Topic: Brake replacement advice (Read 3558 times)

JamesH · « **Reply #25 on:** April 21, 2014, 11:36:27 AM »

I've read the advice to take brakes off when stationary before but only for breaking new pads and discs in.

isle of man · « **Reply #26 on:** April 21, 2014, 03:40:03 PM »

LOOK !! Green, PINK (KY CREW) compound I don't care, it counts for shiet!! Brakes get HOT, brakes go to mud/water brakes hate it!!! Answer is to upgrade end of.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #27 on:** April 24, 2014, 12:38:09 PM »

My discs arrived today, so I need to start thinking about how to change them.
I could go to my mechanic and get him to do them, or see if he'll help me, but I'm also considering doing them at home.

Question time:
How do I replace them? I've found a guide and it looks simple, but I don't think I have anything to squeeze the piston back to put the new pads in - are there any tricks to doing this?

What tools do I need for everything?

Do I need anything else? Some places mention grease, and anti-squeal stuff, and I've also heard mention of de-greasing the discs before fitting.

Any advice that you lot have would be very useful!

jay140285 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 24, 2014, 01:01:30 PM »

I have done a few without any specialist tools,

Used a G clamp to push pistons in, after undoing the reservoir cap. Might not be the right way but its worked so far.

wildwood · « **Reply #29 on:** April 24, 2014, 01:28:25 PM »

Aerosol can of brake cleaner to get your mucky paw prints off the discs and any unwanted oil that gets everywhere when doing the job

JamesH · « **Reply #30 on:** April 24, 2014, 02:57:47 PM »

Copper grease to lube everything up and help avoid squeaks. I use a G clamp to compress brakes on the Jeep (other cars needs a special tool to turn the pistons - Jeep doesn't).

just-boot-it · « **Reply #31 on:** April 24, 2014, 07:05:14 PM »

Good choice bryn, you will notice the difference once they have been bedded in.

Dave69 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 25, 2014, 10:03:38 PM »

take wheel off

undo two bolts holding caliper on

use pry bar to push caliper off disk

use a g clamp on old brake pad to push piston back into caliper

replace new pads

pull off brake disk

put on new brake disk

replace caliper and bolts

pump brake to seat pads

replace wheel

drive

time 1/2 hour to 45mins start to finish

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #33 on:** April 25, 2014, 10:08:04 PM »

I like these simple instructions - cheers Dave!

I'm just waiting for these damn slow pads to arrive now...

JamesH · « **Reply #34 on:** April 25, 2014, 10:50:52 PM »

Call it a half day for the job both sides if you drink tea and like to clean stuff up before re-fitting like me.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #35 on:** April 25, 2014, 10:53:11 PM »

Yeah, I usually at least double quoted times to account for my tea/coffee drinking, getting distracted, and general uselessness.

Dave69 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 26, 2014, 09:00:38 AM »

if you want a hand i can help tomorrow (sunday) if that suits

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #37 on:** April 26, 2014, 09:12:51 AM »

That would be great Dave - it just depends on whether or not the pads arrive today (which I somehow doubt they will!). I'll let you know if they do!

JamesH · « **Reply #38 on:** April 26, 2014, 10:04:56 AM »

When you've done the fronts it would be worth re-adjusting the rear shoes manually through the access hole. Then you'll have all brakes as they should be (until the rear auto adjusters don't auto adjust

)

Dave69 · « **Reply #39 on:** April 26, 2014, 12:09:58 PM »

Ok. Let me know the outcome. Since its lunch time i gather tje pads havent arrived

Mike2909 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 26, 2014, 12:15:10 PM »

Quote from: j33pky on April 21, 2014, 08:18:07 AM

Quote from: Mike2909 on April 20, 2014, 03:45:12 PM
The main cause of warping the discs is by keeping your foot on the brakes when stationary instead of using the handbrake.
Town driving, having to stop at lights and keeping your foot on the brake instead of using the handbrake is the biggest culprit.
I have always been a big fan of Brembo discs and pads but that's personal choice.

Why would keeping your foot on the brakes while stationary warp your disks?

The heat increases where the pad is holding the disc and creates a hot spot. We have it happen with our trucks that do city centre deliveries. Our mechanics explained it to me, I am just passing on there explanation.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #41 on:** April 26, 2014, 12:34:10 PM »

Quote from: Dave69 on April 26, 2014, 12:09:58 PM

Ok. Let me know the outcome. Since its lunch time i gather tje pads havent arrived

Nope, I don't know why they're taking so long!

Dave69 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 26, 2014, 04:37:22 PM »

A disc rotating against the fiction material generates heat. A stationary hot disk with an applied friction material does not create heat as there is no heat generation taking place. The brake applied while stationary will act as a heat sink from the hot disk into the caliper and brake fluid. Warpage normally occurs when the brakes have been dragged and the colour of the disk has turned blue. A siezed piston is a classic cause for warping disks. Another is constantly dragging the brake from an auto, which normally happens on hilly roads.
I can only assume the drivers are dragging the brakes in town traffic if the trucks are autos.

When disks are below the recommended minimum excessive heat will also increase the chance of warpage, hence the design of vented disks and drilled holes.

But there again i dont know alot so will stand to be corrected

Delk · « **Reply #43 on:** April 26, 2014, 07:15:52 PM »

The only thing I would add is to look where the pads ride on the carrier bracket. Over time the little grooves where the pads sit turn into big grooves. Not sure if it would ever cause an issue but I always welded mine up and filed them back down.

I do miss working on a newer Dana 30 front axle. It takes longer to get the wheels off then do the brakes. Never used a G clamp when replacing the pads or discs. I just cheated and jammed a screw driver between the disc and pads before removing the calipers. They were being tossed anyways so who cares about scratches.

Three bolts more and the wheel bearing and drive axle come out when things went wrong. Very easy system to work with and it would be great if it was beefier.

I run mine like a race car and stand on the brakes when stopped and never had an issue with warpage but maybe I am just lucky.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #44 on:** May 01, 2014, 07:44:41 PM »

I picked up some new pads today and have got this all done!
I struggled on the first wheel as I didn't have a G-clamp, and couldn't get the piston back in by levering it. I borrowed a clamp from someone else in the end though, and the second wheel took me 15 minutes!

I've not been out for a drive, but they seemed fine maneuvering around home!

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #45 on:** May 01, 2014, 07:48:03 PM »

good man there

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-150mm-Heavy-Duty-G-Clamp-Metal-Wood-Woodwork-Vice-/351045768651?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item51bbf555cb

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #46 on:** May 02, 2014, 11:38:32 PM »

I know, there really is no excuse for not having a clamp!

I took the Jeep for the first drive with the new brakes today, and they've absolutely transformed it! I knew they'd always been bit warped since I started driving it back in 2012, but I didn't know it was possible for them to be so smooth and quiet!

This is the happiest I've ever been with anything I've done with the Jeep - it's just so much nicer to drive now!

JamesH · « **Reply #47 on:** May 03, 2014, 10:21:27 AM »

Author Topic: Brake replacement advice (Read 3558 times)

jay140285

just-boot-it

Mike2909

Delk