Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: wildwood on November 11, 2010, 08:02:21 PM
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I have spent the afternoon trying to get ahead............. :jpshakehead: rear suspension is on 6" rear stretch and all welding done pics to follow ......
Now front end...... removed steering box.... no prob... leaks a lot now and will be a hydro assist in its new life......
Removed steering box mount with welded bolts (captive ) in chassis.............. not............ :jpshakehead: bastards revolved and had to be cut off
Good job I'm cutting front of chassis off and will be welding my own captive nuts 6" further forward :icon_super:
I will post a bunch of pics for ya but may have to get them so they're big so you can see the angst and stress and stuff that's gone to get the rig this far :jpshakehead:
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dont do captive nuts mate - use some tubing that the mount bolts fit and sleeve all the way through the frame.
- its stronger
- normal nut and bolt is easier to fix if it gets stripped
and make sure you plate the mount with some 6mill atleast - your going to be putting alot more stress on that part of the frame with the bigger tires and axles
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Yer right and................ yer read my mind................ DOM tube has been ordered :icon_super:
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Hows it progressing mate? :greggmo:
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G'day mate......
Slowly..........
But.....
Rear end extended by 6" and springs hung with new mounts all painted and just needs axle under :jpshakehead:
Front all cut back to rad and new chassis forward to extend 6" in this direction as well
New front bumper as cross member as well as cross member under rad that I put in before I chopped the front :icon_biggrin:
Steering column extended 6"
New steering box mounts in new chassis pieces with DOM
Winch to drop in new gap and fairlead to be under front bumper....... Air can see rad now :icon_biggrin:
Been cleaning axles and stripping old brakes tonight..... got to buy spindle nut socket to dismantle front of Dana 60 .... Snap on £60
If I was near a Napa in Diddleyboing Idaho could get one for $29 bugger :icon_twisted:
Plan is to run Double J's wheels and tyres next year when he steps up to 42s..... Oh yes oh yes.......
You doing the Turkey Hunt???
Oh yeah I've also comp-cut the rear ..... wasn't going to but needs must for 39.5" tyres :icon_super:
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Firstly - I know nothing about YJ chassis, BUT:
with all that extra weight swinging about under the Jeep, will you need to reinforce the chassis, especially spring and link mount points??
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Yup your right. Already done........ got a raft of pics I'll throw up one day when I have a photobucket account or similar..... no point at the moment doesn't look interesting.
But to continue...... I'm surprised the factory mounts have stood the test of me and my antics........ the factory mounts are craaaap but they obviously worked .... to date.
All the stuff I've done is reinforced with 6mm plate and the mounts or spring pads as they call 'em and shackle mounts are also 6mm. All attachments to chassis are seam welded and also rosette welded.... So about double what the factory did......
Just been researching Hydro or full hydro .......again :icon_biggrin: on Pirate ...... not much difference in price....... less gubbins on full hydro
and yes I will be trailer bound on the road....... finally admitted to that......... because..... who would insure what I had built if I told all to insurers :icon_twisted:
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you need to find somewhere that scraps forklifts and get the steering from there.
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who would insure what I had built if I told all to insurers :icon_twisted:
you just need and engineers report to clarify build and a possible sva but with full hydro your stuffed, unless you can piggy back the std steering system and run both is parallel
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G'day mate......
Slowly..........
But.....
Rear end extended by 6" and springs hung with new mounts all painted and just needs axle under :jpshakehead:
Front all cut back to rad and new chassis forward to extend 6" in this direction as well
New front bumper as cross member as well as cross member under rad that I put in before I chopped the front :icon_biggrin:
Steering column extended 6"
New steering box mounts in new chassis pieces with DOM
Winch to drop in new gap and fairlead to be under front bumper....... Air can see rad now :icon_biggrin:
Been cleaning axles and stripping old brakes tonight..... got to buy spindle nut socket to dismantle front of Dana 60 .... Snap on £60
If I was near a Napa in Diddleyboing Idaho could get one for $29 bugger :icon_twisted:
Plan is to run Double J's wheels and tyres next year when he steps up to 42s..... Oh yes oh yes.......
You doing the Turkey Hunt???
Oh yeah I've also comp-cut the rear ..... wasn't going to but needs must for 39.5" tyres :icon_super:
Looking forward to seeing this mate, a lot of working going into it. I like it.
Yep will be at the turkey hunt, got a few issues with my truck but still going to be there with her.
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Right then got some stuff done over Christmas and axles under it last night so am a bit excited..... Rear drums on a 14 bolt weigh 40 lbs each and stick out (inboard) and look retarded..... so discs at back....now :icon_twisted:
Threw the H2 rims and 35s under it so I can take transfer case out without fear of a squishing :jpshakehead:
Was going to hold off till all pics can be put up large but here's a taster ......plenty of room for 40's and yes it's wide 86" :icon_super:[attachment=1][attachment=2]
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Bugger same shot twice :wsmile:
try again :jpshakehead:[attachment=1]
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Sooooo when are you gonna chop those cart springs off.... :098: :003:
Looking good :icon_super:
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hmmm
jsut a wee gap to fill now wing springy and dampy stuff
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Dampy stuff is waiting to go on............
Steery stuff coming from US............soon :icon_super:
Had second thoughts at back and now thinking 4 linky very loooong arm+ air shocks......... all parts for attachment from Dan at Ruffstuff for $700
but next year .......... gonna run with the Ben Hurr Springs to see how crap it is....or not. Might even have to run the 4.10s and open diffs this coming year cos of fluff factor.......... that'll be the tyres and trailer that are the crippler :jpshakehead:
just this minute come in from stripping the drums off the 14 bolt...feck they must weigh 50 lbs a piece....... gotta buy discs now :icon_twisted:
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i like leaves i know that makes me a Luddite but i care not
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I agree Bubba, much simpler and far easier to upgrade, they cant fall out and if one bit snaps it keeps on working, you just need to make sure you know a good Orthopaedic surgeon. :icon_biggrin:
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this thread is relevent to my intrests :icon_super:
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i totally agree
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Are you not going to do that reverse banana thingy on the spring mount?
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Got reverse banana on the rear so that the shackle will clear frame ...... as mounts are out the back now.
Front had to be 'not shackle reversed' as I am extended by 6 inches........ basically I would have to have a solid vertical drop of 5 "
off the front to mount the spring and then very short shackles at the rear......... seen it done on "Pirate" doesn't work ....or sometimes springs are like a ski jumper in angle...........
Anal retention rules......I measured it all when on the wheels and front caster angle is 5 degrees... apparently the prefered angle for a Dana 60....
but..weight of winch might feck that a bit tho :icon_twisted:
Unashamedly I have copied from the guys in the US that made it work..... lots of stuff you look at and think nah.... never work....and then you scoot forward to the end of their post and yep....you know you were right......... Has taken a summer of anoraking to sort the stuff that works from the nutters that bodge :icon_twisted:
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And yes I have signed up to Flikr or whatever to get big pics here..........just got to learn how to do it.......
Bur back to spannering.............
Some days you have faith in the human race.....
I had to call these guys as their on site paypal system was not working
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-60-Crossover-Arm-(FREE-SHIPPING)/3163/3168/3462/3578 (http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-60-Crossover-Arm-(FREE-SHIPPING)/3163/3168/3462/3578)
Anyway conversation goes..... doing disc conversion on 14 bolt..... need calipers and rotors and bits having trouble with Autozone they dont do loaded calipers can't sort parts nos at this distance.......
Answer no prob I can supply all those at Autozone prices.... and I know the company you got your caliper mounts from he's a mate....
So calipers at $60 and rotors at $39.99 each and lots of fittings banjo bolts etc........ job done
Also sorted a prob I had with my terraflex system now 'resting' in the garage :icon_twisted: I never got full lock..... no bugger knew why....
Until I ordered a pitman arm from these guys for the Dana 60 and they said go with the ZJ tapered for bottom up chevy double pivot that way you'll get full lock :icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin: :icon_super:
So there you go...... I was wrist slashingly depressed after the New Year (S.A.D. as usual) but having chainsawed another 50 foot silver birch and started again on the 1 ton ........ I'm feeling better :icon_super: :icon_biggrin:
Got the drums and gubbins off at last on the 14 bolt and I know I said they were heavy........ and I wont bore you again ....after this.....but I weighed them............
You ready............... 70 lbs PER SIDE........... now that's heavy shit
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Its like half english half chinese to me
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Went out with a girl like that once............. :icon_winkle: :xxx_knockinboots: FNARRR :icon_super:
But you don't wan to know about that............... :icon_biggrin:
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Yes we do................. and with pictures :003: :003: :003:
:greggmo:
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Like many, been following this hippy saga with interest to see another project progress, good find on the new supplier Jez, bet you are well chuffed to see a big chunk of light :icon_winkle:
Now where's them bloody pics..... & of the Jeep too :003:
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sounds like your putting on a bit of weigh over the christmas holidays.
your doing a build thread which requires more pictures than words
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Load of pics comin
just need to learn to drive Flickr :jpshakehead:
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Guttechtomy :hysterical:
Spent the weekend pulling transfercases and shit.............. looks like I'll be able to run a flat skid plate now I've got more driveshaft length to play with :icon_twisted:
Might have to dice and slice the floor but hey 'metal glue' will sort that..........
BIG Question.....................
I could just do a flat skid in 6mm plate................ simple but heavy as shit....................
or do the same and cut 4 inch holes make it look like a swiss cheese...type of thing....
Or make a frame work from square section and bolt on 6mm ally sheet.................
Build it from unobtainium................
knit one in macrami?? :017:
Anyone got any ideas or done sonething similar.....
I'm off for a merlot :icon_biggrin:
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cant remember where but saw a belly skid that was a reinforce steel plate (had inverted angle welded inside) and skinned with some sort of nylon or PTFE sheet for low friction
my only worry would be a steel sheet with holes will be a bit grippy
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Ah yeah............. the PTFE sheet................ apparently like chopping board material :icon_biggrin:that'll work..................just need to find a supplier now....
cheers
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Have a look see at....
http://www.jeep-club.at/Umbauten/teraflex-umbau-pdfs/neu/BUT_install.pdf (http://www.jeep-club.at/Umbauten/teraflex-umbau-pdfs/neu/BUT_install.pdf)
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/33engineering_tcase_skid/index.asp (http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/33engineering_tcase_skid/index.asp)
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=SKP-8403 (http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=SKP-8403)
http://www.rokmen.com/tj_products/skid_plates/up_armor_skids/up_armor_skids.html (http://www.rokmen.com/tj_products/skid_plates/up_armor_skids/up_armor_skids.html)
http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mods/TJLJmods/Medic_tummytuck/Medic_tranny.htm (http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mods/TJLJmods/Medic_tummytuck/Medic_tranny.htm)
That will keep you quiet this night - have also seen the yanks with some sort of Heath Robertson ALLOY and chopping board jobbies!!!!
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There you go heath thingy and chopping boards http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/HDPE-2581-c (http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/HDPE-2581-c) gotta love it :icon_jook:
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Happy to help!!!!!
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Check out the price of this stuff, never knew plastic could be so expensive. http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/PEEK_-2583-c (http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/PEEK_-2583-c)
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the reason PEEK is expensive as it aimed at the aviation/aerospace market
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Pretty sure this is the material? There's a few threads on Pirate that mention it.
http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/UHMWPE_-2611-c (http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/UHMWPE_-2611-c)
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Thanks.............. that's less embarrassing than having chopin' boards on ya gut :hysterical:
Got the Dana 300 flip over out and cleaned for you to install in Asylum's rig :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
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Anyone got any ideas or done sonething similar.....
Yup :icon_super:
We built this (http://www.j33p.org/_club/rides_view.cfm?ride_id=94&start=1&order=1&filter_by_make_id=0&filter_by_model_id=0&filter_by_last_name_chr=R) (scroll for pics) for Si Redmond's coilovered YJ. Flat belly (the Jeep, not Si) and no cutting of the floor necessary even with the motor lifted 1" and 102" WB.
Fabbed it from 1 1/2" tube and 6mm plate
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14 Bolt argggghhhhhhh bollix........ :ace:
Tried to have a few hours of detroit fitting to the 14 bolt....... tis easy cos I've read the 14 bolt bible and trawled Pirate....bollix...
I got the carrier out and ring gear off and then found mine were also held on by 3 big eff off cross head screws.........now I then got to do some interweb research and as we all know a detroit has 4 prongs like this
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After cursing swearing and stuff I got logical and to cut a long story and all afternoon short mine has 3 prongs and is screwed together so it dont fly apart.....cos it has got a Gov-lock....yep they put locking devices in them...... they are hated by the septics and probably wont last long with 40's but its a locking device...I now remember a conversation with the owner of the doner truck who said it would pull itself loaded and a heavily loaded trailer across a muddy field in 2 wheel drive............ that'll be why then.......
So my nice new detroit will have to wait till I regear from 4.10 to 5.38..with new carrier, cos now we are going to have to re-set and sort all the backlash and shit ....so only want to do that once with the front as well.
In the mean time till I can get big pics up and bore you with 100 shots of detailed stuff here is my new rear end with spendy LEDs and comp-cut rear with 2.5mm armour...... big sheet for the rear cost me £34 result.........also decided to ditch rear door and new tailgate held on by 4 fasteners and I can still get my paw in to operate winch controls of hydraulic.............more later
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What is your projected tyre size - or should that be tire size?
Just curious!!!!
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There is plans for havin' Double Js H1 rims and 39.5s Boggers..............
or if that goes tits up keep the H2 rims 17" x 8 ish and go Irok 42s
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Hmmmm that's on the limit of a 14bolt (I have this on the buggy) great combination by the way.
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Think we're more gentle on the skinny pedal over here..............hear what your saying tho. I will worry about the gov lock scenario till its out and detroit lockered........... da boys on pirate seem to get away with 44s then............
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I have as you have seen 44" boggers on the Buggy but they are short size the 42" Irok are the same sidexside!!!
Keep the vision....
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Thanx...I need encouragement after todays fiasco...........I did get to tit around with the trolley jack and suspension.......fully compressed and there's room for the Iroks........ so maybe just maybe..............but 39.5s in a bogger flavour might be better for UK type terrain tho :icon_twisted:
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its good to see some pics of it,very impressive have a pat on the back!
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A nice lady from UPS dropped of 2 very large boxes this afternoon.................
Dana 60 single axle hubs............... wheeeee.............. also 3/8 thick steel dana 60 diffcover....mmmnnn nice :icon_biggrin:
So I fitted them tonight and all of a sudden the WMS of the front has shrunk from 77" to 69"
That means in real terms that I have 2.5" of rubber sticking out from under my 7" arches at the front and half an inch at the back.(per side)
Took some pics but you'll have to wait to tomoz.
GC passed its MOT with advisory of top and bottom ball joints on nearside........... that is an arseache of a job so that will have to wait till I can borrow the correct balljoint press and tools........
Not such a bad day in all :icon_twisted:
Oh yeah anyone want some dually front hubs and 14bolt drums............. no?....... thought not :jpshakehead:
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Right then.....Here's a few pics.
This one shows maaaaaasive difference between dually front and normal front
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Will alter WMS by a tadge :icon_twisted:
And this weighs about 20lbs and is my new 3/8" thick Dana 60 Diff cover
Will have welded bracket that supports full hydro ram for steering so has to be tough.
So before anyone asks it ............Why am I not going for the flat table top to the axle and double ended ram?
Believe me I wanted to..........but with axle moved forward 6.5" and minimum lift that would put the ram on a colision
course with the rad :jpshakehead:
Any negatives about a single ended ram then...............?
Well they don't look as bling, and design wise you don't get that nicely centred lots of stuff going on down there look.
In operational terms same power but you will not get same amount of turns left to right as with double ended system.
Think I can live with that :icon_twisted:
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Ad here's the proof of the pudding............. Only got a stick out of 2.5" now..........
The tyres are 12.5 wide and are on H2 wheels that have a 5.25" or similar backspace so that has helped over the normal 4" backspace that wheels normally have.
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If you believe the Pirate boys the hub will now be subject to a good trashing on the rocks cos it sticks out. But only by 1/2" which is why some run solid hubs to do away with that 1/2"......
So once upon a time I was going to run H1 wheels with the 7" backspace on the front and the old hubs.......... would have made things wider by 2".no biggy.........
But the rear is also a dually axle and has 64" backspace .......only 2" more per side than a YJ or TJ with the H2 wheels on it at the moment only the wall of the tyre sticks beyond the 7" wheelarch.....
The H1 rim with 7" backspace would not fit here.
Would mean new centres for only the rear two H1 wheels to bring offset to minimum which is 3.5" and then I would still need spacers to get the thing looking vaguely sensible......
So sadly big fat no to H1s.............Got to rehub.............done.......... and stick with H2s
Tyres are going to be Irocks 39.5 x13.50x17
I was thinking 42 x14 x 17 cos there's room
But the cost difference in dollars is this 42s are $520.94 and the 39.5s are $381.79
The 39.5s are and accurate measurement and the 42s come up at 41.5....so for the price diff I'm shopping cheap :jpshakehead:
other weird thing the 39.5s have more ply in the tread and walls and can support more weight...... so tougher??
I really don't know but its cost for me.
I'm off to sell another organ to get near finishing this. :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
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have you sunk a lot of cash ?
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Hubs were $250 per side so not bad and although I shouldn't do the Maths like this... the sale of my winch funded the diff cover and all shipping and duty and a bit more.
Not too bad so far
Expensive bit is just about to start........................
Full hydro gonna be $1200
Tires or even tyres will be £1700 delivered to the door
Exhaust redo £90 I am doing it again since I sold the winch...............can think of better route.
And then there's a trailer..............................arggghhhh............ nor maybe just hire one for what will be the last few events of this year?
Will probably spent about £5k or £6k when trailers bought...................
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you dont actively keep a cost when building these or at least tell someone who will remember.
same applies to racing, i stopped counting at 4k per yr and with not alot to show for it at the end of the season apart from a big smile
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Your right...........everytime I think about the bottom line I slow up........... to let funds accrue......... as if :jpshakehead:
But apart from tyres and exhaust and steering I'm there.........not quite sure where 'there' is but close...........
And news as of today a mate with a number of trailers has given the OK to use his trailer for transporting around.......
So depending on how you price trailers I am as we speak that much less lacking in the folding.
So thanks my mate Harvey.........a gentleman and scholar :icon_super:
Also as of today ........brake pipes fittings and brake flaring tool and some affordable shocks from Llama (Hydros)
we'll see :017: Oh and exhaust ordered.................
Next week when credit card recycles....... PSC steering........ ouch.
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Budgets and projects never have the same path.
Try not to see new ideas and BIGGER options that you think you need - this is how you become a sucker to the cause!!!
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i know we dont keep actual costs tabbed up evan on my budget but we all have a rough idea of how scared or stupid we have been
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i know we dont keep actual costs tabbed up evan on my budget but we all have a rough idea of how scared or stupid we have been
both :010:
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I'm already thinking way above my self employed paygrade..........
Found myself talking to a mate today and it went :
bigger tyres
4 link the rear
3 link the front
SBC 383 or if poss 406.....minimum 400 bhp and 460+ft/lbs......
Yeah right........... :jpshakehead:
The trailer conundrum has really helped........so seeing as its 6 weeks to get the tyres in........ July sometime.....
Thats a 9 month build.......... Yup Chip Foose could do it faster......
But its me in slow-mo and I drink more tea than TT supremo and narrow boat builder Guy Martin.
'Alright boss, OK chief' etc etc
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at the end of the day it's at the point you want with what you need at the time. the downside is after doing all this you then look at more ways to improve, but then your on the route of a specific buggy (sounds familiar), but then the point at being stuck is more interesting and when something gives way, well i think thats a case or worry about it when it happens.
nice to see the build is progressing, not interested in the bolt on portals ????
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Potals ...................mmmnnnn
nah
Would ruin my scrapyard reputation for the bolt on 1 tons :ace:
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So over the weekend I bent some brake tube and flared some flares and then after practicing on the offcuts did it for real......... needed the dry run been a year since I did brake tube flares.........
Welded up some holes in the floor and bent some twin sticks and made a raised area with hole for them.
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Then stood around and drank tea and decided I didn't like my glove box or the solenoids on the front of the 8274
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SO then it was order up some monster battery cable ..........again.
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Removing the glove box should be easy........... but the 2 bolt/screw holes either side were bollixed so jig saw and disc cutter and its now a kit of parts.......... :jump_125:
Face shield steamed up and as I lifted it with disc cutter going a piece of hot plastic hit me in the boat....... just below eye..... very very lucky....... wont do that again :jpshakehead:
Any way this is what followed.
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I now have the solenoids in the dry.......... I know I could have got a spendy solenoid but I kinda like these cheap
old- school things.
The battery cable I used was 50mm square stuff for pos power feed and 40mm squ for the 3 wires to solenoids....
Not a cheap idea .....as I now find out but tis done and I've been thinking of doing it for ages.
The wander lead I have (previous owner) is about 20 feet long so that's OK............
The only area of OCD is that I now have the Carling switches on the dash top for winch and wander lead connection both in cab..... :jpshakehead:
Next step is a Bowmotor to replace very old Warn 2.5 HP original
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looking good but dusty
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Today welded up axle perches and attached traction bar that I made and other stuff you can see. Bolts yet to be tightened etc.
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Started to bleed brakes and no leaks so far :icon_biggrin:
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This ones for Bulldog
Left is Dana 60 diff cover and right is Dana 30 Diff cover
Now you know why 30's go bang :icon_twisted:
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oooooooooooooooow!!!
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what's this then a case of mines bigger than yours :icon_biggrin:
(corrected, wireless keyboards can be a problem)
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what's this then a cse of mines bigger than yours :icon_biggrin:
Lookin at that, it is :hysterical:
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Been sorting the Full hydro steering this wet weekend and this afternoon........... pics don't really show the gazzilion minutes of measuring and fabricating brackets and making hoses and getting that 1 important hose (the gravity feed from res to pump right..... would have liked more slope but short of mounting in hole thro hood :jpshakehead:) anyway here's some pics with no wing on ........... :icon_super:
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Big shiney cooler takes a quart....... (nearly a litre?) so should stay cool ......
Just need to source some Royal Purple steering fluid (done) it doesn't like ATF apparently..... :jpshakehead:
And here's one to laugh at if you swap the lines to the ram......... on yer mates not mine! You'll get left steer when you turn right and vice versa........ :hysterical:
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what leccy fan are you running there? I have just bought a spal sucker, but i see you have a blower, any good? or not tried it yet?
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Ah the fan? It was a (just found the invoice) an e-bay number.....from Toyosports Ltd in Brum B11 2AQ
tis a 16" push pull universal cost £27 + delivery
The cooling with Milemarker in front of grill was marginal up the A1 and stuff so had to keep at 65 max no prob really.
Then I stuck the 8274 up there and you couldn't see the grill :jpshakehead: Liked to run too hot at 55 so got the pusher as an aux and keeps it ok at motorway speeds.........
Never runs hot off road whatever I do.......... so a bit redundant now as I'm gonna be trailer only.but I guess its insurance if it all gets clogged with cack
Apparently they suck better than blow.....(fans that is :icon_biggrin:) and a Spal moves monster CFM so you should be sorted....
Only other good one is a Ford Taurus (USA) that has 2 speeds and the 2nd speed sucks in small animals..... they can get em cheap from the wreckers..........
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ford taurus = mondeo in the uk
look for the st220 mk2 v6 cooling fans.
the st200 2.5ltr as a second option
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The battery cable I used was 50mm square stuff for pos power feed and 40mm squ for the 3 wires to solenoids....
Shame i didnt know,could have done you a good deal on some 95mm............
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Any update???
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probably got carried away on a new idea
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or just carried away
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Yup I'm back as of Thursday............been on the bike to Portugal and Spain............
Had to move the steering cooler it was in the way of the winch motor :jpshakehead: which at the time was not attached to the winch.
Winch now getting a Bowmotor now on order
BUT.............. :jump_125:
Feckin tyres..............some eu bollocks about dirty oil and importing tyres........ now I cant get the IROK 39.5 x 13.50 x 17 s from Devon 4x4
but on the shelf already in this country
they have the same flavour as 20's........... too big
or as 15's.......... too small for clearing brakes......
or biggest they can give me is cooper stt at a 37" also too small
shit bollocks and corruption
Any ideas anyone got some 17" rim monsters????
Should have bought some ages ago but I lack a crystal ball and at the time the funds :100:
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IOM shud be ya dood there, dont matter what tyre I have mused on he seems to have a stash in his tyre tardis
but what is this EU bollox tho? v concernin
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also keep an eye on the Leviathan coz Norm may have to break the J20 and that has 38" flavour
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You can still bring tyres from America (should that be tires!!!) personally you just can't do this on a commercial basis - it's no problem relax.
Oh and I have some 90% good 17x42" Iroks kicking about on rock-a-thon beadlock alloys - just to confirm the existence of my tyre stash!!!
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So I could ship em in for myself???
Thing is at 80-100 lbs a corner could get spendy........ are your rock-a-thons 8 lug (I am thinking not) and are the 42" boggers for sale and am I right in thinking they come up smaller than posted size?
Still trying to contact Double J he once offered me his 39.5 boggers on the H1 rims........ I would have to recentre them with imported new centres tho.
Just trying to get done so I can go wheeling again.......... got serious withdrawal.......
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Indeed you can bring them in yourself - I'm holding on to my tyre selection right now "that is" till something new and more extreme becomes available.
If you do bring a set of tyres over we could combine as I want 20" staz wheels for the Buggy.
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W07 could get some spinners :003:
and I can get some mock beadlocks :lol_hitting:
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and I can get some mock beadlocks :lol_hitting:
is this fashionitus and looks rather than their intended use ?
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of course Dave, I have no idea what they do other than JP mag tellin me idiots shouldnt be allowed to buy them :003:
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i got fake beadlocks on my red truck, they do look cool
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there ya go :icon_super:
proper beadlocks seem hard work tho
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there ya go :icon_super:
proper beadlocks seem hard work tho
and not road legal :icon_winkle:
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they heard about me then :lol_hitting:
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I am in mental torment :017:
Here's the conundrum:
Put 37s that are in the UK and sensible fluff on the 1 ton and spend the rest of my life explaining why they're too small blah blah you get the picture.
Or sell an organ and get the Irok 39.5s in and have done with it for at least 5 years..........or until IOM relinquishes his 42s.
Worded like that I think I've just answered my own question :jpshakehead: :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
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W07 could get some spinners :003:
and I can get some mock beadlocks :lol_hitting:
:icon_twisted:
Actually, I want a set of beadlocks myself next. Of course they're not legal over here...discuss.. :003: :popcorn:
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have you looked on u.s ebay?
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:icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super: :icon_super:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/Tenbulls/money-for-kidney-1.jpg)
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or some recentered telehandler wheels and tyres, most telehandlers have 42s
thats what ill be looking at when my boggers wear out (hopefully not anytime soon!)
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Thanks Warthog and King CJ.......
Yes its Iroks all the way ......... got a deal of 15% off the Iroks and 20% off the shipping.......so at least I'll be at CF with one functioning major organ :jpshakehead:
Looked at US ebay and I could have bid on some H1 rims and got them for $75 but then there's the shipping :icon_sad:
and also the need for 16.5 tyres. Feck me boggers are heavy....... 113lbs and Iroks at 84lbs....... that's 116lbs extra in tyres alone before you factor in the weight of H1 rims :icon_twisted:
So tomorrow........... I buy........... could do it now.... but ...........my head is full of Merlot....... :jpshakehead:
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This is from JP mag not my opinion........but they say appliance or agricultural tyres will have monster stiff side walls and big weight penalties and even with valve stems pulled will not react in the way we expect of an offroad tyre.....
but maybe on the King CJ rig................. :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
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I have purchased a set of 47" Russian Army tyres to try as thinking out of the box option - this is why I need the 20" staz wheels - we are all looking for different options with the impending EU tyre regulation!!!
Buy the Boggers in my opinion the best tyre for extreme events.
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i love my boggers, this is my third set. but they are now a fortune, im looking at about £600 a corner now so when they a done im going for ags. we thought the sidewalls would be stupid stiff but they arnt really any worse than boggers, especially if you buy some second hand that have had a heavy loader flexing them and wearing them in! we have found that they work quite well in rocks too which is where we thought they would be useless. mud they work as expected, selfclean well but but if you do come to a spinning halt you will soon dig 4 holes and be on your belly lol!
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Nice one King CJ.......... Just done the deal on the boggers in a 39.5 flavour............. but when we are old and grey and I've ragged em to slicks............ I'll be stepping up to some second hand ags..........in a bigger flavour :icon_twisted:
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mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm boggers!
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So you think I've been sunbathing since I came back..........no no no :jpshakehead:
Had a mad flurry og exhaust and rad bottle remount and fender cutting to fit and then winch sinking and cooler remounting to clear winch motor........cos I'm stoopid and put it in the way :jpshakehead:
Here's some pics to prove......... rad overflow bottle not very visible as its now black......looked too much like a Jepp collostemy bag :icon_twisted:
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2] cut down rear panel to allow hands in and stop ropes shackles falling out.....
[attachment=3]
[attachment=4]
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And then there the exhaust that I had to redo cos the original had rear winch in way..........
Now it is straight pipe back to rear so no exhaust under my butt heating up the cab........ :icon_super: rock solid so wont bang and rattle...........
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
[attachment=3]
So battery on charge.............. unused since sept post CF...... so might be tears here :icon_sad:
Tires :icon_biggrin: from the US of A is comin in next 10 days.......... and then lets see if the ignition key will start the thing :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
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that looks very nice mate, cant wait to see it with its new boots!
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that looks very nice mate, cant wait to see it with its new boots!
:iagree: :icon_super:
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Fitted props last night............. :jpshakehead:issues with straps and UJ on rear.......has to be a combo 1310 1350. :icon_twisted:
All sorted this PM .......just finished........all propped up...........
Only the efffin' battery has 7.95 volts........so got to get new one........
And monster good (allegedly) Royal Purple Power steering fluid as reccomended by PSC.......... well none in the UK and got reimbursed today.........so what do you you Full hydro guys use?????????????????????
Been on Pirate and the rural boys use Amsol light hydraulic fluid (clear)
Seeing as most farm equipment is full hydro there must be an option??????? Anyone???????
I do live out in the fens so plenty of Agric suppliers so might pay a visit tomoz at lunchtime,
Apart from that the Iroks land at mine Mon/Tues............ :icon_biggrin:
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hydo fluid like whats in forkfifts hydro drive axles etc.. apollo 46 is one company name for it, dont think its that important, ive got atf in mine at the moment. what is important is bleeding the air out of the system and having a good head of fluid, res has to be mounted well above the pump or you will get air in the system and bugger the pump.
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Thanks was waiting for your 2 cents ........cos I remember topping yours up with clear stuff from a 5 litre container...agric stylee :icon_super:
Done some anorak research and Redline power steering came up OK for Porsches etc and some stuff that seemed agric....
So e-mail to PSC and they said yup good stuff go ahead........... only prob £15 a liter........... just hope I got no leaks :jpshakehead:
Slowly getting there............. just waiting for X Eng to answer their phone so I can score a cheapish 1000 CCA battery!
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ATF here...
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take your time to bleed the system as it's not done in 5 mins. SLightly different but i used to test power steering pumps for a major car maker an we spent 10 boring minutes bleeding the system of air before testing slowly going from lock to lock. The reservoir as said has to be above the pump height.
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Thanks guys.. Yeah the bleeding of system is a 2 page thing from PSC.......... and it will take a long time...... and then switch engine on and take even more time.....
They also sent how and where to mount res and hose runs..........
I've got res mounted so lid almost touches underside of hood..... and outlet at bottom is 1.5 inches above pump and 2 " from pump so should be ok gravity and short run etc............ we'll see :icon_twisted:
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New Booties for the ZJ???
[attachment=1]
:hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:
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Anyway they're here so got to get them on the rims now :icon_super: :icon_super:
[attachment=1]
And some tread :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
[attachment=2]
Looks like I built the truck to fit 'em........ wonders will never cease.......... :icon_super: :icon_super:
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This plan of yours is really comming together Jez :icon_super: :icon_super:
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any good?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1973-CADILLAC-COUPE-DEVILLE-7-7-BIG-BLOCK-V8-472-CI-/260819060079?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3cba07056f#ht_500wt_1202 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1973-CADILLAC-COUPE-DEVILLE-7-7-BIG-BLOCK-V8-472-CI-/260819060079?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3cba07056f#ht_500wt_1202)
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better?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-3-litre-423-ci-v8-engine-plus-gearbox-1965-caddy-/280711657458?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item415bb7f7f2#ht_768wt_1185 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-3-litre-423-ci-v8-engine-plus-gearbox-1965-caddy-/280711657458?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item415bb7f7f2#ht_768wt_1185)
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Bugger........... you only gone and got me to put those in my watch list................... :icon_twisted:
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So the missus went to a wedding on Sat so I had a weekend thrash fest till 9 or 10 at night......
Lunchtime today started her up.......... she lives and breathes and all gears work.......LPG still works :icon_twisted:
Steering is a dream.......... brakes are shite and I still have to bleed them some...or a lot more..... will lock the rears but pedal goes down.....a lot :jpshakehead:
Anyway here's some pics......... it don't look that big in the shots :010: but the front wing/fender top is in middle of my chest and rock rails come to my hip bone......... and I'm 6' 2' in my working boots.........
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
[attachment=3]
[attachment=4]
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I've still got to rebuild the winch and stuff but fluff funds are low......... ex H2 tyres are on the bay now to finance the winch motor :icon_twisted:
[attachment=1]
bit of steering...........and I did have pipes wrong way round......left is right....very bloody funny.......not :icon_biggrin: :jpshakehead:
[attachment=2]
no winch there for a while now :017:
[attachment=3]
Dana 300 Klune levers and CJ speedo.......needs some bedliner in here.
[attachment=4]
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Final shots.........
[attachment=1]
front tyres don't stick out too far ......due to H2 rims of 51/2 backspace
[attachment=2]
rears are legal............ WMS at rear is 64" and at front is 69.5".......... so if front goes thro gap.......blah blah......
final shot........ for the moment.....
[attachment=3]
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looks sweet :greggmo:
and good work in nearin completion
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you deserve serious kudos for that build m8, real sweet truck, looks like it can but without rubbing your nose in it
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You rock :icon_super: :icon_super:
Nice :clap: :clap: :PDT_Armataz_01_37:
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if it wasn't for the hydro it would be mot time.
wonder if flux would quote for road use :icon_biggrin:
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Looks really :greggmo:
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At first glance looking at the first set of pics I thought I ended up in mini-monsters :hysterical:
Took a while before I realized it was a real beastie. Cool :icon_super:
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that is super you just need a manly tow rig now
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And so the chest pumping begins!!!!
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Norm's J20 wouda worked
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Damn it!
Im liking this too much........
If only it was a Diesel :003:
Are you thinking, ready for Kirton Bank Holiday?
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Yup Kirton looks OK........ just got to check on trailer availability and hopefully have winch Bowmotored by then :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
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far too pretty! needs a couple of rolls and arguments with trees then it will be proper :peekaboo:
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i think it needs a articulation test at a morrisons carpark
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A Prius under at least 3 wheels :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:
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wow, very nice can't wait to see it at CF! :icon_super:
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you wont be the only one
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Right then........ too hot to polish an oak table .Keep sweating into it and marking the wood with salt stains........ :jpshakehead: so I did some welding :hysterical: on some iron gates......... also shouted at a useless asian gent who sold us a crap ironing board on e-bay......... new and paypal protected so that fecker made of spagetti is going back....
So what do you do when your new to you XP motor (thanks Willo) and the motor bolts arrive from Mr G.Pin.......
put the fecker on I think.......
Naturally I dont make life easy for myself....why do that??????
So winch is sunk below bumper and hard back against grill shell paper thick away........
So lifting it in hurt back......... now walking like Mick Mars from Motley Crue.......
XP has cap on motor so had to 'relieve grill with disc cutter :icon_super:....... winch and mount out and in again....twice....
Then wouldn't spool in did all lecky tests motor fine connections not..my bad..dumb hippy :jpshakehead:
Works like a dream now .pulled Jeep across drive at walking pace so that itself is impressive......
So here's some pix........ the brass lever thing on bottom left is my 'panic off' for me or winch man if all turns to poo....... some have em inside some have both..... we'll see .......
The winch mount has webs welded from 6mm plate both sides and is not just 2 horizontal pieces extending the mount.... all bolt holes thro chassis are lined with dom..... tried to over engineer wherever pos....... only a shakedown will tell.
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
[attachment=4]
[attachment=3]
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and here's 2 more
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
Just need to use it now......... got a trailer for Kirton...... Aug Bank Holiday........... anyone going??
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Then wouldn't spool in did all lecky tests motor fine connections not..my bad..dumb hippy :jpshakehead:
Works like a dream now .pulled Jeep across drive at walking pace so that itself is impressive......
had me going at that point!
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i hope to be at kirton aug weekend mate might have to work but i,ll be down on an evening for sure. i,ve got just the place to try that winch and those tires and your lockers and.......etc hehe
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:100: :100: :steeringwheel: :100:
No locker on front and only gov-loc in rear.......... :jump_125:
Need a new carrier in rear for detroit that's sitting patiently on workshop floor :jpshakehead:
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gov bomb eh, i had one in the gmc, worked very well, got one in the chev its broken (wasnt me)
if it all goes wrong ive got my pto winch rigged up now and to say im impressed with it is an understament :icon_super:
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Shakedown at Kirton........
[attachment=1]
Spent 2 days with King CJ and the crew at Kirton................. with the 1 ton.........
Testing all the bits :icon_biggrin:
Well my weldings up to snuff.......... nothing has cracked off .yet.......... that was my biggest concern!
[attachment=2]
Brakes have improved and are now great.......you just have to push pedal half down to fill those 'big fecker 1 ton calipers' .... it'll hold on the steepest of slopes........... and for the first time in its life it has a hand brake that works after 2 min in the mud.......in fact holds on any slope............ might now be able to get out on more than just the flat :icon_twisted:
Tyres are the bollix and almost make up for no lockers............. only tyres in air cause stoppage...so lockers this
winter.
The bad bits.......................
Didn't tighten the clamp for exhaust downpipe.........so it blew off...........13mm wrench and a welding glove to hold and now cured........
Sweak from tranfer case as I have it too close to floor :jpshakehead: disc cutter and metal glue again this winter :icon_twisted:
Oil loss from front diff............. well it would help if cap headed screws were more than hand tight :jpshakehead:
cos the diff cover is getting a ragging from the hyro ram :icon_twisted: Sorted now lost a half cup of oil so not too bad.....
Thats it apart from squeaky suspension again forgot to lube the shackle zerks :icon_twisted:
Oh and the full hydro steering is a dream........... went most places I usually go at Kirton and got severley pretzel tied up in the steering and suspension and the full hydro just turned the wheels allowing super tight turning to get out......lovely......
[attachment=3]
Monster clean up on Holiday Monday so next stop CF :icon_super:
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Congrats mate, hell of a build so u must be made up it all works :038:
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love it, very jealous, time to find some D60's for mine........
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well Norm has a rear
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And there was that geezer in Leics that I went to see cos he had a Ford 60......... turned out to be a Dodge 3/4 ton with Dana 60 photographed upside down......... still it was a Dana 60 and with Norms rear there's your pair....both 8 lugs stud pattern as well............. go for it....Willo :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
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And there was that geezer in Leics that I went to see cos he had a Ford 60......... turned out to be a Dodge 3/4 ton with Dana 60 photographed upside down......... still it was a Dana 60 and with Norms rear there's your pair....both 8 lugs stud pattern as well............. go for it....Willo :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
Unfortunately, got other details to get sorted first :icon_rolleyes:
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MATE!!! that thing is damn sexy!! sucks so bad i am not there anymore to force you into follow the leader. the YJ deff looks just as sexy as the TJ. Job Well Done Mate - Job WELL DONE!
but is it ever done? lol
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Mucho thanks..............was a veritable monkey once it got started........................ and then got raped over bringing tires in under new lesbo tree hugging rules but couldn't stop at that point :icon_twisted:
Hydro steer is sweet .............. and turning circle better than it was as a YJ................... :icon_biggrin:
Just gotta get lockers in front and back.................. got list to purchase on e-bay at moment.................. 14 bolt only had gov bomb in it so got to get new carrier to fit detroit currently looking lonely on shop floor.
Send us pics of desert weather................... :icon_biggrin: we need it now :icon_super: :icon_super:
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Winch things................. :icon_twisted:
Well the 8274 disgraced itself in the Sheepdip at Cheapfest by spitting cable out when it had been told to 'Shut the feck off!"
So thanks to Warthog and a well winched up XJ for the extraction! :icon_super:
So had to be the solenoid eh???
[attachment=1]
2 very old ones and the others are cheap ones apparently...........
So ponied up for an Allbright and fitted inside in the warm and dry it should have an easier life?
[attachment=2]
It will look neater........... took a while to get right ...... would help if i could read a wiring diagram whislt talking to someone else :jpshakehead:
Then after all that the in cab switches work like a dream but the hand control............ another story.......
[attachment=3]
It was a loose wire that threw the winch into reverse at CF................bugger.............. still
New wiring
6 hp motor
new solenoid..........
its as good as a budget system is gonna get.............. for now.
And then clean up and some red paint................ had run out of black and this is brake caliper paint that I thought to be toooooo ghay for putting on the brakes :icon_twisted:
[attachment=4]
Next step............ bleed some cash to the US of A for axle bits to lock it all up :icon_super:
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ooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh :icon_super: anyone used the allbright copy i only have a shetland pony to spend on such sexyness
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Got one fitted works fine but only used once in anger
But only need to use winch once.
am going to a Write up as i did in cab , front grill control and a remote wireless controller.
to give me some options on winch control. :icon_super:
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The 'Big Off' switch was the one that saved me..........twice so far in 1 year :icon_twisted:
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ooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh :icon_super: anyone used the allbright copy i only have a shetland pony to spend on such sexyness
I have 2 , and they have work for 3 years.
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ooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh :icon_super: anyone used the allbright copy i only have a shetland pony to spend on such sexyness
I'm also using one and it was good enough to drag wildwood on a cheap chinese winch :icon_super:
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yup.............. ta for the tug :icon_biggrin: :icon_super:
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Now here's a thing.......aarrgghh :lol_hitting: :lol_hitting:
The easiest part of putting in a Lockright should be taking diff cover off and tapping roll pin out from centre pin.......
but.........I think someone has been in here before me :jpshakehead:
Bugger wont move....... have now sent out for a long punch/drift to help...... got a feeling won't make any odds though.
Looks like what should have been an easy job this evening may now be a job for grownups........ bugger :017:
Anyone been here before???
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no but got one waiting to go in so will be keeping an eye on how this goes
thanks for trailblazing :003:
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Only on a d35, when I was removing the shaft retaining screw it came half out then snapped. Beat the fuck out of the shaft to break off what was left of the screw then removed the remains after the shaft was out. But don't know on your big axles :017: bigger hammer :icon_biggrin:
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padded gloves or use some mole grips to hold the punch whilst using the heavy hammer
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some only drive out in one direction so you use a thin one to get out and a thicker one to go in
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Followed the instructions from Pirate that had pics and like them drove out from left to right as you sit in front of your rig. Seems its a long old bugger and 8mm so thats the size of big mother I've orderd................. tried it with old screwdriver cut to resemble drift but some how didn't work.............. 8mm bolt .bent and didn't work. Stopping before I hurt myself was maybe a good idea............... will keep you posted.
Otherwise its ring and carrier out and a job for a grown up............... :jpshakehead:. which would be a shame as it should be a 40 min job :banghead:
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If the 60 is like a bigger version of the 30s and 44s then just prybar the thing out.
The shims are inboard of the bearings so you wont alter anything and it will be far easier to manipulate and see what you are doing on a bench, just make sure the bearing caps go back as they came out (they should be stamped anyway) and also that they are torqued back up properly. :003:
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New long punch arrived when I was out so wont get it till Monday..bugger......
However was having a google tonight and a few post of the same prob so i dont feel toooooo bad.
Otherwise I'll take your advice Mr Sparky.
While I was indulging in a one legged arse kicking competition I realised I had all the parts to lock the diffs .........but with thick r and p for the rear and new carrier and r and p for the front I could get the gearing to what it should be for 40's ie 5.38 and not the 4.10 it is now....... so .....if no removal poss of the roll pin I will go that route in new year when have more fluff accrued :icon_twisted:
In the meantime I have the tube and steel sheet for the tube/flat fenders that arrived on friday late afternoon........ maybe I can get those done before end of year :icon_super:
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Tube fender alert.............. Weekend metal mayhem :smilie_winki:
Have cut one fender to pieces so I'm not going anywhere till the jobs done then :jpshakehead:
Got a pipe bender Mau Mart stylee from the bay ..new for £88 delivered ....... whoopeedo........not!
they don't call it the 'Kinkmaster' for nothing.
However you'll not notice when done... (and covered/disguised)......... and I've also found a way to do very nice 90 degree bends with no wrinkle now :icon_super: :icon_super: So the next set will be nice......... :icon_biggrin:
Have now got to get more tube for the fender flares that need 1.5 metres each and I'm doing the rear as well ..... so that's a 6 metre length then.....thats handy..... (cos they come that length :hysterical:)
Pics to follow when it looks like I know what I'm doing...... don't hold breath..... :icon_super:
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lookin forward to the pics dood :greggmo:
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So here's some pics of the progress to date...............
[attachment=1]
Spinal Tap stage prop???? Noooo tis the kink master
[attachment=2]
you can see where the rollers kink..........but the wonders of welding and the flap wheel and grinder..........oooh yes!
[attachment=3]
kept the inner arches to keep mud from engine elex and computer ecu and stuff
[attachment=5]
Bad bend and OK bend............ one day a proper tube bender awaits me...........
[attachment=4]
no bend in this....... can't see why they do one on the shop bought ones??? will have removeable panel here as space is now soooo tight.... no room for fingers and righty tighty stuff.
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And yet more mayhem...... decided to abuse the kink meister and make it work.........ggrrrrr :icon_twisted:
20mm solid bent to 180 degree and turned into a widget.......... can you guess what it is yet???
[attachment=1]
Ripped this off the King of the Hammers buggies........... tis a mirror mount...... just nee a 5" round mirror (on order)
[attachment=2
[attachment=3]
Today did the right side and stuff........... also took apart and welded and sanded the crimped marks .... so now looks like done by a grown up :hysterical: after this pic was taken obviously :jpshakehead:
[attachment=4]
[attachment=5]
Front view........... now to do the flares and sheet the lot in 2mm ........... lot of time for not a lot to show at the moment :jump_125:
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Right then finally got it all back together.So here's some pics......
The flares are 7" which is as wide as I would like to go but was needed to almost cover a full width Dana there's still 2and a half inches at least sticking out......
Just means that lt keeps the mud out of the cab and me :icon_twisted:
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
[attachment=3]
[attachment=4]
[attachment=6]
[attachment=5]
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And these are the panels that bolt in to allow hands and spanners to attach the fender.......
All held on by 6 bolts now and easy to remove :icon_twisted:
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
So what have I learnt................ :hysterical: :hysterical:
Well if I was doing another I would not bother to integrate the original inner arch....Pain in the butt cutting and welding that on.........
No, if I do another one it will be.....take original fender off in its entirety...... and fabricate afresh........ making inners is sooooo easy after you have the outer done.
The angle of the fender without the flare is 90 degree and the flare joins at 45 degree..... this was to enable trees to be leant against and not to hook up to a flare at 90 degrees....if you follow.
Any way I now have 2 nice picnic tables for Birty gatherings :hysterical:
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must be the angle os the photo but I can't see the pockets on that snooker table you got on the front. :hysterical: :hysterical:
does look good m8 nice job
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This Project, could make me buy a Jeep!
Liking it Jez :icon_super:
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talent dood :greggmo:
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God its been a time since a last '1 Ton post' ........ :jpshakehead:
Had to sell a few body parts to get going again.......(well a big old spindle moulder and cutters actually)..... so now I have....
a Baileigh tube notcher....... tube bender arriving later this month........
Just done the shipping on new R and Ps for the 60 and 14 bolt...5.38s..deepest you can go on a 14 bolt...... plus all bits like install kits and stuff that mounts up (feck).
Got bored over the new year and to get away from listening to the MIL talking bollix for England and being a bit Daily Mail.... i retreated to the workshop to weld practice on 1mm sheet. feck its not easy......
Ended up ripping the plastic Demon Tweaks scoop off the hood and fabbing a huge ugly mansize mother to get that honkin' KandN air filter under there.........
But you dont want to see that do you......... :hysterical:
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Couldn't get any of these little buggers over here so got a 1 3/4 and 1 1/4 coming over.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170742480790?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_951 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170742480790?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_951)
might make life more accurate :icon_twisted:
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Couldn't get any of these little buggers over here so got a 1 3/4 and 1 1/4 coming over.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170742480790?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_951 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170742480790?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_951)
might make life more accurate :icon_twisted:
JJ would be giving you some grief over this purchase.... :003:
No need for such things if you have the "FU"......Grinder Fu :003:
I would like some too....Just dont tell JJ!
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Now he's not reading this :icon_biggrin:
Yes I saw some grinder fu round at his........................ scary........................ but some of the gaps were pretty scary too................... only joking
a bit..................... :icon_twisted:
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Now he's not reading this :icon_biggrin:
JJ has been on a few times in the past week, check his profile :003:
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Well he'll deffo be on now cos of my ghay purchase :hysterical:
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he was online this morning :icon_winkle:
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if you wanna burn money............ buy me something!!!!
they do make life easier, you can do the same with paper though. I just learned how to do it quick form all the tubing work at jims or ponyracers. And what lies you spreading when im not around. none of the cage joints were anything but money! Only gaps i deal with are the ones in my teeth!
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:hysterical: :hysterical: Glad yer back on line.
I just got to learn how to use the new tools I got :icon_twisted:
Also been back to learn more welding..................... tig this time............... shiny tig cage joints are a coming up oh yes oh yes :icon_super:
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they are easy - just slide them on the tubing and push it to the joint, but unless you've gotten a plasma cutter, your still gonna have to use the grinder.
and tig is deff the better welder, you'll love it. I wont do another build without one.
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Learnt a nasty little trick ..............to bling up my tig welds to impress the teacher :hysterical:
Hit them with a wire wheel and they bling up like a feckin Rolex..................... almost makes me want to do a cage nekeed and then clearcoat it. :hysterical: :hysterical:
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hit them with a gold wire wheel and watch what happens. lol
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So ......... been doing things that don't warrant pics........
Today (whilst waiting for suppliers/liars to deliver???) I stripped front axle to do stuff........
Whilst cleaning crap off UJs on the Dana 60 noticed one was real tight and the other as sloppy as a sloppy thing.... turns out they are nearly toast...... with the locker in might have lasted an hour or so :jpshakehead:
Pain in the butt but glad I found it before they let go.........
USA Automotive....... after internet help with nos. apparently Dana Spicer 5-806X is not recognized :017:
£45 each...but they are big feckers :icon_biggrin: :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
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Have u ordered yet?
Had mine for the soa custom made in a dark satanic mill up north and after some hagglin dood threw in a spare set for the same money - bout £80 ish
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Yup coming on |Monday.............
You had UJs made for a Dana 60 oop t'north?
Oooh er well I'll go to the foot of t' stairs and shag a whippet :icon_twisted:
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ignore me :die:
I really got stop tryin to read posts and answerin them while im sittin in traffic jams :eusa_doh:
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Eyes on road.
'Your collection needs you' :icon_twisted:
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So .......... lockers. Hate to admit it the 1 Ton might have looked OK but without lockers it jusr wasn't floating my boat.
Over the last year I have been collecting , when funds allowed..... all the bits for a re gear......
So 1. detroit. 2. carrier. 3. Rand P. 4. Intall kit.
Just done the rear front to go next week...... :icon_super:
Cleaned up and ghayed up the brakes too :hysterical:
[attachment=1]
Big feck orf 5.38
[attachment=2]
And while there these are for Dogface and any one who cares to consider SOA
[attachment=3]
and the axle end
[attachment=4]
Checked it all 'Clickety click in all directions....' just add oil :icon_super:
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I got offered a hp uk pass side drop front d60 the other day if it interests you? Though i expect the price
May be the hingepin
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Tis worth adding to your collection for later :icon_twisted:
Keep us posted on the price and gearing.... Also late one ie kingpin or balljoint. Kingpin is the one to have!
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Just secured myself an Ifor Williams CT177......... for sensible wedge......... tis 5 years old....
So.......now got means to transport all being well with the deal :icon_twisted:
Just gotta finish the front axle :icon_super:
Why so big and wide you ask......... need the 87" load area for the 'wide wide 1 Ton front'........
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good work dood
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Just secured myself an Ifor Williams CT177......... for sensible wedge......... tis 5 years old....
So.......now got means to transport all being well with the deal :icon_twisted:
Just gotta finish the front axle :icon_super:
Why so big and wide you ask......... need the 87" load area for the 'wide wide 1 Ton front'........
Lucky bugger it is the trailer of choice!!!
I get my spare parts from Barlow Trailers (http://www.barlowtrailer.co.uk/) very reasonable price and normally in stock.
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How very strange???
'twas looking at them and their stock over the last few weeks almost made the move
Hopefully this one is a few £££ cheaper and up near King CJ so for me a tank cheaper!
This way I won't have a rear view mirror full of Dana 60, will all be a bit lower and more stable :icon_biggrin:
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Ahhh you have seen the light.
Honestly it's a great trailer for the wide boys!!!
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This way I won't have a rear view mirror full of Dana 60, will all be a bit lower and more stable :icon_biggrin:
Used one of these for the West Harp wknd:
http://www.acorntradingnorthwest.co.uk/products/l-135-trailers%20001.JPG (http://www.acorntradingnorthwest.co.uk/products/l-135-trailers%20001.JPG)
Brian James BTT-35T, very unerving with the vehicle high up :icon_eek: Needed to Suck down the Suspension due to the excessive body roll of the Pick-up :icon_eek:
Those CT 177 look a better option...
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and it helps to remember the key so you can take it off the tow car :hysterical:
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You just need a ML500 now and spank it at 80MPH.
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You just need a ML500 now and spank it at 80MPH.
Tut! Tut! You really should have both hands on the wheel at that speed IOManky :icon_winkle:
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and it helps to remember the key so you can take it off the tow car :hysterical:
:-[ :icon_redface: :003:
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yup tis the sort of thing I would do!!!
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Doh!
:003:
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You just need a ML500 now and spank it at 80MPH.
Tut! Tut! You really should have both hands on the wheel at that speed IOManky :icon_winkle:
:hysterical: :hysterical:
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and it helps to remember the key so you can take it off the tow car :hysterical:
twas a 'spacious' breakfast table :003:
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did one worse than that, spent oodles of money to go for a bank holiday weekend of racing (3 days) at cadwell park only to find when i get there i'd left the bike ignition keys at home.
the moral of this is that you learn how to hot wire a bike very quickly.
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So...... just finished putting Dana 60 and 14 bolt back under Jeep..
this time with detroit front and rear and with 5.38 r and p..... Fecker should climb out of the sheep dip now :jpshakehead:
Anyway run out of gear oil for front and brake fluid so will have to wait now..... But a play on calculator reveals a crawl ratio..... Gearbox 1 st x Dana low x Klune x r and p of....... Wait for it
246: 1 :hysterical: :hysterical: should be able to walk in front and spot myself :icon_twisted:
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So...... just finished putting Dana 60 and 14 bolt back under Jeep..
this time with detroit front and rear and with 5.38 r and p..... Fecker should climb out of the sheep dip now :jpshakehead:
Anyway run out of gear oil for front and brake fluid so will have to wait now..... But a play on calculator reveals a crawl ratio..... Gearbox 1 st x Dana low x Klune x r and p of....... Wait for it
246: 1 :hysterical: :hysterical: should be able to walk in front and spot myself :icon_twisted:
classic, mmmmm Klune!
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lot,s of torque for prop removal
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Probably twist em like licorice :jpshakehead:
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Dana 60 and 14 Bolt are meant to take 3 and a wisker of oil (litres) Wonder how I got nearlly 4 in each...maybe its the shape of the armoured diff covers.
Anyway might even get it started tomorrow if time allows........
Here's a pic of last thursdays purchase after a years research and selling the fourth kidney this year :jpshakehead:
[attachment=1]
Fecker is a bugger to get in the drive
[attachment=2]
And because you all were talking along this line the other day I gave the old girl a new "Tramp Stamp"
[attachment=3]
[attachment=4]
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Nice trailer...
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So loaded the 1 Ton onto the trailer and off 26miles to Yarwell LRO site for Lard Rover Show....
New ratios in the diffs .....great!
Lockers in both.....great
Did all things we saw Lardys failing at and recued one from a bog with winch.......that unlike Cheapfest did not misbehave this time......
mate who came with might have some pics soon.
Only bummer was getting a blow out on the trailer on the way home...... Completely shredded.....
But highlift did the business of lifting 1 Ton and trailer and spare was OK but needed air.....
1 Tons got on board air and had all tools with me. So 15 mins and back on way...... Just need to buy new tyre now
Bugger!
Note to self..... Small ramp and you don't need a jack to do the trailer wheel change.....just get fOoked tyre in air .
DIDN't have that with me this time :jpshakehead:
Oh yeah..... Yarwell is OK .....don't know if I'd bother again......
Tixover later this month......they got rocks. :icon_twisted:
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Have you seen how much air is needed in those tiny trailer tyres?
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Just the man!
yes 90 psi :hysterical:
They seem to run warm compared to the tow GC tyres.... is this your experience too?
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Run mine at 80 works for me - try Barlow for the replacement tyre, possibly cost effective to buy the whole thing!!!
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Yup Been having a google.... Quite a few offering rim and tyre combo...... might go,this toute as all rims are kerbed.
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Been having evil thoughts :icon_twisted:
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?90144-80-CJ-with-YJ-frame-tub-and-MB-grille (http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?90144-80-CJ-with-YJ-frame-tub-and-MB-grille)
Jeep parts have em £95...........
Got to be done I think
(Stands well back and dodges the haters/flamers) :icon_super:
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I like :icon_super:
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:iagree: like that a lot an uber cool jeep.
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Been having evil thoughts :icon_twisted:
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?90144-80-CJ-with-YJ-frame-tub-and-MB-grille (http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?90144-80-CJ-with-YJ-frame-tub-and-MB-grille)
Jeep parts have em £95...........
Got to be done I think
(Stands well back and dodges the haters/flamers) :icon_super:
I needs me one of them, wonder if you can graft one on to a TJ :017:
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Oh yes I think so ....
So a bit of cut n stitch....... This winter......... Think I might order one up this week...... Glad I didn't unleash a tsunami of hate :icon_super:
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Spoke to Dand S factors 01775 820309
they make wheels to order.....
20" rim 11" width 8 on 6.5" pcd. (ideally to take 405/70R20 ....tis a 48 inch one)
£145. Not bad but not a beadlock tho.......
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So will be old school tyre changes!!! As no machine I have ever seen could plop a 48" tyre on.
Must be beadlock Matt could be the answer with the Mach6.
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That's the beauty of the Stazworks jobbies.....easy tyre mounting....
We do have mobile tractor tyre maintenance out here in the dark fens....might have to strike up a friendship :icon_twisted:
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Indeed but to fit a tyre on a Staz you need to learn the white spot routine!!!
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White spot?????
I will refrain from the smut angle
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You not seen it then?
Basically you mark the tyre so you can see when its true on the rim - this MUST be done before you offer the tyre to the rim, hope that make some sense?
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ah :icon_biggrin:
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While I sit in a telephone queue for a new phone cos mine just went bollix....here are a few pics of Yarwell the other weekend.
Mostly sandy site with lakes and some mud ..very few rocks..probably OK if a bunch of you are doing follow the leader (nutter) type of thing
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
Came across this so had to lend a hand/winch :icon_twisted:
[attachment=3]
[attachment=4]
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I need to come and play with you when I'm done :icon_super:
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I need to come and play with you when I'm done :icon_super:
thats got to be the quote of the week.
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young maan.....
I woulda thort DT woulda got quote of the week. Anyhow nice rig WW
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Tourrettes moment block your ears
Shit feck piss dam bollix arse mofo wank! :icon_twisted:
feel better now :icon_biggrin:
battery has died....... Was a new winchy type NUmax CXV-X 1000 cold cranking amps and was fine until this week when barely started the 1 Ton so C- Tec charged and did the business and no better and now after optimised charging overnight just rattles the solenoids.....
tried it on the GC..... same deal
tried the old GC battery on the 1 Ton and starts a treat.......
3 Year warranty so got to take it to some place in Bedford for surgery..... And examination. Feck will take a week so have to use another battery for CF..... Bugger.
Still, I got to clean all terminals down by the starter.....nasty and messy...... Might help!
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I'm kinda thinking your Charger may not have the "Balls" to kickstart the battery?
What output rating is it and does it have the Turbo function, like the Optmates? Has it a CCA range max on it?
You'll be looking for charger with something like 0.2 to 5 amp output for batts that size.
http://www.accumate.co.uk/ (http://www.accumate.co.uk/)
I was advised I would be looking at specs for an Optimate 6, for big old batteries.
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had this thought in the early hrs of the morning..
Tis a C- Tek 3600 that will do up to 10000 CCA apparently......just..... So maybe that's the problem
weird thing is light in battery said green and charged.....lights on C- Tek said charged......
Charged up a 660 CCA battery of a mates I am using .did the business and was ready in 20 hrs..... Starts the 1 Ton like a good'un
Think you might be right tho..... Which would confirm a niggle I was having........
OR........ Really is a duff cell......... might get it back Thurs......Just in time :icon_biggrin:
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I seem to be great a killing batteries, I watched a few Optima videos on Youtube a while ago about reviving one and they reckon that a 10 amp charger is the wa to go. I have a CTEK and a traditional 2/5 amp charger and neither could bring an Odyssey back to life. The 10 amp charger is my next option - seatch youtube for optima battery stuff
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reckon that could be way to go....... But will bend the ear of the battery people who say the C-Tek will maintenance charge up to 120 AH and my battery is 86 AH
I guess their get out is the 'maintenance charge' bit rather than recovery?
raised another thing whilst googling my battery ...... They ain.t as expensive as I paid from X Engineering but he does not do em any more....
But if you click onto any battery it will suggest a more powerful one for similar money...... Very soon you find yourself looking at 120 AH or 150 AH ...... Mmmmmn nice
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I have the same battery fitted now, got it from Tayna batteries (mail order supplier) for cheaper than Gigglepin prices and posted quick too. It has lasted as well as the Optima and Odysseys I've had before and both those brand seem to have jumped in price so I'm probably not going back down that route again
Edit: Maybe I meant X-eng not G-pin, can't really remember who I was looking at when buying
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Wey, hey...... :icon_super:
just got a call from the battery folks and mine was....... Rogered....(not by me) :icon_biggrin:
So a new one is earmarked for me....... So if providence is on my side and car and trailer and traffic behave themselves the 1 Ton will be sporting a new battery this weekend at CF :flag:
Note to self..... Why the feck did I not buy direct from battery people in the first place :017:
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So.... Was expecting a call about when I can collect my new battery :icon_twisted:
Just got off the phone with Manbat the suppliers who have tested my rogered one and apparently my course of action is through the retailer I bought it from.... So that's David at X Engineering....
Hats off to the man and got to say a top supplier..... Not his fault battery went tits up...... just got off the phone and he will chase it up and get battery sent to me or if that can't be done I will get refund from him at X Engineering.
Won't be in time for CF but at least I'm not getting the bums run around on this one.
So a big up for David at X Engineering...... can't say fairer than that! :icon_super:
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:iagree:..about time ya had a win Jez.
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So it says 'not posted for 120 days' about my junk..... so here goes... Shooting Ferals and Welding Shit...and getting bored over Christmas....So did this :icon_super:
Still on a battery theme would you believe.......
Decided that for the winching and stuff 2 batteries are needed and looked at ditching the heater and running them back to back with the bulkhead between them.....but heater is quite useful and a small replacement one and all attendant hassles blew that course of action out the water.....money and time......
Took the fender of and saw an opportunity....
[attachment=1]
It will fit
[attachment=2]
Bit of bend and weld
[attachment=3]
Fits quite well
[attachment=4]
Then some sheets of cardboard for template and 4 bolts allow inner wing to be removed.
[attachment=5]
Irony is I have rogered another battery......the one donated to me for CF.....was 7 years old tho.
So now no excuse for not getting 2 matching 1000 CCA XV batteries..... crank on :icon_super:
AND YES I did tidy that attrocious bollix of wiring up...... :icon_biggrin:
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Man has this puppy grown.....
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G'Day me old mate....... And bigger means the weakest link moves up the chain.......just grenaded the double cardan on the prop :jpshakehead:
And the weight of it on the trailer ....screwed the gearbox on the Grand......almost.....and fried the brakes.
still love it.........just need the Ram Cummins to tow......
I blame you and Johnny........for leading me astray :hysterical:
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I blame you and Johnny........for leading me astray :hysterical:
Don't blame me - blame Uncle Sam. If I was still there Id bribe all your time to help me on the TJ still. Then you wouldn't have time for the YJ.
Sounds like you need a farmers PTO for a drive shaft like the TJ had.
I am surprised the Grad wasn't happy. I know the TJ weighted more and it was fine behind the Tacoma. Not happy but livable.
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Grand seemed liveable for a few trips and was OK up hills although...40mph type of thing.....
Steep hills to Breakout got the brakes on the Grand smoking even tho trailer brakes had just been done...... initial car brakes needed to activate trailer brakes ...... :jpshakehead:
And I guess .......no tow package so gearbox getting.......HOT.....
Tis for sale now....... :icon_biggrin:
In the meantime to make moving the trailer round the tight 90 degree angle to get out the gate I cobbled this together. Believe it or not that tow ball is 18" above the ground......(same as the Grand)
Did it yesterday evening.....from stuff i had lying around.....
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Right then...... Got some energy in me bones and am picking up the TJ chassis next week......followed by MOCAJ's tub later in the year........ So Project Loose Change is finally off the blocks.........
Most parts from the 1 Ton will go on this project....... the only real difference will be 4 link at both ends and longer wheelbase....... AND LESS WEIGHT!!!!!!!!!!
Noŵ then real question is this....... Although as a daily driver the pre 1 Ton had LPG and great it was saving its installation cost and then some........but do I need it on an offroad trailer queen??
I think not.......
Question is will a full multipoint system be of any interest to anyone........ Will be taken offwith all bits to reinstall..... Will also donate manifold with LPG injectors already attached ready to bolt
up and make life easy.
has a wheelbox to wheel box 80 litre tank........
Any takers........ (Later in year of course!)
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shame it wont go on a 401 :icon_sad:
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Are you sure? My system was for 5-8 cylinder engines
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:iagree:
It could work
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Tbh I thort coz it is carbs it needed a differnt system?
If it will work woud def b interested
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prob just need 2 more injector things for the extra two pots..... Maybe some electrickery stuff.
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So......I'm still waiting on a cheap fix with parts on the prop........Bailey Morris at St Neots....maybe this week cos need it for Kirton........
Today I lost 100 lbs......
cut the rear off my new to me TJ chassis...... Cut just in front of the coil spring mounts.......
Tis all planned in my head at the moment.......not the best place to keep things you may think???
Welding stuff on will have to wait till body tub is hovering above.....
Will be moving body mounts to above chassis to give 100 mm lift but with no lift pucks......will ensure super flat underside and super low height at full bump......... :icon_twisted:
As usual most ideas are a cocktail of stuff from Pirate......and the 'back half inspiration' thread
:icon_super:
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Jezz, what happened to the spitfire exhaust out the bonnet look we discussed at cheapfest, you know you want to :icon_twisted:
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Arha! yes I'd forgot that........ :hysterical:
basic plan is to swap all from the present 1 ton YJ thing to the TJ that will be buggified...... In my mind......that will be quite cheap......not a word you associate with Jeep :icon_twisted:.....should just be the cost of doing the 4 link front and rear that I have to spring for........
BUT.........a manly 8 up front would make me a happy hippie......fender well headers fnarrr.
I guess selling the LPG'd low mileage 35k 4 litre. Would raise a tiny bit of cash for the cause......
Or just more Merlot :icon_super:
more useless info Jeepparts .co.uk are selling MB grills for £95........ Matron..........they were £200 last year...... :icon_biggrin:
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exhaust ideas Jezz oh am i a bad influence, turn up ya sound :icon_super:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ0u9iRTWyI
STOP AT 3 MINS
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Epic .....love the owners comment........that's got a bit hot that has! :hysterical:
Amazing that they still sound. Like aeroplanes on the fast passes........even without a prop!
Dubious mate of mine had a kit on his YJ.........was basically an extra spark. Plug in the exhaust outlet.......flick a switch and it would kill spark to the engine for a moment and then route spark to exhaust outlet.........
result was 1 foot flames for 5 secs.......... Childish......yes.......... Fun.......? deffo!
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Boat Side rockers..........
Having taked front fenders off to redo em and rad out to replace and steering cooler now behind grill.
I then looked at a tin of new cutting discs and ....... grinder fu took over......
Taken rocker protection off and cut nerf bars off to redo ......but then got taken with the boat side thing..... here's a Pirate vendors take on the matter.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/body-armor/1536305-jeep-boatside-rocker-panels.html
Obviously I'd be doing my own.....
Anybody ever done some over this side of the pond?
Next to come out is the factory cage with add ons cos it aint up to snuff really is it......
The front cage bolt on is an Or Fab item and will be up for jaffas soon, if ya want.
Trip to metal factors on cards next week......
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HMMMM so.....
What have you for side protection?
What have you as jacking points?
What have you as a boost to get in the 1 TON?
Think again, this looks good but impractical.
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Yes I have just come in from a measure up with the Sharpie and the straight edge and all those questions, reared their ugly head and remain unanswered :jpshakehead:
And then the welding of the inside to tidy up......... Which over the pond no one seems to do......
soooo much work for sooo little gain......
Original plan was to replace cill nerf barswhich was my first welding job :icon_biggrin: with some better ones bent in the bender rather than mitre cut......
They will stick further out and as before tie into chassis and then.........
Front hoop exo cage and rear hoop exocage.....tied together by roof bars.....also exo......
this has all come about due to the tree hitting history of this year :icon_redface:
what do you all think........ Negative is added weight......positive is it can roll like a football and survive :icon_twisted:
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Mean machine Jez..bet she'd turn some heads on an Aussie beach!!
-
oh for the warmth of a North Sydney Beach........ Burning lots in the workshop woodburner to keep the SAD at bay.........
But Tis merlot time........ :icon_super: and then loud music ...... To drown out celeb dancing bollix...... Oh yes.
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:icon_super: Great minds think alike mate!
-
Jez you have youth as a boost to get in. You are not as old as some island dwellers. :hysterical:
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I know its terribly boring and aesthetic and all that sh1t
but ...
i like the look of the wrangler and i'm not convinced about all this exo cage stuff
Just don't think it looks that nice
with your skills WW can you not get it inside
wow made a comment rather than a question there's a first must be the full fifteen
Regards Tim
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Hmm, it's always that choice between complete protection and looks, style and even function.
If you wheel in the desert holes in the floor don't matter - go playing at 7S in November and it's a bit different!
Having been in the garage with grinder and welder all day myself just on a winch mount the boatsides would be a big job.
Ho hum, no real contribution there, best get back to the wine :hysterical:
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Surely a cage is to protect the driver more than the vehicle. Internal cages look nicer and don't get caught on so much but external protect the panels. Internal with an external screen hoop I think.
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Surely a cage is to protect the driver more than the vehicle. Internal cages look nicer and don't get caught on so much but external protect the panels. Internal with an external screen hoop I think.
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Yup. been out there burning the wood in the woodburner and measuring and stuff...... got to agree exo cages are not the prettiest.
But then I didn't like the front fenders with the extended arches...... That's why they had to go......
just means more mud...... :hysterical: but I have a cunning plan :icon_biggrin:
So..... Internal cage and reinstate the nerf bars on the cills........ But I now need a Tig welder to do cage properly ........have been practicing on fish mouthed tubes with mig and it just doesn't look right........I could bore with the metallurgy of why Tig and why Pulse welding and stuff but I'll spare you that :hysterical:
so leaner meaner and with less protection......... Just need to do it now....... :icon_super:
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oh bloody hell
I hope i have been of absolutely no influence at all
'cause what the hell do i know square root of F all
i do know a bit about really boring stuff like investments and pensions etc etc
response from the crowd shut up and move on
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Tim I hope you didn't think I meant you had made no contribution - it was a comment about my own lack of useful input and the fact I was heavily into a bottle of white at the time.
My more sober contribution would be that I plan / hope to build an internal cage for safety if it does all goes wrong and I fall off a mountain doing 1000 Rivers or something silly but then also have a minimal amount of external bars just to protect bodywork and windscreen.
The downside is weight. I'm pondering doing a thinner wall internal cage (50.8mm 2mm wall is MSA spec minimum) cos it won't be bashed on things and then use 3.2mm wall for external stuff. Maybe even lose some weight replacing glass with plastic? Now I'm just into pure speculation... I have seen some nice cages on chop top XJs and I have borrowed a 9" grinder :003:
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spent this afternoon practicing more welds on fish mouth tube scraps....... MIG stylee...... Tis possible but continuous move around tube is effin impossible........ Sme web sites would have you beleive that only TIG and pulse is acceptable for some race scrutineering bodies......?????
I will say that TIG pulse is very controllable and gives fish scales.....stack of dimes ......and you can stop and reposition and carry on.......... it gives a higher heat on Pulse and its focused onthe join so making a stronger weld root.......
there you go bored you to death now.
So ........ No flares on front fenders and internal cage....... Will do the angry eyes on the screen !!
LOL..... :hysterical:...... if windscreen gets rogered it comes of........ As a mate said .......you built it to offroad..... And it travels by trailer so what's the prob..........
got to say I'm coming round to that .......keeps the weight down :icon_super:
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These guys don't do TIG and the cages and skill looks top rate:
http://www.customcages.co.uk/roll-cages/weld-in-fitting-guide (http://www.customcages.co.uk/roll-cages/weld-in-fitting-guide)
I couldn't embed the videos using this tablet, lack of skill / fat fingers.
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nice vid,James..... Like the sample he welded at beginning........just managed to do one like that.......... Just.... :icon_twisted:!
This afternoon spent two hours undoing 4 bolts that secure the body mounts either side.......to release my rocker guards and rails......
And then more time undoing two bolts that hold one seat belt to the tub and floor......
The reason?????? Captive feckin bolts seized with 22 years of mud and crap .......bollix
Have now got 4 holes in the floor the size of matchboxes that allowed me to get a big effin adjustable on the no longer captive nut whilst giving it 350 ft lbs with the windy gun
Off to do the other side now........ lots of language involved in this process so Merlot will be consumed after 7...... Maybe earlier :icon_super:
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If it helps Jez..it's just gone 7 over here!! :icon_winkle:
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ITS TUESDAY!!!!! So Porto is about to be consumed, go get that foooookin captive MOFO'r...
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So..... No updates since 3 Dec.......The shame the shame :jpshakehead:
Since the captive nut fiasco and throwing the extension lead in a bucket of water.......things have moved along....... Welded the holes in the floor that I cut..... :icon_biggrin:
Cut six more holes in the floor for the cage mounting points.......and welded all the chassis to mounting plates tubes that will support the cage
I really will have to take some pics tomorrow....... :jpshakehead:
So...... Ready for cage....... 5 sticks. Of 1.75 CDS arrived last Friday each length 5.6 metres
Effin heavy...... God knows what weight I'll be adding....... :icon_biggrin:
removed the abortion of a crash pad above the dash on the YJ .......means I can move one of the A bar lateral bars down 3".
Pics tomorrow so you'll know what the f *** I am on about.
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So a few pics of the carnage to date
Fenders off and cage removed
A B and C pillar stuff.....
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Just had to check that those little buggers were coming through...... so here's some more....
Glad I labelled them cos I can't seem to get my copy after the pic......no worries.... :icon_biggrin:
So that was the well over the top means of chassis to cage mounting that I chose...... should save my melon I hope....
Also took the retarded dash pad off and fabed this thingy to stop rain getting behind dials.....Flat dash like a CJ is in the pipeline......
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C Pillar shot has fallen over....sorry....after pic transfer it will not do what its feckin told to do.
So to round this off decided to move the steering cooler behind the grill and fit new rad so I could ditch the elec fan that was there. Fitted hood pins to keep the lid shut.... repaired the tree damage to the bulkhead and opening up myself to a flaming from the Welding Nazis but here's a sample weld :icon_twisted:
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Looking good Jez...you've got a firm grip on the end product! :icon_super: :icon_super:
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Finally done it... :ace:
Tube bender dies and bits........ Got em ......went over to Stakesys in Leicester and bent some tube.
And then....
Bought one........
stand by for bad language wasted sections of tube and maybe a cage :hysterical:
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Awesome :icon_super:
Bend Tech Pro is supposed to be the software to help avoid wasting too much tube.
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with all the mods going on couldnt you find a better location for the battery?
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Kin right :icon_biggrin:
I want to stick both of them behind the seats on the raised area that is the start of the rear floor...nicely amid ships of everything......
But the kin gas LPG tank is there...... :jpshakehead:
Got my eyes out on the bay for another inlet manifold so I can ditch the propane system shave some weight and gain some space........
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stand by for bad language & wasted sections of tube :hysterical:
Looking forward to it :icon_winkle:
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Finally done it... :ace:
Tube bender dies and bits........ Got em ......went over to Stakesys in Leicester and bent some tube.
And then....
Bought one........
stand by for bad language wasted sections of tube and maybe a cage :hysterical:
Get yourself some flexible pipe and offer it up to get an idea of length and bends, another way of doing it is to bend some cheap thin wall pipe first :003:
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used Bend Tech Pro today....or the guy at Stakesys did and Tis an awsum piece of software.
You could design a complete,buggy and it would sort all the pieces bends and fish mouths so you could build two at the same time if you wanted.
However I took a piece to be bent at 90 degrees at each end..... Measurement to be 48" external max outside. Or however you want to term it.......
came out at 48" centre to centre....... So needs a bit of a tweak ....... :hysterical:
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Sounds like you have the template set to centre dims not outside?
Example template:
http://www.bend-tech.com/images/template.png
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Right now.... Here are some pics of what I've done so far.....
Its all held together with tacks....(the cage that is..) so next week Its gets lifted out and finish welded and painted.
The rocker bars are at 45 degrees and were an alternative to boat sides that would make it impossible to get in......
The hip bars are actually easy to get over for a thin basterd like me....... no fatsters in here :hysterical:
The B pillar is at same angle as factory but 3 inches to rear so at last room for seat...... I made it 2 inches higher as well as I have 1,1/2 spacers under my seat to get it comfortable.
Went a bit mental on the roof .....all in the reason of my head......there is now 6 inches of headroom where before my head almost touched the canvas.
Bit of a jungle gym at the rear but triangulate triangulate is what they say on Pirate, and there is a bar for harness there as well.
The nose was an afterthought and finished that last night...... had stuff left over so why not :icon_twisted: Its welded together but not welded to the chassis yet.
Hopefully some pics will follow.
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nice job
lets hope you never need to test it
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I can see where you're going with this Jez...it's going to work well! Just the thing Holden panel vans needed, back in the day! :greggmo:
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Streuth mate not the 'old ankle straps' oh yes........ :hysterical:
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I thought you might remember those..... :hysterical:
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It's looking good Jez
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still like the "bullet holes" in the bonnet, but aren't they a bit redundant now the front end has been drastically lightened of body work
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Yeah :hysterical:and now the front fenders are.......er.....minimal! I have a feeling a big muddy
CF sheep dip might not be much fun......
Oh yes......I've ditched the windscreen........ That bugger with wipers motor and stuff must have been 70lbs at least :icon_twisted:
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That bugger with wipers motor and stuff must have been 70lbs at least :icon_twisted:
thats a 5th of a birty
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Good job mate, looking good :greggmo:
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you going for aero screens for the biggles look
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Might go,the aero screen route if 'mud factor' is bad, otherwise I've got some motorcycle goggles from the dim distant past..... :icon_super:
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Nice work Jez :icon_super:
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Looking good, I can see hours have gone into that.
I can't help myself :icon_redface: (feel free to ignore!) - could you angle the outer roof bars towards the corner bend of the A-pillar? This seems to be where a lot of impact happens in Jeep rolls and would also triangulate a bit more? Like I said, it's your Jeep do as you like, I've never built one so have no idea how possible the suggestion might be :peekaboo:
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Wondered when someone would spot that :hysterical:
Truth is that was the plan, but being the muppet that I am with tape measures.......well you can guess the rest. :jpshakehead:
So with the short bits that I unintentionally had left I went overboard with the triangulation of the B to C hoops and beyond.
I am quite impressed that out of the 6 sticks that went into this build there are only three builders buckets of off cuts and scrap :icon_super:
being a bit of a bull in china shop I bolted the bender to the floor and dived in headlong........
As I now know trying to get my head around one of the Bend Pro software progs would have made
Life so much easier......you have no idea the pieces I bent that got 'saved' and put aside cos they might come in useful.......
In fact the complete nose is the result of minor eff ups.........and I am perversely quite pleased with that :hysterical:
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Right then... a few weekends and evenings down the line and tis a rolling working thing......
Just need to get some harnesses delivered and more blue air pipe for the air drum winch disconnect thing.....
Oh and I am bolting the stinger to the chassis not welding....so need to get more steel for that.....decision was made due to the hassle of an engine out scenario with the monster welded in the way...
here's some pics.
Now I've started painting it the chances are the whole lot will end up getting done :icon_twisted:
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And now the bitter pill.......
Due to family stuff its a question of all dressed up and nowhere to go.......
but I'll cover that in events.......
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Looking good
Hope you get time to use it
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Looks great Jez...I can see the blood sweat and tears involved in it (and hear the odd grumpy word, softly spoken!) And...I love the colour!
:icon_super:
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Top work hippy :icon_super:
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And now the bitter pill.......
Due to family stuff its a question of all dressed up and nowhere to go.......
but I'll cover that in events.......
Now Jez
you know my position in this country's legislature
I will make it illegal for you not to turn up at breakout
who else is going to drag me into all the wrong places which i then repay by making them break stuff
Regards Tim
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Wildwood,
What prep and paint did you use on the cage? I'm thinking of hammerite or POR15 primer/POR 15/Topcoat (worked before on my TJ cage).
I've got a shed load of tube to paint, Buggy is over a grand to get shot blasted and then painted professionally so a bit of a non-starter really, anyway, I'd only scrape paint off on the rocks!
Lord Tim,
I'll be popping along to West Harptree so, 1) I'll bring a dual battery tray (just chucked it the car so I won't forget it!) and 2) take you to some interesting bits of site - its my local, 30 minutes from home.
tah
Cuffy
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I am afraid I went the cheap as chips route.......
Wire brush on drill to clean tube then POR marine clean .....but other stuff would do.......or even a wipe down with thinners.
Then because I have compressor and spray paint gun......
Filler primer cellulose grey undercoat ......wet and dry sand then more wipe down and then
Cellulose gloss top coat from e bay.......got sent from inniskilin..... Loads of colour choices....cost £12.50 per litre.......used litre and a half........ To do all that you see that Is different from Jeep colour.......
If you have access to spray it does mean that like me you can tart it up at a moments notice......I can see that the rock bars are going to take a pasting so couple of times a year quick blow over....
However just remembered that the original cage I sprayed with black stone chip .....and apart from a few tree rubs it is still good to go and living outside my workshop :icon_twisted:
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I'm reliably informed that POR15 is the absolute dogs !!
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Now Jez
you know my position in this country's legislature
I will make it illegal for you not to turn up at breakout
who else is going to drag me into all the wrong places which i then repay by making them break stuff
Regards Tim
Tim, my Jeep is fully working and ready to be broken so I'll happily take you on a little tour. I'm keen to see where Mike can point us too.
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Cheap as chips works for me, I'll try spraying a couple of test pieces and see how they turn out.
Thinking ahead, got a couple of months of finishing work to do first, panelling, general fitting out, wiring etc.
POR15 is good stuff, used it on/off for over 15 years, will probably use it on my axles.
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Used POR15 on the 14 bolt and Dana60 and some of the chassis additions. Amazing stuff and lasts and lasts.....
Wear gloves cause it sticks like a bastard......... And in my case .....'wear a hat' :hysterical:
I bought the sample pack of 6 chassis black and 6 POR15 .......mainly because if you open a can its best to use it otherwise the lid will really really stick to the can if you try to reseal, also cheap brushes because it's not worth the clean up......just bin em. :icon_super:
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I've kept several cans of POR15 reusable by putting cling film over the top before fitting lid and then storing can upside down, this stops POR15 gluing lid to can. Although I've not had a leak yet, I store can in a bucket, because sods law dictates if don't.....
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MMMN.....clever......the upside down bit......l
Have been having the same prob with Protectocote so might try that technique with that.
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Right then in a moment of clarity I have realised my full harness will need to go through the seats to do their job.........otherwise shoulders will fall out from straps soooooo.
On the search for 'affordable' cheap as chips wipe down buckets........
Got my eyes on some Catherham 7 ones that will make the cabin seem large as they are S for small.......
Otherwise......boring as a boring thing in 1 Tonne land......... :icon_super:
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Have a look at the seats whitbread offroad sell, if i'm not mistaken mikec has a set for sale
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Thanks tried to email and PM Mike but he's obviously away or busy elsewhere...... I'm patient tho!
Today put my new to me alternator on that has more than 80ah....... :hysterical:.....this one about 135ah........
Nice smooth bearing action......
Mine was quite tight......
Guess what???? Doesn't scream like a beitch on start up now so win win .......
Easy to do when 5 bolts and the fender is off and I can sit on the wheel to play.....
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had some steeland a dually hub......actually got 2 :jpshakehead:
so made this.
Can you see what it is yet :icon_sad:
So now I can change tires.......as long as they are 8 on 6.5 chev pattern :icon_super:
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So thanks to MikeC I have new thrones and I had to get some belts...would have been rude not to.
Seats I thought would be smaller but fit within the cage in the position of the originals..... more by luck than judgement......as I built the cage with the other seats as a template :jpshakehead:
They also give more lift so much head scratching anf metal glue and losing the 30 mm risers I had on the drivers seat and it all works.
The lap straps have a long journey to the floor as the seats are on the factory frames....
They fit me but a generous Birty might find it a bit of a squeeze.......
So only fit birds as a winchy from now on :hysterical:
Next winter will attach more steel to the cage and hard mount the seats to that which will give more seat belt adjustment...... Just like you should..... but for now thats it :icon_super:
All I ve got to do now is get to a bloody event :icon_twisted:
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Its all looking a bit to posh :003:
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Looks perfect mate. Wish I was still over there, I'd buy your leafs off you. Lol
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So...... In my spare moments I have been mostly removing my Prinz LPG system.
Rusty nuts and filth everywhere......... :icon_twisted:
Tank out and ......well it weighs a bit....... 80lbs probably...... And it's empty.....Tis a 90 litre tank.
I have taken the LPG wiring loom off and have a wiring diagram of how they spliced into the original loom that goes to the ECU
Easy really 6 wires cut and spliced and 2 wires accessed with no cut......
Inlet manifold is now off and basically the whole plot is a big and easy Lego/Meccano kit for the lucky new owner........
I just have to assemble my POS so that it works again........
New inlet/exhaust gasket? Be churlish not to........ Paint the rusty exhaust manifold???? Might as well as I can't get a gasket until during the week.........
Clean things and stuff ........... OCD might be kicking in here :jpshakehead:
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So it's working on petrol again and the LPG system is on the bay........
So with all that real estate free at the rear it seemed rude not to fill it up again.
So rear winch time........
Cut the holes for the monster brackets that weld to the çhassis..... Done that
Got the winch plate from about 12 years ago....... Done and dusted.....
BUT
I need advice on a cheap (it is going on the rear) winch....... If I had to buy new it would be a goodwinch 9.5 at under £400......
But I am unbiased and open to suggestion.........
Secondhand Warn anyone?????
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One of these ? Helpfull folk, full spares back up and they use these on their own challenge truck.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13000lb-RECOVERY-WINCH-12v-4x4-WINCH-IT-Check-the-Specification-off-road-truck-/261481799201?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3ce1879e21
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Amazing deal...... Has sensible gearing too :icon_biggrin:
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I've one on the front of mine. They do 30m of Dyneema with hawse and comp hook for around £140.
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So. A bit of welding and ready for a new winch.
Serious brackets from 6 mm plate..... Çhassis a bit thin at bottom at rear seems to be thinning from inside..... Gonna get cut and 4 linked one day :hysterical:
For Those that saw fuel pissin out the front of mine at CF ..... Tis now fixed.....little red joby is a roll over valve that I never fitted when running LPG as tank was only 2 inches full.
Here's some pics. Oh yes and the rock rails now have bedliners on as antislip.
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So more than 120 days later so it was flagged and I chucked on one of these in the rear.
Got some monster 50mm cable and a kill switch arriving tomorrow, to finish it off.
Thanks to YT for the heads up on these.
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Well it'll be easy to spray out when it's clogged up with mud.
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G'day JJ how's it,going,and what are you driving......????? Inquiring minds need to know
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Hi Jez spotted your truck on a video
so you did buy the LS!
Truck seems to have changed colour
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CVkOS59Dak
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Nice knuckles !!
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Still running leaves at the front......good man......keeps you upright :icon_biggrin:
Give me a year.......or two......
LS mill. Mmmmn still got an evil eye on the caddy 500 and box that no one seems to want....
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I have a very old and we'll beaten tin bender that is waiting for me to back from a 6 week class in texas so I can start freshening her up for light offroad work.
Nothing as big as the TJ, but we all know it'll be crazy in the fab department
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Nice one.....post up your progress pics...... :icon_super:
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I will once I get started. I just enjoy driving her as is at the moment.
But she needs some love.
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Streuth .....all quiet since March :jpshakehead:
This is a tool question..... Or more exactly a Powerdrill question.
Have been making cage for the seats and have yet again burnt out a £ 90 Bosch drill.
Cutting the fish mouths in the tube is the killer?
What does anyone reccommend that isn't £500 L-ion 36v techno stuff?
They seem to last a year with the use and abuse I put them through........sometimes even doing joinery :icon_twisted:
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Are you using corded or battery? I've used my same craftsman corded drill for years but only 50-100 fish mouths. I've always dome them by hand with a sanding disk on a grinder.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Corded .....does fish mouths with the hole cutter and jig
but sometimes jams :hysterical: And then smacks me in the head :jpshakehead:
It's this that kills it long term...... Difficult to find a corded drill with a clutch mechanism
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I dont know if mine has a clutch as it could break your wrist if you werent paying attention.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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my dewalt 230v sds/normal drill has a clutch
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I've abused the hell out of a corded Makita SDS that I got for about £140. I couldn't say if it has a clutch or not but it has been used as a breaker, done 100mm cores...
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Thanks ....guess I need to man up from the 600 watt stuff that I can get away with for joinery and drilling plugs for the odd wall.....
Off to Screwfix locally they seem to have some deals.... :icon_super:
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just read the whole thread, awesome, that is one hard looking Jeep. keep up the good work!
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Thanks .
Mutual respect..... Love the mb/CJ stretch
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Better off with a proper chuck that changes with the head and not the SDS plug in type.....they tend to waggle :003:
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I had to replace all my electric tools when I moved in 2008. My old drill was a big Dewalt hammer drill that took abuse and kept on working. It even tried electrocuting me several times while wrapped in a plastic bag putting plywood on my windows before a hurricane. It was raining so bad at the time air cooling wasn't an option. Neither the drill or I died and the house was still standing after minus part of the roof so all was good.
I replaced it with another 2 speed Dewalt hammer drill at Screwfix and it has been running fine since. Built my cage, drilled 100mm holes in my house and anything else I asked. Works fine but I have to be very careful because when it does jam it tries ripping my head off. Notching tubes in the garage can hurt if you don't watch it. But when it jams and you are standing on top of a ladder drilling bricks it gets very exciting.
I also prefer a standard keyed chuck then a twist lock.
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Yes..... :hysterical:the jamming hurts, both the drill and the operator.....
Had one jam on me drilling a core from a wall for fan outlet.... But being left handed it spun round and hit me on top of the head.....as you say up a ladder makes life exciting :jpshakehead:
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My personal experience with notching tubes is to run the drill as fast a possible without burning the hole saw out. When it catches it doesn't grab as much. When going slower I feel it comes to a halt and goes wrong.
I also worked out how to do smaller tubes in my drill press. Supporting bigger tubes at odd angles is a nightmare sending me back to the gig.
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PIC loading test
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And another test as a jpeg
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Another test with Google chrome
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Stop playing with yourself Jez
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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:icon_super: All work fine for me Jez.
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God,what a ball ache
I-pad didn't want to load pics on Birtys ....JPEG instead of jpg......bollix....
Loaded an app JPEG to PNG and,still wouldn't play ball.......
So loaded Google,Chrome instead of safari and,now the PNG file will load...... :icon_biggrin:
Apple sometimes are a pain..... All was OK a couple of months ago but there have been a couple of new updates that I have downloaded.......
Anyway the pics are just to show that Trailer Queens get muddy too.....that was Kirton..... :icon_super:
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A few cage updates......
Cage now out.......heavier than a hardtop :jpshakehead:
Made some cage work to hold the seats and harness. Harness is not at full stretch to the floor now...
Just got to turn the tack welds into decent welds and apply paint......and try to get the bigger back in without killing anyone :icon_super:
Hopefully some pics will follow.
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Cage looks mint..... Seats look painful. Lol
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Got padded covers ....but yeah, still rub the base of my butt......
Nice and light though........ :icon_biggrin: as if with all the heavy shit that matters now :hysterical:
How's 5 going?
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So this is called 'aircraft grey green' in a satin finish.......can't see the grey to be honest????
So just got to stop the 8274 from leaking and tis ready for Breakout :icon_super:
And maybe some beadlocks if I can sell another organ....
So what do ya'll think of my new paint.....? :icon_biggrin:
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That'll do
would've been fun at 7S last w/end bit parky mind
but the SAD would have been put on hold as we had sunshine
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How was 7s ????
No breakages this time?
Next job is to fix the effin lights on the Ram....... Headlamps are laughably pants, and they must have reacted to my shouting about them cos the beggars have stopped working altogether now.
Bad connection somewhere and some fool has been there and bodged up something.....
Kinda need lights at this time of year :jpshakehead:
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Most enjoyable don't think i'll ever get tired of that place
me as mr technical would say the bodge occurred on transition from LHD
the Patrol has candles for lights - not that that helps at all
just, can identify
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Just took delivery of a Plasma Cutter (C-Tec 30) and fired it up...... Will do 8mm Max so that'll do as I only go to 6mm to date.
So after years of getting covered in grey dust and burning the crutch out of numerous overalls
( I am left handed :jpshakehead:) it really is quite nice to use......
New and unused for a substantial saving :icon_biggrin: :icon_super:
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Have fun with that one Jez...cool bits of kit! :icon_super:
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I have saveral tourch sets i brought with me. Gas cost and bottle rentaal here is a pain so i ended up getting a cutter. Fantastic quick and clean. I do miss gas welding with coat hangers but the cutting is so much nicer.
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So thanks to Bisleywrangler aka Ian for advice and suppliers the '1 Tonne's' beadlocks are coming together.
Nothing exciting but here's a few pics of welded centres and beadlock inners and outer in 1 Tonne green.
The next step is assemble one and check bolt length needed also thickness of belts....hopefully 17mm as these are easy to get at the correct length.
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Good work Jez, I'm at a similar stage with mine, will you grind the weld flat before you mount the tyre?
I've borrowed an old tyre off a mate to mount and bolt on to check my welding is air tight before I pull my 37s off the wheels they are currently on..
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Welds are ground flat on the face of the beadlock and I tried to leave as much weld on the side but just dress it so that there were no rough edges and hopefully no leaks :icon_twisted:
Silicone on the inside of the beadlock should help or maybe eliminate leaks.
Read today on Pirate that some use silicone on the tyre bead before bolting down the beadlock.
Hopefully won't have to go that far.
Other advice is to torque to 20 ft lbs on the beadlocks. Some say only 10 ft lbs and some say as high as 30 ft lbs.
So it's a vague old science..... :icon_super:
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I have experience with 3 sets now, over tightening is not necessary they really don't need to be tight at all. I would say 10lb/ft is enough, but it's just a case of tightening evenly. Because of the number of bolts you need less clamping force on each one. The tyre seals on the inside not the beadlock ring side so no need for it silicone on the outer ring. Jez, i would use m10 x 50 with a washer front and back and a nylock nut, then tighten until the thread of the bolt protrudes from the nut a thread or 2. Well that works for my mates set, he had mudzillas.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Excuse the stupid question but I have to ask it.
is it possible to have beadlocks made on aluminium Dick Cepek DC2 ? :017:
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Thanks for that Ian.
Widjeeper
Again in my anorak research the guys ar JP mag took some alloys and the company they used machined the outer rim off and welded a beadlock edge.....with threaded holes already in it.
Then alloy outer ring was supplied for the beadlock
it can be done with Hummer H2 alloys like I have..... But not in UK.....looks to be an expensive job probably as much as buying street beadlocks over there.
Also read that on H2 wheels edges crack and threads get pulled through so all in all a bit of a Curits egg!
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So..... Beadlocks are happening, and I think I've got at least one relatively leak free for off raod use....
Wheels,are wider and with more offset that H2 wheels which are 5 3/4" Back space .
These are 4 1/2" with a bit more due to the replacement centre so just measured and
Truck is 5" wider....OH YES this puppy will be difficult to tip......
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Bloody hell Jez there tempting fate and TEMPTING fate
Truck is 5" wider....OH YES this puppy will be difficult to tip......
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not difficult to tip but the challenge gets harder
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It's only when you point to where you think I should go Tim that it all goes 'shape of the pear'
:hysterical: remember Breakout???
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Widjeeper
Again in my anorak research the guys ar JP mag took some alloys and the company they used machined the outer rim off and welded a beadlock edge.....with threaded holes already in it.
Then alloy outer ring was supplied for the beadlock
it can be done with Hummer H2 alloys like I have..... But not in UK.....looks to be an expensive job probably as much as buying street beadlocks over there.
Also read that on H2 wheels edges crack and threads get pulled through so all in all a bit of a Curits egg!
Thanks Jez,
Sorry for the delay to reply.
Another project has cropped up since I asked that question so it went straight to the back burner but when I saw Ezz tyre saying good bye to his rear wheel during the Clyro weekend that subject came back to the surface !
If it's possible I will have to study the case seriously but might not be for these coming months unless I work overtime every days off I have for the rest of the year. :die:
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http://www.quadratec.com/products/92803_5941.htm
These are what you want Chris, both beads are locked
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Thanks Ezz.
Very nice wheels but 5 of these + shipping and import tax/duty would cost between 2.5 and 3 Grand so I will keep my wheels for now. I checked the Pdf Instructions. I never thought that was that technical !! :017:
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Can't remember who but someone in the uk sells them, about £400 each,
I bet Dave at llama could get them for about that too..
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Staz are the dogs !!
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Staz are the dogs !!
Agree, but not sure they do a 5x5 tho..
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Ha ha ha bloody ha ha ha....... :hysterical:
All 4 beadlocks are on and looking good.......
As I said wide old girl now..... 86" bulge of the tyre to same the other side.....
And my garage doors??????
87" :hysterical: :hysterical: :steeringwheel: :icon_twisted:
Edit.....land now it's stopped monsooning I thought I would measure my trailer......
Exactly 86" where the bed stops and goes up at 45 degrees at the side....... :icon_biggrin:
Almost like I planned it.....
If you're using F250 snow fighter axles Ian you might be the same width........?
There will be no slipping through some of the trails bordered by trees at parts of Ribbo.
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Problem with the MOFOing trailer is the light pods !!!
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Think my light pods flip over enough so the spikes are out of range......
Or else I'll have to make a few mods so they come off.
I guess you are the same width or wider by a few inches with the 44s?
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Think my light pods flip over enough so the spikes are out of range......
Or else I'll have to make a few mods so they come off.
I guess you are the same width or wider by a few inches with the 44s?
Indeed...too wide need to make good.
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Ha ha ha bloody ha ha ha....... :hysterical:
All 4 beadlocks are on and looking good.......
As I said wide old girl now..... 86" bulge of the tyre to same the other side.....
And my garage doors??????
87" :hysterical: :hysterical: :steeringwheel: :icon_twisted:
Edit.....land now it's stopped monsooning I thought I would measure my trailer......
Exactly 86" where the bed stops and goes up at 45 degrees at the side....... :icon_biggrin:
Almost like I planned it.....
If you're using F250 snow fighter axles Ian you might be the same width........?
There will be no slipping through some of the trails bordered by trees at parts of Ribbo.
My axles are f250, 70" wms to wms so I'm going to be similar in width, little narrower I think but still bloody wide! I'll measure it this morning. Are you going to breakout?
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Hopefully.....all paid up, and ready......just got to bleed myself a clutch.....
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Hopefully I'll see you there, got to get mine through an mot first though as I have no trailer etc.
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Measured the width of my tyres tonight and like yours it's 86" front and just over 86 at the rear.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Brave man.....on the road with 40's and Beadlocks...... :icon_super:respect.....
I picked up one of my H2 alloys and a bead locked steel the other day......the difference is large....
I noticed on the paperwork I was burning today whilst tidying up that the inner and outer beadlock rings are about 40 kgs......
Still.....like I said .....might help to keep those wheels on the deck :hysterical:
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Yeah it might be a bit hairy driving but i'll get used to it [emoji23][emoji23]
I can't pick up one of my complete wheel/tyres, must be 50kg or so. With the weight of the axles there should be no rolling over problems!
But we'll see! [emoji51]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Jez have you got a direct link to the anti coning belts you bought?
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www.bearingboys.co.uk
And then click on to V belts and wedges
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What size did you get, would you say they are perfect for the job?
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B42 17mm 1067mm
Work well 4 cost me £23 or similar I think.....
As Ian said they work as anti-cone if you stick to 10 ft lb and hopefully keep the mud out....
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Tar very muchly youth
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http://www.quadratec.com/products/92803_5941.htm
These are what you want Chris, both beads are locked
What do you think of the Method 105 beadlock ? They are $145/wheel cheaper than the Hutchinson and they look good.
http://www.methodracewheels.com/collections/race-wheels/products/105-beadlock-machined
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Says they are lightweight......that's got to be a good thing :icon_super:
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Only single outer beadlock tho, but they look OK to me..
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They will still be spendy.... Cheapest ones I found were Allied at $236.54 each still£££££by the time they get here......
Just had mine sitting in the workshop for a week....... Got a slow one on one of them so stripped and dealt with this morning.......so close :hysterical:
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You've had a mare with getting them air tight, not finished mine yet, still got a bit of grinding and cleaning up before I can paint them, I'm hoping they are air tight first time but reading about your woes, I'm not so confident...
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Only single outer beadlock tho, but they look OK to me..
Excuse my ignorance here once again. Are you building your wheels with inner beadlock as well as outer?
Is it what's required to lower air pressure really low?
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They will still be spendy.... Cheapest ones I found were Allied at $236.54 each still£££££by the time they get here......
Just had mine sitting in the workshop for a week....... Got a slow one on one of them so stripped and dealt with this morning.......so close :hysterical:
Did you find the Method 105 beadlock at $236.54 ? Northridge got them for JK at $338.
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You've had a mare with getting them air tight, not finished mine yet, still got a bit of grinding and cleaning up before I can paint them, I'm hoping they are air tight first time but reading about your woes, I'm not so confident...
One was perfect straight off
Second needed a second go
The others two were acceptable but I've got a bit OCD with the front two being good....the two rears will stay up for 3 days and 5 days......
Apparently it's the cold lapping of a MIG weld that causes the leaks......it helps if you go back an inch or two to heat up where you left off.....
Alternatively don't let off......which when going round in circles is hard for an amateur like me......if you had an old hub and a mate to turn it .....'manumatic jig!!' Then that would help....
Or as some welding Nazi on Pirate said do em properly and tig weld them which avoids the cold lapping scenario........ :icon_twisted:
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They will still be spendy.... Cheapest ones I found were Allied at $236.54 each still£££££by the time they get here......
Just had mine sitting in the workshop for a week....... Got a slow one on one of them so stripped and dealt with this morning.......so close :hysterical:
Did you find the Method 105 beadlock at $236.54 ? Northridge got them for JK at $338.
No Allied Beadlocks are like the one myself and Ez and Ian are building or have built......basic steelies with an outer beadlock.
With single beadlock all day 5psi should be possible......
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5psi......please, atmospheric is the answer !!
Steps as follows..
Take MOFOing valve innerdes out..
Jack MOFOing truck up..
Take MOFOing valve innards and re-introduce to valve.
And you have optimum pressure to MOFOing tyre.
Release the jack and go play !!
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That sounds megga low,
At clyro last month I aired down to about 6 psi,(no beadlocks) hardly a noticeable bulge in the tyre but these treps have mega stiff side walls, anyway all was going well until I rolled back into a tree sump, this popped the tyre beads off, I'm not sure if the outer bead came off first and that caused the inner to part, what I'm trying to say is, even if I'd been running my beadlocks the tree stump might of pulled the tyre inner bead off,
That's why I like the spendy hutchenson rock monsters...
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TUT, TUT, TUT....... Staz my friend is the only answer !!
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So,all beadlocks hold air........
Last one was my oversight ..... I had some nifty 90 degree valve stems that bolt in.....
And the leak? Well it was because the valve wasn't bolted as tight as it should be.....
Just the clutch to bleed now :icon_super:
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Clutch bled, wheels nuts torqued......oops nearly forgot that bit.
Drove out of workshop.... :jpshakehead:
Well I did after I cut down the door weatherstripping both sides to give me
a couple of inches extra :hysterical:
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Does it fit on the 7' wide trailer?
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My Ifor Williams 177 is86" from edge of wheel track to other edge......had to make mods to get hinged lights out of way when loading though......disc cutter to the rescue :icon_twisted:
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In the YJ stakes is probably the only time I'll be skinnier than you Jez!
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So......let me bore you with tales of beadlocks.....
My welds held up at Breakout :hysterical: the leak down was OK although the one that had never leaked for 6 weeks in the workshop decided to have a hiss......front left......
All tyres off and cured now........ But a few mods.......I wasn't moving tyres on and off as Occupational therapy.......
The problem was losing the inner bead......WTF......they never tell you any of that on Pirate.....
BUT if you google 'Beadlock loses inner bead'
Oh my god what a world of hurt and billybob shenanigans ......just imagine if you had spent $260 per rim from Allied and as shit load more from other manufacturers and the billy b'stard leaks and burps and loses an inner bead......... :jpshakehead:
It seems Everyman and his dog has this problem.......some tyres are more prone to this than others and the newish 17" tyres are the culprit.......and Iroks are especially prone......
Guess what tyre I have.......???????
So the fixes are mad as a skunk as well.......RTV sealant of a very Spendy nature..... 3m window tape and stuff......
But the more you read the more this is only a temp fix....... That may last the day???
I am not revealing what I have done but I have a 2 stage plan of attack and the easy one has yet to be tried......but is done......just waiting for a payday at Yarwell to test as its only 18 miles away....if that doesn't work I have the second version of fix to do......
The problem will hopefully be seen if the pics load.
I have shown the H2 Hummer wheel as its easier to see the lines and I have the tyres back on the black beadlocks.......the measurement are the same so apply to both.
Thefirst pic is H.2 wheel
Pic2 is the width of the bead on the inner rim
Pic3 shows the width of the bead that could be retained 17mm
The Irok has a bead bundle of 22mm so is more than 1/2 way up the retainer to start so that why it comes off.
So there you go......
Only doing this now as I should be on a bike going through France......fuel stuff made me reschedule ferry to Spain instead so a few slack days to fill.
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I feel your pain Jez, I've almost given up on my diy beadlocks before they're even finished, painted and tried out on the jeep, I'm over £300 into them and ready to bin the lot,
A few folk I've spoken to with a similar set up that say they have had no problems with theirs, then I ask what psi they run, most say somewhere between 12 and 20 psi, what's the point in that, I've run my no beadlocks at about 10 for ages and never had a problem..
I'm thinking STAZ time :strum:
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I guess if I sell my H2 rims £200 (my mate came to pick them up after Breakout but I had to backtrack and hold onto them due to the uncertainty) then I am into the beadlocks for £200 . So not so bad just a good few months of R and D on my behalf......
Current fix is to make the tyres tighter on the rim...... So fessing up :icon_biggrin: here's what I did.
4 wraps of gorilla tape 2" wide to make the beadlock sit tight.......still got to test it out, but Pirate rednecks say it works.
Won't get a chance until July now but if that doesn't work then the final fix is to weld a 4mm steel rod around the inner bead on the rim at the required 22mm distance and to weld on the inner side of the rim to a. Make the tyre airtight for seating the bead and b. Give it a ramp to slide up...
That should work......
I have to say that with the Pirate recommended 4 wraps of Gorrilla tape I had to have my workshop compressor pumping out 125psi and it was a slow but finally very firm seating of the inner rim.
At the end of the day if that doesn't work I shall be binning any winter ideas of a 4 link rear and 3 link front and wadding the money to Staz ......then I could go back to a 5 3/4 backspace that worked well on the H2 rims.
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I can see that working.. Fingers crossed
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Just got an email back from John at Staz and 17x10 with a 5" backspace is $415 ..... Each
I now need to sit down and move away from the ' buy it now' button.......
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That bondo beadlock fix anit worth shiet !!!
Staz my friend, because they work.
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:iagree:
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What's the issue? Inner bead burping out air? The bead just needs seating, past that lip on the wheel. I have some super swamper's the beads are massive. Inner beadlock?
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They unseat in use that's the issue.....need 12 psi to stay on.... Otherwise burp air to 0 then lose inner bead......
Looks like the 4mm wire as an inner beadlock will cure it but only time will tell.
The good news is that none of us have spent the thick end of £2k .......on beadlocks.
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They unseat in use that's the issue.....need 12 psi to stay on.... Otherwise burp air to 0 then lose inner bead......
Looks like the 4mm wire as an inner beadlock will cure it but only time will tell.
The good news is that none of us have spent the thick end of £2k .......on beadlocks.
Oh I wish ....... Cough !!!
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And would do it again !!
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I think we're all heading there Peter but just at a very slow pace.......gotto fill those jam jars with enough loose change first
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Bite the pillow my friend, because to learn takes much more friction in the rear..... Alternatively you could completely ignore my experience because I have not been competitive for 5 years..... But I do know what works, allegedly !!
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Gorgeous rig, man. I can appreciate all the problems that emerge with a major build, you're killin' it!
Next trip to Colorado, look me up, we'll put that baby to the test!
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Thanks 88Toy.....almost tempting to ship my junk to Cororado and finish the build there .....all the suppliers I need are that part of the world.
And when I ship it back all scratched and used they'll never guess about all the new spendy parts that I paid normal $$ for as opposed to our Government inflated customs and excise £££££££
Got me thinking.... I need the back of someone's shop and use of tools ......I pitch my tent there for a few months. :icon_super:
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Right then.....at Breakout I had a fuel pump that was screaming like a mad thing......been getting that way for two years......
It's a YJ pump and sender and the same that used to be in the 20 gall US tank, only now in my small alloy 3 gall cell.....and behind my head it was really doing my ears some hassle. Cut out once at Breakout and then failed to start for a couple of seconds......time to replace......
I didn't even bother with Lighties as I enquirer a few years ago and I'm sure it was £200 or something stupid......
Anyway ordered from the states and a man from Yodel has just turned up......correct product and £85 plus £20 something postage so not too bad......
Just got to get a bigger tank made now.......
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so how big will that tank be?
US or UK gallons
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Bit like this :icon_twisted:
13.41 UK gallons......baffled inside.
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Bit quiet on the build front out there????
So here's my. New tank with slightly more space than the old 3 gall one.
Got a sump that hangs with a bout 10 litres in and a sight guage so I don't have to dip with an old stick :jpshakehead:
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Looking good. Did you get it built locally? I'd like to see what I could squeeze in to gain some space back and lose the big stock fuel tank that currently takes up all of my rear storage space. I think I could build a mock up out of thin sheet MDF for a fabricator to copy.
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Spencer at SM engineering.co.uk. Located unpronounceable in Wales......
Does great rally style stuff and classic race car stuff.
Did my little tank that was just there to complement the LPG but was too small for use after LPG went. The sump accommodates the standard sender and stops the pump sucking air.....internal are baffles at each end. I just drew up what I wanted and sent the sender and gasket so he could pressure test after building.
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James, What mileage you getting out of the standard tank whilst your driving it on the road..
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Poly. YJ tanks are 20 US galls,= 16.5 imperial galls if that's any help.
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I get around 200 miles out of the tj, works out around 16mpg.
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I'm not sure, I was paranoid about the gauge possible not working so just kept topping it up. I did realise the gauge was working ok on the way back from Wales so will give it a fill and see
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I was just thinking, if you go for a smaller tank, you'll be down to about 100 miles per tank, not the end of the world tho...
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Time to think about hours NOT MILES !!!!
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Yup. Got to agree with Peter ...
My small 3 gall tank would last for a couple of trips around CF. then back to the Ram for a top up.
Became old real quick.
New one should be good for two day weekend of fun......
Now..... Just to address the beadlock situation........ :hysterical:
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Now..... Just to address the beadlock situation........ :hysterical:
What's ya plan :strum:
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Well...... I did the gorilla tape fix as a knee jerk reaction after Breakout but I don't give it much hope.....
But 164cms of 4mm steel rod on each wheel to supplement the inner bead and I reckon I am good to go.
Monster welding project over the next few weekends.....
I reckon if I keep the weld on the inner side as a means of letting the bead slide up and over then the chances of that inner bead ever dislodging are minimal.
Sadly with the £to$ situation at the moment any idea of importing Staz from the US in addition to the 4 link front and rear mods will have to go on hold until the exchange rate improves.
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Mine are ready for paint, but I'm busy having a garage built and converting my existing one into a lounge...
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So if asked what I did this year?????
Effin beadlocks :jpshakehead:
Well I did the 6mm rod around one wheel and no it doesn't work as it's impossible to get tyre on....just spent some time with a tractor changing compressed air place trying tyre on from both sides......
NO NO NO NO :hysterical:
So my beadlocks are £400 worth of rim protectors at the end of the day......
Now I'm putting the H2 rims back on..... Narrower lighter and stuff.....
So anyone thinking of doing this think twice......
So when the exchange rate gets better it's Mr Staz.......emailed him on Sat and it's 5 to 6 weeks from ordering to delivery.......
Happy days :strum:
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I wasn't sure if you'd get the tyre on, mine are still waiting for paint..
Staz for me too I reckon
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You can pay extra to jump the waiting list at staz!!!
One week sir that's no problem ....
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EXTRA SIR!!!!!!
i would wait twice as long for a discount I am so tight.......
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TUT, TUT, TUT !!!
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So if asked what I did this year?????
Effin beadlocks :jpshakehead:
Well I did the 6mm rod around one wheel and no it doesn't work as it's impossible to get tyre on....just spent some time with a tractor changing compressed air place trying tyre on from both sides......
NO NO NO NO :hysterical:
So my beadlocks are £400 worth of rim protectors at the end of the day......
Now I'm putting the H2 rims back on..... Narrower lighter and stuff.....
So anyone thinking of doing this think twice......
So when the exchange rate gets better it's Mr Staz.......emailed him on Sat and it's 5 to 6 weeks from ordering to delivery.......
Happy days :strum:
I TOLD YOU !!!!
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Apologies, did not wish to sound condersending, but for me I only had Gasser (God rest his sole) but the ability to have hindsight is a wonderful (not forgetting cheap) experience..... some times, I miss pushing the enverlope.
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No worries Peter.......
I sometimes feel that I am at the forefront of billybob redneck envelope stretching........and failure..... :icon_biggrin:
At least that means that others ....llhopefully will not have to follow my route......
I guess we should of all had a think tank many moons ago to discuss what works and what is crap.....
Slowly ....but slowly all the things that we have discussed are finally coming to fruition......
But so many of us have taken the wrong turning along the way.......
Onward and upward........have I mentioned Unimogs recently :hysterical:
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But my envelope pushing was 8 years ago ( fooooook me!!), absolutely agree we need to pool ideas in the future projects.......BUT MY MOG WILL BE BIGGER THAN YOURS !!!
Just kidding my friend ...... ))))
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Cos I missed out on CF.....and cos it's quiet in 'Workshop'
Here's the plan.....
'1 Tonne' is going road legal. Basically ported steering box to give hydro assist as opposed to full hydro and hand brake on rear discs......
Looked into trans brake caliper and it's a mine field and likely to get expensive.......
As I am running front discs and calipers off a 3/4 ton Chevy on the rear I have monster braking.
But only hydraulic handbrake.........
Looked at all Wilwood stuff but they only do for .81" thick rotors ......and my rotors are 1.25" big feckers!
Well after a load of research it turns out Vipers had 1.25" rotors on the rear and brembo calipers and separate mechanical e brakes .
So now on the hunt........ Will report back later......
Footnote.......I know Cadillac rear with the mechanical e brake will fit but they are a bit marginal and I don't want to lose my front caliper on the rear set up.......
Have fun in the workshop Dastards :icon_super:
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Imagine the fecker coming towards you on the road :icon_super:
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Imagine what the tyres are going to sound like at speed!!!
:icon_eek:
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I started looking at building a driveline hand brake. By time I purchased a flanged output and matching drive shaft to mount the disc on the price was already really steep.
Would it be easier to replace the discs and get different callipers?
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Hello Wildwood,
I've been looking at callipers for thick rotors, want to replace Chevy S10 callipers with E-Brake callipers in a D44 FF kit. Although nearly every path eventually leads back to Caddy callipers (something I'm trying to avoid), one possibility is to use separate pair of handbrake only callipers such as these (http://www.tsmmfg.com/mb-7.html). Don't want to go T/C case brake as drive line to short. May end up swapping rotors. Interested in hearing what you find out.
Cuffy
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Good research Sir and they would be cheaper than recycled Viper parts.......
I'll dive back into the Interweb again and report back. :icon_super:
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Click if you dare !! (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unimog-404-BARN-FIND-VINTAGE-TRACTOR-LAND-ROVER-OFF-ROADER-UNIMOG-404-DOKA-/112135389748?hash=item1a1bca4234:g:JVMAAOSwCGVX2EvO)
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Rather nice :icon_twisted:
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So.......back in the heated workshop this weekend.......
Drilling the YJ box for hydro assist........ooooh the great stuff on the YouTube is amazing.....
NPT 1/4 stuff and taps and stuff oooh tis almost exciting...... The box will be hydro assist for a few ££
I did think spit the dummy and buy from PSC.......
$1,000 :hysterical:
How very dare they...... No pics yet but will try to show what I am doing......replacing all seals as well....(is that how you spell seals) :hysterical:
So here we go to get an MOT and do more events.....with rear brakes from tsmmfg for proper cable operated e brake for the MOT.
Now all we need is for the $ to dive under Trump so I can contact Mr Staz......
And I've just bought another motorbike and organised a trip to the edge of the Sahara next Sept.....
Got to do it Dastards ......only live once..... :icon_twisted:
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And I've just bought another motorbike and organised a trip to the edge of the Sahara next Sept.....
Got to do it Dastards ......only live once.....
so so true :icon_super:
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If you need any of those NPT taps if you haven't already done it then let me know as I bought a set for ARB locker airline plumbing.
Hydro-assist on the box seems like a good idea for me too, get some pics if you can fight the iPad and load them!
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Also very interested in this Jez, need full details please.
I've also had an email from STAZ. :strum:
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I got the gist of it from a you tube video that I'll go look for later. But Tis really easy and we could all do it with hand tools.
Here we go edit edit edit go and Google
Drilling your TJ steering box for hydro assist
Then the fist pic of you tube with Hydro assist in yellow across screen by a guy called Bleeping Jeep... Sorry can't post links for some reason......
Basics are to strip gearbox so all bits are out then drill and tap then rebuild kit that is just O rings and rubber seals and job done.
I reckon under £50 for taps and drills less if borrowed.
Hope mr Staz was positive with his reply?
I think this year I'll be making the '1 Ton' road legal and not a lot more.......unless the £ to $ changes and I can get some Staz wheels......
As I hinted I have got slightly addicted to motorbike trips abroad so might have to have a year out.
We'll see nothing is ever written in stone :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
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Yep mr STAZ was positive, wanted to know exactly what I wanted, back space, colour and stuff, he said about 6 weeks to manufacture.. I'd almost given up,
My diy beadlocks performed ok on Sunday, aired all 4 down to 8psi and they were still at 8 when I got home...
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It must be the difference in tyres then.
With Swamper Iroks 39.5" I was losing inner bead below 12 psi.
Glad they worked for you though
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So after being sensible...... :hysterical: and waiting for a replacement pitman arm puller , cos I burst the first one using it with the windy gun up at max........
I then used a Maps gas blow lamp to heat the pitman arm...... Not as good as oxy because you can't focus to a point and get the steel cherry red.....(used to have to do this with the Missus VW beetle wheel bolts back in the day and it always worked)
So no go and guess what I rogered another pitman arm puller.....this time fecked the threads .....
Tis off now by doing it the way I normally would have done it if I hadn't seen some wag on you tube doing a dismantle with no probs at all........yeah right....... :jpshakehead:
1mm disc slitter disc thing and careful not to roger the splines and it's off........
Was going to replace it with a humungeous drop version for the 1 Tonne steering system so no worries......
So loosed off a few things for the strip down tonight .......what could possibly go wrong..... :icon_twisted:
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Step away from the merlot FFS :)
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Happy New Year....
And bloody hell 'seduce my ancient foorwear' it has been over a year since a post.......
So new year project........
Adapt roll cage so I can use windscreen again......
4 link rear and 3 or 4 link front.......
But the big question is 'STEEL'
I have been plagiorisng Ruffstuff to get ideas and seems links should be (for the lowers anyway)
2" X .250" so that I guess is 50.8mm X 6.35 mm
None of the steel people I use like Metals for U or similar seem to have this.....any ideas guys.???
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the stuff your after is CDS mechanical tube
used these guys
https://www.steelexpress.co.uk/shop/product/mechanical-seamless-tube/
They have a branch in Peterborough
also the cheapest about
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Brilliant....thanks.
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no more leaf springs :icon_sad: you used to be cool :hysterical:
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:hysterical:
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:steeringwheel: :hysterical: I am still thinking it over......and over and over....
There will probably be no weight benefit.....maybe a penalty .... ?? Flexing might be better..... Ride has got to be softer.... I can extend wheelbase again from 105" to 118" and lower it 3"
It will have to be on coils with shocks as coilovers will be ££££££.
Decision decisions........
Is it worth sacrificing the Cool Factor :strum:??
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if its any help at all speak to James sunderland
he has "redone" the long arm on the LJ with johnny joints and strong tube - no idea what size or what strength etc
he advises mucho strong but not sure for tons
the only think is that it must be ready for breakout - no excuses will be accepted
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Thanks yer Lordship......tis what I'm aiming for.
But I know if I go the full monty on 3/4 link then it's a year at least of weld fu and industrial strength language in the workshop......and it will be the same vehicle but subtly different.....
However if I email Mr Staz for his beadlocks then tis a done deal and I'll make Breakout......
And I'll never lose a bead again and I'll be able to run 5psi.... or as Mr IOM would say ......'just pull the effin core and run atmospheric'........
Mmmmn. Think I've just made a decision......l
And I'll still be ' vinyl analogue and according Mr Bubba ......Cool!!!!!'
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Makes sense to me Jez..
I run at 5 psi, never lost a bead but I’m a lot lighter than you..
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Makes sense to me Jez..
I never lost a bead but I’m a lot lighter than you..
Its all the merlot :hysterical: :hysterical:
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Saw this and thought of you :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Big-block-V8-engine-and-gearbox-complete-Cadillac-8-2-litre/152848057379?hash=item2396744423:g:vHgAAOSwNchaSM-w
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OMG. :icon_twisted: tempted as always...... And it's close..... Might have to have a bid on this..
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OMG. :icon_twisted: tempted as always...... And it's close..... Might have to have a bid on this..
pretty sure rick pewe from 4wheeler had one of these in a flat fender :icon_super:
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Yes I remember the Jeep..... It was a 455 Oldsmobile......maybe he changed to the 502 later. :hysterical:
Plenty of cams and stuff available to give those 502 a lazy lope......
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do it
you have the skills to make this work
admittedly will end up a bit spendy but you have the down stream parts to make it work
but after breakout
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I think I'll go with this but as you say after Breakout....
In the meantime I'll do the billybob redneck thing of bolting the engine in a frame on the garage floor to make sure it's a goer.....and piss off the neighbours..... :hysterical: on open headers....
Also just seen a 454 that's a runner...... 2018 is full of evil temptations......
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Cummings 6tb you know you want to
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2021137661452400
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Oh dear .... :jpshakehead:I also have one of those bookmarked with a 5 speed gearbox behind it...
I guess you can all tell I got bored over the break and dived headlong into Pirate and fuelled the synapses with some quality wines.
Having the Ram I have been researching 500 bhp and 800 ft lbs for a while......can be done for about £500 ......the weak spot is the gearbox.......
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6bt zj stop it you bad man.
would need some bigger axles and gearbox but do have the transfer case :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
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1 tons should be ok, although 40's might put them at the limit.....with all that torque...
Axles originally came from a Chevy diesel Dually....but with 31s and only 150 bhp.
Gearbox 3500 will get toasted....
Klune underdrive 4:1 will survive
Dana300 will last one outing :hysterical:
A 4500 and a Chev transfer case is needed.......
Could be a year or more collecting bits!
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suddenly you are cool all over again :icon_super:
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found you a tcase
http://www.usedtruckspares.com/daf-gs-4x4-transfer-box-ex-military
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Thank you good sir.....
Found this on Pinterest so had to do a screen grab
Tis what's in my mind ai tell you......
Cummins with compounds and a stack through the hood...... :icon_super:
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And while my coffee percolates.....
There is a geezer who does Cummins into Lard rovers .....he uses the Cummins Daf ZF 5 speed and has an adapter to mate to a Landrovers transfer case....
Do 110 s and the like have centred diffs at the rear.......I think not somehow.
That Daf transfer case is a monster.....looks like PTO hydraulics as well. :icon_twisted:
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thinking is a bad idea :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
where did you get you klune ?
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Imported from the US in 2004....
Used to be in the first YJ behind an AX15 and a flipped Dana 300
Now behind a NV3500 and a regular twin sticked Dana300.
I think they are no longer made due to all the different variants of Atlas that do the same job without the weak link of the original Dana300
Works well in the rocks :icon_super:
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Greg at High Impact sells the Klune.
Still in business it seems.....
Also a lunchtime Google reveals that the ZF 5 speed found behind the Daf 6 BT Cummins trucks will bolt straight to the Klune......after that Chev 205 or 203 or Dana 300 or whatever......
Just need time and money now :hysterical:
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the same place as that tcase sell complete cumming ZF combo's :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
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A guy in scotland has a DAF 6 BT Cummings in a cj7 zf box to 300
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Over here it seems the ZF was for big white delivery Daf trucks and 2 wd.
But was available in US as a .4 wd behind Ford 7.2 diesel 350 etc
The tail housing can be bought for $ 300 but. you have to strip the box and replace the main shaft ...another $300 plus the cost of a rebuild....
The fact that the Scottish gent has a Dana 300 behind throws up some hope so .....Ill keep looking....
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You bidding on the big block Jez? Only ask as a mate might do and don't want 2 birtys trying to outbid each other
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No mate...go for it ....
I'm exploring the Cummins route :icon_super:
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Diesel’s for tractors and lorrys
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:gay-flag-28:
Rolling coal and using more fuel than your Prius saves......
Or something along those lines......
Just reckon a Cummins flattie on 1 Tons rolling on 40's might just brighten up the off road scene in Lardy obsessed Blighty.....
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Good man
Dark sky's here we come :icon_super: :icon_super:
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No mate...go for it ....
I'm exploring the Cummins route :icon_super:
Don't forget you will need air suspension to hold up 500kg of engine
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Had a thought about this :hysterical:
I reckon that I'll have to have a front axle way in front .....like the pic I posted. To allow for a deep engine and sump.....and air bags......
Trouble is the more I research the more of a major build it becomes......until you just start researching 4 X 2 or 6x2 rectangular steel and start with your own çhassis design.......
Probably the best way .....at least I could keep what I have, running, until there is a completed çhassis and engine waiting for axles :hysterical:
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Maybe a chassis from a Nissan Patrol GR/GU would be a good place to start. (LWB).
Just a thought.
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You could do a Mid engine 101 style :icon_twisted:
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Evening Dastards been 11 months so here's a pic to see if the system is still working
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Oooh that worked.....system doesn't like all the pics at once then....
So..... I've been working on the cage so it can have a screen and it's easy to get in and out compared to how it was....
All tacked up and ready to lift out for finish welding and paint....
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Also adapted the screen hinges so removal of screen can be done in a few mins.....you can spot the dents and the cracked screen.....I'm not easy on these puppies off road. So better 'off' in my case ....being as the 1 Tonne is high and flexy the screen does hit things so I've made it part of the rig for the Woosies if I ever get to sell the old girl.
I'm well pleased that the cage...... follows the line of the Bulkhead and screen.......obvious really but a major ball ache to get right in the real world.......
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And one for the 'welding nazis' the joins were done with solid rod to sleeve the cuts .....
Basically 1/2 inch of weld supports 1 ton so allowing for a 5" circumference and two massive plus/ rosette welds that equals about 12 ton per join......
Amazing what you learn when you do City and Gulids welding qualification......shame my welds still look like shit.......
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Sooooo are you sure you don't want to take it racing :steeringwheel: :97:
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Coming to cheapfest mext year then 15th anniversary.
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Red mist might descend if allowed to do more mph off road.....happy days...
Yes I will be at Cheapfest.......just got to thieve a trailer off the Dids :hysterical:
Only joking.....
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Like the ZZR aint enough :hysterical:
I had the "pleasure" of taking my mates ZZR for an MOT for him a fortnight back, cold grey damp day on new tyres :banghead:, rode it like miss daisy on the way there, a little more relaxed on the way back, couldn't have been in the summer could it :97:
Looks like much thought has continued to flow through the truck mate, always evolving :icon_super:
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Borrow it on a summer day.....they're epic.....and Like 'Spinal Tap' they go to 11 (11,000 rpm)
Have to confess that the Tuono has moved on to be replaced by an RSV4 RF........oooh yes...
201 bhp and 70 kg lighter than the ZZR
Now at least I can see where I'm going behind the fairing down the Bentley back straight at Snetterton....
And if it wasn't for anti wheelie and traction control, I don't think it would be rideable by this mere mortal.....
Happy. days... :icon_super:
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You should treat yourself to some new tyres as well :003:
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Borrow it on a summer day.....they're epic.....and Like 'Spinal Tap' they go to 11 (11,000 rpm)
Have to confess that the Tuono has moved on to be replaced by an RSV4 RF........oooh yes...
201 bhp and 70 kg lighter than the ZZR
Now at least I can see where I'm going behind the fairing down the Bentley back straight at Snetterton....
And if it wasn't for anti wheelie and traction control, I don't think it would be rideable by this mere mortal.....
Happy. days... :icon_super:
Traction control was on full the other day & it was in wuss mode, there's good chance I might get to ride it next year, my mate has finally had his first new knee done today, should be having the other done around springtime :icon_twisted:
RSV4 RF ….. happy days indeed mate, once a biking nut hippy, always a biking nut hippy :icon_super: :icon_super:
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Ah ha you were riding the Gen 2 model then .....they can be dynoed and ECU rewritten for,an easy 205 bhp......
Mate has run one at Elvington....(straight line speed event) and had 203 mph out of one.......
Oooh yes :steeringwheel: :icon_super:
Anyway better get back to Jeeps before that all get upset..... :strum:
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And I thought my Blackbird was quick, that baby just felt so smooth & easy to ride, could be going very quick without realising it, 200 MPH is a bit mindboggling though :icon_eek:
Nah, nobody's reading this mate :hysterical:
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Those tyres look super aggressive Donk!
Shame about import and stuff....sadly that's why I had to go for 39.5" as opposed to 42" was a major ££££increase to get the larger ones in......
Reckon the future is second hand Unimog tyres that all seem to be 40-44 in an agricultural pattern.
Also found a place that will make the 20" rims in your chosen PCI....
Unless you're rich and get Staz !
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And I thought my Blackbird was quick, that baby just felt so smooth & easy to ride, could be going very quick without realising it, 200 MPH is a bit mindboggling though :icon_eek:
Nah, nobody's reading this mate :hysterical:
Or stalking you :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:
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And I thought my Blackbird was quick, that baby just felt so smooth & easy to ride, could be going very quick without realising it, 200 MPH is a bit mindboggling though :icon_eek:
Nah, nobody's reading this mate :hysterical:
Or stalking you :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:
Bugger ..... Has that restraining order run out already Dags :hysterical:
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Jez, is it called the one tonne because of the weight of all that tubing :icon_biggrin:
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How about these instead then, already in the country.
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Oooooo 44” boggers, :strum:
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Mmmm nice boggers , shame I've got 18" rims..... Helps avoid temptation :hysterical:
The weight of the cage is mental..... It take two determined people to lift it off.....
I usually use my trailer straps to haul it to the ceiling and then drive out :icon_twisted:
Got to do this in a couple of days to finish weld and spray some paint......
Got some metal flake silver (60's Beach Buggy type paint) it will make a change from green everywhere.
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Jez, take no notice of Donk, he’s a sod for making folk part with cash, he sent me a link a few weeks ago and within days I was £1200 lighter and the owner of 4 new boots.
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Eeeerrrrrr they are well suited, Jez made me buy a new exhaust for my trusty CBR a while back, bugger sent me links to shiny things & so I was compelled to part with £££, granted not £1200 but he would if he could have :hysterical:
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Oops forgot about that Gaz......
Good exhaust though eh?
And to make matters worse Morocycles Direct In Watford sent me a mind bender......
Up to £1,800 off rrp and 0% Apr with £199 deposit on all Kawasaki bikes.....
Supercharged 200 bhp H2 SX included.......
Get thee behind me Satan......
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OK, in your defence mate, the zorst was probably the best thing I have done to the bike, closely followed by heated grips :icon_winkle:
Up to £1,800 off rrp and 0% Apr with £199 deposit on all Kawasaki bikes.....
Supercharged 200 bhp H2 SX included.......
Get thee behind me Satan......
In the words of Ozzie ... Satan laughing spreads his wings .... Oh Lord yeh ..... :icon_super:
Buy it, buy it now, you know you want to, just do it :hysterical:
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So very correct....
Only live once :hysterical:
Just booked some more track days for 2019.... Cadwell and Snetterton.....on the RSV4
Oooh yes......
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Well Dastards ....
There is a Jeep shaped hole in my heart and an effin great space in my Mancave..... :hysterical:
Sat May 25th I sold the 1 Tonne to a Romanian guy who's shipped it back to his place in Romania...
Guy obviously had some cash as he collected on a 'Rose Gold wrapped Yamaha R1' not my sort of bling but there you go.....
The Jeep went on a transporter .....a severely overloaded transporter :hysterical:2.5 Ducato thing.
So 23 years of Jeeping and 9 years of the 1 Tonne...... I have to say apart from meeting you guys and having a blast the enjoyment for me has been learning new skills.....Mig and Tig and various metalwork things and building the 1 Tonne.......
But 7 outings in 9 years kinda spelt out the way things were heading.....
A love affair with Motorbikes and foreign trips and track day shenanigans have kinda taken over...
I have been slowly selling stuff .....a list is on here and also on eBay as here seems too quiet so go have a look as there's pictures there :hysterical:
I'll drop in and annoy from time to time if there's anyone in......
Might bring some shit to flog in the Ram at Cheapfest if you'll have me :steeringwheel:
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Once a Dastard, always a Dastard mate :icon_super:
I entirely get where your coming from Jez, Horsery & Capri matters have taken over from the Jeep, but never say never :icon_winkle:
The old adage of Just Empties Every Pocket was written my someone who never restored a classic car & or owned / supported having a horse & accompanying rugs (horse has bigger wardrobe choice than me) & a bloody lorry to transport it !!!!
Don't be a stranger & enjoy the bikes mate :icon_super:
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Shame it's gone mate, also a shame I couldn't buy it :010:
In other news your knowledge is being questioned on face book :hysterical: what shall I tell him?
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Funny old world ....you try and help people???? And still they lack the brain to use the google search facility......
Happy days guys