Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: ikebaddog on September 08, 2016, 04:36:00 PM
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OK Birty's, my new problem is this.... Just got back from a pukka weekend on Salisbury plains, left my 1998 TJ for a couple of days and now it won't start, suspect the immobiliser is fooked. The orange key symbol on the dash comes on, goes off, and then comes back on when I switch the ignition on on, motor spins nicely but will not fire, engine bay did get flooded, and I had a misfire problem when on the plains, but drove it home the next day 150 miles no probs at all, now three days later this!!!!
I am seriously considering some petrol and a box of matches, help please!!!!!
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You may be right
Taken from my owners handbook for my 1999 TJ:
Smart Key Immobilizer
The immobilizer system prevents unauthorized operation of the vehicle by disabling the engine. The system will NOT allow the engine to start unless the vehicle electronics recognise the signal from the ignition key. If the system does NOT recognise the signal from the key, the vehicle will start and run for 2 seconds and then shut off.
If the Smart Key light illuminates during normal vehicle operation, it indicates a fault in the system which may cause the vehicle not to start at the next ignition cycle.
Sorry I'm not the bearer of better news :-(
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Plan of action is to remove ecu, dry out with a compressor and refit, fingers crossed, if that doesn't work, what's the best/cheapest option?
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Update...... Spoke to lighthouse Jeep, opinions there are that it won't be the ecu, more like dizzy or fuel pump problem, had a quick look last night and noticed that the fuel gauge is not moving at all, with ignition on! Now either someone has syphoned about £50 worth of petrol, or the two must be connected? Will look for wiring from fuel pump and sender unit, maybe a bad connection somewhere?, also I have no pressure or fuel in the fuel rail when I depress the Schraeder valve.
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Can you hear the fuel pump working as it primes itself? If not then check for blown fuses. You could use a spare battery and apply direct 12v power to be fuel pump just to confirm operation
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
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Fuel pump is not working! Neither is the fuel gauge nor the Voltmeter, all fuses are ok, I believe that the two gauges are controlled by the ECU, as is operation of fuel pump relay ( inoperative ) and ASD relay ( also inoperative ), the fact that I cannot get fuel gauge, voltmeter and fuel pump to work ( Battery is fully charged ) points to a bad ecu, I believe, however before I go to the expense of getting one from the States, has anyone got any other checks I should carry out?
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Are the relays faulty? Check for power to them and swap them for others. I had total meltdown of the ASD system and a 'No Bus' fault simply from a short to ground where the crank sensor wire had moved and melted against the exhaust manifold. I wouldn't suspect ecu as the most likely problem
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both relays have voltage to the positive side of the coils, I believe that the ecu provides the negative to lift the relays??, have swapped relays over, I keep going back to the fact that the fuel gauge and the voltage meter no longer work, they did before, now both of these are ecu controlled and neither work with ignition on, they should do, but they don't move.
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There is a way of testing the gauges built in.
With the key in the ignition, but off, hold the odometer reset button and turn the key to the on position. Keep holding the button and all the gauges and lights should test individually.
This link is for a Rubicon, but it is the same on my 99 TJ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obbOb_CpZNY
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The no gauge, no start issue has been just on 97 TJs that I'm aware of so far. The no gauge issue seems down to the PCM loosing the 5V supply which supplies most, if not all of the engine sensors. I presume the 5V is also used for the communication between the PCM and cluster which would explain the loss of gauges.
The 5V supply (ignition on) from the PCM can be checked by back probing the connectors at the PCM with a pin or sticking a pin into these wires.
Pin A17 - Orange wire at the grey C2 connector.
Pin B31 - Violet/Orange at the white C3 connector.
If you have no 5V supply you could try supplying 5V to those wires by using the output from a USB car charger.
I'm not sure how similar the 98 PCMs are to the 97 but they do seem about interchangeable from the pin outs. This thread from Jeepforum.com shows the cause and fix for a 97 PCM, not sure if a 98 PCM will be identical though...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/1997-jeep-wrangler-sport-not-starting-2901058
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I sent my PCM to the states to have the immobiliser requirement removed
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Greenjeep, do you have a link to the company you used?
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Greenjeep, do you have a link to the company you used?
These are the guys I used, remember to take the ring around the ignition barrel off before refitting the pcm/ecu, otherwies it self learns there is a ring and locks you out....
http://sosdiagnostics.com/Chrysler.html
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Well, I've managed to get the Jeep to the garage of choice, now to sit back and await the quote!!!!!!!!
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It's not the SKIS system. If it was, the engine would fire up then cut out after a second.
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Update!!!!! seems it's the crankshaft sensor....happy days !!!!
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Happy days, seems that blaming the ECU / PCM happens a lot more often than they actually go wrong.
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Well after all the worry and stress, it was after all, just the Crank sensor.....Thanks to Terry at A1 Chrysler, top man!