Birty Dastards Jeep Club

Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: prozac on April 25, 2006, 06:40:02 PM

Title: Rear Diff Pinion Seal
Post by: prozac on April 25, 2006, 06:40:02 PM
From my original list........

Drivebelt cracked Req New £78.92 inc
Front Halfshaft Seal Leaking Req New - £285.93 inc
Rear Diff Pinion Seal Leaking Req New - £58.08 inc
Earth Strap on Battery - £112.96 inc !!!!!!
Slight Leak coming from Rear Main Oil seal req New - £739.64 inc
OSF Heated Seat Inop Req New Cover - £727.78 Inc
 
I've done -
Drivebelt cracked Req New £78.92 inc
Earth Strap on Battery - £112.96 inc !!!!!!

total cost? ---- £30 :D  :D

The seat can wait, probably permanently.
That leaves.....

Front Halfshaft Seal Leaking Req New - £285.93 inc
Rear Diff Pinion Seal Leaking Req New - £58.08 inc
Slight Leak coming from Rear Main Oil seal req New - £739.64 inc


I'll go for the Rear Diff Pinion Seal.

I will state here and now I AM A NUMPTY.

What and where am I looking?

Cheers
Martin
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Post by: chrisjones on April 25, 2006, 08:34:15 PM
On the nose of the diff there is a yoke which holds the UJ for the prop.

This is held on with a BIG nut (36mm I think).  You take off the nut and yoke, pick out the old seal which is behind it and slap a new one in.  It's important to mark the position of the nut, 'cos you need to re-tighten it to the same torque (it sets the preload on the ring and pinion).

I'm sure one of the more techie types will be along soon to give you a better decription of how to do it.

To be honest, I'd do the front axle seal first, cos it's an easier job. :lol:
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Post by: Mike Pavelin on April 26, 2006, 09:23:22 AM
The rear pinion seal is much simpler than the front halfshaft seal....

To do the rear pinion seal, remove the rear propshaft first.
Mark clearly the position of the nut, yoke and the pinion shaft and the yoke to preserve preload later.
Remove the nut, this can be very tight, the max torque for this is over 300 ft/lb.
Remove the yoke, this should come off with a few light taps, but can sieze, if it does, use a puller.
Prise out the seal and replace.
Refit yoke in the same position as it came off.
Refit and tighten the nut until the marks line up. Don't go futrher or the diff will require stripping and rebuilding with a new crush spacer to re establish pinion preload.
Refit prop and check oil level.

The front halfshaft seals are inboard, right next to the front diff carrier bearings, not a simple job.
To replace the front halfshaft seals, both the front hubs and shafts have to come out, plus the front differential has to be removed from the housing. You also have to make up or borrow a special tool to fit the seals.
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Post by: prozac on April 26, 2006, 09:52:59 AM
excellent responses..... I may pay for the front one to be done...I know my limitations :?  :(

Martin
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Post by: chrisjones on April 26, 2006, 11:08:33 AM
See........told you someone who knew what they were talking about would show up. :wink:

Dr Mike to the rescue! :D
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Post by: Bubba on April 26, 2006, 11:11:43 PM
i dont think the fronts are to bad bit of a pain strippin so much to get to em spose i rekon them wanky seals on the yj disconcts are the worst pain
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Post by: prozac on April 27, 2006, 09:42:41 PM
I've had an extremely generous offer form another member on here for assistance (thanks  :wink:  ) but need to know EXACTLY what I would need to order from Lighthouse, oils, seals etc and quantities thereof, before I can start on this lunacy.

Can anyone advise. I intend to do both Front Halfshaft Seal & Rear Diff Pinion Seal.

Cheers

Martin