Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: scoobysnacks on August 03, 2010, 11:16:58 PM
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Hi, been on here for a while but not been on for ages, been a busy time! I have a Grand Cherokee Loredo 2.5TD on a P plate. It has the Command Trac 4wd system with the limited slip rear diff.
I was driving along today when I heard a loud clunk/bang from the front end. Next time I went to brake, the pedal pulsed as if the ABS was firing and braking was difficult. Had to really stand on the pedal to get the truck to stop, shaking my teeth out in the process!
The car now has a clunk when driving, and the braking problem has continued.
Just jacked her up and whipped the front wheel off, and it seems that the u-joint at the hub has lost one of it's bolts.
A couple of questions. Firstly is it worth trying to replace the bolt, or will I need to replace the whole u-joint? Secondly, might this cause the ABS/braking fault? Is the toothed wheel on the inside of the hub the ABS speed sensor? If so is it likely that it will work properly when I sort the U-joint, or might it have damaged the sensor?
I have the Haynes manual, somewhere, but we're moving soon and I think it's ended up in a box somewhere! Any help would be great. Also a link to an online copy of the workshop manual?
Cheers
Matt
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might be worth a picture being posted.
a lost bolt on the u joint at the wheel hub is confusing
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:imwitstupid:
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I'm struggling with your description - so for the UJ bolt they are a "one use" item so replace it - the drive line problem I believe the CV joint has sized, can you remove the front prop and drive without it to establish my reasoning? I'm 80% on this one.
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now i read it as one of the three bolts holding the hub has sheared/come out
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My description is a bit shoddy I grant you. Here's a pic of what I'm trying to describe.
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi35.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fd190%2Fmatt_hooks%2FUjoint.jpg&hash=8da2d4cf07085d4620cb69105e12cef1f888c676)
This is a picture of the offside front hub, taken from the front and slightly above. To the right is the brake disc. The bolt that is missing is underneath the brake pipe, and the location is circled in yellow.
On the end of the front drive shaft, where the drive joins the hub, there is a universal joint (constant velocity joint if you prefer).
One of the bolts that secures the inboard horseshoe has come loose, so that one end of the fork is loose.
Hope that makes things clearer.
Thanks for the help!
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Still not very clear but it sounds like the UJ has spat all the rollers out of one cap, or lost the cap as well. Best senario, you need a new joint, but worst way, if the hole in the yoke is oval you'll need a shaft as well.
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I'll go with that description. One cap has gone, leaving the cross shaft flapping in the breeze like a dick in a Wellington! So new U J then, how much should I be looking at for one of those, parts only? Would that explain the abs playing up too? I'll have a look at the yoke, hope it's not boogered too!
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If the cap has gone the ear will be foooooked new shaft required - I believe Eblag has them.
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ring lighthouse and see what they have, should be the same as the petrol so you have the choice of std, greasable or heavy duty. price around the £25 (might be less depending on what you choose) and then theres the next day delivery.
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Ok. Managed to get the hub off and have a look at the UJ.
The cup from one side of the inside yoke has completely disappeared. It has obviously got slightly jammed on the way out and taken a huge chunk out of the ABS ring (hence the ABS symptoms?)
I managed to get the C clip off the other cap, and wiggle the inner drive shaft off the UJ.
Went looking for the C clips to remove the caps from the outer drive shaft yoke, only to find they weren't there.
Took the wire brush to the yoke to clean it up, only to find some feckwit has welded the caps into the yoke!
Now looking at a whole new outer drive shaft and yoke, unless I can manage to get the caps out, but I'm thinking they're probable welded in place because the yoke is damaged!
I can get a complete drive shaft assembly from the scrappy. He wants £100 for it though, which I think is rich for a scrappy part. However, the other options seem more expensive.
Nobody seems to stock any of these parts, except for the UJ spider. Does anyone know where I might find them at a sensible price?
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The shaft assembly is the same as a 97 onwards XJ Cherokee 4.0 or 2.5TD with ABS. Loads around being broken up for spares.
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Scrounge an ABS ring from wherever (someone on here must have one) then get a new UJ and re-bodge it with the welder.
It may not last too long but it will buy you enough time to find a complete replacement axle mucho cheapo.
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Ferret. I would, but I'm not allowed to play with the welder any more, since I got the pacemaker! :( And paying someone to do welding is kind of alien to me. I'm a bit of a cheapskate really!
Anyone got an axle going cheap? What axels will fit, and is there a better one it's worth fitting? Bearing in mind mine's got Command Trac, does it need to come off another vehicle with that system or are they interchangeable?
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ebay
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just swap the halfshaft out, for a good one :icon_winkle:
where abouts are you
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yup where dood maybe someone could help
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Just outside Newbury.
Sourced a replacement half shaft with CV and outer drive shaft for £65 delivered. Just need to borrow a vice now so I can get the bloody hub nut off! 175 lb.ft, what's that all about? :headhack:
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stick it back on the axle, put the disc back on, then a hefty screwdiver in one of the vents and wedge it against the brake slider :icon_winkle:
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stick it back on the axle, put the disc back on, then a hefty screwdiver in one of the vents and wedge it against the brake slider :icon_winkle:
Sounds like a weird sexual practice, are you a tory MP by any chance? :lol_hitting:
It's an idea, but I have a feeling my screwdriver might give up before the nut does!
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you'd be surprised, the screwdriver will drop into the vented part of the disk and wedge against the caliper mount. there is not a big bending motion at this point so the screwdriver preobably will be intact. I have used some from the £1 shop for this and they have been ok after
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Cool. I'll have a go at that when the 36mm socket arrives. Already broke one screwdriver trying to get the ABS ring off.
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your only breaking the torque applied to the nut and not trying to remove something that is fixed solid and not intended to be removed on a regular basis like the tone ring
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your only breaking the torque applied to the nut and not trying to remove something that is fixed solid and not intended to be removed on a regular basis like the tone ring
Implying that the hub is designd to be emoved often due to failures? ;)
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the hub isn't prone to failure but needs to be removable for servicing upper and lower ball joints and driveline issues, where as the tone ring is not intended to be removed once fitted.
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the hub isn't prone to failure but needs to be removable for servicing upper and lower ball joints and driveline issues, where as the tone ring is not intended to be removed once fitted.
Haha I understand that, I was just being a little facetious.
As a matter of interest, how do people go about removing/refitting tone rings? I'd be inclined to heat it and sweat it on, is that the normal method? They seem pretty brittle, so hitting it with a hammer doesn't seem a good option.
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Nobody removes them, they are not available as a spare part, you replace the yoke complete.
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Well, managed to source a new drive shaft at a sensible price, £65 delivered. Got it all fitted on, nicely tightened up, and grabbed the brake caliper to refit it.
PING
The friction lining from the inboard brake pad completely fell off it's backing. I knew they'd got a bit warm, but not that warm! That explains the squealy brakes then!
Off in the morning to find a replacement set of brake pads, wonder if I can get them for a sensible price?
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With that news I'm thinking your brake caliper is sized FUBAR!!!
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It was seized. I stripped it and freed it up a while back, but obviously it'd damaged the pad. I'll have the caliper off again and strip it down before I put it back together, just to make sure.