Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: prophet on March 15, 2010, 06:02:48 PM
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I've been quoted £150 for new front discs and pads (fitted) for my Cherokee, is that a reasonable price? When I started looking online, the prices seemed dirt cheap.. but once I've added postage/vat/fitting the figures start to rise! (Being a bit mechanicaly handicapped, I need somebody else to fit the discs.)
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Say 40 minutes labour plus the parts.....
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Sounds reasonable to get the job done at a garage.
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the hardest bits of changing discs and pads is bleeding the brakes after. £150 is not bad but does that include the vat ?
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Have I missed something about XJ brakes :017: Why do they need bleeding after pad and disc change ?
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Have I missed something about XJ brakes :017: Why do they need bleeding after pad and disc change ?
Nope shouldn't need doing, I agree....
TBH changing brake discs and pads is very easy on a Cherokee, not much harder than changing a wheel... there are only two bolts holding the caliper on, that's it... haynes manual should have enough details?
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just do it as a matter of course. pads and disks change so you might as well purge the system with fresh fluid.
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If they are anything like a TJ then pulling the caliper away can be done by a mechanical buffoon.....
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Or a cabbage....
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Mr Cabbage if you please... :hysterical:
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Maybe I've handed the job over to the professionals a bit prematurely then if it's not too hard a job..
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Don't listen to Mr. Cabbage he has the brains of a jelly snake!!!!
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he aint that smart .....but it is an easy job
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Shiny new discs and pads fitted yesterday.. all was well until I was half way home and the driver's side brake jammed on. It's going back to the garage tomorrow. It seems ok when cold, but I reckon the piston is seizing up when it gets warm. The garage guy on the phone said I might need a new caliper, but everything was ok before they changed the pads.
Quietly fuming :011: over this one.
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Same thing happened to me last week just prior to MOT .... changed 'em and one jammed on...... got well hot and cold hose sorted the prob but occurred on drive round block 10 mins later took piston out and cleaned and put back and same thing apparently the resin type pistons go oval eventually or when they get hot.... Monday ordered piston and boot and seal from Lighthouse £23.80 delivered, 20 min job MOT passed and no probs......
You wont need a new caliper...... also they cost £90 from Lighthouse (I asked) + VAT + delivery.
Good luck..... Just my opinion and experience.... so far :icon_super:
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Wedgwood is on the money!!!!
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Here's a thing..... All the shoes and pads for the brakes.... YJ .... similar... if not same as Cherry XJ cost £72.21 delivered with VAT so I don't think you're being rogered too much on the final bill if provided it's not loaded with environmental scrappage and eco brake clean lesbo tree hugger and VAT stuff as well :jump_125:
Sorry almost went off on one then...... :jpshakehead:
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Get them to grind the wear notches in the steering knuckles flush, That'll probably do it.
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Have a look at this thread, it should be exactly the same on a XJ: http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=9334.0 (http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=9334.0)
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This business about sticky pistons - would that cause grabby brakes?
Sometimes (particularly when cold) the brakes on my XJ are hard to gauge and its quite easy to lock a wheel at low speeds.
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My rear brakes are sometimes a bit grabby when cold, but haven't had it happen since the Jeep has been in almost daily use. The fault here is more than just grabby.. one of the front brakes is permanently gripping the disc. It adds an element of fun to driving though, sudden changes of direction when I brake and clouds of smoke at junctions keep me on my toes.
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new pads and disks ?
these need to be bedded in so the pads wear flat to the disks. I assume you just got in and drove away.
as for a bedding in proceedure everyone has their own perfect way.
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Thought I'd update ya'll. It seems the trouble is with flexible brake pipe. The piston moved freely when the bleed nipple was cracked open and was hard work to wind back with the nipple tightened up. The mechanic said the rubber inside the flexi pipe breaks down and can form a kind of flap which allows fluid to pass, but blocks it's return. New part being fitted tomorrow..
.. while the wheel was off and the Jeep up on the ramp I had a good look at the front universal join that's been getting progressively noisier recently. There's about 2mm of slack in it. What do I do? Is there anything I can do to prolong it's life or do I have to bite the bullet and replace it? Looks expensive to me.. anybody here done this job or have any thoughts?
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If you've got the brakes off you are halfway there to changing the universal joint.
The rubber hose breakdown theory was given to me once, on speaking to Lighthouse and EDM Jeep they said no-way, replace pistons with overhaul kit, ensure pad sliding area is smooth and all should be well.
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re the hose thing lard had an elderly landy and the clutch was not operating propperly if you pushed the pedal down to disengage the clutch it was a bit heavy but worked ok but as you let the pedal up to engage the gear the pedal came up freely but the drive did not engage for several seconds as if the clutch was shot and slipping very badly it was the rubber flexy hose replaced and everything was fine
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Have had no problems since new flexi pipe thingy was fitted.. Bu then I've also cleaned out the piston and lubed it up with a little light grease.
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I meant to post this when I first read about your problems but couldn't be bothered searching it out - www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/xj-tj-zj-front-knuckle-repair-brake-pad-grooves-924713 (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/xj-tj-zj-front-knuckle-repair-brake-pad-grooves-924713)
As it surfaced on one of the other forums thought the info would be useful to you and others.
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Interesting stuff.. thanks