Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: Dutch on October 21, 2012, 04:24:57 PM
-
Boys,
Told you that my handbrake needed tweaking for forth coming MOT. Well it'll have to wait. Rear NS brakes were ..... say ..... somewhat lubricated. :icon_eek:
Had a look in the Haynes manual but non the wiser as what to do. Don't even know what type axle I've got under there.
Kev I think you did the OS one last year in prep for MOT prior to my taking posession of Blue.
Can you (Bubba, sparky, WillCJ, and/or all the other CJ owners/spannerers .... no need to ask BD :003:) please give me an idiot guide how to tackle this one ?
Got all the brake bits now nicely cleaned on a white rag in some fashion of order of disassembly, with the rear brake pad still hanging off the brake line. That'll be fun putting that back together on its own :icon_rolleyes:
Look forward to your advice.
As ever ..... your numpty spannerer Dutch.
-
please give me an idiot guide how to tackle this one ?
phone lighthouse
give then year make model and side
give them address and credit card
let them take £14 for new slave cylinder
next day answer door to postman and sign for packet
FIT THE SLAVE CYLINDER
:hysterical:
-
please give me an idiot guide how to tackle this one ?
phone lighthouse
give then year make model and side
give them address and credit card
let them take £14 for new slave cylinder
next day answer door to postman and sign for packet
FIT THE SLAVE CYLINDER
:hysterical:
Mr. N-Bolt ..... erm .... outer axle seal please ? ? :jpshakehead:
-
I think he's been clubbing....
-
as above but for slave cylinder read outer axle seal :098:
not a small job m8, its a half shaft out and if I remember correctly you need to change the bearings too
-
as above but for slave cylinder read outer axle seal :098:
not a small job m8, its a half shaft out and if I remember correctly you need to change the bearings too
I value your stellar clarity of mind.....but...... HOW..... :hysterical:
-
Have you got one piece or two piece shafts?
-
Or is there a nut at the end of the drive shaft (2 piece) or not (1 piece)?
-
Trust they "KY" to bring this thread down to the number of nuts!!!
-
we have heard you like to be covered in nuts!
-
Nut's from your lass but not you numb nuts!!!
-
Or is there a nut at the end of the drive shaft (2 piece) or not (1 piece)?
:102:
[attachment=1]
-
Look like 2 piece to me :icon_twisted: Opportunity to go spendy and get one piece and stuff :icon_twisted:
-
amc 20....
-
Nut's from your lass but not you numb nuts!!!
my wife does not have nuts! im assuming your wife does!.....your one sick puppy isle of man. you little rascal
-
Erm there should be a nut and a split pin on there Dutch :icon_eek:
If i remember there is an inner oil seal and an outer oil seal, so presumably both are shot but mending the inner one would solve your main problem with the leaking oil. The wheel bearing is supposed to be greased not oiled by the way.
You can either remove the hub with a puller(good luck) and then undo the retaining nuts and pull the shaft and that way the bearing can stay in place on the shaft and then you can change both seals.
Or you can undo the retaining nuts, pull the shaft out, cut the bearing off and do both seals that way but then you need to press the new bearing on.
If you do it this way you can not bother cutting the bearing and just change the inner seal which will solve your oil problem but the outer seal will maybe still allow water into the bearing.
Another way and what i did with mine eventually to get the hub off, was to pull the shaft out with the hub attached and stick it in a press to remove it and if you do that then again bearing can stay on the shaft.
The hub is unlikely to want to come off especially if there has been no nut holding it on to start with and they are supposed to be a pain to tighten up again as well. I have never tried as i found a D44 for the scrambler with 4.27 ratio so fit that instead,l but i do remember stripping the amc 20 as i was going to re-use it and it wasn't pleasant
-
I truly bow to the oracle that is the "KY" crew....
-
Erm there should be a nut and a split pin on there Dutch :icon_eek:
yep. there is a big nut + split pin but that holds the brakedrum on (+3 little phillips head bolts) thru the brake drum.
-
I truly bow to the oracle that is the "KY" crew....
Manxman..... for once your not helping so can we keep the physical attributes till later :003:
-
That's what I just said...
-
Erm there should be a nut and a split pin on there Dutch :icon_eek:
yep. there is a big nut + split pin but that holds the brakedrum on (+3 little phillips head bolts) thru the brake drum.
The big nut and the split pin dont hold the drum on dude, they hold the flange to the shaft :pop:
-
That big nut stops your wheel falling off!
This may help a bit Dutch, Bubba may be the best man to assist you though as he has reassembled before.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/amc-20-axle-seal-replacement-1061234/ (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/amc-20-axle-seal-replacement-1061234/)
-
yup big nut holds the flange to the shaft you need to but the nut back on a few threads [to stop the flange killing you] when you use a good puller to seperate it from the shaft then you will have access to the back plate bolts and seal plate i have over the years found that some cjs only had and outboard seal so bearing got oiled i spose not that it matters re the seal but his axle is a widetrac amc 20
-
Ok boys thanks for the above.
On a practical note and funny enough I have to perform the somewhat same operation on two trucks :
On the CJ7 : if I get this flange off and remove the seal plate can I just pull this shaft out - does the other end fit into a socket into the pumpkin or something ? - and will all the oil come rushing out of the pipe ?
Have to do same on WJ OS forward. Found a half shaft + CV joint in Belgium (via Dutch Jeepforum). Dismantle disc & caliper and hub bits and then pull shaft out.
So is oil only contained in pumpkin or do these shafts turn in an oil bath ?
Gratefull for clarifying.
-
On your 7 if you do manage to get the flange off and undo the four bolts then the shaft will come out complete with bearing, its just on some splines in the diff and has no retainer
I think you are supposed to use a slide hammer, but i just put the hub on finger tight with the lock nut and whacked it with a soft hammer to get it out.
If oil rushes out then you have far too much oil in the diff. The fill plug is on the nose of the diff somewhere on the amc 20 and you will find thats the level the oil should be at and it should hopefully be below the axle tubes :003:
WJ no idea too new for me :017:
-
right then you feckers.....grabbed the bull by the proverbial
In the absence of a flange puller undid the 4 bolts on the brake back plate and the whole shaft slid out without any hesitation like a dick out of a virgin :003:
Two observations :
could not get the old seal out, left behind in the tube, without destroying it :011: hope I have not damaged the seat.
Whereas the thread on Jeepclub speaks of sealer on brake backplate to tube and dust seal to backplate all is rotating loose covered in oily shiet. Also inbetween the the drum backplate and tube I found 3 shims, 1 fat one and 2 skinny ones. The bearing came out in one and does not look to bad. Needs a lot of cleaning up to get rid of contamination in there.
Will organize a puller because I want to clean the whole lot up.
Does the above seem ok to you. Clean up and re-install the way it came out ? What are the shims there for ?
Also what would the oil look like ? or better what should it look like. Got 20 lts of 75W90 so no probs to do a change. Do I need additive, friction modifier whatchamacallit ?
Cheers :icon_jook:
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
-
kin hell i have tried to reply to this thread 5 times but the web site is fookin shit at the moment a bit fed up now
-
kin hell i have tried to reply to this thread 5 times but the web site is fookin shit at the moment a bit fed up now
Nooooo....... please dont give up Bubs ..... afterall you're the guru on this stuff :icon_super:
-
I used a press and pressed the hub off on one of mine, just make sure you put the nut on as it goes with a bang and tries to go through your foot been there done that etc. :icon_redface:
Your inner seal is shot Dutch and its that one you need more than the outer as the bearing should be running in grease not oil.
Put the shims back where you found them, they are there to take up the end play on the shaft.
There is supposed to be some sealer somewhere, but you need Bubba or someone else to tell you where as i have never reassembled one, mine is still in bits :003: