Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: MudSurfer on May 04, 2011, 06:30:19 PM
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I started writing this on my phone thingy, while sitting on the tailgate of my WJ on the M54 Easbound near Telford this afternoon - as my trusty Jeep decided on the way to a very important meeting that it was going to throw P1130 at me - Low Fuel Pressure, and slow right down, and stall on the hard shoulder. I turned off the ignition, gave it 10 seconds, and tried again....success.....for all of 20 or so seconds and it did it again.
So - pulled over, called RAC, started typing thread, then phone died.....great.
Got recovered home, but we (Pete from the RAC and I) fuel was getting to the rail, and each injector, bled the rail (using that weird little white pluggy thing), hand primed the system to bypass the filter, checked the filter for water.....still nothing, won't fire. Disconnected the battery to clear the fault code and try again, but to no avail.
We can't see if it's an injector leaking, and there are no obvious signs of the pump having failed, so a bit stuck....
Help, please.....it's dead on the drive....
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shift it to the tech section and wait for Dr Mike to come and give resuscitation advice
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Crank sensor...
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member Richardoverend had some similar problems some months ago with his 2.7 CRD
Looky here: http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=15163.msg175012#msg175012 (http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=15163.msg175012#msg175012)
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no-one can live with the CURATORRRRR
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oh we could, there is a search function :icon_biggrin:
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This is how I imagine Dutch (The Curatorrrrr) comin out of his home office after another heavy night of curating Birtys
[attachment=1]
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oh we could, there is a search function :icon_biggrin:
:flag_bs:
No, not via the search function, I just remembered the thread with Richard who resides just up the road from me ....... :089: :089: :089:
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This is how I imagine Dutch (The Curatorrrrr) comin out of his home office after another heavy night of curating Birtys
[attachment=1]
Damn.....I'll have IOM, Sparky and the whole KY crew camping on me doorstep now..... :011:
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so, can we get this guy any help with his truck
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Right then - I used the search function, found another thread with Easy Start mentioned as a cure, so went out, found some just where my wife said it was (in the back of her camper van) so gave that a try and.....
it sort of turned over, sounded like a tractor, and died. Tried it again, without ES, nothing....again with ES, turned over, sounded like a tractor - but then died again....
Sounds like the HP fuel pump to me - any suggestions where to get one from ?
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First of all you need to know 100% what's wrong. Maybe's will/could cost tons of cash with the risk that the problem is not solved.
That would mean THE Jeep specialist....dealer. I had (what later transpired) a fuel problem with the Mrs. KJ because one data cable
running the fuel supply computermabob had severed. Recovery guy gave it the ES treatment as well, virtually had it running on the stuff,
until it evaporated. If the engined got any fuel at all by its own means it would have pulled through.
My garage does not have the ODBIII scanner with specialized Jeep software but he said....take it to Jeep...hook it up to their computer gear.....get verdict......but DONT let them touch the car (@£90/hr) before talking to me.
Luckily it was an easy and relatively cheap issue to fix.
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I completely agree mate, but I will need to get it stretchered over to Shrewsbury from home, that's 40 miles on a trailer....
I do need it fixed very soon - and so far, it does point to the HP fuel pump - but I'll take the injectors out and check them in the morning and see if it's any of them leaking first..
Any ideas on a decent way to check the HP pump?
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wait to see what mike p thinks, he usually checks in early morning here :icon_winkle:
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Since Richard pulled one apart, serviced and refitted it, try a PM to him for further info.
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Since Richard pulled one apart, serviced and refitted it, try a PM to him for further info.
Good batting, think man...
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Shit dude ...not good ...As already stated see what the Doc comes up with...
If ya need it trailering to Salop try SSJ methinks...niggly issues seem to confuse Westbury...
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The story so far - this morning, while juggling work and Stan, I've taken out Injectors one and two (looking from the front) and given them a good clean up, all the gunk off the ends, taken off the copper washers, cleaned behind them and the washers themselves, found some residue on number two that looks like water contamination in the fuel, but can't be too sure. Two was much cleaner than one.
Put some copper grease onto the bolts, and put it all back together before it started to rain. Due to yesterday's fun and games, the RAC guy didn't reconnect the fuel in to the filter - so even if the ES trick would have worked, there was no sodding fuel going in anyway - durr.....
So - while the battery continues to charge, I'll have a coffee, catch up with work email, then take out number three, and give that a clean (four and five and bone dry around the top, whereas one, two and three all had signs of dampness around them...). So - once I've done that, left the bleed cap off and tried to crank it a few times and let it self bleed, I'll see if it works.
Also - does anyone on here know what the small allen screws do that are on the top of each chamber on the HP fuel pump? Are they to bleed the pump?
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I've just seen this :icon_rolleyes:
you will need to get it to a jeep/bosch specialist, trust me, you'll be fucking about with it for ages, otherwise :banghead:
4 & 5 injectors is a half the engine out job :icon_rolleyes:
it could be the fuel pressure reg on the rear of the fuel rail, the O-rings go, also a pig to do
it will need electronicaly bleeding and starting by said expert
whilst its there get them to re-seat the injectors
been there done it :icon_winkle:
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Well, so far - gazebo erected to keep the rain off, and work re-commenced....
Injectors 1, 2 and 3 out - 3 was filthy, rusted at the end - probably due to water in the fuel, and caked in burned, sprayed up fuel, so seems fairly clear that number 3 was the main culprit - all three seals have signs of wear on them too - so it's off to Dr Diesel in Oswestry tomorrow to get some more seals, and then put it all back together and try and start it.....
Hopefully daggie, I won't too many issues - but if I do, I'll get the diesel guy to come down and collect it and get it running....
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thats what I thought too, good luck
ps you're supposed to change the injector bolts too
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From reading many posts here 2.7CRD fuel supply issues are becoming the new XJ/VM head gasket problem..
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and merc sprinters
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and merc sprinters
They ate only a problem if they have DPD written down the side and the driver can't read numbers if they are in red circles.....
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I don't have a huge amount of experience on these. Leaking external seals on the injectors will not cause the problem, just cause a horrible mess and fuel smell when they get bad. Here's the diagnostic procedure for that code..... Symptom List:
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION ACTUATOR STICKING
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION LEAKAGE DETECTED
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION POSITIVE DEVIATION
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO
HIGH-SHUT OFF
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO
LOW
Test Note: All symptoms listed above are diagnosed using the same tests.
The title for the tests will be P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE
MALFUNCTION ACTUATOR STICKING.
When Monitored and Set Condition:
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION ACTUATOR STICKING
When Monitored: With the engine speed above 730 rpm.
Set Condition: The fuel rail pressure sensor indicates fuel pressure above what the ECM
commanded.
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION LEAKAGE DETECTED
When Monitored: With the engine speed above 730 rpm.
Set Condition:
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION POSITIVE DEVIATION
When Monitored: With the engine speed above 730 rpm.
Set Condition: The ECM commands the fuel pressure solenoid and the fuel pressure
sensor indicates a fuel pressure reading less than what is expected by the ECM based on
the ECM command to the fuel pressure solenoid.
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO HIGH-SHUT
OFF
When Monitored: With the engine speed above 730 rpm.
Set Condition: The fuel rail pressure sensor indicates fuel pressure above 21,000 PSI
with the engine off.
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO LOW
When Monitored: With the engine running.
Set Condition: The ECM determines that the fuel rail pressure is too low for a given
engine speed.
172
DRIVEABILITY - DIESEL
POSSIBLE CAUSES
CHECKING FOR OTHER DTC’S
CHECKING THE FUEL PRESSURE
FUEL INJECTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR
FUEL SYSTEM CONTAMINATION
FUEL SYSTEM LEAK
INJECTOR COMMON DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY
1 WARNING: HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES DELIVER DIESEL FUEL UNDER
EXTREME PRESSURE FROM THE INJECTION PUMP TO THE FUEL
INJECTORS. THIS MAY BE AS HIGH AS 23,200 PSI (1600 BAR). USE
EXTREME CAUTION WHEN INSPECTING FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL
LEAKS.
WARNING: FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE
SKIN CAUSING PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. INSPECT FOR
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS WITH A SHEET OF CARDBOARD. WEAR
SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING WHEN
SERVICING FUEL SYSTEM.
Turn the ignition on.
With the DRBIIIt, read the ECM DTCs.
Are there any other DTCs present?
All
Yes ! Refer to symptom list for problems related to the DTC other than
P1130.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
No ! Go To 2
2 NOTE: If the ECM detects and stores a DTC, the ECM also stores the
engine/vehicle operating conditions under which the DTC was set. Some of
these conditions are displayed on the DRB IIIt at the same time the DTC is
displayed.
NOTE: Before erasing stored DTCs, record these conditions. Attempting to
duplicate these conditions may assist when checking for an active DTC.
Turn the ignition on.
With the DRBIIIt, erase the ECM DTCs.
NOTE: Driving the vehicle up and down steep hills or rapid cornering with
a low fuel level can cause this DTC to set.
Test drive the vehicle under various load and speed conditions to attempt to duplicate
the fault.
With the DRBIIIt, read the ECM DTCs.
Does the DRBIIIt display this DTC?
All
Yes ! Go To 3
No ! Go To 8
173
DRIVEABILITY - DIESEL
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION ACTUATOR STICKING —
Continued
TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY
3 Turn the ignition off.
WARNING: HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES DELIVER DIESEL FUEL UNDER
EXTREME PRESSURE FROM THE INJECTION PUMP TO THE FUEL
INJECTORS. THIS MAY BE AS HIGH AS 23,200 PSI (1600 BAR). USE
EXTREME CAUTION WHEN INSPECTING FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL
LEAKS.
WARNING: FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE
SKIN CAUSING PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. INSPECT FOR
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS WITH A SHEET OF CARDBOARD. WEAR
SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING WHEN
SERVICING FUEL SYSTEM.
Inspect the entire fuel system for leakage.
Is there any evidence of leakage?
All
Yes ! Repair as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
No ! Go To 4
4 NOTE: Mixing any other fuels such as gasoline or kerosine can cause this
DTC to set.
Turn the ignition off.
WARNING: HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES DELIVER DIESEL FUEL UNDER
EXTREME PRESSURE FROM THE INJECTION PUMP TO THE FUEL
INJECTORS. THIS MAY BE AS HIGH AS 23,200 PSI (1600 BAR). USE
EXTREME CAUTION WHEN INSPECTING FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL
LEAKS.
WARNING: FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE
SKIN CAUSING PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. INSPECT FOR
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS WITH A SHEET OF CARDBOARD. WEAR
SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING WHEN
SERVICING FUEL SYSTEM.
Inspect the fuel system for contamination.
Is the fuel contaminated?
All
Yes ! Repair as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
No ! Go To 5
5 Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the ECM harness connectors.
Disconnect all of the Fuel Injector harness connectors.
Measure the resistance between ground and each of the Fuel Injector Control
circuits.
Is the resistance below 1000 ohms for any of the measurements?
All
Yes ! Repair the appropriate Fuel Injector Control circuit for a short to
ground.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
No ! Go To 6
174
DRIVEABILITY - DIESEL
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION ACTUATOR STICKING —
Continued
TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY
6 Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the ECM harness connectors.
Disconnect all of the Fuel Injector harness connectors.
Measure the resistance of the Common Injector Driver circuit between the ECM
harness connector and each Fuel Injector harness connector.
Is the resistance below 10.0 ohms for each measurement?
All
Yes ! Go To 7
No ! Repair the Injector Common Driver circuit for an open.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
7 Refer to the appropriate Service Information and perform the Fuel Pressure Test.
NOTE: The following is a list of problems that can cause the fuel pressure to
become out of specification: restricted fuel filter or fuel lines, failed fuel
pressure solenoid, air in fuel system, failed fuel sending unit, gelled fuel,
faulty injector.
Is the fuel pressure within specification?
All
Yes ! Replace the Fuel Pressure Sensor in accordance with the Service
Information.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
No ! Repair as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
8 WARNING: WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING, DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE
PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
NOTE: The conditions that set the DTC are not present at this time. The
following list may help in identifying the intermittent condition.
With the engine running and at normal operating temperature, monitor the DRB IIIt
parameters related to the DTC while wiggling the wiring harness. Look for parameter
values to change and/or a DTC to set.
Review the DTC When Monitored and Set Conditions. If possible, try to duplicate the
conditions under which the DTC was set.
Refer to any Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) that may apply.
Visually inspect the related wiring harness. Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched, or
partially broken wires.
Visually inspect the related wiring harness connectors. Look for broken, bent, pushed
out, or corroded terminals.
Were any of the above conditions present?
All
Yes ! Repair as necessary.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
No ! Test Complete.
175
DRIVEABILITY - DIESEL
P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION ACTUATOR STICKING —
Continued
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:iagree: however...
I fixed it...
Took out injectors 1,2 and 3 - cleaned them up, cleaned the nozzles, put on Land Rover TDV6 seals (thicker, with a better spray pattern), then turned myself into McGyver - took an old brake bleed kit, used the smaller pipes on it to go into the bleed valve, and then attached the other end to an old vacuum cleaner to pull the air and fuel through, left it running for about 20 mins, tried to start - nowt, then check the fuel was at the injectors - then tried again with ES and hey presto - started, running - a little lumpy to start as it choked on the last of the air, then running.
So - tools away, gazebo down cheese and coleslaw sarnie, and road test, with the ever reliable Toyota behind, with the tow ropes just in case....
Right, update - didn't drive it as I had decorsting to do, so left it on the drive with engine off. Came back to it 3 hrs later, took a while to start, then moved it, left it 2 mins and it wouldn't start. So, got the ES out and got it go again, and can see lots of big air bubbles going along the fuel line from the filter. So, I've left it running in the yard for a while to see if they clear...
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Did it work when all the bubbles disappeared ?
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Did it work when all the bubbles disappeared ?
I'll let you know when all the bubbles have disappeared.
I did find this morning, that the pipe connecting to the filter from the tank was loose - Mr RAC man had taken it off, didn't reconnect it to the filter either - but I've since pushed it right back to where it should have been and retightened the clip, so I'm off out to bleed it again with the modified hoover (it is a Hoover) and see how I get on....
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Right then .... got it going with the help of a new O ring from the 'local' Merc dealer, and the trusty vacuum cleaner to draw the fuel up, and still have air bubbles, little tiny ones, coming along the line between the fuel filter and the LP pump. If I undo the bleed screw on the fuel filter, with engine running or not, the fuel goes back along the (now clear plastic) pipe back to the tank - and lots of air is seen going to the LP pump. Tighten screw, fuel comes along happily from the tank, but still air bubbles present in the fuel line.
Switch engine off, the fuel starts to drain back to the tank....
What is going on???
Well, thanks to the overwhelming responses of all the Jeeping community....that I didn't get - I've ordered a new fuel filter, plus all the plastic fuel lines from Draytons Mercedes in Shrewsbury - a mere hours drive from home...so will fit those on Wednesday night or Thursday night, once home from Wolves and all my other chores are done....and see what happens.
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So here we are again.... I replaced all the fuel lines today, with nice new ones from Mercedes, so all the O rings, clips, connectors and lines are spot on. The filter is a new Mercedes one, that's all fine, but....
I can still see air bubble from the filter to the LP pump, no idea where from. If I loosen the bleed screw on the filter (with the engine running) the fuel disappears down towards the tank....why???
It will sit and run on the drive for hours, no problem at all - I took it for a test drive today, about 8 miles - and it cut out after about 3.5 miles, engine light on, no power, stalled then wouldn't restart. A squirt of Easy Start and it's fine....stoppped again for 5 mins - wouldn't start. Easy start squirt and away we go - got it home, no cut out, no engine light, so switched engine off then it wouldn't restart. I don't get it, so I have to extend my hire car for another few days so I can get to work and back, while I work this out....
Any and all ideas very gratefully receieved....
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ok stupid idea but has it got the right fuel cap fitted to the tank, if its a not vented or blocked it will create a vacuum in the tank and draw the fuel back along the lines?
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Mud,
Far from saying.....told you so.....there is a time that a visit to the stealer is inevitable
How much more time & fluff will you sink into this before you torch it and lose 'the love' althogether
That would be a shame......WJ's do rock :icon_super: honest !!
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ok stupid idea but has it got the right fuel cap fitted to the tank, if its a not vented or blocked it will create a vacuum in the tank and draw the fuel back along the lines?
Hi - yeah, it's the right one, came with the car - when I opened it just now it hissed at me....
And Dutch - I'll have to get it there.....I'll try and take it down to Wolves this week, armed with a can of Easy Start for when it stops on the motorway again...I just don't get it....
I tried starting it again, and it shakes. Now I ran out of fuel with it less than a week after I got it, as the guage is......entertaining shall we say. And, when I tried to start it then, it shook like it does now till the fuel came through and it worked, but I'm afraid of burning out the starter if I keep trying...
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er it shouldn't be hissing, run the engine with the cap off and see if there are bubbles
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er it shouldn't be hissing, run the engine with the cap off and see if there are bubbles
It went.....(how do you make the sound of air when you open the fuel cap?) er.....puffffft...??
I'll try that - what does it mean if there are?
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the fuel tank needs to draw in air from some where to replace the volume of fuel used, if it can't it will suck the tank in til it stops the fuel being sucked down the fuel line by the lift pump, then your car cuts out , you release the fuel cap or it finds a way to suck in small amounts of air ( hence the bubbles)the tank expands and you start the process all over again and you can restart it. so it sounds like you need a new fuel cap if thats the case.
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So - as a test, once I've got it started again with ES - could I run about a short while with the cap off, or at least loose to see if it stays running?
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yup. put the cap on but just turn it so it won't fall out, so thats its just loose in the filler neck.
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yup. put the cap on but just turn it so it won't fall out, so thats its just loose in the filler neck.
Thanks dooood, I'll give it a try...and let you know tomorrow...but, why would it sit on the drive and just run for ages, yet cut out on the road?
I may be able to answer my own question with some applied logic.....if at idle, I can see small air bubbles, then it's finding air from somewhere - however, under load, then this air supply isn't enough, so then the vacuum increases in the tank and then phuttt....stopped.. Does this make sense?
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Mr Surfer...the Dutch dude is spot on...good wishes with it
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yup. put the cap on but just turn it so it won't fall out, so thats its just loose in the filler neck.
Thanks dooood, I'll give it a try...and let you know tomorrow...but, why would it sit on the drive and just run for ages, yet cut out on the road?
I may be able to answer my own question with some applied logic.....if at idle, I can see small air bubbles, then it's finding air from somewhere - however, under load, then this air supply isn't enough, so then the vacuum increases in the tank and then phuttt....stopped.. Does this make sense?
yup basically thats the principle, at idle you are only sipping fuel but once driving you using a lot more so the volume of air in the tank cannot last ,once on the move that air is soon used up so the engine starves itself
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It will be great if thats the answer to the problem...
We wait with baited breath...
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vacuum or not he shouldn't have air bubbles in his fuel........
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I haven't tried it yet - put little Stan to bed, put dogs to bed, checked the calves and lambs, tidied the kitchen, did some work, ironed a couple of shirts for work, made and ate dinner....and thought about it ...
If while driving, the engine is starved of fuel due to vacuum, then dies, I get that, but why is it then that I can start it within 2 mins with Easy Start and away we go again? I understand the idle and load conditions, but when I went out today, it cut out while driving, engine light on, P1130 again, then wouldn't start. Air filter cover off, squirt of ES and off we go again...then, got to the next village, stopped, engine off. Back in 5 mins, no start - squirt of ES and off we go - all the way home.... If it's the vacuum, surely it would still have the vacuum problem when I started it so soon after it stopped? It just shuddered while trying to crank it...I'm very confused now - maybe I should just go to bed and dream the answer?
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Where is the fuel pump on these engines? Is it in the tank or on the engine?
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I beleive it may have a lift pump fitted in the tank to supply diesel to the injector pump,all the pressure has to be in the tank is enough to equalise that to the lift pump that is not a high pressure pump or greater for it to starve the
engine.
once the engine stops the pressure will soon drop and fuel will return up the pipe.
Any way just try it and see what happens, all you are doing by using easy start is priming the fuel system with a more volatile fuel, its nothing special in itself but if used a lot if can mess things up eventually.
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The fuel system, as I understand it, works like this.
There is a low pressure pump attached to the block, mechanically driven, that draws the fuel from the tank - so keeping it in the line from the tank to the filter is imperative. It comes from the tank supply pipe to the filter, from the filter to the LP pump, which then pumps it to the High Pressure (Bosch) pump, which then charges the rail.
The connection on the back of the HP pump seems to be for system bleeding, as it connects to a T connector from the pipe between the LP and HP pumps. The other connection on the HP pump goes all the way to the other end of the rail, which I assume also collects the over run from each of the injectors, as the run off pipe goes to this end of the rail too - then it goes back along to the filter, then back to the tank.
So when the engine is cranked, the LP and HP pumps turn with the impellers connected in the block, so fuel gets drawn from the tank, through the filter, into the LP pump, to the HP pump then into the rail and injectors.
There is no lift pump in the tank in the CRD.
So - it is feasible that the filler cap could be a problem, but having said that, every car I've ever owned goes pfffft when you open the filler cap. I'll see if I have time to try it tonight, not sure I will as it's my wedding anniversary so unlikely to get out....
Don't want to risk taking it to Wolves tomorrow....so I'll have to update when I can.
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Just do it! and see if it helps. :banghead:
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Just do it! and see if it helps. :banghead:
I will tonight - can't risk it on the way to work, it's a 130 mile round trip, and I don't want to have to call the RAC to get me home again....so I'll do it later this evening and see how I get on...
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:lol_hitting:
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OK then - had to use the ES to get it going - but with the filler cap off, I couldn't see any air bubbles in the pipe from the filter to the LP pump. So, before I even got off the drive, the engine light came on...but I gave it a try anyway. It moved, but very flat, and hestitant under acceleration, but got it going along the roads here, then pulled into a car park and switched off the engine. When I went to switch it back on, it took a few seconds, but fired up - no MIL and helloooooo.....pulled away really well, back to form. Great I thought - went to another village and pulled over, stopped the engine and guess what....it wouldn't start!!!!!! So - kind of back to square one...I can only assume the pumps are working as it's flying along when it's going, just won't start without ES....could it be the LP pump?
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your pissing in the wind, take it to a specialist :icon_rolleyes:
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Agreed - I'll try and get it to one this week...
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10/10 for effort tho
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Cheers - not bad for a pen pushing IT guy, with a farm...whose new to the car too..
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TBH i had no idea what u were talkin about but it sounded impressive :003:
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Well, that's put a smile on my face...
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Mr Mud..think your efforts are ace...but really think the GC needs to go to a specialist...
These 2.7's do seem to be squirrly things...
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Cheers Fingers.... It's off to Drayton in Wolverhampton tomorrow, I'm going to risk it on the M54 again.....
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Right - got to work OK, but it wouldn't start at the petrol station....
Looks likely (having spoken to three specialists today) that we have a leak back on one of the injectors, so when I get home tonight, I'll rig it up to my new pipes and pots, find out which one and get it replaced at Bomere Heath on Friday....so I can finally get rid of the Polo I've been crammed into all week - 6' 3" and 17 stone in a Polo = cramp!
Does anyone have the part number for the Bosch injectors?
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Bomere Heath!
That place be full off mons!!!
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Bomere Heath!
That place be full off mons!!!
That and a South African called Keith who happens to be a diesel injection specialist, who can provide me with a new injector.....on Friday :003:
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Hope it goes well..just keep away from Myddle...
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Off to see Keith at United Diesel tomorrow morning to get one or two injectors revamped....looks like a leak on 1 & 3, not too bad, but enough to cause back leak and not allow the rail to retain sufficient pressure to start the car. Hopefully, this is all I need and I'll be Jeeping about all over the place again....
Will you be about tomorrow early afternoon Mr Fingers?
Part number for the injectors btw is 0445 110 098
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Maybe...whats the planMr Mud surfer??....might need to charge up the TJ..
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Going to have to miss out Jeep fettling to be done
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Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:ace:
I connected my little pipes to the top of the injectors this morning, so I could see which one was causing me headaches - and it was number one!! When I'd cleaned and resealed, I swapped one and three round, as three came out black, covered in gelled fuel and general mess, so it's no real surprise that it was knackered. It filled the pot with diesel in seconds....
So - of I trundled in the Polyp, took it back to the rental place, with the old man driving the Jeep, swapped drivers in the Jeep and tootled off to see Keith and Mrs Keith at United Diesel, who recon'd the injector while I was there - Top, Top team!! Took it home, swapped it for the old one, snapped the retaining bolt, so had to drill that out, put in the only other new bolt I had.....and .......it only fucking started!!!! Turned it off - and had another go and it did it again - started, on it's own, no Easy Start.....yyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
Off to do victory dance around the yard for 10 mins!
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well done and good for you sorting it out yourself instead of bankrolling the stealers.
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good work dood :icon_super:
still no idea what ya talkin about tho :003:
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Well done Mr Mud...and you kept out of Myddle and Builmarsh Lane..rm
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all the disiesal guys know who to ask now!