Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: Dutch on June 23, 2014, 04:05:26 PM
-
Gents,
Drilling stainless steel has left all my drills fubared.
I lack the skill to sharpen them on my grinder. got angles wrong so they still won't bite.
Those cheap and cheerful sharpening tools on the bay any good or are they rubbish?
Or pointers how to sharpen them.
Thanks.
-
I'd like to know too but have always resorted to just buying new ones and using cutting oil to try and keep the edge as long as possible.
-
I'd like to know too but have always resorted to just buying new ones and using cutting oil to try and keep the edge as long as possible.
Yup ..... and then you fubar those as well putting you back where you were :003:
-
back on the net buying more - filling the tool box with half blunt drills :banghead:
-
Drilling stainless.
(From a mate who spent all day every day drilling the stuff)!
1. Plenty pressure
2. Hit the trigger and release. Repeat.
The knack is stop start drilling, that keeps the heat down and stops burning the drill bit out. It's a pain, but works.
-
funny the things you take for granted, one of the first thing we were taught to do as apprentices and something I now do without thinking about it, suppose any jig that holds the bit at the right angle and rotates while adding cutting angle should be fine.
don't dismiss asking you local college if they do and DIY evening class, drill sharpening is easy to learn, just need a steady hand and good eye
Drilling stainless.
(From a mate who spent all day every day drilling the stuff)!
1. Plenty pressure
2. Hit the trigger and release. Repeat.
The knack is stop start drilling, that keeps the heat down and stops burning the drill bit out. It's a pain, but works.
:pop: that would have got me slap around the back of the head if I did that as an apprentice, sharp drill bit, set the speed right for the drill dia, intermittent pressure and plenty of coolant
-
Speed control is the thing for metal drilling, most hand drill and basic pillar drills don't go low enough in my experience. YTs method is probably an ok workaround for not having the right tools.
-
Monster drill press and they last a longtime.......just bought £40 of top end cobalt things in a tin so they all have a place and a label telling the size. So when I break em I know what one to replace :hysterical:
I hate having to use eclectic drill cos as said it won't go slow enough with correct degree of torque
There are drill sharpeners that appear to be the answer.......but bet they're not.....
-
That tip did come out of the
shipyard in Belfast, they where well know for 'work rounds' . Probably why they ain't in business any more. That and the huge amount of bike parts goin thru the chrome shop. :D
One bloke actually got the frame done, and that was triple plate !
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Buy some cobalt drill bits, the bigger the drill bit the slower the speed, pulsing the trigger does work. You just need to take your time. It's boring :hysterical:
-
cobalt drills are the away to go for every thing
-
By hand on a grinder is how i manage, just compare it to a none butchered bit and match the angles. Just don't get it too hot on the grinder.
-
get a copy of this
http://www.engineersblackbook.com/index.php (http://www.engineersblackbook.com/index.php)
relevant pages at attached
-
Now we are getting somewhere. Buying titanium, diamond tipped, cobalt, gold plated was never the answer to the question :003:
-
grinding over center is the classic mistake done all the time which then stops the drill from being used, so regrind and start again. time and patience, once the technique is learned it becomes so easy.
Bruces guide is a good starting point. Stainless is always a drill killer even with lots of coolant
-
Mainly the Leading edge must be higher than trailing edge on both sides or drill bit won't cut,
I used to drill centre holes in leaf springs many years ago and always sharpening dril bits,
That was at atkinsons springs leeds.