Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: rgib on August 14, 2009, 10:36:01 PM
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My 96 XJ diesel failed its mot today. Due to extensive corrosion to floor below rear seats around rear spring mounts, have been advised the vehicle is 'dangerous to be driven'.
My dilemma is should I have repairs done or should I consider replacing the car. Have been advised that welding repairs would not be as strong as an original floor. I intend taking the car offroad and am concerned if welded repairs would be able to cope with any flexing such use would involve.
Any advice/suggestions as always gratefully received.
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Repairs will be fine if done properly. Problem is, depending on the extent of the rot, to do a nice job of it may prove very time consuming and expensive.
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the strength of any weld repairs depends upon the person and experience they have. A good welder's repair should be as strong as the origional. When instigating the repair, the metal in most cases will be slightly thicker than origional and additional strengthening can be included. If your worried about flex affecting the repair then replace the cills with box section as this will reduce the flex through the floor.
As for cost this can be anything, do it yourself and it only costs time and the sheet metal, pay someone else and the cost will be slightly more.
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if you are unable to weld and dont know a tame welder your best option may be to buy another xj it may well cost les than the repairs to yours
sadly
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the strength of any weld repairs depends upon the person and experience they have. A good welder's repair should be as strong as the origional. When instigating the repair, the metal in most cases will be slightly thicker than origional and additional strengthening can be included. If your worried about flex affecting the repair then replace the cills with box section as this will reduce the flex through the floor.
As for cost this can be anything, do it yourself and it only costs time and the sheet metal, pay someone else and the cost will be slightly more.
Please forgive me for hijacking this thread, but my XJ suffers from disolved sills.. I was simly going to patch up the rotten area (The car will be used for mainly off roading so doesn't need to look like new) but the thought of cutting out the front and bottom of the sill and replacing it with a good sturdy length of box does appeal
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it works very well you can hi lift off them me and lard have done it before
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Was thinking of the possibillity of jacking off the new sills perhaps cut some slots to accept the jack... What size box did you use? I guess that you simply cut off the old sill and seam welded top and bottom along the cut
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it 100x100 box
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if you have the option of thin wall or thick, go for the thick and added strength
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Thanks guys... If given the option of thin and flimsy or thick and solid then it is thick and solid every time... I have a nasty habit of breaking stuff.. I'm pretty new to green laning , used to do a lot of wadi bashing and playing in the dunes out in Dubai which was a hoot
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Hi guys and thanks for the replies. You have suitably reassured me re welding which I'm glad about as I dont want to change the car. One of my daughters mates dad welds and is approachable and seemed keen to bugger about with my sooty turbo last time I was round there so will be contacting him when he gets back from his hols. At least i can do some prep like removing seats and carpets etc.
Whats the best thing for cutting out the bad bits - I've got a dremmel or does it need something more powerful???
Thanks again for your interest
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for cutting metal a dremmel will be a bit lite weight. angle grinder is the way to go 6" or bigger but be wary as the sparks will go eveywhere. Get stuck in with him and learn whilst watching and helping
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Hi Dave, Ive got an angle grinder but dont think it takes as big as 6" , I'll check in the morning. I'll definitely be learning what I can about welding as I have a feeling this could be on-going..... I live on the sea front (nice for the view, not for the car)
Cheers
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Standard small angle grinder is good, try and use the really thin 1mm cutting discs and buy plenty off them. Also reciprocating saw and jigsaw can be useful and don't throw sparks everywhere.
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I find that a 4 inch grinder does pretty much everything that I need and they get in where a larger grinder can't but my reciprocating saw is good too and as already said, not so many sparks... My tip would be to buy a decent quality tool.. Cheap Makro tools may sound good value but really don't last... Had my little Bosch for years
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Thanks for the advice re small angle grinder. I've got a jigsaw but what is a reciprocating saw??
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Thanks for the advice re small angle grinder. I've got a jigsaw but what is a reciprocating saw??
recip, think big jigsaw where the blade comes out inline with the handle and the blade is about 4 times the size and no guide
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fweirdoftheday.files.wordpress.com%2F2009%2F03%2Fjr3070ct_act_21.jpg&hash=27c1ccd335b5a1b1d0d45df7db9e09bc595b48df)
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That looks serious - I'd have to hide that from my son :icon_eek:
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That's what I have!... they're great for ripping through plasterboard, timber and floor boards but they can be a bit iffy on thin metalwork... You have to hold them rigid otherwise you can find yourself cuttin all sorts of things... Some stuff you might not want to cut...
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Hi,
Finally got welding done and re-presented for mot and failed again. More welding required and some other things including rear spring bush and steering damper both gone. The latter 2 are items I already have as I have had a 3 inch lift waiting to go on for about a year and a half and at the time bought a steering damper as well. Had a go at replacing the steering damper and got the nuts undone no prob but cannot get threaded bit knocked out. I bought a pickle fork but broke one side of the fork off after about quarter of an hour of sustained hammering. Has anyone had the same problem and found a solution? I'm worried if I keep hammering I may break something else.
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Been there done that ...sent it to a garage in the end ...
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Rip the damper off the tapered pin then twist the pin out of the drag link with Stilsons or a deep socket and breaker bar.
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Brute!
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Hi rgrb
I had the same prob. pulled my hair out nearly.. my partner walks in the garage and calmly says ... why don't you freeze it as metal contracts when cold!!
I used a can of freezer spray bought from a plumbers .. one whack and out it came.
simples
hope it works for you too
Phill
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Thanks, Phill - I'll definitely try that. I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers, Robert
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:icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin:Hey Phill - It worked!! Cheers Buddy :icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin:
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Sweet :icon_biggrin:
Phill