Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: doublej on December 07, 2009, 10:21:20 PM
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trying to figure out british bolts sizes.....
if a bolt is marked say M3, i know its not a 3mill socket for the head.
how do i know what size the head is without putting a tool on it?
is there a quick ref sheet i can print out to use.
would help alot with ordering things too.....
thanks guys
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what you need is a Zeus Book, about 6 quid from any enginering factors.
as for metric threads; M8x1.25 for example would be 8mm outer dia of thread with 1.25mm pitch
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check here (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-threads-d_777.html)
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I think JJ is looking more at the hex size for a bolt/nut with a specific thread.
ie, 8mm thread has a 13mm hex head ?
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thanks that is useful, but Lornaben is right. I know you can get just about anything combo of head and shank size. But looking for something like threaded adapters they sell them off the shank size. which does me no good cause i have no idea till i get it what size bolt fits it.
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Is this what ya lookin for JJ
http://www.boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Bolts/Metric-Bolt-Head-Size.aspx (http://www.boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Bolts/Metric-Bolt-Head-Size.aspx)
:greggmo:
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bolts aren't marked up with their respective size. normally they are maked for tensile strength. the number 8 on the head is a std strength and any higher means a stronger bolt where a higher load can be applied. cap head bolts are normally 13.
english bolts are a pain in the arse since there are so many different types even though some look the same. these are normally measured on the overall bolt thread diameter and how many teeth there are per measured inch. then there are fine and coarse threads as well, hence the potential for confusion.
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Warthog know all on this subject mate :smiley-whacky084:
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mick o - thanks i think youve found it mate!!! :icon_super:
dave69 your killin me man - all this crap i do and you think i dont know bolt basics..........
and sorry asylum,......warthog came up empty on this one, hence why i knew it was basic common know-how stuff
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Cool
:greggmo:
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Dont forget that during to WWII, Imperia (whitworth)l bolt heads were actually dropped in size by a total of 1/16th (1/32th off each of the 6 sides)
Reason for this?
To save on a raw material use.
However, Halfrauds does'nt abide by this (UK) ruling (Imperial Sockets) and thier sockets read differently to most other makes :hysterical:
Asylum and I have had a few arguments about it :hysterical:
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OK I'm bored and a sad git but just been reading this, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw) didn't realise the humble bolt had such a history
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I've got a set of whitworth sockets from my granddad or my dad's handed down stuff, also ring spanners .... never come out of the garage but are sure as hell useful for fitting some stuff thats worn, rusted, or well Jeep user abused. Especially the sockets helped on by a BFH :icon_super:
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the easiest way forward for you JJ since you have a welder and like to overkill everything, LOL. where you have access swap the bolt points to metric. or drill out the imperial and re-tap to a metric. or just tack weld a metric nut onto the back of the hole. At least you wont need to get confused about the imperial threads
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I know this has been covered on here, but it's been a while, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
Does anyone consider the effect of lubrication on torque?
Generally, I don't! :017:
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi82.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj272%2Fmmore514%2FDSCN2269.jpg&hash=c7d99574378035e84b9d9e37a4fa11e0ad6afde0)
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I know this has been covered on here, but it's been a while, so I thought I'd bring it up again.
Does anyone consider the effect of lubrication on torque?
Generally, I don't! :017:
Dont forget to add Threadlock and Studlock to that list :icon_biggrin:
Hey JJ, just throw away all those sockets and get 6" 10" 14" Adjustable and one of these: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Crescent-RapidRench-Ratchet-Socket-Wrench-649535.htm (http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Crescent-RapidRench-Ratchet-Socket-Wrench-649535.htm) :icon_winkle:
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Hey JJ, just throw away all those sockets and get 6" 10" 14" Adjustable and one of these: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Crescent-RapidRench-Ratchet-Socket-Wrench-649535.htm (http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Crescent-RapidRench-Ratchet-Socket-Wrench-649535.htm) :icon_winkle:
another stupid idea - seen that kind of thing way to many time and never heard of one holding up in a real shop. ill give one to my mom for christmas for the kitchen.
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another stupid idea - seen that kind of thing way to many time and never heard of one holding up in a real shop. ill give one to my mom for christmas for the kitchen.
Use the good old adjustable daily at work! Never fails, very versatile! Undo/do-up, hit things with'em. Oh and if you got the larger sizes, can may pretty good pry bar :hysterical:
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i know exactly where you going with that.
wet torques can be critical if used in a place where there is constant vibration, on an engine of vehicle those figures don't mean anything since it isn't run constantly.
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i know exactly where you going with that.
wet torques can be critical if used in a place where there is constant vibration, on an engine of vehicle those figures don't mean anything since it isn't run constantly.
Guess were in the realms of "Lockwire" then?
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it depends on how trusting you are with what you are tightening up. Lockwire is a sfety approach and in most cases on vehicles again is not needed. The only time i have lockwired items on a vehicle is the sump plug, oil filler cap and filter on my race bike. I did the front caliper bolts but then stop doing it as it wasn't needed.
Most bolt threads do have a maximum torque figure for the size and thread pitch, going by this will be more than adequate. You could use an anti-shake washer to stop the bolt or nut undoing. Spring washers are ok but they loose their effect very quickly, the better type are the serrated washers as these tend to bite more into the mating faces of the bolt/nut