Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: fuddymucker on December 11, 2015, 09:22:35 AM
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Hello all,
I apologise for my first post being a 'help me' post, but sometimes it takes for something to go wrong to find a great community!
Anyway, went to take my 2004 GC 2.7 CRD out yesterday evening and when I pulled out of my drive all seemed fine (albeit a little sluggish, but it was a cold engine so I wasn't exactly ragging it), put my foot down a little more and instantly noticed clouds of black smoke coming out from the exhaust to the point where the woman behind be backed off by about 30 foot!
Within 30 secs of the drive the car was noticeably sluggish and would billow out smoke as soon as I touched the throttle so I pulled over to inspect. On idle in park the car was normal, but as soon as you touch the throttle it would chuck out clouds of smoke, but was also very slow to rev and had what sounded like diesel knock at higher revs. I turned the car off and tried again, still the same. disconnected the battery for 5 mins, still the same, car wouldn't even pull itself up a slight incline in low range!
I pulled the fault codes off whilst waiting for the AA to arrive and they were as follows:
p1130 fuel rail pressure sensor)
p0243 turbo waste gate
p0190 fuel rail pressure sensor
p1270 swirl pot motor
p1652 chassis pitch output
p1685 skim invalid key
p0702 transmission shifter module
AA man was a little stumped, he said he thought it was an injector that had failed but he couldn't be certain. We tested the waste gate and the arm is moving when revving, even though it takes an age to rev up compared to normal. He towed me back home and now it's sat on my drive feeling sorry for itself but I need to get it fixed ASAP and 1. I can't drive it to a garage really and 2. it's almost Christmas so funds are somewhat limited!!!
Since getting home I've taken the turbo to intercooler pipe off and it's creating decent boost and there's pretty much no oil there, unplugging the MAF makes it worse, whilst unplugging the MAP allows it to rev more freely, but only to about 2k rpm.
Also, injector no 5 was replaced with a brand new item in the last couple of months and all the others were leak down tested at the same time and shown to be ok - not great, but not screwed either. HP pump has also been replaced in the last 6 months.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated! Cheers.
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Ignore the codes for now unless you can delete them, run it up and read them again as most of them will probably be historical rubbish. First thing to do is pull the hoses off the intercooler and make sure there isn't a large quantity of oil in there indicating turbo failure. They will be oily, that's normal, but if there's liquid in there, the turbo's sh*t itself.
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Thanks Mike, I've already taken the turbo to intercooler pipe off and there's the tiniest film of oil and the turbo is creating good levels of boots (ran it up very quickly for one rev to see how much boost there was and a small hurricane came out!)
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Get it hooked up to a proper diagnostic machine and see if the fuel rail pressure sensor is giving a plausible reading.
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split turbo hose
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Which motor was it that suffered the swirl motor problem that can be fixed (I think) by getting the newer design pipe from Mercedes?
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The newer WH 3.0 v6. The hose is for prevention of the problem not to fix it, it seals better and stops oil dripping onto the swirl motor.
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Thanks for the replies guys, here's what I've checked so far as of this morning...
Boost hoses - no leaks, cracks or splits & the tiniest film of oil
Turbo - boosts nicely
Actuator - rod moves when revved
MAF - unplugging makes it worse
MAP - unplugging makes it rev more freely until 2k rpm, removed and was perfectly clean
Things that have been replaced in the last 6 months...
Injector no 5 (brand new)
HP pump (new)
I'm really kinda stumped now, I'm guessing that it's being caused by running very rich (hence the clouds of black smoke and hesitancy to rev) so it can't be the fuel filter or anything, it must be caused by whatever regulates the amount of fuel flow... So would that be the fuel pressure regulator sensor and MAP sensor? I really want to get it fixed ASAP but I can't drive it anywhere to have it scanned etc because... well it won't drive!
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EGR valve could possibly be stuck open, may be no harm to remove it, inspect and give it a good clean, there is some posts out there on how to blank them off but you need to fool the ecu into thinking its still working
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EGR valve could possibly be stuck open, may be no harm to remove it, inspect and give it a good clean, there is some posts out there on how to blank them off but you need to fool the ecu into thinking its still working
Give that man a biscuit! Just took the EGR valve off and it was sticking and coked up, free'd it off and now she runs like a dream! Going to take her out for a spin to make sure everything's ok now so fingers crossed!
Cheers guys.