Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: tonaz on March 08, 2011, 09:25:10 PM
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hi everyone.
i have a 1995 cherokee 4.0 with lpg and every now and then it just totally dies when on lpg. it has plenty in the tank but the engine cuts out, then when i fire it up again it's fine. don't think it has ever happened when on petrol.
there is no warning, one second it is fine, the next it's dead and i'm cruising to a halt with no steering or brakes.
anyone any ideas?
cheers, tony.
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CPS on the way out ???
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I had this on me Bromc once turned out running too lean.
Opened the tap a bit more and been fine since.
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does it on mine if windy with snorkel or when I am messing and forget to push the breather pipe back on the airbox
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CPS on the way out ???
excuse my ignorance but what is CPS?
cheers,
tony.
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I'll have a shot at this (from the technically numpty brigade :hysterical: )
The Crankshaft position sensor also known as the crank position sensor is an electronic device used in an engine to record the rate at which the crankshaft is spinning. This information is used by the ECU to control ignition and fuel injection.
and the rest of the blurb can be found : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft_position_sensor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft_position_sensor)
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Go Dutch :icon_jook:
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I'll have a shot at this (from the technically numpty brigade :hysterical: )
The Crankshaft position sensor also known as the crank position sensor is an electronic device used in an engine to record the rate at which the crankshaft is spinning. This information is used by the ECU to control ignition and fuel injection.
and the rest of the blurb can be found : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft_position_sensor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft_position_sensor)
Traitor :eusa_naughty: u may end up bein blackballed :003:
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cheers for that. how much will this cost to replace?
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If it cuts out on lpg and petrol I'd suggest the cps sensor.
If it's on lpg only at what point does it cut out when your rolling/coasting?
How's your idle?
Could also be down to your rotor, ht leads or plugs.
Speaking from experience as I to own a 1995 single point LPG, and have had similar problems in the last few weeks!
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If it cuts out on lpg and petrol I'd suggest the cps sensor.
If it's on lpg only at what point does it cut out when your rolling/coasting?
How's your idle?
Could also be down to your rotor, ht leads or plugs.
Speaking from experience as I to own a 1995 single point LPG, and have had similar problems in the last few weeks!
cheers for that mate it seems to be on lpg when coasting only as i am coming to a stop or going slowly mainly. mine is single point too. i think i will get ht leads and plugs changed and see how it goes. out of interest what sort of mileage do you get? 20 quid gets me about 60 miles on lpg i think.
thanks again,
tony.
it idles fine generally a bit under 1000rpm and doesn't tend to move much either way.
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You have a problem if you're only gettin' 60 miles to £20 gas.
I'd expect at least 110 miles to 20 quid.
In fact at those rates it'd be cheaper running on petrol. :017:
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You have a problem if you're only gettin' 60 miles to £20 gas.
I'd expect at least 110 miles to 20 quid.
In fact at those rates it'd be cheaper running on petrol. :017:
exactly! what could be causing this?
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Before I had problems with it cutting out when coasting, and with the old lpg vaporizer, to £35 I got 140 miles this was mostly off road driving aswell. As a quick repair to stop the cutting out I wound the lpg idle screw right out to stop it from stalling,but this has affected the mpg quite badly.
Once the plugs and leads were changed I've wound the screw back in and its been fine ever since.
Also once you've sorted your problem check your oil as if it has been using excessive amounts of lpg your oil will be contaminated...
Oh also there should be a screw on the bottom of your vaporizer to drain the "heavy ends" which is is water that collects in the lpg system.
Hope this helps!
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Before I had problems with it cutting out when coasting, and with the old lpg vaporizer, to £35 I got 140 miles this was mostly off road driving aswell. As a quick repair to stop the cutting out I wound the lpg idle screw right out to stop it from stalling,but this has affected the mpg quite badly.
Once the plugs and leads were changed I've wound the screw back in and its been fine ever since.
Also once you've sorted your problem check your oil as if it has been using excessive amounts of lpg your oil will be contaminated...
Oh also there should be a screw on the bottom of your vaporizer to drain the "heavy ends" which is is water that collects in the lpg system.
Hope this helps!
thanks mate that's a big help. did you change the vaporisor as well then? is the filter on the lpg just something you take out, wash and replace?
it seems yours was getting slightly better mpg than mine still! so to summarise, i should: change the spark plugs, h-t leads, drain the "heavy ends", clean the lpg filter and it should run better and get better mpg and as a precaution should do an oil change too?
i'm new to all this so please forgive my ignorance. in your previous post you also mentioned the rotor? i thought this was the brake? what exactly is this? does this need changed too?
thanks again, tony.
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In your previous post you also mentioned the rotor? i thought this was the brake? what exactly is this? does this need changed too?
Going out on a limb here.......If this doesn't get me flicked......I don't know what will :hysterical:
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Go Dutch...........Go Dutch...........Go Dutch...........Go Dutch........... :ace:
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cheers, so just to clarify. is the rotor likely to need replaced as well? or shoudl i try the other stuff first and see how it goes? how much is this likely to cost to sort out properly? was hoping to do work myslef but just don't have time at the minute so was going to book it in for friday but wanted a good idea of the likely work needed before i did.
thanks again, tony.
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is the rotor likely to need replaced as well?
As per Tom555's earlier suggestion .....YES.
The copper contacts on the rotor can be worn/corroded, hence making a bad contact. No use to replace everything behind it if the source of the spark is fubar.
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hi. could anyone tell me how i drain the heavy ends water and remove the lpg filter and clean it? is there a guide anywhere? i don't really know what i am looking for. is there just a bolt to remove at the bottom of the cylinder thing? should there be like a release of gas as i am taking it off???
oh and i hae had everything changed and it still cuts out on lpg (plugs, leads, rotor, distributor cap all been changed). what next???
thanks in advance. tony.
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anyone??? i don't know what to do next? cheers :017: :greggmo:
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what next???
Ehmmm.....let me think........ :017:
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Nope.....nothing comes to mind :003:
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where do you live?
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where do you live?
i live in the north east mate, gateshead/county durham border... :flag:
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could anyone tell me how i drain the heavy ends water and remove the lpg filter and clean it? is there a guide anywhere? i don't really know what i am looking for. is there just a bolt to remove at the bottom of the cylinder thing? should there be like a release of gas as i am taking it off???
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. is there just a bolt to remove at the bottom of the cylinder thing? should there be like a release of gas as i am taking it off???
Should be a bolt at bottom of vapouriser.Gas will escape.
TBH if you're not 100% sure take to someone who is.
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cheers i'll give that a try. seems to be cutting out more often today. so annoying!!!
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You could ask here for more in depth advice.........
http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/index.php (http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/index.php)
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Thinking about it I think the bolt for draining was on the filter rather than the vap when the lad last looked at mine.
Was ages ago and my memory ain't too good :017:
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had a look, got the filter out and cleaned it and it was full of iron filings at the bottom. gave it a good blow out and cleared all the little bits out the bottom. the garage was meant to have done this!
think the drain for mine was on the vaporisor, nothing came out when i took it out though?
it's also got another problem now... it didn't turn over very well on wednesday night. then wouldn't start thursday morning. managed to jump start it and got another battery. put old battery on charge. was fine until sunday but wasn't driven from friday night until then, went to start it sunday afternoon and nothing, totally dead. put old battery back on and it started fine. had it into garage and alternator and everything is fine. anyone got any ideas???
:017:
tony.
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Your battery may just have died. Charge it off the vehicle for a good amount of time, I like to trickle charge using a smart charger for 24-48 hrs. After theis, test it after 30 mins off the charger and about 6-12 hrs off the charger. I'd bet that it will not be holding it's charge and will show roughly 50% 'full' after a few hours off the charger. There's probably a slight electrical drain when the jeep is turned off.
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yeah just seems strange it's been fine for 3 months on the old battery and then drained a new one in less than 3 days? how to i find out what's draining it/how do i permanently fix it? :017: :icon_sad:
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If its a brand new battery I would take it back and get them to test it, its not unheard of to have new battery's that fail quickly,Otherise you need to look for a fairly big drain, check your interior lights are not tuned on permanently and stuff like that. Electrical drains can be a right pain to trace.
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had the battery chaecked and it was fine mate. really strange!
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If you had to unplug owt when messing with the lpg best check all them there connections/wires for integrity.
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hi
had same problem with my 1998 grand cherry
stalling at low revs found out i had a perished vacuum hose
replaced hose sorted
worth a try