Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: hasey on May 28, 2014, 05:15:31 PM
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Hi everyone and thanks for the add, I'm new to the Jeep scene and just got my first, a Cherokee 2.5TD 2000 plate and love it, do have a few questions though.
First off just yesterday I noticed the oil pressure gauge dropped down to zero and have noticed it's sitting at zero on tick over but rises when revved/driven, dropping back down when stopping and revs are down, oil level fine, should I but worried? I know this usually indicates a problem somewhere.
Secondly I have a loud noise from the back end, like a juddery clumping creaking noise on the suspension (don't know how to explain it) , I know it's hard to diagnose without hearing, was thinking of replacing the rear shocks. Even when slowly reversing out of my drive or any gentle bounce or movement.
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Welcome
Have a look underneath and see if there is a lot of oil on the gear box
the crank and cam seals go on these
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Thanks will drag myself under it for a check if it ever stops p-ing down lol
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Get under on a body board, you'll keep your bum drier that way!
And while you're under there, hiding from the rain, grab the propshaft and see if your universal joints are okay, if they're knackered it's no biggie but you don't want it letting go while you're driving.
Second thoughts:
If you bought from a garage, take it back and ask them to kindly fix it, quoting the 'Sale of Goods Act' and 'fit for purpose' etc!
Welcome and good luck.
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I think the knocking noise is from suspension, only does it when there's vertical movement, seems fine when running straight. Am worried about the oil pressure though. Was bought privately secondhand so pretty much stuck with any problems.
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shock absorber bushes?
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On the VM engine oil pressure problems are normally terminal, one needs to check the sender first, as for the knocking, check ALL bushings both for tight (as in FT) and sign of any wear symptoms, one has to ask, have you checked the rear diff oil? For both quantity and the viscosity?
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the oil pressure sender is just like the petrol 4lt type, they either work or don't. rear end clunk most likely damper bushes but the top mounting bolts tend to seize in place. rear axle diff might require the LSD addative normally cheap even from the stealership.
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Thanks guys, was going to replace the rear shocks and hope it's that, as for the oil pressure at first maybe a faulty switch but it does rise up under revs and only drops to nothing at idle. Not checked the diff oil so will have to have a look, just had it a few weeks.
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The back end noise does happen a bit when turning particularly sharp/quick. Even when just reversing out the drive slowly, creaks and clunks it's head off, in fact thinking about it always seems worst when first driving.
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The back end noise does happen a bit when turning particularly sharp/quick. Even when just reversing out the drive slowly, creaks and clunks it's head off, in fact thinking about it always seems worst when first driving.
Hmmm, change the diff oil (with the additive), this would be the cheap fix !!
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Welcome :greggmo:
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the oil pressure sender is just like the petrol 4lt type, they either work or don't. rear end clunk most likely damper bushes but the top mounting bolts tend to seize in place. rear axle diff might require the LSD addative normally cheap even from the stealership.
My first ever Jeep was a 95 vm Cherokee. And mine did exactly what the nice fellows here was doing. New sender sorted it out, just a pig to get to on a 95, under the turbo if I remember correctly. Think they moved them on later models
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The back end noise does happen a bit when turning particularly sharp/quick. Even when just reversing out the drive slowly, creaks and clunks it's head off, in fact thinking about it always seems worst when first driving.
Hmmm, change the diff oil (with the additive), this would be the cheap fix !!
Will it have a lsd?
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The back end noise does happen a bit when turning particularly sharp/quick. Even when just reversing out the drive slowly, creaks and clunks it's head off, in fact thinking about it always seems worst when first driving.
Hmmm, change the diff oil (with the additive), this would be the cheap fix !!
Will it have a lsd?
2000 TD should have LSD. I know mine did, and I'm pretty sure the brochure mentions LSD was standard for the diesel models.
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Hi, welcome
Check and clean the sender plug connection I had same problem low oil pressure, or up then down trying to rise under revs , cleaning the connection cured it!
I agree with previous posts could be bushes, I have ordered these for the rear shocks on my xj as mine are shot..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Lower-Bush-Kit-SuperPro-Polyurethane-/331180173559?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item4d1be068f7
Good luck
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Thanks guys, had a bit of a look today, oil filter covered in oil with a slow drip coming off it so gonna get it up on the ramps tomorrow, give a clean and see if it's loose or if I can see any leak. When saying sender plug is that the oil pressure switch and where will it be located?
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The back end noise does happen a bit when turning particularly sharp/quick. Even when just reversing out the drive slowly, creaks and clunks it's head off, in fact thinking about it always seems worst when first driving.
Does sound like an LSD issue, especially if the noise gets worse on reverse full lock. The previous suggestion of oil and additive change is probably the way to go for the first step.
BTW Welcome to the club
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Yeah Near dizzy,
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It's a diesel, also forgot to say as far as the oil pressure gauge, checked it a few times today, everytime the revs go above about 1200 the gauge starts to rise and warning goes out, soon as it drops below 1200 revs gauge drops down again to zero, like clockwork, exactly the same point every time.
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Still should be near the same position on the engine block ,near oil filter,
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Cheers bud
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as for low oil pressure - change the oil and filter.
use a semi synthetic oil - if some rich sod has shoved fully synthetic in then this can give this issue - PeteS who had mine before me had this issue I believe
if this does not sort it then look at senders - but you need to change it anyway to know it is done, and keep changing it, say 5000 miles intervals
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Had a good look underneath today, cleaned up the filter and housing just to see if I can see where the leak is coming from, found it where the filter housing connects to the block. Couldn't see the sender anywhere near it?
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi620.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt283%2Fsilverfox_hasey%2Foil2.jpg&hash=485ddf5907e8834630237868a125f8f6bf5df880)
So then is there a rubber O ring/seal or a gasket that maybe shot on the housing and is it just a case of that large bolt to remove the housing? Will also change the filter and oil at the same time.
(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi620.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt283%2Fsilverfox_hasey%2Foil1.jpg&hash=7cf4756eb211a1be2c4ea95073d52f81bd10aa25)
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Ok found where the sender switch is but it's near impossible to get at, can barely get my hand in there and only accessible from the top, set right in under the manifold, if I have to change that I'm screwed.
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This is what knackerd bushes look like!
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oh yeah they are shot, you replacing them with poly's
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Yeah, all done the ones in the packet are the new ones.
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Update today, it's now not kicking in the oil gauge till it hits 2000 revs and above, I can only think that whatever the problem is it's getting worse and thinking less likely to be a faulty switch.
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did changing the oil help??
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Not had chance yet, but the leak is coming from where the filter housing fits to the block so need to sort that at the same time, is it a rubber seal or gasket on that and can you get them? Also think the back end noise is mainly coming from the leaf springs, they also look quite flat, gonna give them a good wire brush and have some loctite silver grade anti seize to coat them in, used under trains so good stuff.