Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: thorna on February 09, 2015, 07:22:23 PM
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Lack of use in the last couple of months is hurting my TJ.
On cranking the engine over it catches as usual but immediately dies. Flooring the accelerator on startup does enable it to 'catch ' and run fine.
What's the consensus; cps? Or something more sinister such as immobiliser/ecu ?
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If its firing up then does that discount the cps & lead more towards ecu confused by o2 sensors ?
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Have you had the Battery disconnected or it gone flat, My Tj messes around when battery being disconnected, fires then dies, I have to mess on with the immobiliser arm and disarm until the light goes out as when you connect the battery light is solid lit?
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sounds like its lost its settings. if you have to floor it on startup then that is a potential cause and the engine flooded.
disconnect battery, put on charge and leave half a day. connect battery and see if engine will start. if runs leave to idle and roughness should then smooth out as it "relearns" settings
same thing happened on my XJ
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You just have to teach it to idle....fire it up on a light throttle and then slowly back off the gas until it's about to stall. Give it a little throttle and back off again, keep repeating until the idle air control takes over.
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Use it more often and it'll thank you for it! :greggmo:
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Have you checked the error codes? It really helped me get mine running properly.
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You just have to teach it to idle....fire it up on a light throttle and then slowly back off the gas until it's about to stall. Give it a little throttle and back off again, keep repeating until the idle air control takes over.
This.
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That's typical of a flat battery. PCM/Cluster and radio memory slowly drain the battery. Those current draws are enough to drain the battery over a few weeks. Once charged the battery should be OK. If you're not using it much give the battery a top up charge every few weeks or pull the IOD fuse to prevent memories in PCM/cluster/radio flattening the battery so much.
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Cheers guys for all the help. Hoping it is battery related; the symptoms I'm seeing are the same as when the battery's been at fault previously although this time it quickly learns how to idle but then doesn't restart. I'll spend a bit more time on it and see.
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Think I've got to the source:
Ignition key barrel, once it flicks back after starting it must go too far and kill the ignition.
A careful turn of the key and all works fine.
It's never been the same since auto windscreen yanked the key out against the lock done years ago.
Cheers for all the help.
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sounds like you found the problem ...... new barrel i reckon
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I would have never thought of that :icon_redface:
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Didn't seem like a switch problem at all to me either.
Don't forget that between the cylinder and switch is the ignition switch actuator pin which are known to break on occasion. You should be able to see if that's anything to do with your problem by removing the switch which reveals the end that breaks.
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Hmm ties in with the fact I've been able to take the key out of the ignition without turning the engine off for a while now. Handy as you can leave the car running and lock the doors!
Also it needed a careful turn otherwise the radio and indicators etc don't come on.
Just chuffed it's nothing major as have a blown brake line to sort and heater core still!
Ps: tj owners check your brake pipes especially where the front wheel arch liners cover them; had a very near miss when mine blew the other week.
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Blew the exact same brake line off roading at Bridgenorth couple of years ago. Best to remove the protective eyelid thing from the inner wing because its so inaccessible it never gets seen, even at MOT time.