Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: manicmechanic on September 23, 2010, 08:52:21 PM
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I've searched on the site but can't find anything to help us noobs buy one of these. The road car sites say buy the diesel, you say it's unreliable, someone else told me beware the diffs, could anyone let me know what weaknesses (if any) this model has? Thanks, Simon :)
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http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=12675.0 (http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=12675.0)
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deisel is very way bad please dont blow a lot of cash on repairs on a diesel the rear diff dana 35 is known to be a suspect if noisy .whering grinding or clunking early ones can be rusty the big six engine is smooth and powerfull the auto boxes are generaly very good they be well comfy init
the 2.5 4 popper is not overly powerfull and generaly no cheaper to run
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There are tips on buying littered around the site, but probably hard to find.
Avoid the diesel. It's shit. It will break and cost more than it's worth to fix it.
The 4.0 is an excellent motor. The 2.5 is OK, but when the 4.0 gets similar mpg, why bother?
Aside from the engine, get underneath and look for rusty front floorpans. Poke the sills with
a screwdriver, they develop holes. The big killer on the body is a rusty boot floor. It's hard
to see cus it's got carpet on the top, and the fuel tank is underneath. Rain gutters can also rust.
Check that the 4WD engages, it should be smooth, though they can be difficult at first cus most
people only ever use 2WD. Check that the axles are quiet. Check the fluid levels. Make sure there's
no cream inside the oil filler cap. Make sure the transmission fluid isn't burnt. Rear springs sag, and
cost 200-250 for parts alone.
Sadly, older XJs are getting to the point of being more or less worthless, and then you will probably
have to pay 200 for springs.
Other members will tell you other things to loook for.
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Thanks chaps, thats exactly the kind of stuff I'm looking for :) . I've been led to to believe that the 4.0 engine doesn't mind being run on LPG if the conversion is good? I'd struggle to deal with the fuel economy otherwise!
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Just buy a late 4.0.
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LPG is a good option. Multipoint is best - single point systems backfire and destroy the air filter
housing. Best to find one with LPG fitted, as you'll need another four figures to fit a new one.
Like Mike says, a 97 onwards Mk2 or 'facelift' is your best bet. Look for a slightly
rounded body and single piece front door windows.
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Do you go later just because it's newer, or are there other improvements? I'm definitely going towards big engine and lpg now :)
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It's newer and better. By 1997, they'd been making them for 13 years, so just about got the hang of
it. The mk2 has many improvements over the mk1, and is more comfy to boot. With such a small
price difference for a newer one, it's daft not to.
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http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/jeep/cherokee-1993 (http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/jeep/cherokee-1993)
Click on the 'what's good' and 'what's bad' tabs and there's a heap of info there.
I purchased a late 2000 60th anniversary model with multipoint LPG and am glad I did. Such a pleasure to drive. It's my 3rd Jeep.
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the mk1's aren't worth alot and if your modding then the improvements will be more thant the jeeps worth. my jeep's value is basically the lift kit as i bout it for £300. don't bother with the diesel unless you like working on cars and servicing. the mk2 will be the better option as the chassis is galvanised so wont rust unless it has been repaired in the past. basically look on flea bay to give you an idea of what the prices are. dealers will always try and get top money and over price them.
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Defo 4.0 and LPG is the way forward, if you are looking at mk1 then I would suggest a 95 onwards, (best to get a 96 registered to be on the safe side) Metal and rust proofing better, bigger UJ's, engines better, gearbox settings better (the comfort/power button was deleted). Controls like cruise better and airbag...
Rear springs sag, plenty around with sensible miles and even history, whilst the engines are good for ever as with any high mileage the rest of the truck may need more repairs.
Good luck, this book is worth getting, cheers Maf
http://www.amazon.co.uk/High-Performance-Cherokee-Builders-1984-2001-Design/dp/1932494146/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1285343697&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/High-Performance-Cherokee-Builders-1984-2001-Design/dp/1932494146/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1285343697&sr=8-1)
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This has been really helpful, this forum is even friendlier than my old 200sx forum!
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get a 97-01 4.0 on multipoint LPG. The facelift ones have a galvanised body so rust is much reduced and the interior is better IMHO.
I actually think the 2.5 petrol is a pretty good choice too - the engine is as reliable as the 4.0, it will probably come with a Chrysler rear axle which is more reliable and the lower power means it won't damage the axles or sag the rear springs as much either. My Dad has run a 2000 2.5 petrol from 14k miles to 130k+ with very little to complain about (new aircon compressor was most expensive repair I think). Mpg difference between the 2.5 and 4.0 is about 5 mpg base don my 4.0 and Dad's 2.5 (20 vs 25/26 mpg).
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This has been really helpful, this forum is even friendlier than my old 200sx forum!
Lots of helpful advice here, often said that 4x4 motorsport help each other out where as many other motorsport keep 'secrets'
Oh, one thing... make sure you get leather.... more comfy than your favourite sofa.... and that's mostly found in the 4.0... cheers Maf
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And don't get silver, it's make you have unsavoury urges.