Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: hasey on June 07, 2014, 11:56:23 AM
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I know I've mentioned this on my original post but am concerned now things may be getting worse and I don't won't a dead jeep. As said the oil pressure had been dropping to zero and warning light coming on when under about 1200 revs and normal when above that, well it seems it has been getting worse with the oil pressure not rising until higher and higher revs are reached to the point now it's barely not rising at all, I'm also starting to smell a hint of burning oil which makes me think the oil isn't being pumped around and it's starting to burn off what's still in and around the engine, I'm guessing at maybe the oil pump. Question, is there anyway in checking the pump is working and/or is it an easy job to change?
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LOOK!!
You need to replace the sensor, I can understand your unwillingness to replace (it's in the arse of an elbow) But until replaced we are all guessing.
I do have a question for you though, does the engine knock it's nuts off? Like it's about to size knock?
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No mate it doesn't
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Does this poor motor even have the correct oil in it at the moment?
I know we may seem a little short sometimes, but over the years we have seen so many engines ruined, some of them our own, that now we don't stuff about with crystal balls and Ouija boards to find a problem, we aim to go straight for the root cause and work our way up from there, it works out cheaper that way.
For example, in your case you have an engine with an unknown history that has worsening oil pressure symptoms. Maybe the previous owner knew his stuff and offloaded it onto you knowingly or maybe the problem is something simple that has just cropped up. But either way, without knowing what is going on inside that block we can't really help you as well as we would all wish to.
So, for want of a few hours and a couple of quid you are running the risk of trashing a perfectly good engine. Please remember that parts like sensors etc can always be swapped onto a replacement engine if needs be, but the aim is to either fix this one or properly monitor the health of the next.
So if we sound brutal it's because we are trying to help you from resolve the issue in the most logical way, and in this case it's like going to a doctor with a case of the flu and expecting him to diagnose it without a stethoscope! (Please read pressure sensor here).
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LOOK!!
You need to replace the sensor, I can understand your unwillingness to replace (it's in the arse of an elbow) But until replaced we are all guessing.
I do have a question for you though, does the engine knock it's nuts off? Like it's about to size knock?
Not very eloquently put but he is (a wanker) right! :imwitstupid: please change the oil sender before he starts posting pictures of little hurbert ( that's what his lover calls it) again! :icon_eek:
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Ha ha and no worries on the shortness, I'm a veteran and thick skinned, years of abuse in the army, well seasoned. I will ATTEMPT to change the sensor lol new oil, filter. Anyone know where best to get the sensor? also I do have a small leak from the oil filter housing so wanted to sort that at the same time, can't find anywhere online that states if it's a rubber seal or gasket or where I'd get one from, not too worried if it's a gasket, made plenty of them in the past.
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As mentioned by others, fluctuating oil pressure readings MAY be due to the pressure sensor, but it MAY be due to a partially blocked oil filter, the smell of burning/hot oil MAY be due to the oil leak spraying/dripping onto a hot component...manifold/exhaust possibly.
If the wrong oil has been used on the last change, these symptoms MAY show up. Have you stopped when the smell occurs and pulled the dipstick? Any smoke, fumes etc. coming out of the hole? If so, that MAY indicate something more sinister.
Just trying to help a fellow veteran here. :greggmo:
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Try our pals at Lighthouse jeep
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Lighthouse Jeep Parts. The Dairy Farm, Hopton, Diss, Norfolk. IP22 2RD. Phone: 01953 681237
I've always used Lighthouse myself no matter where I've been living.
They have a phone technique all of their own but really know their stuff.
Then again if more convenient there is always these fellas too:
http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/#jeep_chrysler
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ok a very simple check for the oil pump working. run the engine at idle and take the filler cap off. if the oil pump is providing pressure then oil will spray or thrown out of the filler by the rockers.
talk to George at the VM specialist to source a replacement sensor plus he is very knowledgeable.
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No mate it doesn't
Then you have oil pressure !!
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Ok just checked and oil deffo getting pumped around which makes me feel a bit better, gonna get the oil and filter changed asap which brings me to what oil would you recommend, 2000 2.5TD 128k. And thanks a lot guys you lot are brilliant.
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what oil do i put in the engine?
that is open to allot of discussion and no agreement, 10w40 is a base line and would be suitable for the derv. mineral, semi-synthetic, or fully synthetic the choice is yours.
fully synthetic stops engine wear.....to me that is what you want from an engine, no wear. Other people have other ideas
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And make sure its for diesel use as it has different detergents etc in it to keep everything clean and the muck in the filter or in suspension if too fine to be strained out.
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I use a semi synth in 15w40 spec
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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This is what the XJ FSM says about oil for diesels...
ENGINE OIL—DIESEL ENGINES
Use only Diesel Engine Oil meeting standard MIL-
2104C or API Classification SG/CD or CCMC PD2.
SAE VISCOSITY GRADE
CAUTION: Low viscosity oils must have the proper API quality or the CCMC G5 designation. To assure of properly formulated engine oils, it is recommended that SAE Grade 15W-40 engine oils that meet Chrysler material standard MS-6395, be used. European Grade 10W-40 oils are also acceptable. Oils of the SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30 grade number are preferred when minimum temperatures consistently fall below -12°C.
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http://www.millersoils.co.uk/whichoil.asp (http://www.millersoils.co.uk/whichoil.asp) (https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jonrb.com%2Femoticons%2Fgraucho.gif&hash=5221fad89881f257f643895ef7328de05377aa5b)
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do not use fully synthetic in it - it will show signs of low oil pressure........
use semi
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only due to it being of a lighter weight (thinner in viscosity)
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Low viscosity oil will allow big end knocking & brineling of the bearing shells, not something I would want to run the risk of.
I suggest you go with a cheap mineral oil till you know you have sorted your problems out, when all is kosher, just drain out the grubby stuff and replace with semi synthetic.
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Cheers guys guys, so what's the thicker 10/40 or 15/40
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Have you fitted the oil switch/sensor yet?
Get a wiggle on !!!
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Have you fitted the oil switch/sensor yet?
I'm the only gay in the village! Fancy a bum?
That's not nice
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Have you fitted the oil switch/sensor yet?
I'm the only gay in the village! Fancy a bum?
That's not nice
You dirty MOFO'ing FAGGOT, I do hope you bite the pillow very hard this night !!
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Ha ha no mate not yet, been too busy working.
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As explained to me many moons ago. SAE viscocities are based on the number of recorded drips through a standard measured orifice in a set time for that fluid. The two figures are for standard low and high temp recordings.
So the difference between 10w40 and 15w40 is that the latter flows more freely in the low temp portion of the test only.