Topic: best gearing options for a tj auto (Read 11386 times)

gazjeep · « **Reply #25 on:** January 19, 2010, 10:08:34 AM »

Cheers for the info, that would be an option if I had the facilities & the know how to remove the blighters but sadly I have neither

Looks like I shall be ringing a few places at lunch time, fingers crossed.

Hope its not a case of NNUC

wildwood · « **Reply #26 on:** January 19, 2010, 11:15:11 AM »

Just to tempt you even more I just dug out the figs.

In Sept I took the Dana 30 off the YJ and took it to Steve. He had had a rebuilt ARB sitting around for a few years that I bought for £300 and his axleman charged £200 to remove my lockright locker and fit the ARB, I am sure his labour charge (cash no vat) would not have been much more if he had had to change ring and pinion and remesh and shim to tolerances.

I guess if you get the prices of the components and rebuild/fitting kits you can accurately estimate the final cost.

Just don't like the thought of a fellow Jeeper paying over the odds (my hippy philosophy showing through again.)

Nosebolt · « **Reply #27 on:** January 19, 2010, 01:11:45 PM »

just out of intrest why did did you change from the lockright to arb?

Panic mechanic! · « **Reply #28 on:** January 19, 2010, 02:12:55 PM »

aren't lockright a little harsh in use on the road? ( if i remember correctly)

isle of man · « **Reply #29 on:** January 19, 2010, 05:14:47 PM »

Quote from: Panic mechanic! on January 19, 2010, 02:12:55 PM

aren't lockright a little harsh in use on the road? ( if i remember correctly)

Yes....

JamesH · « **Reply #30 on:** January 19, 2010, 05:17:27 PM »

It's all about control

wildwood · « **Reply #31 on:** January 19, 2010, 06:31:34 PM »

Lockright in the rear will improve your driving.... (or kill you) joking! Just makes you smoother on the gas and if you put your foot in it halfway round a roundabout it will bite back. I've got used to it after 8 years....
The front however....... On a YJ the dissconect vacuum thing helps but it does mean that the shafts are turning the whole time and the prop which is VERY thin 'cos of the exhaust proximity is spinning and this is turning the transfer case in 2 wheel drive and spins up the chain.....blah blah ..... so in short order you will roger your ujs on the prop and stretch the chain in the 231 transfer case and you can hear that? AND its a bitch to turn tightly offroad 'cos the lockers make you plough straight on.So that was the end of my success at trials!!

I deliberately didn't go with ARBs 'cos I'm a tight fisted bolshy hippy bastard that wasn't going to put over priced troublesome Ozzie shit in his Jeep just cos everyone else told me I should so lockrites all round so to speak and it went everywhere with little skill from me but not very accurately! BUT I saved money!!!!!! OR DID I???

After replacing the prop and UJs and rebuilding the transfer case I put a 2 low in the 231 so 1 more pull back of the lever from 4 low and you are in 2 low and can turn....worked well. but I still had everything spinning so Warn free wheeling hubs and yes cos I was breaking the small UJs a LOT I went with chrome moly warn shafts and bigger UJs..... prob solved ££££££
Next I wanted more control and couldn't affford an Atlas... So I got myself a Dana300 and a flip over kit from the US with twin stick changer....
Took me 2 years to get around to all this and then I wanted more control in the rocks and not just 4 to 1 so I imported a Klune underdrive and as an aside got an NV3500 cos I had rogered the box so with the Klune and the dana and the NV with its 4 to 1 first I have transfer ratios of 2.6 or 4.0 or compound of 10.4 to 1 that is a crawl ratio with 4.56s of 190 to 1 when ya normal YJ would be about 35 to 1 on factory axle ratios. Goes brilliantly on the rock with the hand throttle, makes me look like I know what I'm doing!!! However the twin stick idea is a failure cos the Dana suffers from windup so you cant shift on the fly like an Atlas!!!!!! Aaaaarrrrgggghhhh!!!! I can do front digs with front axle only but only if I shift into that from the start.... so OK but no cigar. and I can't knock it into rear wheel drive whilst in fwd for the same reason.... Nearly there now ...... so that was the reason for the change to the ARB so I could turn tighter again..... i did have onboard air already so some light at the end of the tunnel.

So rather than doing all this piece meal cos I like development and being different and 'economical'

If I had ponied up for ARBs and an Atlas first off I could have saved myself an awful lot ofgrief and swapping around of bits ......but I have enjoyed the journey so far and the industry has changed a lot and new parts are available.

If money was not a question I would start again as follows if I was just starting....
Spool at the rear can't beat 'em
ARB at the front
Atlas 3 speed box
Job's a good'un

isle of man · « **Reply #32 on:** January 19, 2010, 06:56:07 PM »

Quote from: wildwood on January 19, 2010, 06:31:34 PM

If money was not a question I would start again as follows if I was just starting....
Spool at the rear can't beat 'em
ARB at the front
Atlas 3 speed box
Job's a good'un

I'm with WEDGIE the hippy WOOD in-fact my Buggy has something like this setup...

gazjeep · « **Reply #33 on:** January 19, 2010, 09:02:29 PM »

Hhhmm.

This isn't going as well as I had hoped.

Rednexx e-mail addy is bouncing, presumed no more as suggested, places in Coventry & Stourbridge don't do this sort of thing, had one NNUC quote that SWMBO has said would be well on the way to a bloody good 2 weeks all inclusive holiday in the Caribbean & a quote to come from EDM.

Been looking round to see about sourcing the bits but a bit confused by finding that when the pinion bearing problem was diagnosed it was an open diff with no clutch packs.

Thought I would check up with Jeep UK to see what it should have who confirmed from the VIN number that we have a Dana 44 with trac lock but no LSD, confused ? From my web searching a jeep trac lock should be a LSD with clutch packs or am I reading it wrong, who knows ?

A bit more research (cheers Doc) would suggest that it should have a Dana 30 front low pinion & a Dana 44 Tack lock LSD in the back. Not an issue if we are changing but at the current quote level its gonna be a fix the current diff I think & start saving

Confused & frustrated of Worcester

Mike Pavelin · « **Reply #34 on:** January 19, 2010, 09:09:44 PM »

I would estimate you're being quoted £800 to a grand per axle.

isle of man · « **Reply #35 on:** January 19, 2010, 09:24:03 PM »

That is not a all inclusive caribbean holiday price or at least one I would consider!!!!

wildwood · « **Reply #36 on:** January 19, 2010, 09:47:04 PM »

If ya get a good deal on an ARB and pay £200 for labour to fit and extras for the ring and pinion and bits and oil I reckon £800- £1000 is a good deal (as Mike said above) especially if you 'know' the quality of the guys work.

A full spool for the Dana 44 rear is $250 so there's a saving there and every car park will forever sound like a chase scene from Starsky and Hutch

Going this route and getting/bullying some Birtys to help you on the axle strip (for FTE) could see you done and dusted for £1500 ish....

gazjeep · « **Reply #37 on:** January 19, 2010, 09:48:01 PM »

Well your both right

:icon

Mike, MDG £2,350 inc VAT

Peter, I plead guilty to SWMBO exaggerating, make that half a week

Probably being overoptimistic but was thinking £1500 tops

Bubba · « **Reply #38 on:** January 19, 2010, 09:56:11 PM »

ring shelly transmisions eagle street w/hampton you may need to suply but i know they have done jeep work

gazjeep · « **Reply #39 on:** January 19, 2010, 10:00:23 PM »

In the words of the hobbit...... noted

gazjeep · « **Reply #40 on:** January 19, 2010, 10:28:41 PM »

With a view to buying the parts & getting someone else, like Shelley to fit them for example, the nice man at Eatons has given me the following part numbers for the true tracs;

The Truetrac part number for the front Dana 30 is 912A585.

The Truetrac part number for the rear Dana 44 is 913A590.

On top of this I am told that the Truetrac is independent and does not include the ring and pinion or any installation components.

So then, do the ring & pinion parts give you the required ratio, i.e. 4.11 ?

What other installation parts would I need to source ? Woofers & tweeters sir

I refuse to give in just yet

Bishops Finger · « **Reply #41 on:** January 19, 2010, 10:30:47 PM »

Aye theres been a few things in this thread noted...highly informative..

Dodster · « **Reply #42 on:** January 19, 2010, 11:08:38 PM »

You could ring Randys..
They can tell you everything that you will need and will send it to you quick, not the cheapest tho..
Truetracks,Yukon gear sets for which ratio you choose and diff rebuild kits which include bearings seals shims etc..
http://www.ringpinion.com/Contact.aspx

I think Steve at FTE and lighthouse keep the rebuild kits..

scrw · « **Reply #43 on:** January 20, 2010, 09:00:22 AM »

Gaz I have a high pinion dana30 with new knuckles in it you can have for £50, diff is goosed & no shafts, but a cheap way of getting new joints (£100 ish) & a better prop angle

Bubba · « **Reply #44 on:** January 20, 2010, 09:57:46 AM »

as this thread develops it seems clear that it not as easy as it once was to re gears done it would seem there is a window of opertunaty

gazjeep · « **Reply #45 on:** January 20, 2010, 10:14:56 AM »

Today's plan is to ring Shelly Transmissions, Frogs island & get in touch with Randy's

Spoke to EDM yesterday, they are waiting on parts prices & will e-mail me.

Steve, cheers for the offer, I may get back to you as this progress's, or not. Trouble is I have no idea if thats an option as I dont really know WTF I need & dont to be honest

Before I do anything though, even if it means just fixing the current bearing issue, opinions will be sort

JamesH · « **Reply #46 on:** January 20, 2010, 11:41:19 AM »

I've fitted lockers to the D30 and 8.25 on my XJ and also done a full rebuild of the D30 to replace bearings. It does require tools that you wouldn't use for anything else, time (& patience) and a good workspace but I don't think it's actually that hard.

The price comes from needing a ring and pinion set, rebuild kit (berings etc), locker/carrier, oils, sealant and labour. With the current exchange rate and shipping costs, the parts cost more now than 3 years ago and all the parts are heavy so are exepensive to ship anyway.

When I spoke to Mik at Rednexx he quoted (verbally) at £200 labour for axle work, based on supply of everythin needed.

I bought all of my axle parts from Randy's Ring and Pinion and rebuild kits from Lighthouse. Parts alone to re-build the D30 cost over £200 if I remember correctly (from Lighthouse, short notice, didn't have time to shop around).

I'd be very surprised if MDG isn't the highest quote

Tony Hill · « **Reply #47 on:** January 20, 2010, 02:15:31 PM »

Quote from: gazjeep on January 20, 2010, 10:14:56 AM

Today's plan is to ring Shelly Transmissions.....

Just to add to the EDM recommendation I gave you on J33P....I've not used Shelley Transmissions for a re-gear but did get them to sort out my front prop, which had previously been repaired

by someone else.

Good advice, quick and very reasonable price on the prop so I'd be interested to know if they are competitive for the re-gear.

scrw · « **Reply #48 on:** January 20, 2010, 06:44:12 PM »

I got a master rebuild kit and 4.11 RnP's from an ebay buyer from the US for a 30 & 35 for $600 delivered a few years ago (1.80 exchange rate at the time) Got all the tools to do the job too, just never go around to doing it so ebayed the axle kits off

MICK · « **Reply #49 on:** January 20, 2010, 08:26:42 PM »

TRY ANDY ROBINSON RACECARS 01256 880589 HE ALSO BUILDS FOR SANTA POD RACERS.HE REGEARED MY AXLES FROM STANDARD TO 4.88 ABOUT 3 YEARS AGO IT COST ME £950 LABOUR AND PARTS INCLUDING VAT.I DID TAKE THE AXLES TO HIM BUT HE DOES HAVE A LARGE WORKSHOP

Author Topic: best gearing options for a tj auto (Read 11386 times)

Nosebolt

Panic mechanic!

Mike Pavelin

Bishops Finger

Dodster

scrw

Tony Hill

scrw

MICK