Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: IrishCJ6 on June 03, 2013, 09:02:59 PM
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Looking for advise, has anyone had them done? Any pointers on what parts were used. Looking at doing the valve guides and while I'm at it possibly fit new valves and springs? Looking at kit from the US that has everything in it. Heard different reviews and comments regarding AMC valve guides/fitment and what type to use so keen to know what you guys have used.
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Would think it was a specialist job for an engine remanufacturers who could pressure test them and tell you if there is anything wrong with them in the first place :die:
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You can test for leakage around the valve seats by just spraying some brake cleaner on top of each valve, and see if any gets through. If they're coked up though its not a bad job (but BORING one) to clean them up and relap them.
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Valve seats aren't leaking it's probably the valve guides, already done leak down test and no issues.
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The valve guides are machined as part of the head casting and that it is deffo not a diy job
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Ade I know its not a DIY job, I just want to find out about what needs to be done, on previous cars I've owned the heads had valve guides that were pressed in or removalable and thus new ones only required removal of the originals and pressing/fitting in of the new ones, whilst I was at it I usually got the valves/seats reground and if required hardened seats installed. What can be done with the AMC heads, the kits I've seen say they have valve guides included in the kit however, if the guide is part of the head casting how is this machined/removed. Again I'm just trying to find out information before I hand of the heads to a machinist and then get a barrage of questions/problems thrown at me.
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I had mine done at B and H in Doncaster a long time ago, not sure if they're still there....
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Dont think they are
And I realy think you will end uup doing a full ring job ........ why not do it now if heads are off
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If a head shop has any questions on how to do the work walk way. This is a tricky but common issue on older heads so they should know what they are doing. If they are asking what mater type you want for the guides you have found your man.
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[And I realy think you will end uup doing a full ring job ........ why not do it now if heads are off
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The heads are still on, at the mo the Jeep is my daily driver (not going far) so I can't afford to have it stripped down waiting for parts. Will possibly look at it over winter. It seems a shame to strip an engine that only needs rings, but hey if its what has to be done so be it.
If a head shop has any questions on how to do the work walk way. This is a tricky but common issue on older heads so they should know what they are doing. If they are asking what mater type you want for the guides you have found your man.
I know what you mean but trust me things are not normal here in Ireland, I'm going to go have a talk to a couple of machinists and see what happens.
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Is your engine a very high miler
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Is your engine a very high miler
Have no idea as it was one of Ade's beauties, he did know where it came out of but I have no idea on the mileage. There are no tags on the rocker cover so I can't ID the engine either but based upon a few engine part details I believe it to be a late 70's engine?
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it was outa the waggy that dream cars sliced down the middle so it could be stuck up on the wall of a couple of shops in germany (Gap I think) so the waggy externally was mint which at least suggested it was low mileage, but no idea other than that
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It makes me ponder as all the amc v8s I ran never had guide isues I did change stem seals but never had guide problems and some were long in the tooth and shown no mercy
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I think I may have fixed the problem :ace:
I had a chat with a friend (mechanic) back home in NZ who competes in his AMC 360 powered Jeep about my oil usage problem to see if he had any ideas. So after a lengthy talk we have decided to try a different oil combo and remove the PVC valve from the carb.
So on Friday I did an oil change and have switched from a 15w40 to a 20w50 high quality mineral oil, now here is the combo bit. I'm now running a 50/50 mix of 20w50 and Lucas Oil Stabiliser. I was nervous to use this much (2 litres stabiliser to 2.5 litres of oil) but I was told if I'm careful on startup (don't use in anger until warm) that all will be fine and actually the engine will love it especially offroad where pressures drop and speeds are low and under strain. I have also switched to a K & N (white) oil filter. So I did the oil change and made sure oil levels were ok, I then went wheeling on Sunday, hard mud trip. Came home and washed it yesterday and re dipped the engine and guess what, no oil used :icon_super: Now before the same usage would have netted about a 1 litre oil consumption. Whilst this was only the first test I will still have to see how it preforms on a longer period but early results look promising. Oh and I gained about 10 psi average of oil pressure so I have good oil pressure at low RPM now which is great offroad and at angles.
As for the PCV valve, we disconnected it from the carb and have blocked the carb inlet and have the PCV valve running through a breather filter attached to the firewall. After a few weeks I'm going to reinstall the PCV valve back onto the carb and see if it makes any difference (i.e. does it start using again once reconnected).
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Damn, another thread I need to bookmar and cant :banghead:
Let us know how it goes please mate
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Damn, another thread I need to bookmar and cant :banghead:
Whats the matter with the 'Add Bookmark' button down there on the right :017:
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:102: cant see owt on mine - got a screenshot?
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Shows on my PC and my phone :017:
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Not on my screen.
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not on mine either
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That may indeed be the issue I used 20/50 in mine as it was cheap plentyfull