Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: BIGDRY on February 01, 2016, 11:15:29 PM
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Right my new toy after my brief first test drive, refuses to idle or run cleanly. So after much googling... it seems i have to do the nutter conversion to go with my weber carb. anyone done this? im also thinking i need to sort out all the installation in the engine bay full stop.
im thinking:
re fitting the stock air cleaner to weber with conversion plate,
try to connect the breather system (not sure if this possible without the carb ecu etc)
fit correct fuel filter with return fuel line spigot, new fuel lines too. So fuel pressure will be correct.
new spark plugs - what are correct type?
do i need to upgrade the dizzy cap and arm as per "team rush" conversion.
blank off or remove egr valve and blank.
and finally remove carb ecu and all old non needed wiring.
Has anyone done any of these and got any pointers? a pic of de-carb pcm wired engine bay would be most helpful! seems mostly redundant tbh! cheers
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I would start by ignoring most of what you read on the internet.
Hope this helps.
https://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/4412.pdf (https://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/4412.pdf)
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thanks for the link. so what points should i ignore? :icon_winkle:
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make sure the webber being used is supplied fuel at the correct pressure.
setting the idle of the webber is the important part of the setup, get this wrong and forget about the carb ever working right when your driving along
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So elex fuel pump or factory mechanical?
Any ways beware ...... I believe Nosebolt had an issue with fuel pressure that filled his sump with fuel and caused damage......but this was on a 360..... So maybe a different kettle but I think not.
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Ive read that if you use a fuel filter with a return outlet the pressure from mech pump will be ok?? Any one got this carb and can they confirm or deny? I haven't got a regulator currently and am using the own mech pump...
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got a facet electric pump and regulator on mine, no issues so far and oil doesn't smell of petrol.
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I am no expert on carbs but i would start with a timing gun and see where its set to.
As i found out the setting isn't what it says in the Jeep manual with the Weber it should be about 8 to 9 Deg at idle.(if you can get it to idle)
My timing was way out and mine ran the same way as you are describing..
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dont forget that's with the dizzy vacuum advance disconnected and blanked
what size webber?
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weber 32/36. so you dont run any vacuum supply to dizzy ?? is that with ecu "nutter delete"?
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Didnt i tell you to ignore the internet?? ... :icon_biggrin:
There is no Ecu or nutter delete required with the Weber, it just needs fuel and an electric supply for the choke which should come from the oil pressure switch so the choke only opens when you have oil pressure i.e the engine is running.
The engine ECU if you still have one wants removing and placing in a museum as its of no use to you whatsoever.
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The nutter is basically shorting out the ecu which controls the carb controls that were fitted as part of the emissions improvement during the 80s. process done when changing to a weber and removal of unwanted electrical controls and tubing
Very good weber set up thread,
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-set-up-tune-discussion-1051137/
nutter bypass info
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/electrical/jn-ignition99/