Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: IrishCJ6 on April 15, 2012, 07:39:54 PM
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Another good day wheeling today but unfortunatley on the last challenge I broke a front half shaft, think its the long one, anyways how hard to replace, what do I replace it with etc etc, all comments wanted
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narrowed fsj 44
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or a diesel xj
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narrowed fsj 44
so I get the lj70's and sell you my n/t's >:D
good thinkin DJ20 :hysterical:
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Yeah, yeah I know the 30's are the weak link but I really don't have the funds to upgrade axles yet unless someone is willing to part with one for beer tokens and the love of jeeps, I'm more interested in parts to buy, i.e. what shafts etc
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http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=711 (http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=711) :icon_super:
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make sure you replace it with genuine spicer shaft, sourced second hand or go with the yukon shafts. Don't waste money on Omix-Ada/crown replacement shafts
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Unfortnatley I wish it was the axles, but no, this is what I found when I opened up the diff cover
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0022Copy.jpg&hash=6ed2bb62ad17472af2f8d83280800ba3b09ae56b) :icon_eek: :010:
So it was a complete front end dissasemble :banghead: it came apart easy and look what was left
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0026Copy.jpg&hash=b121811d9e8164b61a474357f46609b47dcadc4f)
a close up of both
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0025Copy.jpg&hash=44d5812f064f67d2b6cc20774b207578dee2918c)
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0030Copy.jpg&hash=741a0a69380068968ad549783892bf14ae8cc91c)
Had to make a tool to take off the yoke, worked really well
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0027Copy.jpg&hash=239f7546a030db0b45d70fa9af64e8eadd6d33c7)
So at the end of the day I ended up at this stage
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0041Copy.jpg&hash=81a5e323abde41ec149999cba7ea91864a148252)
Now the questions start,
Anyone got a good second hand 4.27 crown and pinion?
I was given a near new LSD unit with 3.73's from one of the guys in the club, its from a later Dana 30 (seems to fit), would it be worth installing once I get a new/second hand C & P?
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0039Copy.jpg&hash=51ef1171bf6878b323ff8326ad2abfb4a123699e)
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0040Copy.jpg&hash=47275fa243bd7cce2082e7fbad2e8fb342fd9fdd)
Now for a diagnostic on the root of the breakage :jpshakehead: when I was taking out the diff assembly I went to undo the 4 bolts hold the bearing caps in place, expecting these to be very tight I grabbed a breaker bar but to my amasement the bolts were little more than hand tight :icon_eek: surely this is not normal? So I think because this was the first time the Jeep was used in anger the diff casing was able to move away from the pinion and thus created a masive backlash that then did the distruction?
What you guys think?
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i scrapped a few about 6 weeks ago :icon_redface:
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what ratio what size tyres if 4.27 small pinion head was a wheel spinning then gripped a locker helps Dana 30 with a v8 is borderline
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It's running 33"'s open diff, yeah more than likely spinning but surprised it did the diff not and axle or UJ? Question is what do I do, money is tight, do I look for another second hand 4.27????? or bite the bullet and buy new? all the rest of the gear looks good?
If I swap axles then I'll have to do both front and rear and/or change ratios in the rear
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Ouch, it hurts looking at it. Hope you get it fixed soon M8.
Sorry I can't help op the techy front.
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Three words "Fuck my stump"!!!!! That looks really bad mate :010:
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seen it before usually uj goes breaks the ears of the shafts locker stops the snatch both wheel turn at the same speed
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Yep, I've heard of it before aswell, but with a locker, and or as above. But with open diffs and everything standard it just doesn't make sense to me
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not seen a ring and pinion do this with a locker seen the carrier break in half through the pin with a lock right
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Its what happens when you have a 360, some large tyres and a heavy right foot J33pky can tell you all about it :003:
Lighthouse have some R+Ps but they were £250+VAT a set or you can buy from the States a bit cheaper.
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I know you can get them from the US but what about quality? any brand/name to go for or steer clear of
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asked similar questions recently:
http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=18996.0 (http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=18996.0)
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I went through 3 dana 30 front diffs like you have, the solution was a front dana 44, mine went just like yours, also with open diffs, 32'' swampers and a 360. If you stick with the front d30 and cant get good second hand parts, get your new parts from yukon gear in the states.
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I was just looking on 4WD.Com and there is two sets listed one from Omix Ada and the other from Dana
The Omix one is $570 and the Dana is $365, any reason why there is so much of a difference?
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/4-27-Ring-and-Pinion.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5092&t_pn=OAI16513.14 (http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/4-27-Ring-and-Pinion.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5092&t_pn=OAI16513.14)
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/Dana-30-4-27-Ring-And-Pinion-Kit.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5092&t_pn=D%2fS706503-8X (http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/Dana-30-4-27-Ring-And-Pinion-Kit.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5092&t_pn=D%2fS706503-8X)
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With the help of another great Birty's member (dieselj20) I have now sourced a replacement ring and pinion :icon_super: new bearing kit purchased from the US :icon_super: new wheel bearing kit from the US :icon_super: and while I was at it got some Warn Hubs :icon_biggrin: Its going to be like Christmas all over again in a few weeks however, the bank manager won't think the same way :010:
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So the LSD I was given turns out to be a Gleason-Torsen Dana 30 unit (3.73 and up), not bad for a freebe, pulled it apart today to check it over and found it to be spanking clean, so simple as well couldn't believe it. Should work well in the front end on mine.
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$50 on says you see more R and P damage imminently :003:
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Group hug!!!
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Thanks guys just what I need :banghead:, I thought it may help cause I wouldn't have to go so hard cause I would have better traction, hopefully I can prove you wrong
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sorry didn't mean to be a doom monger :die:
Its just more traction, = can drive further on more difficult stuff= more right foot = more R and P's :003:
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Ok trainer wheels on then, might need to take the lead out of my right foot for a while as I really can't afford another one of these for a while, I still think it should have broken the axle or UJ before the R & P
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Ok trainer wheels on then, might need to take the lead out of my right foot for a while as I really can't afford another one of these for a while, I still think it should have broken the axle or UJ before the R & P
yes, its a bit of a funny one, but you have many horses, try strapping a lump of 2x4 under the accelerator, that should help :003:
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Agree... :icon_twisted: UJ should be first to go followed by ears on outer and then inner shaft....
BUT
mate with TJ had R and P go (Lowpinion diff)
I did the same rock (high pinion diff) no problem..... Might have something to do with it.....
Most of my breakages have been throttle causes when at near full lock..... They only have 25% strength at full lock
So Iam told!
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Guys,
Whats the best way of creating the required 50ft/lb of resistance on the carrier for checking tooth contact, I've read all sorts but want to know what works, any help would be appreciated.
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I put the wheels back on and had a couple of mates push on the tyres to create resistance as i turned the yoke, unsure if it was 50ft/lb but seemed to do the job (did a better fucking job than the Jeep dealers did changing a pinion seal & yoke anyway!)
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Surely if you're fitting Warn FW hubs, the little fusible link in those should go first?? If you're not interested in driving like a cock, or out to prove anything, you'll be fine.
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Diff finally rebuilt, took a lot longer than I thought but its done, now just to reassemble the rest of the axle. Lucky I brought new wheel bearings as they were poked to say the least, well the front bearing on both sides. Also my shiny new Warn hubs arrived.
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2FDSCF0045Copy.jpg&hash=395d877253d0a290b910523d70b5a5691f20ca7f)
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mmm, friday night porn :greggmo:
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:hysterical: pervert
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the secret to axle work is to take the time its not black magic time and one or two toys for the tool box
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Axle fully rebuilt and the Jeep going once again :ace: also no strange noises :icon_super:
And my nice new Warn hubs
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi274.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj254%2Fandrewspalding%2F20120512_180016Copy.jpg&hash=4d7c28dc72700ad87e45636081f9648986e83fb0)
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Nice One
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well done that man
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I am feeling a stirring :icon_redface: