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[Bulldog67]

Lost bout 2-3 litres of coolant yesterday so its def not just gauge buggered


Is this shroud enuff:

[Nosebolt]

not definitive but as you can see the floor then there is a chance it may be aero related, but would test hose first, get it warm and then see how easy to squash hose by hand, if you can deform it then fit a new hose

[Bulldog67]

I'm underneath anyway as changing oil and spotted Jim has fitted this - which I assume negates the hose collapse problem

[Nosebolt]

depends how long the other end is, if its longer than the diameter then still check it as it may still be possible for it to crush under vacume

[Mike Pavelin]

Luckily that is one i can def discount - when Jim did the 401 he had to spend 30 mins clearing all the mud out of the rad once he had taken it off

I mean inside inside, where the coolant goes. With the engine hot, make sure the radiator core is hot all over.

[Bulldog67]

Ok cheers Mike

[wildwood]

Have you got the overflow bottle in place so that when the pressure spits out of the overflow by the rad cap it is captured in the bottle.......and then say phoned back in when the engine cools??
Without the bottle you will lose coolant.

[ferretjuggler]

It would be interesting to see it filmed with an infra red camera.

Don't suppose that helps much unless you're lucky enough to own one.

[Bulldog67]

No infrared camera

The overflow bottle is in place, and that is where i spotted the steam pipeing from its overflow pipe when i pulled up at home yesrday

Will order a new sender and thermostat 2mrw and see where that leads.

If that improves nowt then will whip the winch off and see what happens - if that is at fault then I may stick the X9 superwinch on instead as looks mildly more streamline with its plastic cover thing - would seem an odd problem tho considering how many trucks have winches - would be just my luck

[wildwood]

And check that the cap is good as that was the root of a coolant loss prob on the ZJ...... Seal had gone hard on the cap and water under pressure was getting past the cap and overflow hose to the atmosphere.

[bigjeepzj]

  also had the same problem with drain cock not sealing

[Bulldog67]

Ok cheers, it was new bout 3 yrs ago but will replace anyway

[ferretjuggler]

I'm just wondering if somewhere like Maplins would sell cheap thermocouples that would allow you to measure your inlet and outlet temperature on the move.
Obviously do all the simple steps first and see if that cures it.
But if it turns into Mission Impossible it might be a way of pinning down the problem.

Basically is the problem an abnormal amount of heat being produced,  or a normal amount of heat but no cooling from the rad?

[bigjeepzj]

this would do the job me thinks 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-channel-K-Type-Digital-Thermocouple-Thermometer-6802-II-4x-probes-BGA-HVAC-/161020598313?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item257d935829

this ones cheaper
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Thermometer-2-K-Type-Thermocouple-Sensor-1300-C-/110876330008?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item19d0be8818

[Panic mechanic!]

you haven't got large great gaps round the front of the rad where you have removed bits and pieces have you?

[Bulldog67]

Don't think so, it's St still a stock sized rad

BJZJ - Cheers

So I assume I run it to overheating and then jump out and check temp on top and bottom hose?

[bigjeepzj]

yep

you need to put the ends of the wires in the hoses and run it up to temp
the meter has a function to tell the difference between the sensors

thing of getting one my self
   

[Dave69]

get some card or plastic and seal the ends of the cowl to the radiator, the air flow currently is being sucked back round the front adding to your problem. It doesn't look much but at speed the airflow increases.

Plus if you can measure the in and out temps you can see how the radiator is working. removing the front winch might be the cheapest and easiest option but it wont solve the issue and you will want the winch back on at a later date.

[wildwood]

Radiator size can be calculated by our friends at Pirate..... Their rule of thumb is the cubic capacity of the engine should be complemented by the square inch age of the rad


So 401 cu in
400 square in of rad..... 20" x 20" etc etc........ And if it's multidirectional sooooo much the better.

[Bubba]

looking at pic i still consider that hose suspect ask jim if he remembers seeing the spring it is a separate spring that slips in

[wildwood]

That should say multicore......

Not multidirectional....... Bloody spell thingy

[georgen]

Get one of these, at least you can check differences in temp, I would also be looking at water flow pressure, if you put your heater dial to hot does it affect it and how hot are the heaters.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-Non-Contact-IR-Laser-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser-Temperature-Gun-UK-/390572922404?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item5aeff5d624

[ferretjuggler]

FFS that's peanuts.

BD was recently moaning about the heater being crap.

I wonder if the water pump is actually doing anything?
Couldn't be something as simple as the impeller fell off could it?

Cooling system would still work on thermo syphon.
Up to a point.

[Bulldog67]

heater is shite, but that is the fan, there is heat that comes out of it but just not with any vigour - and it doesnt affect the temp of the engine

is a 16 psi radiator cap a 16 psi radiator cap or am I looking for somnething specific?

cheers Georgen - FJ is right - that is peanuts! will it be as accurate as BJZJ thing?

that thing on the hose extends inside - how far would the spring go?

will look into blocking the shroud totally

[georgen]

thats what im thinking, semi blocked or pump failure, when its up to running temp like normal, is top and bottom hose on rad the same temp or in the same ballpark, also the pipes that go to you heater matrix, one in and one out are these hot, also are the hoses hard as fook, soft as fook or somewhere in the middle to squeeze.