Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: jay140285 on October 13, 2012, 08:44:25 PM
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Evening all,
So this evening, I pop out to the local takeaway for some errrr Salad.
Anyway just as I pull up in turns over to LPG, turn Jeep off and go and get my errrr Salad.
Come outside, fire up Jeep and it splutters a bit but fires on petrol and switches over to LPG instantly.
Now as I pull away it splutters and its running really rough to the point where it can hardly keep going, I managed to get it home with constant stalling and I have fault codes 301/302/303 pending.
I know its misfire on 1 2 and 3,
Could it have flooded itself by starting on petrol but not using the petrol it fires on before changing over???
I cannot see how it could be plugs or coils as it just went all of a sudden.
Thoughts please, as you know.
RX8 - Totalled by lorry
XJ - Done a wee on the drive and need to see where from
WJ - The above problem.
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does it run okay on petrol?
if yes its lpg side, if not its more than likely ignition. Switch around the coils first off
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Shit on both mate.
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switch coils about, check the wiring to them too, could be water ingress
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Ok will try moving coils, it is strange that it was perfect one minute then not the next, not warning signs.
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could the ECU have got a bit scrambled?
And not fueling correctly, it smells of petrol a lot.
Should I disconnect the battery over night, see if it re sets?
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that sounds like the emulators packed up.
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WTF is an emulator?
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it controls the injectors and when the engine is running on gas it stops the injectors firing fuel into the cyclinder but still sends the signal to the ecu to tell it ,they are
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So is it part of the LPG installation or factory install
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lpg install usually mounted on the bulkhead, if you pull the fuse to the lpg power circuit( by battery), see how it runs then
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Do that and see if it runs ok on Petrol?
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yes
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ok mate, LPG is under warranty still so hope it is that.
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Pull the lpg fuse & try it on petrol only, when I did Jedi's misfire I even ordered coil packs as I have done quite a few over the years & they do go all of a sudden, turned out to be just plugs, bloody suprised me but don't panic yet & expect the worst!
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It had a misfire a couple of months ago and recalling Nicks issue I spoke to him and it was the plugs.
I will pull LPG fuse and go from there.
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Did you put the right plugs in it & check the coil packs for signs of tracking? Is the water level ok? any excessive steam from the exhaust? I wouldn't be worried yet though, try the basics first.
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Yes correct plugs were used, water level fine, no HG failure signs.
Just pulled LPG plug and no difference at all. Its really struggling to run and even start.
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mine does this every now and then :jpshakehead:, disconnecting the battery works for me :102:
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check simple stuff first dont PANIC yet i dont think the end of the wold is booked til a week thursday
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So Plugs out, and rather wet.
Leaving them to dry for the day, engine turned over and excess fuel removed.
Visit paid by Kev and Gaz to give some general abuse and point at the engine.
Will put it back together later and update.
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oddly, mine started up with a missfire this morning :017:
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WJ's like to do things together.
When my TPS went 2 other members had same issues within a week.
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Plugs dried out, excess fuel removed all back together and still the same really rough.
As in struggling to maintain running.
Also noticed it seems to have used a lot of oil over the last week.
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Its the bloody Head Gasket!!!!!!
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:banghead:
ouch sorry to hear that
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It's sad to read this, Jay. Hope you pull it all together and week work. Had similar problem 10 years ago with Chrysler intrepid with lpg. Since this I don't use gas even in the lighter.have my zippo hehe. I know lpg make driving cheaper (especially Jeep) but I know personally at last 7 people who had same fire problem with gassed car and nobody on petrol . Good luck.
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Cheers Jarek,
Its a fine line between if I spend a grand and get it sorted can I get another 2yrs motoring out of it, fairly trouble free.
Or What is it worth mullered a grand, then if I put another grand to that there isnt much Jeep / vehicle I can get for 2k.
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Sorry to hear you are having problems with it Jay.
I recall we chatted about LPG a while back.
At this point, I'd pull all the plugs and do a compression test, then, assuming those numbers are OK, try a new set of plugs in there. Bit of a long shot really, but a badly flooded plug will never work properly again so worth a try at least.
I read that the 4.7 is an engine that has to have valve lube on LPG - did your installer include that?
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Chris,
Already done it.
All new plugs in the following day, still no better, coils all swapped round to check those, still no better,
Yes it has the flash lube fitted and checked on a regular basis.
Pressure test done and its pressurising within seconds.
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Are the 1 2 3 compression numbers a good match for the others in the engine?
Does sound like you've covered all the basics so maybe time to dig a bit deeper. The way it came on does sound a bit odd, mind.
Perhaps blown HG was a good call.....
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Cheers Jarek,
Its a fine line between if I spend a grand and get it sorted can I get another 2yrs motoring out of it, fairly trouble free.
Or What is it worth mullered a grand, then if I put another grand to that there isnt much Jeep / vehicle I can get for 2k.
Welcome to my world Jay, look inside yourself..... are you ready for a 51 plate focus ??? ....... no ? thought so. The money is a very temporary short lived pain once you've got the WJ up and running again, trust me.
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Are the 1 2 3 compression numbers a good match for the others in the engine?
Does sound like you've covered all the basics so maybe time to dig a bit deeper. The way it came on does sound a bit odd, mind.
Perhaps blown HG was a good call.....
When we have started to think about it, it has been smokey (white) especially on start up, MPG has recently dropped and I had a coolant leak which now I know was obviously due to the increased pressure build up.
Dutch - Errrr no. WJ will be on the mend very very soon. All been well booked in for this coming Monday.
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Dutch - Errrr no. WJ will be on the mend very very soon. All been well booked in for this coming Monday.
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Sorry to hear about your woes Jay. If you dont mind me asking whats the quote for the fix
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Around £600 to £700 mate.
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i honestly think this needs to go back to the lpg installer
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I cant believe that the Bishop was actually right all along with his sermon on LPG :icon_eek:
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i honestly think this needs to go back to the lpg installer
Kev,
I know what your saying, but surely they will just come back with wear and tear etc etc.
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after just 8 months ? harsh fuckers if they dint come at least part way
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I will give them a call, whats the best line to go down in my discussions?
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I gave you a perfectly good jeep with no problems, you fitted lpg kit, now engine has blown headgasket, sounds to me like you set the lpg up wrong and too lean and engine has now over heated. ( don't mention going to france in it), mutter about going to see trading standards and they said you should approach them first.
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also nagging in a dark corner of the back of my head is cylinders 1 2 3 are showing misfire so thats both banks of engine if gaskets are gone thats awful bad luck compression on cylinders tested would make me more happy
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Hopefully put your mind at rest. I think you'll find 1,2 and 3 are on the same bank. It's cylinder number not firing order.
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:017: i hope you are correct as that would help alay my thoughts i have always referred to cylinders by firing order and assumed that was the norm as it had been even at work
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Left bank is odd numbers, right bank is even. It's both heads unfortunately.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8055/8127195334_212f068e52.jpg)
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I stand corrected.
My BMW counts 1 to 4 left bank 5 to 8 right, Chrysler obviously like to do things differently, my Jeep is the girlie version with only 5 pots in it, so I've not needed that info.
Looks like its down to old fashion compression testing.
Having said that, considering it's going in for major surgery and the likely cause of it, if it was mine I think I'd consider having both sides done anyway.
Good luck.
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if confirmed both heads would be the natural cource
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When ever your free Kev, its here for you to do compression test then we can tow it to yours.
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When ever your free Kev, its here for you to do compression test then we can tow it to yours.
Jay, wondered about that: thought you couldn't tow a WJ..... permanent 4wd and all that jazz
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Main gerabox in Park, Transfer case in Neutral like an Xj or TJ maybe or cant you do that with a GC set up ?
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WJ FSM states all wheels off ground.
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sorta what i thought
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Any joy today then ?
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WJ FSM states all wheels off ground.
Hmmm thought so, didn't want you to add transmission/drivetrain issues to your woes :icon_winkle:
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any responce from lpg installer ?
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Its been LPG'd 18months,
Emailed him but is response is that its not going to be the LPG installation etc etc etc, TBH I just need to get it fixed.
Parts ordered, just need Kev to do his test then I will get it recovered to his on Trailer or Low loader.
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i have a mate with a recovery truck round the corner from me
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How much would he want?
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not sure he is a mate but still have no idea
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Question, how is towing it off an A frame any different to driving it?
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I think that the engine has to run to pump your fluids around.
Google is inconclusive. There seems to be inconsistancies between 4wd & 2wd jeep models.
this makes sence though : Never flat tow an automatic in neutral, if the internals of the trans moves and rotates with out the proper fluid flow, you will burn out the trans before you get to your destination.
Do I really have to go out in the rain now to get my service manual ?
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Got it anyway :icon_winkle:
Tow hooks on your vehicle are for emergency use only, to rescue a vehicle stranded off road.
DO NOT use tow hooks for tow truck hook up or highway towing. You could damage your vehicle.
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Have a look here http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208520 (http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208520)
Still contradicting themselves. I for one wouldn't do it
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Drop the props.
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:imwitstupid:
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The transfer box is designed to keep both output shafts turning at the same speed. If say, the rear output starts turning faster (ie. the rear wheels are spinning in mud) the mechanism effectively starts to lock up the rear shaft which progressively diverts power to the front one until both are rotating at the same speed again.
If the rear shaft only is forcibly turned by towing by rear wheels only, the TB will try to lock it up expecting the power to go to the front. Since the engine is off, there is no power and the TB will constantly try to stop the rear axle from turning. This will happen even if it's in N and will soon destroy the TB.
By the way, the same happens if you try driving in 2WD with one of the props removed.
If you tow with all 4 on the ground both shafts turn at the same speed so no problem.
It's easier for a manufacture to say never tow under any circumstances to save any confusion and lawsuits.
Personally I would not have problem towing my GC on all 4 with auto in P and TB in N. It's your Jeep and your cash so it's your call. If in doubt, as mentioned dis the props, it's easy on these as you don't even have to jack it up.
On the issue of towing eye points, take a look how well these are welded onto the main chassis rails. I've
towed plenty of cars using these. I've got a bar which is specifically designed to use these eyes and it's got a spring device to cushion the pull, have a look in the Screwfix catalogue.
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I was going to borrow Tank's A Frame (Tank can I borrow your A Frame please).
I thought that dropping the props off would be ok, its about 8no 10mm bolts isnt it at each end?
So is the consensus that removing the props and towing flat on all fours will be ok?
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jay I had to have a 4x4 towed in the states many years a go.
the tow guy dropped the props and there was no prob
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Cool, will drop tank a line for the A Frame in that case.
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As previously mentioned towing with the transmission in P and the transfer box in N is fine, you can tow quite along way too, with the auto box in P then its locked so nothing rotates, with the transfer box in N this allows the truck to be moved, the front shaft is viscous coupled so no wind up and the transfer box fluid pump is driven off the rear output shaft so lubricates the transfer box when its actually moving :greggmo: when you do your compression test if its possible get Kev to do a cylinder leak test too :icon_winkle:
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I can't take the suspense any longer.
If I lived closer I'd come round now and take the props off for you.
....and offer a tow!
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well supposing the props were of and a frame was attached what is doing the towing ? cos you wj is bigger than a zj ?
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Errrr Drag it off the XJ if we need to Kev, just go the route that doesnt involve the motorway to yours.
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Frankly my dear I don't give a dam!!!
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Bubba mobile mechanics will be out this afternoon,
Tank's supplied the Frame.
GazJeep vehicle collection and delivery services is booked in to provide the tow rig as the Panzer is a weighty beast.
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Bubba mobile mechanics will be out this afternoon,
Tank's supplied the Frame.
GazJeep vehicle collection and delivery services is booked in to provide the tow rig as the Panzer is a weighty beast.
'Kinell you really called out the cavallery :icon_eek:
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That is what good mates do.
Update, after Kev spent a couple of hrs on it this afternoon it seems that:
No2 Valve is screwed, seems to have failed in the open position therefore letting gases escape causing the misfire on 1 and 2.
Compressions are from 145 - 150 psi, but on No2 psi reads 0.
So going to have to get in touch with the LPG installer as "Valve Saver" was installed for a reason.
Thanks for this afternoon Kev,
FYI he did need to stand on a spare tyre to reach the engine :lol_hitting:
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I am beyond fucked off with reading bullshit like this
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I am beyond fucked off with reading bullshit like this
explain .... :017:
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:017:
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Anyway back on track, just emailed the installer and will report back once I hear back from him.
He is normally hot on the email, and I was in touch with him the week it went tits up as its due a service on the lpg in a 1000mile.
I have said that I have all the required gaskets (£400) if he had to get them from Jeep or a motor factors, I said that I will supply those to him.
Showing some consideration from my end early on.
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Ade :greggmo:
:popcorn: but i should ask everyone what flavour first :icon_winkle:
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The valve may have failed regardless of running on LPG or petrol, even with flashlube/valvelube/valvesaver fitted the V8 suffers badly from valve seat recession running on LPG ... the valves are made of extremely runny cheese and dont hold up too well from LPG which is a totally dry fuel, its octane rating is much higher then petrol and generates more heat within the combustion chamber, if one has suffered then get them all done, but dont be surprised if they fail again.
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The ol' I6 will drink any old shit,that v8,well,that's a bit more of a connoisseur :jpshakehead
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has to go back to installer in my mind
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i have a theory that the valve save fluid is not reaching the front cylinders
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what type of lpg system is it, single point, multipoint injection, sequential ??
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mulitpoint but saver fluid goes in to rear of throttle body does not seem to have any kind of vaporizer just drips in to the rear of body i wonder if it simply does not vaporize enough to get to front cylinders or even weather delivers enough fluid throttle body is to rear of inlet manifold
lpg and petrol are both delivered by injector to ports
i could be in the dark but thats what i was wondering
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to be honest most systems run that way, so I doubt it would make any difference, maybe the 4.7 is just one of those engines that can't deal with it.
has got me wondering tho if it would be easier to just add some lead replacement additive to the petrol so that when it starts it coats them?
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I imagine I will get a reply off him on Monday, so will let you know what he says.
I was thinking that I one valve has failed what are the others going to be like.
Compression should be from 140 to 180 psi, mine are 145ish, so lower end of scale.
If this due to its age and miles 96k or could it be the others on their way out as well?
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As I said if one has failed then get them all checked and done VSR is a bugger with the V8's and will fail again after a rebuild, but should last a good while before vsr sets in again, if that is indeed what is wrong, but get it checked first with your lpg fitter hopefully he will get it sorted for you :icon_winkle: ... see here, this is quite a good guide for anyone wanting to fit an lpg system
http://www.amrautos.co.uk/database_problem_cars.pdf (http://www.amrautos.co.uk/database_problem_cars.pdf)
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hmmm i seem to be very much out of my depth i gracefully decline to make my self look foolish and refer the problem on to my learned friend panic should the installer welch on the warranty ....................... i think he may need 3 wheels to stand on but heyhoo
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Kevin if the LPG installer doesn't play ball there is only one place it's going.
I will throw the spare in so you can reach lol.
I use panic for those jobs where it involves lying on the floor in the rain
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Kevin if the LPG installer doesn't play ball there is only one place it's going.
I will throw the spare in so you can reach lol.
I use panic for those jobs where it involves lying on the floor in the rain
Your going to be waiting for some considerable time then?
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The system I had put on the WK 5.7 is a multi-point injection and the valve lube fluid is pumped individually to each injector boss via a swept T piece. I can see how a single point of injection onto the plenum could indeed lead to issues :(
All the research I did before I went for LPG on mine said that the 5.7 was fine with LPG but being the paranoid sort, I figured why not have the added safety of the valve lube option.
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Well either way mine is dead.
I am going to be looking at a few £££ to sort out the mullered valve and sort the rest at the same time I think.
Do I spend at a guess £600 ish and just sort out the broken valve, or do I go down the route of changing or what ever they need the other 7 whilst its apart at a cost of ????
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Has the head/s been pulled yet ??
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I guess you have to work out how much it is worth if all was running well & go from there to see if it is worth doing our moving on for spares or a replacement engine from a motor being stripped
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unless you strike lucky in the spares dept.... Reckon a sad breaking is in order.....
is it worth getting most of the LPG kit stripped off to use on a 6cyl 4 litre (yes I know brain and injectors will be different) but could help reduce costs....... All the shiny bits off and saved for later.... :icon_biggrin:
not ideal I know but the 6s love LPG......had mine on the. 1 Tonne for 5 years........ deep Joy :icon_super:
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The hippy speaks sense young Jedi :icon_winkle:
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the lpg kit can be reprogrammed for 6 cyl i believe
and so can the injectors
I'm sure the panic will confirm
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I dont want to scrap it TBH, its to nicer a Jeep to loose.
Need to Sell the RX8 when its back and put the money into the WJ.
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mine has done 111k on LPG the head gasket went not the vavles, my flashlube was not working for 40,000 of those (the twisty bit had closed), just depends, LPG likes long runs and thats what mine gets, either way its just bad luck.
Hate to say this Jay but I am with Jezz on this, weigh it in and get an I6, they dont sound as good but it will go on forever
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thats true bout long runs, not had any probs bar blocked filters until i have started shufflin back and forth on short trips for work
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Indeed the six is sexksy for LPG.
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Ok, so I get what £700 for it as it stands.
Then what can I get if I put another grand to it, sweet FA thats what.
But I can spend a grand on the WJ and still have a nice ride.
Thats my dilema, plus if we scrap the WJ it wont be another one we get. Maybe a KJ depending on whats about.
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Forget GHAY and look at ML500.
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TBH, as we now do not need to tow a horse trailer as we have the lorry,
My on order insignia will tow our caravan if needed, so ML500 just seems excessive.
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Ok, so I get what £700 for it as it stands. Then what can I get if I put another grand to it, sweet FA thats what.
But I can spend a grand on the WJ and still have a nice ride.
:iagree: Think I said that in the beginning of this thread.
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insignia :die:
when did you chop your cock off
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insignia :die:
when did you chop your cock off
Insignia SRI through work, will cost me £65 a months with BIK, makes sense for work miles I am going.
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what about the blown gearbox? cos its a weak box and as a wise man once said," you know you have got no life and no style left, when you drive a vauxhall......!"
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RIP jay :jpshakehead:
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he went so young :010:......... but at least i got 8 more weekends free from now on! :icon_super:
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Well, it could turn into Passat Highline. Just depends which has the shorter lead time!!!! Anyway its only for the motorway mile crunching nothing else.
Rob, I still got the XJ, so you know that is going to need some work for MOT when the time comes.
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Ok, so if I am looking at around £600 / £700 to strip down and sort out the mulered no2 valve, and put new gaskets on both sides.
How much should I expect to spend more to get all 8 valves re seated and what is involved with sorting them out.
I know its fucked, but what gets done, what is replaced in order to sort it out?
Cheers
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Ave you actually got the head off to see exactly what the problem is ?? could just be a head gasket seeing as they are prone to blowing em cos of the soft cheesy heads, a cylinder leak test would tell you if it was a gasket or a leaking valve :greggmo:
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No, It going to have to go to someone to do it.
Dont want to have to pay out to have it stripped to find out its a no go if I can help it.
Surely if it was the HG still we would be seeing compression issues on to adjacent valves, not 7 with around 145psi and then only 1 valve with 0.
All the googling says 2 readings next to each other would be effected.
Kev was confident the HG is ok, hence the valve dilema and if 1 needs doing surly all the others should be done.
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Ok so am I correct in thinking that if it is the valves ideally I need:
new hardened valve seats installed in the head, and new valves?
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Ahh right im getting my head around this now alot of confusion is getting in by the use of the word valve instead of cylinder I think, so you have 7 cylinders fairly normal and one cylinder at zero, which would initially indicate a valve problem, a blown head gasket would normally produce some form of compression and yes Kev is right in what he has told you no question, a blown gasket between two cylinders would normally produce very similar if not the same low compression figures, sometimes they will blow to oil, the cost here is coming in from having to get someone to do the work for you, several choices you have here (1) just book it in and get the particular valve/valves replaced (2) phone around some engine repair specialists and get a quote for reworked heads with stronger valves (if they are available) (3) get another second hand head and fit that (4) get another engine and swap (5) break it and get an equivalent model with a 4 litre inline 6 remove the lpg system off yours and gas that, either way its going to cost a bit of cash, (its probably an exhaust valve) but you are not going to know the exact problem until the relevant head has been removed anyway, it may just be the valve burnt away or maybe Valve seat recession or both or the valve maybe just carboned up stopping it from seating properly and sealing, get the head whipped off first then take it from there, knowing exactly what is wrong will help you with your decision because if any other valves in the other cylinders are fubar then its fairly certain the other bank will be worn too but if its only one valve then you may be looking at a different cause for failure.
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I've had a valve seat fall out of a V8 head before as well.
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your options and very appreciated.
1: cheapest option but then am I on a ticking bomb for the others to fail.
2: requested a garage I use and trust to work this out for me, Also sent an enquiry off to a local recommended engine reconditoner to re do my engne.
3: If I get a second hand head, would I just need to have the heads swapped? any other parts required (apart from the gasket kit)?
4: Sent some enquires for replacement engine, but I also then need to budget to have my LPG re installed on the replacement engine.
5: This is looking like an option at the moment :010:
I am right in thinking to have my engine's valves and seats done, that been all 8 I would be looking at around £1500 ball park?
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The lpg system is un affected by swapping the heads etc, the injectors are fitted into the manifold which would be removed from the heads then replaced onto the heads regardless of repair or replaced, if it were me, I would pull the head, see what the problem is, probably source another one, have it skimmed, bung it on and run it on petrol only until I decided to sell it for summat else, preferably the same with a 4.0L which will run forever and a day happily on the most abysmal of crude setups.
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Jay, I don't know how handy you are? these aren't hard engines to work on when everything is out of the way but I would rebuild it if it were mine! Valves, your looking at about a fiver each if you get them through an engineering firm that knows their salt, roughly £100 per head for knew seats & the head refacing, then lap em' in yourself, then you need a top end gasket set, head bolts, new oat coolant, & new oil & filter, doing the work yourself looking at about £500 all in! It's a no brainer to me! you just need to know a good engineering frim that you trust or come highly recommended, try to find out which firm local garages use, you will find they all use the same firm, then add 35-50% to the bill! The firm I use recently did me a pair of sierra 4x4 heads, all new valves, new hardened seats, new guides & skimmed for £120 & turn around was same day.
Stop thinking doom & gloom & looking for another engine, unless it has completely dropped a valve & eaten the bore & piston or been pinking like a twat & done a piston (in which case it's your lpg installers fault) rebuild it then you know what you have! if you drop a second hand lump in it how long till your in the same boat again?? these engines were made of monkey metal & don't like running warm! I was talking to Nick about his the other day & we both agreed that if his wasn't doing long runs all the time I would be looking at the rad & thermostat to make it run slightly cooler.
Just my ten pence worth.
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Cheers Chaps, TBH I have done a head before.
I know the local recommended place that heads and things go to and that all the garages use.
I guess if I am thinking its screwed already, what harm can I cause.
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Thats the spirit :icon_super:
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Just out of interest Jay, where in relation to the 100 on the temp gauge did your needle sit around, mine is one mark below the 100
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Cheers Chaps, TBH I have done a head before.
I know the local recommended place that heads and things go to and that all the garages use.
I guess if I am thinking its screwed already, what harm can I cause.
There you go :greggmo: at the end of the day its only nuts n bolts, pull it off, machine shop for the work, they will supply the gaskets n new head bolts etc, refitting will need a bit of care especially when it comes to the head tightening sequence but straight forward enough, if the final torque up is angular then just draw a line on the head bolts and tighten using a simple protractor :icon_biggrin:
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Jedi - All I know is that it sits just under 1/2 (as you know its Nat's Daily drive), she did say on a couple of occasions it rose to half which it never did before.
Demonicwillow - I have got the gasket kit and bolts already so part way there. I am off work on Wednesday, may have a crack at it.
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you got a torque wrench
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Old school one, not a decent one.
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Got a modern one you can borrow if needed think I've got a angular one to
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Thanks Dave, much appreciated.
Fingers crossed the weather is ok Wednesday and I will get at it.
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Let me know if you want a hand on Wednesday as I'm off as well.
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Cheers, I was thinking of of starting it early afternoon as I have to be in court (access to son) at 10:30 for an hour.
If your up for it though I would really appreciate an afternoons hand.
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get it ll stripped down and i know where there is a decent sensibly priced machine shop that will sort it for you.
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Thanks Rob, It seems a plan is forming.
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Evening All,
Big thanks to DONK for this afternoon, when I got home at lunch time he was already working away on the WJ.
So we have the head off and this is the problem, slipped liner.
I am away now until next week so on Tuesday I will pull the other head and get them sent away for new liners and valves. From there we can get it re built and back on the road
[attachment=1]
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That's the valve seat fallen out. Fuck, I'm good :icon_super:
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Mike, do you have a work shop manual you could email for when we re do the timing?
Please.
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first time i bin on birtys for a week glad your on the way jay it would seem mike and myself were indeed right all the best dood
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Think I have
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Cheers mate.
Let me know.
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I'm sure you can find one on wjjeeps or elsewhere on the web
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JonnyJeep has just sent me one.
Cheers Guys.
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Evening All,
Big thanks to DONK for this afternoon, when I got home at lunch time he was already working away on the WJ.
So we have the head off and this is the problem, slipped liner.
I am away now until next week so on Tuesday I will pull the other head and get them sent away for new liners and valves. From there we can get it re built and back on the road
[attachment=1]
Tis a whole lot easier to know what your going to do as per repairs once the head is off, shouldnt be too costly to sort that out, could have been a whole lot worse, but as the seat has slipped out would be worth having your local lpg fella to make sure the flash/valve lube is reaching all the inlets as Kev previously hinted at :greggmo:
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Its due a gas service once its running so will ensure that is checked out.
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i know of a place near me (my local LPG mechanic), there is a 4.7 HO out of the car and would sell
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Should only be a couple of hundred to get my heads rebuilt Nick. That way I know they are perfect as opposed to used.
Cheers through dude.
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you have had same symptoms at same time as me yikes :icon_sad:
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Mine was no2 cylinder had dropped the valve seat, heads rebuilt and all gaskets replaced
Took a while to do but saved huge labour bills
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Good Grief Jay you have been through the mill with th V8, hope its sorted for you/Mrs soon. :banghead:
Stuart
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Good Grief Jay you have been through the mill with th V8, hope its sorted for you/Mrs soon. :banghead:
Stuart
WTF!!!
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This is a thread from a couple of months ago Stu, that minor problem is sorted!
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It always said on my school reports, must be more observant. Hey ho Blues back to the fire and tv.
Stuart
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It always said on my school reports, must be more observant. Hey ho Blues back to the fire and tv.
Stuart
Your going to have to swallow for that one!!!
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Death before swallow :lol_hitting: :pop:
S