Topic: Drum brake rebuild (Read 4673 times)

Dave69 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 22, 2014, 04:32:17 PM »

making the double flares on the hard lines will be the hardest bit, followed by getting the air out of the system

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #26 on:** June 22, 2014, 10:39:57 PM »

That's good to hear! Hopefully I'll be assisted with the double-flares, and when doing the front brakes with assistance they were bled through in about 5 minutes with the suction pump my mechanic uses!

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #27 on:** June 25, 2014, 04:48:29 PM »

I was a bit nervous about the brake lines for this job as Mr Mechanic told me that he might not be around a lot this weekend, so he might have to leave me to get on with it.
I remembered once reading that the stealership stocked hard brake lines, so I gave Carrs of Indian Queens a call just on the off chance that they still did them. The very friendly parts department said that they haven't done them in ages as not many people with XJs go to them anymore, but they could have both sides (100% bolt on, including fittings) in by 10am on Friday morning for £20!

I'm very happy, and much relieved!

Dave69 · « **Reply #28 on:** June 25, 2014, 06:15:52 PM »

thats cheap

Lornaben · « **Reply #29 on:** June 25, 2014, 06:16:44 PM »

Feckin bargain

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #30 on:** June 26, 2014, 04:26:33 PM »

Right, sorry to keep going on about this but I've found out that I'm going to be doing this without help, so I'm a bit nervous!
I've got pretty much all new parts (apart from drums and backs), and ready-made pipes. I should have plenty of time (4 hours on Saturday, all day Sunday).

Can someone kind of run through with me the order that I need to do things, what I need to look out for etc? Are there any mistakes to look out for that could cause more problems?
The old pipes and fitting are really rusted, so is it okay to just cut them off? Will the old cylinder bolts be reusable?

Cheeeeeeeeeeeeers

JamesH · « **Reply #31 on:** June 26, 2014, 04:46:38 PM »

As you have new lines with fitting you can just cut the pipes off at the drum side. You will need to use some WD40 type stuff on the fittings at the T piece as they won't want to come out and you don't want to mangle them. I have a little adjustable spanner thing that grips tighter the more pressure you apply that is really good for brake fittings, I'm not sure what it's called but that's a big help for stiff brake fittings.

It's helpful if you work on one side and use the other side as the reference for how it all goes back together. There's need for some brute force on the springs sometimes (unless I've just always done it wrong).

I'll see if I can find my workshop manual and send you pages so you can see the suggested order of work.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #32 on:** June 26, 2014, 07:45:22 PM »

Cheers for that James, just what I needed to know

I'm now Jeepless for another week though

I had a phone call from the mechanic because the people who share his workshop have left a Range Rover in pieces in there and they don't go in on Fridays, so there's no room for me to fix the XJ

eastryjeep · « **Reply #33 on:** June 26, 2014, 10:03:16 PM »

Maybe jeepless but you can always clean up all your fittings and get some brake cleaner working on those threads. A weeks soak will make the job much easier.
Also take photos now of 'as built' condition so you only need a few extra when you're stripping it down. Don't think of it as wasted time, reuse it for something else like trawling the net for how-to's, so you know what to expect. It will give you herds more confidence.

XJ Fan · « **Reply #34 on:** June 27, 2014, 08:29:32 AM »

You may find this video interesting:
I've been watching his stuff for a little while now, and find his style funny and informative

Dave69 · « **Reply #35 on:** June 27, 2014, 05:37:13 PM »

If you have new lines then the fittings will already be there, so get some mole grips and take out the originals as they might be knackered and tight. don't lose the brake cylinder bolts that hold the cylinder in place.

take a photo of the brake shoe layout as this is always confusing when done the first time.

lay everything out as you take it off so it mimicks the installation. when you put it back together it wont be as confusing

eastryjeep · « **Reply #36 on:** June 27, 2014, 07:17:10 PM »

Well I quite liked the video.
Such a shame he bent the springs, ignored the wet wheel cylinder, forgot to clean and lubricate anything and filled the bearing with years worth of crap.

Always clean and protect the bearings and sliding surfaces before removal.
There was an old saying that went something like 'If it's too dirty to put back together, then it's too dirty to strip'.

Damn good starter though.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #37 on:** June 27, 2014, 11:55:55 PM »

Cheers guys, I feel quite a bit more comfortable now. I'd already watched that video 3 times - I often watch BleepinJeep stuff as I find them entertaining and genuinely useful.

I collected the brake lines today - they're absolutely perfect, and even have the metal coil casing around the whole length

Dave69 · « **Reply #38 on:** June 28, 2014, 04:53:11 PM »

metal coil casing = corrosion trap

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #39 on:** July 05, 2014, 02:27:20 PM »

Aagh, all is going well, but one wheel cylinder bolt on each side simply won't undo without rounding the head.

I assume I'll have to cut them off, but does anybody know what size they are and where I could find replacements ASAP??

Cheers!

Dave69 · « **Reply #40 on:** July 06, 2014, 01:15:20 AM »

the are not metric or std english imperial.

odd american thread cant remember the size though, bad thing is you will find it hard to source one over the weekend

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #41 on:** July 06, 2014, 02:31:35 PM »

Thankfully by the time I got to the Jeep this morning, Mr Mechanic had found some bolts that would fit after cutting down, and had already drilled one wheel cylinder off!

The rest of the job went smoothly and the handbrake works great, but upon disturbing the brake line that runs front to rear it started to leak, so that will have to be done over the next couple of days

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #42 on:** July 10, 2014, 01:10:09 PM »

I've got my Jeep back!! The rear brakes are now completely re-plumbed and it stops so much better, as well as having a fully functional hand brake that only needs two clicks to work!

I actually got it fixed on Tuesday evening, but I've been away camping since then

jay140285 · « **Reply #43 on:** July 10, 2014, 01:30:02 PM »

Result

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #44 on:** July 10, 2014, 02:05:40 PM »

nice one

Dave69 · « **Reply #45 on:** July 10, 2014, 06:53:12 PM »

shall we wait a month for the, guys my brakes are binding thread

JamesH · « **Reply #46 on:** July 10, 2014, 06:58:18 PM »

So full of cheer Dave!

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #47 on:** July 11, 2014, 01:06:57 AM »

Quote from: Dave69 on July 10, 2014, 06:53:12 PM

shall we wait a month for the, guys my brakes are binding thread

Oi, I'm hoping for that not to happen!!

I've driven it a good 100 miles today, and it really stops well now

Dave69 · « **Reply #48 on:** July 12, 2014, 01:37:49 PM »

just being factual, off-roading takes its toll quicker on components.

cant beat refurbished brakes

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #49 on:** July 12, 2014, 02:03:31 PM »

Haha, I know

Cleaning out drums is something I'd never thought to do before, so I'll make a point of doing it from now on!

Author Topic: Drum brake rebuild (Read 4673 times)

eastryjeep

eastryjeep

jay140285