Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: Bubba on January 17, 2010, 05:33:50 PM
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opinions please would be very helpful
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This is how I understand it.. (If Ive got the right meaning of the question)
31" tyres 3.73 gears
33" tyres 4.11 gears
35" tyres 4.56 gears,
33's on 4.11 gears was just right, 35's on 4.11's are just ok, like running 31's on stock gears but 4.56 would be much better.
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sweet that was my understanding
i think 4.11 and true track is the the sweetest harmless way of gaining extra traction....?
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IMO definately.. a great compromise between full lockers and none..no fuss no extras, dont know its there till you want it and not too much strain on shafts etc
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Bubba you beat me to asking the question only cause I had to walk the dog :003:
Dodster, glad you popped up, were your ears burning this afternoon ? You are the only person I know who has been down this route with an auto :icon_winkle:
Just a pinch more detail for folks, as the rear diff pinion bearing is protesting, it would look to be the ideal opportunity to think about a re-gear with true trac limited slip diffs front & rear on our 98 TJ.
Not going to go down the locker route as rightly or wrongly I dont want to overstress the otherwise standard driveline.
Its a 3 speed auto which has always been entertaining going down hill to say the least, made worse by the fitting of 31's. I appreciate that as it is an auto its never going to have the engine braking of a manual but want to improve it to a less bum twitching level.
Think I am going to stick to 31's so I dont have to go down the swing out spare carrier route, so would 4.10 be enough or 4.56 be the best / too much ?
Currently doing 60 mph its doing about 2100 rpm. Anyone know what fitting 4.10 or 4.56 would do to this ?
Rednex seems to be the favorite place (do they have a website ?) at the mo to have the work done but any experiences of other places would be appreciated.
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Hiya Phil :icon_winkle:
Was suprised to find out today that the rear diff on ours is an open diff, thought all TJ's had a LSD as standard ???
Just founf this, 4.10 seems to be about right then yeh ??
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/rpmchart.html (http://jeephorizons.com/tech/rpmchart.html)
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I'm not sure if mik is still about but i had a similar conversation with him.
4.56 were recommended for 35's unless I liked rockcrawling in which case they would be good for 33's.
4.56 would be too much for 31's..IMHO.
Hey gaz, I dint know that about the diffs being open I just thought mine was shot.. :icon_rolleyes:
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i think 4.11 is where the sweet spots at but i is a retard
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It's prudent to stretch a gear with Automatic as opposed to going deeper on manual.
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Phil
I was surprised too, but I am reliably told by Kev that there was no LSD set up on ours when he had the pumpkin off today :icon_eek:
Do you think Rednex is no more ?
Peter
Pardon my mechanical numptiness, are you saying go with 4.10 for the auto or 4.56 ?
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I heard, maybe a rumour, that Mik had hung his spanners up..but rednex could live on with others at the helm..? Worth a phone call tmrw.
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that was my understanding
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MIK is now in Portugal I believe with his KTM Enduro business.
Flash don't overcook the gearing it will rev it's brains out and drink the petrol!!!!!
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Think I am going to stick to 31's so I dont have to go down the swing out spare carrier route, ...........
Have you seen this adaptor from LLama4x4?
(http://www.llama4x4.com/userimages/jjsparespacer.jpg)
http://www.llama4x4.com/page7.htm (http://www.llama4x4.com/page7.htm)
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Please don't tell me thats an adapter for a rear mounted 33...
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no its a stileto for a horse
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Well I did the math (and I still think that should have and S on the end)
The calculator says that 4.10 is the gearing for 33s and 4,56 is for 35s
So..... many years ago I regeared for 33s with 4.56 and I loved it with a manual and I could travel using 4th and 5 th at most times around town and roundabouts etc. knowing I have gone deeper with the gears than necessary then I changed to 35s and this is the right tyre for the right gearing? OH NO! you are now in the same territory as a standard YJ or TJ on 31s with standard gearing IE 5th is just that bit too much of an overdrive! Its the weight and I guess the lack of aerodynamics.... OK forget that its the weight.... If you want sprightly performance on 35s go 4.88.... its the deepest you can go on a Dana30 front anyway :icon_super:
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Right then, In summary, 4.10 gearing for 31's & true trac limited slip diffs front & rear it is then.
Now then, where can I get this done ?
All options considered, as we are in Worcester, somewhere midlands based would be prefereable but not essential.
Contact details would be mighty helpful & I can then start making some phone calls to spend some monies :003:
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You beat me to it but below is the reply I was typing while you posted:
I have 33s with 4.10 gearing on an XJ auto and it's pretty good on everything except steep descents. I've always been able to control it using brakes carefully but it's not the text book way to drive. In mud it's probabbly better than deeper gears because it gets the wheel speed up.
I loved 4.10 gearing with 31s though and am with Bubba that it's a real sweet spot. My current setup struggles on some of the long, steep motorway inclines in France when I'm loaded up with 2 weeks worth of camping and holiday gear.
Like Wildwood said, it's not just the tyre diameter increase but the extra weight and drag of a bigger vehicle with skid plates etc. I'd like 4.88 for 33/35s really, I could cope with keeping motorway speed down a bit and the 4.0 doesn't seem to mind revving a bit anyway.
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Coventry Transmissions
St Agathas Road
Coventry
CV2 4DX West Midlands
Tel: 024 76635054
Deep pockets are required apparently
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I've heard good reports via the Landcruiser forum about:
Midland Transmission Services Ltd
Midland House
Hayes Lane
Lye
Stourbridge
West Midlands
DY9 8RD
sales@gearbox-mts.com
Telephone: 01384 424823
Fax: 01384 422819
http://www.gearbox-mts.com/axels-and-differentials.html (http://www.gearbox-mts.com/axels-and-differentials.html)
One of the guys on the LC forum recently had a re-gear done by them and was pleased with the result. The LC guy supplied all the parts though.
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Cheers Pete,
Have dropped em an e-mail.
Had a quote already from Offroad MDG :icon_eek:
If all the same as that one, operation re-gear has been black balled by SWMBO, fingers crossed we can get it done a good bit cheaper :jpshakehead:
Not heard back from EDM yet.
Will try & ring the place in Coventry tomorrow that Phil suggested, always assuming I chatge my sodding mobile DOH
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Sell it and buy a JK??
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BTW Gaz, you can install a manual switch to hold the torque converter lockup for your downhill stuff, have a link somewhere detailing it.
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Try Steve at FTE. His bloke has been doing axles for Santa Pod Guys for decades and now just does stuff for Steve for cash as he is 'retired' he's done 4 axles for me and all have been great. Only down side is he will only work on the axles off the vehicle. So you have to strip, ship, collect and reassemble....worth it tho save you a packet.....unlike other people who also have ''Initials" :icon_super: NNUC Never Knowingly Undercharged.... Just my opinion of course.
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Cheers for the info, that would be an option if I had the facilities & the know how to remove the blighters but sadly I have neither :icon_redface:
Looks like I shall be ringing a few places at lunch time, fingers crossed.
Hope its not a case of NNUC :003:
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Just to tempt you even more I just dug out the figs.
In Sept I took the Dana 30 off the YJ and took it to Steve. He had had a rebuilt ARB sitting around for a few years that I bought for £300 and his axleman charged £200 to remove my lockright locker and fit the ARB, I am sure his labour charge (cash no vat) would not have been much more if he had had to change ring and pinion and remesh and shim to tolerances.
I guess if you get the prices of the components and rebuild/fitting kits you can accurately estimate the final cost.
Just don't like the thought of a fellow Jeeper paying over the odds (my hippy philosophy showing through again.)
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just out of intrest why did did you change from the lockright to arb?
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aren't lockright a little harsh in use on the road? ( if i remember correctly)
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aren't lockright a little harsh in use on the road? ( if i remember correctly)
Yes....
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It's all about control :icon_winkle:
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Lockright in the rear will improve your driving.... (or kill you) joking! Just makes you smoother on the gas and if you put your foot in it halfway round a roundabout it will bite back. I've got used to it after 8 years....
The front however....... On a YJ the dissconect vacuum thing helps but it does mean that the shafts are turning the whole time and the prop which is VERY thin 'cos of the exhaust proximity is spinning and this is turning the transfer case in 2 wheel drive and spins up the chain.....blah blah ..... so in short order you will roger your ujs on the prop and stretch the chain in the 231 transfer case and you can hear that? AND its a bitch to turn tightly offroad 'cos the lockers make you plough straight on.So that was the end of my success at trials!!
I deliberately didn't go with ARBs 'cos I'm a tight fisted bolshy hippy bastard that wasn't going to put over priced troublesome Ozzie shit in his Jeep just cos everyone else told me I should so lockrites all round so to speak and it went everywhere with little skill from me but not very accurately! BUT I saved money!!!!!! OR DID I???
After replacing the prop and UJs and rebuilding the transfer case I put a 2 low in the 231 so 1 more pull back of the lever from 4 low and you are in 2 low and can turn....worked well. but I still had everything spinning so Warn free wheeling hubs and yes cos I was breaking the small UJs a LOT I went with chrome moly warn shafts and bigger UJs..... prob solved ££££££
Next I wanted more control and couldn't affford an Atlas... So I got myself a Dana300 and a flip over kit from the US with twin stick changer....
Took me 2 years to get around to all this and then I wanted more control in the rocks and not just 4 to 1 so I imported a Klune underdrive and as an aside got an NV3500 cos I had rogered the box so with the Klune and the dana and the NV with its 4 to 1 first I have transfer ratios of 2.6 or 4.0 or compound of 10.4 to 1 that is a crawl ratio with 4.56s of 190 to 1 when ya normal YJ would be about 35 to 1 on factory axle ratios. Goes brilliantly on the rock with the hand throttle, makes me look like I know what I'm doing!!! However the twin stick idea is a failure cos the Dana suffers from windup so you cant shift on the fly like an Atlas!!!!!! Aaaaarrrrgggghhhh!!!! I can do front digs with front axle only but only if I shift into that from the start.... so OK but no cigar. and I can't knock it into rear wheel drive whilst in fwd for the same reason.... Nearly there now ...... so that was the reason for the change to the ARB so I could turn tighter again..... i did have onboard air already so some light at the end of the tunnel.
So rather than doing all this piece meal cos I like development and being different and 'economical'
If I had ponied up for ARBs and an Atlas first off I could have saved myself an awful lot ofgrief and swapping around of bits ......but I have enjoyed the journey so far and the industry has changed a lot and new parts are available.
If money was not a question I would start again as follows if I was just starting....
Spool at the rear can't beat 'em
ARB at the front
Atlas 3 speed box
Job's a good'un :icon_super:
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If money was not a question I would start again as follows if I was just starting....
Spool at the rear can't beat 'em
ARB at the front
Atlas 3 speed box
Job's a good'un :icon_super:
I'm with WEDGIE the hippy WOOD in-fact my Buggy has something like this setup...
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Hhhmm.
This isn't going as well as I had hoped.
Rednexx e-mail addy is bouncing, presumed no more as suggested, places in Coventry & Stourbridge don't do this sort of thing, had one NNUC quote that SWMBO has said would be well on the way to a bloody good 2 weeks all inclusive holiday in the Caribbean & a quote to come from EDM.
Been looking round to see about sourcing the bits but a bit confused by finding that when the pinion bearing problem was diagnosed it was an open diff with no clutch packs.
Thought I would check up with Jeep UK to see what it should have who confirmed from the VIN number that we have a Dana 44 with trac lock but no LSD, confused ? From my web searching a jeep trac lock should be a LSD with clutch packs or am I reading it wrong, who knows ?
A bit more research (cheers Doc) would suggest that it should have a Dana 30 front low pinion & a Dana 44 Tack lock LSD in the back. Not an issue if we are changing but at the current quote level its gonna be a fix the current diff I think & start saving :icon_sad:
Confused & frustrated of Worcester
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I would estimate you're being quoted £800 to a grand per axle.
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That is not a all inclusive caribbean holiday price or at least one I would consider!!!!
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If ya get a good deal on an ARB and pay £200 for labour to fit and extras for the ring and pinion and bits and oil I reckon £800- £1000 is a good deal (as Mike said above) especially if you 'know' the quality of the guys work.
A full spool for the Dana 44 rear is $250 so there's a saving there and every car park will forever sound like a chase scene from Starsky and Hutch :icon_super:
Going this route and getting/bullying some Birtys to help you on the axle strip (for FTE) could see you done and dusted for £1500 ish.... :icon_biggrin:
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Well your both right :003: :icon
Mike, MDG £2,350 inc VAT
Peter, I plead guilty to SWMBO exaggerating, make that half a week :003:
Probably being overoptimistic but was thinking £1500 tops :icon_rolleyes:
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ring shelly transmisions eagle street w/hampton you may need to suply but i know they have done jeep work
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In the words of the hobbit...... noted :003:
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With a view to buying the parts & getting someone else, like Shelley to fit them for example, the nice man at Eatons has given me the following part numbers for the true tracs;
The Truetrac part number for the front Dana 30 is 912A585.
The Truetrac part number for the rear Dana 44 is 913A590.
On top of this I am told that the Truetrac is independent and does not include the ring and pinion or any installation components.
So then, do the ring & pinion parts give you the required ratio, i.e. 4.11 ?
What other installation parts would I need to source ? Woofers & tweeters sir :003:
I refuse to give in just yet :011:
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Aye theres been a few things in this thread noted...highly informative..
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You could ring Randys..
They can tell you everything that you will need and will send it to you quick, not the cheapest tho..
Truetracks,Yukon gear sets for which ratio you choose and diff rebuild kits which include bearings seals shims etc..
http://www.ringpinion.com/Contact.aspx (http://www.ringpinion.com/Contact.aspx)
I think Steve at FTE and lighthouse keep the rebuild kits..
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Gaz I have a high pinion dana30 with new knuckles in it you can have for £50, diff is goosed & no shafts, but a cheap way of getting new joints (£100 ish) & a better prop angle
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as this thread develops it seems clear that it not as easy as it once was to re gears done it would seem there is a window of opertunaty
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Today's plan is to ring Shelly Transmissions, Frogs island & get in touch with Randy's
Spoke to EDM yesterday, they are waiting on parts prices & will e-mail me.
Steve, cheers for the offer, I may get back to you as this progress's, or not. Trouble is I have no idea if thats an option as I dont really know WTF I need & dont to be honest :003:
Before I do anything though, even if it means just fixing the current bearing issue, opinions will be sort :icon_winkle:
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I've fitted lockers to the D30 and 8.25 on my XJ and also done a full rebuild of the D30 to replace bearings. It does require tools that you wouldn't use for anything else, time (& patience) and a good workspace but I don't think it's actually that hard.
The price comes from needing a ring and pinion set, rebuild kit (berings etc), locker/carrier, oils, sealant and labour. With the current exchange rate and shipping costs, the parts cost more now than 3 years ago and all the parts are heavy so are exepensive to ship anyway.
When I spoke to Mik at Rednexx he quoted (verbally) at £200 labour for axle work, based on supply of everythin needed.
I bought all of my axle parts from Randy's Ring and Pinion and rebuild kits from Lighthouse. Parts alone to re-build the D30 cost over £200 if I remember correctly (from Lighthouse, short notice, didn't have time to shop around).
I'd be very surprised if MDG isn't the highest quote :icon_winkle:
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Today's plan is to ring Shelly Transmissions.....
Just to add to the EDM recommendation I gave you on J33P....I've not used Shelley Transmissions for a re-gear but did get them to sort out my front prop, which had previously been repaired :jpshakehead: by someone else.
Good advice, quick and very reasonable price on the prop so I'd be interested to know if they are competitive for the re-gear.
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I got a master rebuild kit and 4.11 RnP's from an ebay buyer from the US for a 30 & 35 for $600 delivered a few years ago (1.80 exchange rate at the time) Got all the tools to do the job too, just never go around to doing it so ebayed the axle kits off :icon_rolleyes:
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TRY ANDY ROBINSON RACECARS 01256 880589 HE ALSO BUILDS FOR SANTA POD RACERS.HE REGEARED MY AXLES FROM STANDARD TO 4.88 ABOUT 3 YEARS AGO IT COST ME £950 LABOUR AND PARTS INCLUDING VAT.I DID TAKE THE AXLES TO HIM BUT HE DOES HAVE A LARGE WORKSHOP
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hey steve do you have clamshell bearing tool and set up bearings
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Well work was/is mad at the mo & went straight to the football tonight so only got to ring Frogsisland at what passed for a lunch hour.
They put me on to a local guy (to them) they use who has been into Jeeps for a long time. Spoke to him, he has done this & other drive line mods to customers & his own vehicles, he is gonna price the job up & get back to me. You never know :icon_winkle:
Will try & ring Shelley tomorrow.
Seems there's a country wide shortage of Kuhmo 31" muds too at the mo, might get it sorted in time for the turkey hunt at this rate gggrrrrr.
Thanks for everyone's continuing input & suggestions, all appreciated :icon_winkle:
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mik at rednexx is yer man. i will get hold of him for ya gaz dood. will take a bit of time as he is out of the uk at the moment. he has a guy who has taken his place here but i cant get his number. i will ring miks home again tomorrow and get a contact number for ya. mik is a top axle builder so i am sure his stand in will be as good. £2k +. :wsmile: they must think all jeep owners are soft in the head rather than just 50% of em.
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Cheers Greg, thought that avenue was completely closed :icon_winkle:
BTW, dont tell him I told you but Mr Mo siad he was very impressed with the sliders :icon_winkle:
You know he will never admit it to you directly :003:
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hey steve do you have clamshell bearing tool and set up bearings
Not of my own, blagged a diff setup kit from my uncle (HGV mech) the pumkin spreader is bloody huge, have the other tools required in the shed tho
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you can get away without the spreader on jeeps unless the newer ones need them you do if you are doing landy salisburys
i have most of whats needed bur the clamshell tool is 100% damage free way off removing the bearings for shim ajustment and set up bearing are just sweet and not very dear i aim to get amc 20 d 44 and 30 ones
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Are you working on a plan Bubba?
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juhfcgv :017: kvfrhjl; :icon_toilet: kkjhgfh kt sdddee :banghead: sdfyth dr jjgfdcfvf klk :wsmile: hddcffd ijh cddsdvck :sign0023: khjhjh :wsmile:
jgd okjhh :steeringwheel: dc
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Thats possibly a yes then.. :greggmo:
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Well its all clingon to me, but then again most of this thread has been :hysterical:
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I have D30 setup bearings - just my old ones with the centre enlarged, nothing fancy but works well. I think I only used the carrier ones when setting backlash, none when doing the pinion cos I don't think the bearings have to come off to add/remove shims - does this sound correct?? You can borrow mine if you need them to do a first diff before creating your own from the old bearings.
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Latest update.
Due to the expense that keeps being quoted at me to do the re-gear & the true tracs a compromise has had to be made :icon_sad:
Still going for the 4.11 re-gear, just waiting for the quote from Randy's (cheers Dodster) for the ring & pinion & install sets & shipping etc.
The true tracs are gonna have to wait until another time, but should just be a straight swap fingers crossed.
Good news is though that we DO have a LSD in the back as was 1st thought, the true trac set up is not blindingly obvious at 1st look though :icon_biggrin:
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Mate of mine phoned up on Sunday as he had rogered his TJ diff and was looking to replace his LSD in the rear at the same time...
Now bear with me on this .... I said a Spool at the rear will be cheap..... it is... and is strong cos it replaces everything..... but for the UK mud and 33s I came across this which I did know about it but not in detail.... Its called a mini-spool and replaces the spider gears side washers and thrust washers which are then replaced by the mini-spool blocks...
now your fully locked up....
Yukon Gear and Axle... Mini-Spool...... www.yukongear.com (http://www.yukongear.com)
Part no YP MINSD44-30
And you'll love this bit?????????????? $79 Yes that's not a typo $79 and nothing to ever go wrong....
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Cheers Wildy :icon_winkle:
Bubba !!!!
Is this a full locker or a LSD ?
Is this an option given you know whats planned etc ?
You have a few hours to advise as I'm off to the football straight from work :003:
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Not wanting to pee on anyones fire here, but, Yukon dont recommend the mini spool for street driven trucks.
http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3276 (http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3276)
:greggmo:
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A spool is like a full locker that never unlocks. Where a full locker like my Detroit unlocks when coasting so that I can go around corners, a spool doesn't - at least that's how I understand them.
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all true but the cherp at each junction is kinda sexy
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Spool off road is OK.
Spool on road needs to be respected it can bite like a PITBULL - your nads are in it's jaws.
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it lacks the refinement that his lordship is used to
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They are very sophisticated for sure... :icon_super:
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The plot thickens. For the re-gear only.
Tried Lighthouse today, they can supply the ring & pinion set & install kits front & rear. The rear crown wheel is a thicker design to use the existing carrier, the front would need a new carrier.
£1333 all in including VAT & carriage.
Randy's are quoting the following
Qty Part # Description Price Ext
------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 YG D30S-411TJ D30 SHORT 4.10 R&P S $183.92 $183.92
1 YK D30-TJ D30 SHORT in TJ, '98 $132.33 $132.33
1 YG D44-411 D44 4.09 R&P $195.91 $195.91
1 YK D44 D44 MASTER OVERHAUL $164.76 $164.76
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal: $676.92
With shipping on top of $300 & adding 25% for duty & VAT we are looking at approx $1250.
Using $1.50 to the £1 this comes out at £833.
£500 notes cheaper than Lighthouse.
The quandary is that after checking with Dodster (cheers Phil) he thinks that all the stuff fitted by Mike at Rednexx was Randy's stuff but he may also have had to have a new carrier front & rear.
Got to check with Randy's, to see if I need a new carrier for the front & or rear (tech guy on voicemail at the mo) so am in limbo.
Any thoughts ?
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Me again, I have contacted an eBay seller in the US about true tracs (I can dream cant I).
Hi Gary, this unit will work in the front of your TJ, but is not recommended because your TJ will have a vacuum disconnect front end. If you get the Jeep articulated, the axle shaft could pull out.
This true ?
Do I have a vacuum disconnect on the front diff ?
Anyone ever heard of this problem before ?
Cheers
Gaz
Just had this follow up as to why its not suitable
Hi Gary, the issue is the vacuum disconnect. When you use the Truetrac differential, there is no way to get the c-clip on. It works, but if the Jeeps get out of shape and in a bind the axle could pull out.
So there you go :102:
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he is talking about yj front axle
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Truetrac are a great compromise to a locker I run a set on the green Wrangler - I would recommend these!!
(http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_126000.jpg)
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/DetroitTruetrac/index.htm (http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/DetroitTruetrac/index.htm)
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for cost cussedness an relative refinement i like these but not in the front only the rear
http://www.richmondgear.com/powertrax/noslip.html (http://www.richmondgear.com/powertrax/noslip.html)
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Still waiting on a response from Randy's to ensure I order all the bits necessary to do the job, dont want to have a missing part that will keep it off the road when the spannering starts.
Just investigating whether I can persuade SWMBO include the True tracs as originally hoped rather than have to do half the job :003:
Found an Ebay USA seller (see above posts) that does the front true trac for $365 & the back for $450, joint postage $158 so about $975 + Vat & Duty, hhmmmm
Anyone know of cheaper feel free to shout.
Wish me luck :greggmo:
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Been teaching oneself what is involved with all this re-gear palaver.
I am not an expert but at least I can decipher some of the earlier posts now :icon_jook:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ (http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/)
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Having just read most of that, I think I've just become an instant expert on setting up diffs. :003:
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Stuffs all ordered including true tracs :icon_jook:
Thanks to everyone for the their advise, quite exited now... permission to be be more exited than someone that has a particular reason to be exited :hysterical:
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Got to get the speedo reading right now its re-geared to 4.10 running 31" tyres.
Am I looking at the right things here folks ?
One chart seems to suggest 36 tooth, another chart a 37 tooth :017:
Happy to go in middle just in case it ever goes onto 33's, unlikely though
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=52862 (http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=52862)
http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-46.htm (http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-46.htm)
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Don't forget that the speedo is designed to over-read by about 5% rather than be 100% accurate. This is the same on most cars and I have heard that the vehicle's ECU takes this into account.
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yes i find most things over read acording to sat nav
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from what I understand a speedo is allowed to be up to 10% over or under the speed showing, its why speed cameras won't trigger til you are above that speed by 10%+ when you drive by them.
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Ordered the new speedo gear from Lighthouse. £22 plus the dreaded for the gear & new O ring.
Gone for a 36 tooth gear on their suggestion. Had to do something as it reads about 57 mph when sat nav says 45 mph :icon_redface:
Not aiming for perfection, just there or there abouts will do :icon_winkle: