you feel daft)
unplug main connector
unplug another single cable
take off retaining nut
loose sking getting it out.
go away and nurse hands/cup of tea before refit.
the refit is typically haynes manual approach but there is no real excess cable to allow you ease in connecting the loom and single cable.
Be aware if the switch is new (not bakealite) then the chance of flashing headlights will still be there as the redesing only changed the construction material.
-
Just change the damn headlight fluid and be done with it
-
Could be tricky changing the headlight fluid, cus the XJ tends to leak through the waternator smoke seals. If this is
the case, while you have the waternator out, consider topping up the horn oil too. The whole assembly is next to the
battery acid circulation pump.
-
just make sure you wear the correct ppe
that headlight oil, if spilled contains lumens :icon_winkle:
-
but the lumiescant value of the amount of spilt lumens is not enough to get realy concerned about,
-
sorry i couldnt help myself - hope your headlights work. with or without fluid.