Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: eddscott on February 09, 2012, 09:29:05 AM
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I've got a 1999 Cherokee on 62K.
I'm in the process of selling it and wanted to check if the drive selector was working. Put it into 4WD and it got stuck in PT. Can tell its in PT by binding up on lock. I thought I released it but wasn't sure if it was in 4 or 2. I had to pull the selector back and for quite a bit to free it up but it doesn't feel right.
It now feels odd to drive. I had a garage check it over and the guy said that it was in 2WD and they greased up the linkages. He said its going into 4WD and 2WD OK.
But it still feels odd. I find XJs a bit vague anyway when driving but now it feels like I'm not in ful control of it. When it turns into a corner it kind of feels like it doesn't want to turn - like its pressing on forward. It feels a bit like its squirming when cornering. It feels a bit heavier to turn the wheel and I also think it sounds a bit louder than it did before.
I'm wondering if the transmission is damaged in some way. I really had to slam the selector back into 2WD and now when putting it in Park the selector is a little off and the key won't come out unless I use a little more force than before.
Really annoyed because I'm trying to sell and had one lad really interested but I just don't trust it right now. It actually feels a bit dangerous.
EDIT
On the way to work this morning it was dangerous to drive in rwd. 4wd was fine but in 2wd its like the rears are driven but theres load/drag/friction on the front wheels making the rear push which results in tail out action at every junction. Got a tank slapper on this morning just turning into a junction. Scared the bejesus out of me!
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As its an XJ i believe it has a fulltime 4wd option,so as the mpg is negligable between 2wd/4wd i would leave it in 4wd fulltime all the time.The difference in feelings could be psychological to an extent as now you are convinced its wrong,ive done it before myself,almost convincing myself of a problem that isnt there
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XJs are very tail happy in the wet when in 2WD. Steering will seem slightly heavier in 4WD and is strange on full lock because it has UJs rather than CV joints. There is a chance something has come adrift somewhere but the transmission is pretty bullet proof so I'd be surprised if you could do any serious damage by being heavy handed with the shift lever.
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the jeep has no bias on the front tracking so the steering will naturally fell lazy compared to the normal 2 degrees toe in or out. rwd is always lively in the wet and especially on slippery surfaces but naturally the jeep will tend to feel like it's understeering which is due to the high profile tyres. In 4wd this feeling is greatly reduced as the push pull effect comes into play. These will never be comparable to a modern built car and the transmission/transfer case are very strong and will take quite alot of punishment before they let go. Being heavy handed with drive selector is perfectly normal if not used, so the more its moved the less effort you will need to select the drive.
Dont be put off by the jeep if something is broken then you would be hearing obvious noises or no drive in certain conditions.
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Check you tyre tread depth front to rear, even a 1mm diffence can make shifting the tc hard work
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I have wondered if it was me but I'm not so sure. It really doesn't feel right.
Is there any chance that although the front wheels aren't being driven theres something locked/stuck that would cause the front wheels to bind?
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:iagree:
had a TC shifting problem with my ranger that turned out to be tyre tire depth problem.
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You could always drop the front prop and see if it still feels the same. That would eliminate transmission problems
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Is that a big job to do?
Driving home tonight was another adventure. Really hacked off now. I'm convinced the front wheels are binding in some way. Every junction, every corner feels like the rear end is just floating.
Its not so bad in 4WD but in 4WD it feels like the engine is straining more than usual. MPG has also dropped off a cliff. Its doing low teens even on light throttle and has gone through a 1/4 of a tank in about 15 miles.
I'm so angry with myself because I've never bothered with the transmission selector before and whilst trying to sell it I've managed to c*ck it up. :(
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as Chris said drop the front axle.
15 min job
1/4 drive ratchet and socket for the front axle but spanner for the xfer case due to space
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OK, I can probably manage that.
Now I've convinced myself the front wheels are binding just jacking one of the front corners up and turning the wheel would tell me if they are - they should be free moving should they not?
Is it possible for the front wheels to bind?
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If it drives the same with the prop off then the problem is probably in the axle. Try jacking the front up so both wheels are clear of the ground, if you turn one of the wheels by hand, the other should turn in the opposite direction. If it turns in the same direction the problem is in the diff pumpkin.
If dropping the prop solves the problem then you may have it stuck in 4WD Part time. in this mode the centre diff is locked and it will certainly feel odd on tarmac especially on corners because the front and rear driven wheels will have to turn at the same speed when they don't want to.
I'd still say though that you'd be very unlucky to do serous damage by hanging off the 4WD selector lever, the transmission is pretty tough and should take much more abuse than that.
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OK, I can probably manage that.
Now I've convinced myself the front wheels are binding just jacking one of the front corners up and turning the wheel would tell me if they are - they should be free moving should they not?
Is it possible for the front wheels to bind?
If 4WD part time is engaged, you shouldn't be able to turn a wheel if only one is off the ground.
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My facelift would sometimes do all that due to lack of use on transfer box,a quick boot in reverse then forward used to drop it outta pt.
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My facelift would sometimes do all that due to lack of use on transfer box,a quick boot in reverse then forward used to drop it outta pt.
I'd forgotten they do that. (It's been a while) Seem to remember mine being temperamental when I first got it now you mention it.
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Will have a bash this weekend. I've tried rocking it, flooring it back and for, driving gentle-ish into a curb and bouncing over speed bumps at some speed (almost died doing this I might add)
Kinda annoyed because I had planned to check out the Jeeps potential replacement - Audi A4 Quattro (for no other reason than being able to say "Fire up the......!" ) :)
I'm sure its not in PT. Slowly lock to lock is OK its not bouncing and jerking like in PT. If you imagine the rear wheels covered in grease, thats how it feels.
One thing taking off the driveshaft - should I mark on the shaft and the coupling with paint to put it back in the same place after.
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You shouldn't have to mark the position of the prop, they're balanced off the truck not on, but it can't hurt.
Its not something silly like a binding front brake is it?
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Was gonna say about a binding front brake, horrible when they stick.
Just double check the tread depth & the pressures are all equal too, simple stuff I know but it can make a difference
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What tyres have you got on it? I remember when I first got mine it had the original Goodyears (Eagles G4 or GA I think) and they were lethal in the wet when I wasn't paying full attention driving in 2WD.
If you've been driving a modern car and have gone back to the XJ it will feel like a wallowy and clunky mess in comparison, it's just how they are.
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Jack up the front wheels and give them a spin, to see if they are binding unduely
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check the rear diff as well, if its locked up for some reason,it will tend to try to push you straight on in corners and the rear wheels will skip/slide.
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Thats a point, it does feel a bit like that - well, it did.
Not sure if its related but I left it in 4WD from the drive home yesterday and this morning just randomly decided to push the lever down, there was a clonk half a second later and I think it feels OK now.
The tyres are say Goodyear AT/R on the side and are 225/70/16 size.
If the rear diff was locked, if I jack up the rear and turn the wheel, if both wheels go in the same direction then it locked? This would be the same when I jack the front up?
If the rear was locked, on full lock would it not drag the outside wheel? If the front was locked wouldn't it do the same?
Going to take the front shaft off anyway and see how it goes.
Cheers guys.
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Sounds like it was just stuck in PT 4WD.
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it was stuck its common a blip on gravel or grass tends to unbind them all road work does this
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:iagree:
Probably best just to drive it around in 2WD for a bit to make sure there isn't anything else going on. When happy just keep shifting the transfercase lever into all positions and it should free up and starting working properly again.
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I'll be jacking the Jeep up in a bit and seeing if the wheels spin freely.
I moved it into 4WD last night and when moving back into 2WD it got stuck in PT. It made a bit of a clonk again and I think dropped back into 2WD so I think it is starting to free up. Still feels like the rear is floating though.
Not sure if its just me but it does seem to have a bit more of a rumble than it did before. It would rumble faintly when in 4WD but not so much in 2WD. Now though, the rumble doesn't change.
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So this morning I put the front of the Jeep up on axle stands and tried to move the wheels.
With the 'box in P and the selector in 2WD I turned the wheel and it rotated freely with the front prop rotating too - the other wheel didn't move. I then put it in 4WD and tried again. This time the front prop didn't move and the wheels rotated in opposite directions. I put it back into 2WD and rocked the wheels and after a clonk it released and was back in 2WD with the wheel rotating freely.
I put the rear on stands and with the 'box in P and the selector in 2WD, I could just about turn the wheel but both wheels turned in the same direction with the rear prop rotating too.
I then but the 'box in N and the selector in N and tried again. Both wheels would only turn in the same direction. I didn't anyone else with me so asked my daughter and her friend to rotate the wheel (safety first) with me rotating the wheel in the opposite way. We couldn't do it.
I dropped one wheel and tried to rotate the other wheel by hand and it was quite hard to turn the wheel.
I've posted some quick vids on youtube to try to show what is happening.
This the front end appearing to work OK. The bit at the end is very cringeworthy so apologies.
http://youtu.be/KJQyxqBY3BM (http://youtu.be/KJQyxqBY3BM)
Here I'm trying to rotate the wheel with the other wheel on the ground with everything in N and it barely moves.
http://youtu.be/oly9PSW8cmE (http://youtu.be/oly9PSW8cmE)
In this one I'm not sure what the selection is but in between my unfortunate grunting you can hear a knocking sound as the wheel is rotated.
http://youtu.be/i2tjLoEmyKs (http://youtu.be/i2tjLoEmyKs)
So would the above suggest that there is something up with the rear diff? If the rear diff was locked and the other wheel was down, would I still be able to rotate the wheel. Or is it that the outer gear of the diff is working but the inside gears (the diff bit) aren't working as they should. I couldn't seem to get the rear wheels to rotate in opposite directions (I know the vid shows one wheel down but I did try with them both up)
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I thought the 99's xj had open diffs so it should rotate freely but it sounds like you have a lsd axle fitted, so the clutch packs may be buggered so you need to rebuild them or replace the axle by the sound of it.
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I've been told that the rear diff is Dana30, if that helps ??
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its all down to how mechanically minded you are, I think your next step is to drain the oil from it and remove the cover and see what it looks like inside and see if there is anything obviously wrong with it.
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You should have an open diff on your truck as the LSD was dropped when the facelift model was released. I think the LSD may have still been an option though.
As Panic says, it sounds like you may have one (either from new- or replacement axle) in which case the clutch pack may be buggered. Open the diff by removing the rear cover (Remembering to put something under it to catch the oil first!). I'd get some replacement oil and silicon diff sealant first and a shot of additive (incase there is an LSD) so you have everything needed to put it back together if there's nothing wrong inside.
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you axle is a 35c
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you axle is a 35c
If you have a 4.0 Perol Cherokee this will be fact.
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The orvis may well have a LSD fitted, which would give you both spinning the same way - look in the glove box and see if there is a sticker telling you so