Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: bill99 on July 08, 2011, 11:13:34 AM
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Rear Axle question for a 1999 Cherokee 4 litre XJ with a limited slip diff (trac-lock) normally recommended to be in full time 4 wheel drive.
A few months back we noticed the rear diff was really clucking into drive, so as a work around I just put the car into 2 wheel drive, which is fine, no clunking.
So now getting into this and looking for play on prop shaft and joints etc, I find that it has a lot of lateral play on the right side rear wheel; the half shaft is moving in/out a lot, much more than the left side.
So looking at the manual it seems likely that the play must be inside the diff because the axle tube end bearing seems to have a normal ball roller bearing for up/down and side play but just lets the shaft float in/out.
Sorry if this is not the usual technical terms, but what do you guys think??? What part in the diff will be the likely cause of this???
Also just so I can look for a second hand axle as an option, can anyone tell me how to read the axle type and gear ratio from the tag number bolted onto the diff, the number is as below, 2 lines of numbers, top line and bottom line, so I will try to include the number spacing.
52099457AB LS
3 55 6032-2
The lower line maybe should read as “3.55” as there is a faded punch mark in the space where a number could fit.
Any help welcomed.
Bill
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The shaft slides into the diff and has a C-clip on the end to retain it. End float is normal, even to an alarming degree.
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:iagree: 100% even fools the odd mot station
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ok as long as the movement is not left to right or up and down. the in out movement can be quite concerning
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Ah ok, thanks for that guys, although I can see an MOT issue with this in the near future.
I have been reading away at the service manual and getting a bit put off with the never ending list of special tools that Jeep use for axle and diff service.
I had thought it may be a worn taper roller bearing in the right side supporting the diff, but I was keen to get opinions from guys with practical experience of this sort of work just in-case it was a known issue with something like a shim disintegrating or something else like that beause it seems strange to have so much more movement on just one side.
Just supposing I have a go at these bearings and shims would I be right in thinking that after removing the half shafts and the bearing caps, will the diff lift right out of the housing? Has anyone done this and is it a possible DIY job?
Cheers
Bill
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diff work is complicated diy work, you do need certain tools and and should always be ready to spend a very long time getting it right.
I would try and diagnose the problem fully first
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The diff bearings or shims won't change driveshaft end float. The things that might cause it are a worn c clip, worn c clip groove in the end of the shaft, collapsed/broken belville washer in lsd clutch pack, or worn friction discs in clutch pack. The end float is a charactaristic if the Dana 35c and is not an MoT fail point.
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Thanks for all the replies, that worn clip and shaft makes sense, see now i would have been hammering away trying to replace bearings for nothing.
MOT next week we'll see how it goes.
Cheers
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Just a bit of an update, yes it did pass the MOT with no issues about the end float, well something else learned.
I don’t know what I would do without this site and you guys, I’m sure I would have sold the jeep long ago after having thrown shed loads of cash at it.
Anyway thanks for all the help, Mike Pavelin your a star
Cheers
Bill
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:icon_redface: Shucks