Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: robwheatley on March 22, 2013, 09:34:40 PM
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Hi Everyone
New to the forum so please be gentle with me......
Had an injector fail (leakoff) on the Jeep and went to replace it today, its had black death from that injector and silly me I had not got round to fixing it.
Anyhow, put a socket on the injector clamp and went to undo it and SNAP, it has sheared off in the head where the thread starts, its on number 4 cylinder btw.
Now the questions, has anyone else had this?
Can the head be removed with the engine in place or does the engine have to be removed?
I know the bolt has lock tight on it so what are the chances of removing the remainders of the bolt?
Is the head the same as on the ML270Cdi (will it fit the jeep block)
and finally would a ML270Cdi engine fit the jeep?
Sorry for all the questions but need some help.
Rob
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Hi Rob,
Welcome to Birties.................. and my sympathy :011:
Had a 2.7 CRD for 6 years ..... since last Friday swapped for a WK. :icon_super: ...... I'm free .........I'm free.....I'm free :eusa_dance: :eusa_dance:
Have had every conceivable 2.7 CRD symptom under the sun but always had issues fixed by garage.
Not nerdy enough to answer your questions.
An anorak will be along shortly. :icon_winkle:
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Some brave soul on here will know or failing that see here,the mobile dude will know...........http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=22026.msg257845#msg257845
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Thanks for the info, does anyone know how much metal there is around the bolt as im thinking of drilling to old one out and putting a helicoil in.
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I just got rid of my 2003 WJ overland, had it 6 yrs trouble free, but gremlins creeping up on the electricals, also minor dents needed repair. All in all we reckoned around a grand this year gave it and £800 for a Ssangyong 320 2005 44k FSH, Ssangyongs are essentially merc MLs . Now looking for a fun motor.
Sorry to read about the prob, from other posts on here, it looks like the head will have to come off, if the other bits can't be undone you may unfortunately need another head. I'm anything but an expert, there are some very good helpful people on here who will help and advise.
Good luck
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Thanks for the info, does anyone know how much metal there is around the bolt as im thinking of drilling to old one out and putting a helicoil in.
Mother in law had the same problem, helicoil's didnt work. they just blew back out several times.
I would say from experience new head is the way to go if you cannot get the existing out.
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Have you tried a 'easy out' tool bit on it yet? They are made for just that problem and I've removed some tricky broken studs in the past with them.
A lot cheaper than a new head.
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i am not a fan of easy outs take care
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Good quality ones should give you no trouble.
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Been looking for a new head but none about just complete engines @ £900
I will try an easy out BUT the only problem with them is IF they snap then there is not way of drilling it out.
I was going to put thread lock on the helicoil and the new bolt and also see if there is the depth to use 2 coils and not just one.
I'm going to cut the scuttle to give me access, give it a squirt of easy start so I can run it till its hot in the hope that the injector will free up a bit as it is smothered in carbon, once the injector is out I will be able to get to the old bolt and see what needs doing..
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Been looking for a new head but none about just complete engines @ £900
I will try an easy out BUT the only problem with them is IF they snap then there is not way of drilling it out.
I was going to put thread lock on the helicoil and the new bolt and also see if there is the depth to use 2 coils and not just one.
I'm going to cut the scuttle to give me access, give it a squirt of easy start so I can run it till its hot in the hope that the injector will free up a bit as it is smothered in carbon, once the injector is out I will be able to get to the old bolt and see what needs doing..
That is what we did second time round after the first helicoil failed, needless to say the second one failed
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Does anyone know how much of the thread goes into the head, I cannot get the clamp out yet as there is too much black crap about, the bolt sheared off just as the thread starts so there might be some sticking out to get a stud remover onto it??
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Does anyone know how much of the thread goes into the head, I cannot get the clamp out yet as there is too much black crap about, the bolt sheared off just as the thread starts so there might be some sticking out to get a stud remover onto it??
From memory its quite long but I cannot recall exactly how long (not much help I know)
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Another method that I've used is to drill the snapped stud out, starting small and increasing the drill size until you get it all out and have a smooth sided hole and then retap a good thread for an over sized (diameter) stud.
I've had to do this with head studs on 351 cu inch Ford V8 head a few times and got a result every time. Never managed to snap an easy out tool though..half a teaspoon of acetone soon gives loctite a headache!
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Good quality ones should give you no trouble.
that is not my concern i have found they tend to spread the stud or bolt you are removing and jam it in harder still to the point the easy out shears
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I see what you mean Sheriff..if you have a smallish hole down the centre of the stud and then use a jackhammer to force the tool in, that will happen for sure. The best way is to drill the hole until it's almost the diameter of the stud itself leaving only half a millimetre of meat for the tool to grip..run a tap down there, after the majority of thread is out , or revert to plan 'B' as mentioned above.
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According to the parts manual its a M6 x 79 high tensile bolt with 55mm of thread.
If they're the OE bolts then the high tensile steel will be almost as hard as the drill bit and in view of its position is going to be a pig to drill out without damaging the alloy around it.
If it's broken at the head, if you know someone who's good with a TIG, you can try placing a nut and washer over it and fill it with weld then have go with a socket, this also heat shocks it which can help. This is your only choice if you've got a bit of Easyout in it. Sounds a bit drastic but I've seen it done to get an exhaust stud out of an alloy motorbike head.
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Cheers Luke..that's still a cheaper try than a 8-900 pound head.
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The Injector was firmly stuck in the head with the clamp jammed in too so cannot see hwat remains of the bolt until I remove it, due to the leakoff it refused to start but I managed to get it running yesterday, had to use easy start but the injector DID move up a few mm as I can see the top is higher that the rest of them.
The plan is to run it up over the weekend and get it nice and hot then try and remove the injector to see what the score is.
Will the number 4 come out without cutting the scuttle? there doesn't seem to be much room above it.
Another thing I noticed is that even after running it for a good 20 mins there was still a LOT of bubbles in the fuel line from the filter to the pump so guessing there is an air leak somewhere, I have bought a Facet fuel pump & non return valve to install as I don't like the idea of not being able to bleed the filter/lines.
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Just as well you've got 4 days to this weekend.
Good Luck.
Also, I came across this a few weeks ago, I saved it in case I need to do mine (touch wood), its got some good photos on it, so you see what to expect and details of a seat cutting tool.
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Hey all.
It was warm enough to have a go at the Jeep today, got it started and ran it till hot, drilled a hole in the scuttle while I was waiting, disconnected the injector and though here we go now for the struggle BUT with a bit of twisting out came the injector.
Cleaned all the crap out of the way and found the retainer bolt is about 8mm below the top surface of the head, tried to drill it bit its way too hard, my drill bits wont touch it...
Any idea if there is a drill bit that will cut it..
If I cannot get the bolt out then its a new head or engine (anyone got a spare head???????)
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A carbide drill will do it, the only problem is they’re very brittle and should be used in a drill press not a hand drill, you’ll have more chance winning the lottery than not breaking it if it's done in situ. They’re also expensive and you’ll never get the broken piece out.
Looks like it’s head off and down to the machine shop or swapping it out.
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Update for you all.
Well I bought a 3.9mm Carbide drill bit and made a sleeve to fit the hole above the bolt to center the bit, it worked perfectly and managed to drill down the middle, tried an easy out and it just sheared the top part off so drilled a bit deeper and hey presto out came the remains of the bolt.
Cleaned the thread with a tap, some solvent and compressed air and in went the new injector & seal.
Held my breath and after a few seconds it started with no blow by.
One happy Easter Bunny.
Thanks for all the help, you never know we might even take it for some off roading sometime at the Hop Farm although it is Standard.......
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:jump_125: :jump_125: :jump_125: :jump_125:
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Well done RW, it's always satisfying when something goes to plan :icon_super:
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Well done RW. Word of caution, keep a close eye on it. Wouldn't be the first time the WJ spits it out ...... just to bite you in the back side ..... for kicks. :003:
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Glad that method worked for you mate..I was beginning to doubt my own advice, even though I've done it a dozen times before.
:icon_super:
As Dutch said..keep a close eye on it. Maybe a tension check after a couple of good runs would be in order.
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Good news, well done with that drill bit.
I would leave the bolt alone and if needed, just check the injector with soapy water. Those high tensile bolts should come with thread lock on and are designed to be torqued down once, if you loosen it or interfere with it the strength is affected and it should be thrown away and a new one fitted.
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Well done RW. Word of caution, keep a close eye on it. Wouldn't be the first time the WJ spits it out ...... just to bite you in the back side ..... for kicks. :003:
Yes, without been negative just be warned. I have been there and after a few miles about 50 I seem to recall it spat it back out.
Fingers crossed yours stays in place though.
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Yes I will keep an eye on it, going to check it at the weekend after the OH has used it for work.
I was surprised how far down in the hole the thread started, the hole was full of black crud so no wonder the bolt sheared off as the engine was cold when I tried to remove it (the leakoff was so bad it refused to start)
With the drilling it was SKILL :lol_hitting: (no just a lot of luck) to be able to drill that length of bolt right down the middle, a decent bit helped big time, it is still as sharp as it was new as well.