Topic: Right, this is serious!! (Read 46968 times)

JamesH · « **Reply #100 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:42:11 AM »

Gearing doesn't entirely compensate for bigger tyres in my experience, even if you add a bit more than the maths says you need. There's still an increase in strain and loss of power feeling. This all tends to mean more heat

wildwood · « **Reply #101 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:50:26 AM »

As I said on other gearing posts....... The YJ on 33s and 4.56 was a little hot rod but on 35s was a dog that laboured in top at 50 gagging for a down change........ And ran HOT above 65
So that was why I had elec pusher fan to help.........
Slow down to 50 and all went cool.........
Never got more than warm offroad........

Got a feeling this is the root of Ade's probs.......

Also try the measurement trick square ins for cubic ins....... 401ci needs 401 square ins of cooling.

ferretjuggler · « **Reply #102 on:** June 04, 2014, 02:33:11 PM »

Ade has gone from ( I think) 4.10 to 4.88 on the axles which lowers by 19%
But fitted a Milemarker kit which raises by 16%.

Self defeating really.

Time to loose the Milemarker and go back to the standard Quadratrac

wildwood · « **Reply #103 on:** June 04, 2014, 02:56:06 PM »

Milemarker kit was a bit $$$$$ back in the day.
Got a feeling good old 2 wheel drive with FWHUBS will get you back in the zone gear wise and I guess is going to cost you a Dana300 .......

Oops £££££££££

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #104 on:** June 04, 2014, 03:02:13 PM »

The mile marker is a p/t 2wd job

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #105 on:** June 04, 2014, 03:04:42 PM »

And would the 16% overdrive not put less stress on the engine at m/way speeds?

You are right tho its gone 4. 10 to 4.88

j33pky · « **Reply #106 on:** June 04, 2014, 03:58:45 PM »

You have the 16% overdrive Unit? Dear God.. You may as well kill yourself now.!

but I'm a kind hearted fellow and I will relive you of this demon and give you £50 in return

that's what friends are for

wildwood · « **Reply #107 on:** June 04, 2014, 04:40:19 PM »

Trawling my brain cell on this one

But does the Milemarker overdrive fit after the BW quadratrac TC?

Seem to remember Andrew at Lighties saying that the Tc is prone to not liking being run in 2 WD
Much the same as it doesn't like much more than 250 horses up its jacksie.....something to do with the chain drive pulling the 2 gears towards each other and.......

BANG, SPLIT TC.

Might be wrong but think that's the just of what he told me

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #108 on:** June 04, 2014, 05:12:47 PM »

Quote from: j33pky on June 04, 2014, 03:58:45 PM

You have the 16% overdrive Unit? Dear God.. You may as well kill yourself now.! but I'm a kind hearted fellow and I will relive you of this demon and give you £50 in return that's what friends are for

will swap you for a 401

did some googlin before buying and there are doods that dont like it for hardcore wheeling but didnt hear of any going bang

j33pky · « **Reply #109 on:** June 04, 2014, 05:50:03 PM »

Quote from: wildwood on June 04, 2014, 04:40:19 PM

Trawling my brain cell on this one

But does the Milemarker overdrive fit after the BW quadratrac TC?

Seem to remember Andrew at Lighties saying that the Tc is prone to not liking being run in 2 WD
Much the same as it doesn't like much more than 250 horses up its jacksie.....something to do with the chain drive pulling the 2 gears towards each other and.......

BANG, SPLIT TC.

Might be wrong but think that's the just of what he told me

I read they don't like worn chains! Bang.. Split caseing. And since you can't buy anything other than a shit Chinese chain... New chain every service. And since the clutch packs are unavailable the 2wd kit males sence

ferretjuggler · « **Reply #110 on:** June 04, 2014, 09:23:10 PM »

Clutch cones etc are a PITA I'm surprised that some enterprising individual hasn't got to grips with making replacement ones.
The Chinese chains are aledgedly good for 30-40,000 miles OEM ones maybe 100K.

Timing chain makers Cloyes apparently make a chain which is better quality than OEM but they are unavailable most of the time.
Gotta wait until they do a batch then buy enough to last the rest of your lifetime.
Long term commitment required for serious FSJ ownership

Dave69 · « **Reply #111 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:08:57 PM »

Quote from: ferretjuggler on June 04, 2014, 07:50:03 AM

I'm kinda thinking that if turbulence from the front axle caused a build up of air pressure under the hood, the resulting air flow through the rad might be close to zero
[/quote

again what is required is the temperature in and temperature out on the radiator, this is the only way to tell that the cooling system is working and at this point it is irrelevant what gearbox/transfer case id fitted and their respective heat generation.

if running slow is no issue then the temp difference will be large, what is needed is the temp difference running at speed where the problem is, i would expect a differential of 2-3 deg C.

If Mr Juggler is correct on the assumption that lift changes the pressure in the engine bay, then what might be a good test is fitting an under tray and see what happens. thin corrugated plastic should be good for a test plus it should clear the underside of the engine with relevant cut outs. doesnt need to be perfet as you will want to remove it quickly if required

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #112 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:12:50 PM »

I have the gun Dave, hopefully will get to take a run at the weekend

Dave69 · « **Reply #113 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:19:51 PM »

if you dont know how bad the cooling is you cant work out a repair plan

Dave The Sparky · « **Reply #114 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:39:26 PM »

This thread has more mystery,suspense and twists and turns than an Agatha Christie novel.

All you need now is a fat Belgium man with a dodgy accent and moustache who happens to be on holiday in Kent to work out the mystery for you.

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #115 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:43:28 PM »

so when are you down this way then Dave?

Dave The Sparky · « **Reply #116 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:48:08 PM »

I only have one of the traits listed and i have no wish to holiday in Kent at the moment either.....

Dave The Sparky · « **Reply #117 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:50:48 PM »

I have no plans to come down South at the moment, as far as i know the shredders are all shredding beautifully.

We could stick your Chief through one and see how it stands up, now that would make for a good You Tube video, id pay to see that.

j33pky · « **Reply #118 on:** June 05, 2014, 08:29:11 AM »

Especially if he drives it in!

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #119 on:** June 09, 2014, 02:40:53 PM »

It didnt reach overheating as I have just been on B roads to work and back but what goes thru the bottom pipe is about 20 degrees lower that the top pipe, plus if Im running but static and the fans are going the top pipe reduces pretty quick as well, would guesstimate about 10 degrees in under 30 sec

So its not the fans ....?

Only time it got to the edge of the red was on a dual carriageway after I had been driving for about 40 mins, so its undeniably an issue attached to that type of road

Not done any new bits yet coz Im still waiting for them

Nosebolt · « **Reply #120 on:** June 09, 2014, 03:02:52 PM »

an easy and cheap way to get an indication if the problem is related to airflow would be to cut a piece of hardboard to bridge the front bumper to the axle for the full width of the car does not have to be perfect and can be fitted with tag ties its just a temp way to re-route the air for a test, once you identify a set journey that will overheat the car then fit the board and try again.

wildwood · « **Reply #121 on:** June 09, 2014, 03:06:29 PM »

Nice one Bruce......

Just made me think about the YJ that has a piece of rubber sheeting from just after rad to under the sump to presumably do the trick of stopping the air turbulence.

And maybe helping the cooling....

Think we might be getting somewhere

Dave69 · « **Reply #122 on:** June 09, 2014, 08:17:08 PM »

if your getting a delta of 20 deg C then and the top hose is reducing in temperature then the radiator is doing its job, so no worries on spending much moolar fitting a bigger rad and new fans.

as i have said you now need to close the gaps from the fan shroud to the radiator, this will stop any hot air being sucked to the front of the radiator repeatedly and create an undertray for the underside of the engine which Nosebolt has also mentioned.

if you not sure what to do look at a normal modern road car as they always have one fitted. reason being is to reduce engine noise and aid in movement of air from the engine bay.

then see what happens

eastryjeep · « **Reply #123 on:** June 11, 2014, 07:38:28 PM »

I've been baffled by this thread for some time but just went back to the photo of the fan and shroud and had a brain fart!
Obviously the cooling system is doing what it is supposed to in the broad sense but is marginal or failing at speed, which is when the engine and slush box are both generating a high degree of heat.
Also we accept that the fans themselves dont give additional cooling when at speed either.
My theory is that the fan shroud is mounted too close to the back of the rad and that it is only allowing decent laminar flow through in front of the fans themselves, if the shroud was moved back a few inches to allow better flow everywhere else then the problem should go away.

isle of man · « **Reply #124 on:** June 11, 2014, 07:57:53 PM »

Is the buggah advanced ?? Timing that is.

Author Topic: Right, this is serious!! (Read 46968 times)

ferretjuggler

j33pky

j33pky

ferretjuggler

j33pky

Nosebolt

eastryjeep