Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: Jeeper Creeper on May 27, 2009, 10:13:27 AM
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Received it from Llama yesterday and was gonna start on it today but it's pissing down
hopefully it's nicer tomorrow.
Anyways, will I need a spring compressor or any other unusual tools?
Cheers
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you will need a spring compressor mate. if you follow the instructions with the kit you should have it done in a day/day and half.
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didn't see any instructions... gonna go look again.
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instructions can be downloaded here (http://http://www.roughcountry.com/install/PERF1652.pdf)
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if you buy the spring compressor type that consists of two long rods and a small hook at each end make sure they are sitting sound while you compress the spring, if not then serious injury might be inflicted.
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yup. be careful with them.
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Got one wheel up and need advice already
How do I get the bolt on top of the shock off? Badly rusted and the shock just turns around.
What do you guys do to keep it from turning?
EDIT: got it off with some help from my neighbour. Now fitting the new longer spring is gonna be a mission...
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if your binning the old suspension then it doesn't matter how it comes off so there is no real need to be nice if the bolts are siezed in place. an angle grinder helps wonders or some vice grip pliers. just dont go cutting the dampers in half as they have pressure and oil inside
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stilsons
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The front done! Gonna have a sandwich and start on the back. Will post some pics later.
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Urgent help required: how do I get the top nut of the rear shock off? The shock disappears behind the frame and I can't see it's top end.
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From memory it's two 13mm bolts either side of the shock - I can double check on my spare Wrangler when I get home.
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But how do I get to the top one?
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I never owned one, but....
From http://www.4x4xplor.com/nth-shockshifters.html (http://www.4x4xplor.com/nth-shockshifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
1. To begin the installation of your new Nth Degree Mobility Shock Shifters, remove the rear shocks from your Jeep TJ using a 13mm socket and 12" extension for the top frame mounts and a 15mm socket and 18mm wrench for lower the axle mounts.
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Either they are not 13mm or my socket didn't go on properly, keeps slipping every time I try turn it. But never mind I'll do the back next week. It claimed a quoter of my tooth and my arms in too much pain as it is. Gonna buy a longer extension and jet wash the underside so I don't get showered with dirt.
Anyways some before and after pics. When it's finished I'll add some afterer pics.
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/B4.jpg)
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/Closeup.jpg)
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/Afterdriversside.jpg)
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/Afterpassengerside.jpg)
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:lol:
you`re gonna neeeeeed bigger wheels
look forward to part deux
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I'd rather there was no part deux but there is no way back now.
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good for you!
no likes saggy bums
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cool upside down front shocks. that is a nice change. the rear shock bolts usualy break and are just a bastard. you cant get to the top as it is a captive nut. sometimes they spin but usualy the break. drill and tappin time mate wear yer goggles cos swarf aint nice in yer eye holes.
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Man.... really not looking forward to it.
Anything can be done to avoid them snap?
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Greggmo - His shocks might be the right way up, that's the way my Bilstein's had to be fitted
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Ah! Brings back memories of my solo attempt at a lift install. Whole weekend of banged head, scraped knuckled, aching arms and full vocabulary of expletives. Just remember it'll be well worth it when you get there.
Nowt wrong with shocks on that way, mine are that way too so it must be right
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Is it easy to take out the petrol tank?
With it out I'd have a better access and hopefully could clean up the threads before attempting to remove the bolts.
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Depends how much petrol you have in the tank - relatively painless task.
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you might need a wheel barrow for the tank removal.........
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9337 (http://birtydastardsjeepclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9337" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
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Man the old wheel barrow technique... :lol:
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i didnt sugest the shock where wrong but they are upside downies. you really dont need to move the tank to fit a lift mate. way more work than ya need to do.
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you really dont need to move the tank to fit a lift mate. way more work than ya need to do.
But you yourself said the bolts may snap and if they do then the tank will definitely have to come out and there will be the extra work of sorting it all out. I did have a peek through the gap above the frame and the bolts look rusty as hell. So I reckon might as well do it the hard way and might save myself the extra work later.
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just soak em in wd or diesel and try em. they might come out and they might brake but movin the tank aint gonna help ya get at em anyway to be honest. the exhaust is sort of in the way but just use a load of extension bars to reach em. trust me we've done a few. if they brake just drill and tap em. it is the easier way honest mate. even if you can get at the back of the nuts you wont hold em without them snapin anyway and good luck getting a new nut in the same space. just tryin to help mate. by all means do it your way but tank out seems like a hell of a mess about to me when they might even just come out.
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I'll see how I feel about it Monday. Don't really mind the extra work, it'd give me a chance to clean the dirt out and see what's what. Might even get the snapped back seat bolts out if that's where they are.
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put up a photo of the bolts your on about mate. just so i know we are talkin about the same thing?
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I'm talking about the 4 bolts that hold the upper ends of the rear shocks. I only mentioned the back seat because 2 out of the 4 bolts holding it to the floor have snapped (didn't know there was an easy way to remove the seat).
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I’ve done mine and two other TJs in the last three years and I didn’t have to remove the tank. As Greggmo says, if the bolts holding the top bar-pins look rusty, then give them a good soaking with WD40 or penetrating oil etc. then use a suitably long extension bar and just reach up and carefully undo the bolts and keep your fingers crossed. I’ve never had a problem with the bolts breaking etc.
The chances are that if the bar-pin bolts have rusted to a point where they break whilst undoing them, then the tank bolts might be the same, again I didn’t have ant problems removing mine! Or using a wheelbarrow.
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The tank is off and the driver's side been done. Gonna do the other side now but one of the bolts is a bit chewed up, will have to come up with something clever to get it out.
Unfortunately I broke the plastic thingy that connects the three petrol pipes together behind the tank. Any ideas where to get a replacement fast?
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lighthouse for the thingy, if not then its stealer
cant believe you took the tank out, but good luck on the chewed up bolt
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if you onlu have one chewed up bolt then you have been doing well. get a photobucket account and post some pictures
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All I have left is that one bolt and put the tank back in (and find a thingy).
If anyone has any ideas or suggestions please share them with me. Would be nice to get it sorted tomorrow but haven't got a clue what to do with that bolt.
Cheers
Edit: the 13mm socket just slips when I turn it a bit harder.
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/damagednut.jpg)
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You probably need a six-sided socket.
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As Tim said go 6 sided - and maybe a 1/2" will fit over??
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Or hammer a 12mm on to it..............
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they are 1/2 not 13. yanks dont like mm's remember.
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I was thinking six-sided socket too. Hopefully I can find a 1/2" one tomorrow.
Thanks guys
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i am thinkin drill and tap is the future but good luck dood. still cant beleive you took the tank out.
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i am thinkin drill and tap is the future but good luck dood. still cant beleive you took the tank out. =D> Well ya gotta give JC credit, he's stuck with it. Hopefully the torment will end in success
Maybe a trip to Machine Mart and get the set of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5PC-IRWIN-BOLT-GR ... 7C294%3A24 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5PC-IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-EXTRACTOR-SET-USA-MADE-TOOL-IN-CASE_W0QQitemZ120371955713QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item1c06ba4801&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A2%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A24" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
Drilliing it out would work though. The heat generated by the drilling may well loosen the bugger enough, to get him out using a 1/2 socket? 13mm is a bit too big for this job.
Im sure the thingy could be replaced by a Zip Tie?
If not? ave a butchers on here: http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/index.asp (http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/index.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
ATB
Mark
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try a 1/2" Impact socket
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still cant beleive you took the tank out. 
It's good to get familiar with your car and it's very dirty, the poor thing needs a bath.
Got to wait till 2pm to borrow the company car so I can go looking for bits
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JC just use my excuse, "I'm taking it off to paint it so it don't go rusty" it's the perfect excuse when you do a job the hard way
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This is the petrol line thingy I broke:
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/petrollinethingy.jpg)
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most car spares shops sell universal fuel line T piece for about 2 quid,
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This is the petrol line thingy I broke:
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/petrollinethingy.jpg)
There on here:
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/tees-178-c.asp (http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/tees-178-c.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
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They sell pipe fittings for poly tube in B&Q.
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multipoint sockets are bad for siezed bolts. get a hex or 6 point socket and you should either get the bolt out or shear it off.
a motorfactors should be able to sort you out with a plstic T piece for the fuel pipe
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I go to Halfords part's counter and ask for a six-sided 1/2" socket. The guy checks the socket cabinet and tells me they don't stock them. Walking away I notice a box of sockets at the end of his counter "£5 for two or £3 each". The first socket I pick up is 1/2" six-sided
Anyway, it did the job quite well and the suspension is now done. Just got to put the tank back in.
T piece of the right size was impossible to find anywhere so I went to PIRTEK and got myself a proper posh one:
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/Tpiece.jpg)
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Hope that's brass or copper rated for petrol, as regular copper is unsuitable for petrol lines.
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I think it's brass as it's pale yellow. Copper is dark reddish colour isn't it?
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Pirtek allegedly know what they're doing, so as long as you told them it was for petrol, you'll be fine.
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I did tell them what's for so should be alright.
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Project "suspension lift" has been complete!
The ride is nice but I now bounce about even more than before.
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/25lift.jpg)
Is that enough for a sock travel? It's not going to bottom up or something?
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/rearshockgap.jpg)
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:lol:
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Is that enough for a sock travel? It's not going to bottom up or something?
my socks travel all the way up my feet to my ankles
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horray `lift` beers pls
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Is that enough for a sock travel? It's not going to bottom up or something?
my socks travel all the way up my feet to my ankles
I reckon he is on a wind up CC, the dood wears sandals:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9798&start=25 (http://www.birtydastardsjeepclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9798&start=25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
That's why he is Jeeper Creeper, shortened that stands as JC, which as we all know, is that bloke Jesus Christ from that story book some nutters love, hence the footwear, its all bloody obvious really
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Brian wore sandles as well....
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(http://http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/9/90/Chapman_as_Brian.jpg)
Oi, leave me out of this!
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those shocks look to me like they will bottom out way before you hit the bump stops. did they not send some bump stop extensions with you lift kit?
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lookin at it mate i think the bump stop is built into your shocks with those big rubber bumpers. might be ok mate.
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I did get 2" pucks to extend the bumpstops but I requested them to be sent to me so I can put 33" tyres on. The lift is designed for 31" tyres and doesn't come with bumpstops I believe. So didn't bother fitting them in, good for 31" must be good for 27". But even with the 2" bumpstop extensions the gap will be way bigger than the amount of down travel those shocks have. A bit worrying to be honest.
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Is that enough for a sock travel? It's not going to bottom up or something?
my socks travel all the way up my feet to my ankles
I reckon he is on a wind up CC, the dood wears sandals:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9798&start=25 (http://www.birtydastardsjeepclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9798&start=25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
That's why he is Jeeper Creeper, shortened that stands as JC, which as we all know, is that bloke Jesus Christ from that story book some nutters love, hence the footwear, its all bloody obvious really 
SLIPPERS! They are my comfortable leather slippers!
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you wont clear 33's with that lift mate. on road maybe. those shocks do look a bit long to be honest. give em a shout and check they sent the rigt ones for your kit.
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Will give RC a call on Monday.
Got another question...
The instructions say to check if it goes into 4H or is it 4L and it does but my gears feel different and maybe the clutch too. All the gears that are selected by pulling the lever (2nd,4th and reverse) don't go in as nicely as before, as if they don't go in all the way. And the clutch feels like it's not disengaging totally and it's especially felt when selecting the reverse. Can those things be affected by a lift?
EDIT: Transfer case drop 1".
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....... Can those things be affected by a lift?
EDIT: Transfer case drop 1".
Yes they can be as the rubber gaiter around the gear lever could be blocking the gear lever from engaging properly as the box has been dropped.
After I fitted my lift, I dropped my box using piles of large penny-washers and longer skid-plate bolts, but I decided that I would fit a 1” engine mount lift kit instead and remove the washers.
Here’s a photo of what I fitted
(http://http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j272/mmore514/DSCN3328.jpg)
But you’ll also have to think about lifting the radiator; some kits come with the brackets. I’ve already got an electric fan fitted, so it was not a problem for me. I think you could also get away with fitting a 1” body lift which will help with fitting those 33” tyres. But next you’ll need a re-gear! Once you start, it never seems to stop.
(http://http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j272/mmore514/DSCN3342.jpg)
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Just been down under and yes the lever is pressing against the rubber gaiter making it harder to to select gears.
But that's because the lever has bends in it. I reckon if it was straight or less bent there would be no probs.
Suggestions?
(http://http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa66/tadaska/gearleaver.jpg)
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According to some dude on JP forums RC performance 2.2 shocks are too long and they know it. Phoned up David at Llama and he's gonna give them a call. I hope they send me a replacement. Those are only good for flat roads when I go over bigger bumps they kick my back up.
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An update:
New shocks arrived yesterday and were fitted today.
Front ones are the same length, the back ones 1/2 inch sorter. Will be OK for road use IMO, for off-roading... don't know, never done any.
Replaced the whole lot. Even the front ones despite them being the same length. And boy am I glad I did! What a difference the new shocks made! Before the ride was so bouncy it was making people feel sick! Now it's so much smoother. Looks like they had more than just a length problem. I'm glad it's been sorted, now I can drive without having to hold tight onto the steering wheel.
Big thanks do David from Llama 4X4 for organising a replacement for me! Can't recommend him highly enough!