Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: thorna on January 08, 2007, 01:15:54 PM
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OK Guys; I know a few of you have done it so what do I need:
I'm treading the water as I want to fill those arches with some new rubber? :lol:
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4.88 is my recommendation.
Try http://http://www.jeepclub.co.uk/gears.cfm for calculating different options.
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4:88's and Mik are my recommendations.
(Mik is a genius re-gear-god)
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:oops: :oops:
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Thorna i am also interested in doing this a lot later on in the year if i can collect the bits....
So far on the wish/dream list i have included
A detroit truetrac for the front to go in the same time as the regear.
A locker of some sort for the rear to go in with the regear.
A spare tyre carrier
Extended flares
maybe a rear disc brake conversion.
Oh and lots of brain picking along the way...
Hopefully if this list is way out someone will shout up..
It will be good to see how you get on..
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I've run my 2.5 on 33s and the stock 4.10s for the last 2 years with no problems. It's a bit gutless on hills and in headwinds, and you don't use 5th as often as you would like but it's still quite happy as a daily driver.
Offroad you will barely notice any difference between a stock 2.5 setup and a 4.0 with 33s and 4.56s. You get stuck in the same place..........
But it's not an ideal setup, and if you can afford it go 4.88s. 
Oh, and Dodster
Your list is pretty much spot on so far! Truetracs front and rear works very well, but a rear disc conversion is borderline. If you do it, go for one that has the parking brake operating on the rear pads and not one with shoes inside the disc. They don't work after playing in mud and you still won't be able to stop! Trust me...........(nuff said!).
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2.5 on 33" for best results r&p 4.88
peter henry
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2.5L should be 4.88 for true 33's I am told
4.0L should be 4.56 for true 33's I am told
Be warned though your tyre choice plays a big part as not all 33's actualy measure 33" If for example you choose a 33 BFG then it will actually measure 31.85". The same is true for Pro-comp etc. I mention this because a couple of inches makes a big difference to your top gear on road. 4.88 with undersize 33's on a 2.5L may feel overgeared on the motorway (High RPM and not enough wzz) and if you dont plan to go larger tyres then 4.56 may be a good compromise between road running and offroad work. Everybody has different ideas and experiances.
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I'll be stepping up to 34"s and 4.88's soon, anyone local good with gears??
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naa sod regear just go chevy vortec v8 and use the popper as door stop he he he he he :roll:
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i run 4.88,s tis cool.
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I know I've got a 4.0l not a 2.5, but just for the record I have 4:10's and nearly 'true' 33's. You can use fifth gear in a 30 without speeding!
(Well I think so anyway as my speedo is million miles out, but I've got a cog to fit yet)
The shopping list from 4WD went something along the lines of:
Front and rear axle rebuild kits
Front and Rear 4:10 R+P
Front and Rear Truetracs 3.73-5.38 ratios
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Cheers for all the replies guys!!!
Thats the info I needed; nice to see the shopping list won't HAVE to extend past 4.88 R&P's!!
So you all reckon thats the way to go;
I want new tyres soon anyway so why buy another set of 31's when I have the lift to take bigger!
33x12.5 or 33x10.5?
I reckon 15x8 rims, as it will never go bigger s 10 wide rims won't be needed? Correct?
Using the 4 popper as a doorstep or even cofee a la Top Gear could be good- I'll wait till it breaks!
Tragic, Interested to hear you run on std. gearing. I may try this, at least it means its not so crucial to time new gearing & wheel/tyres together!
Mik; I will be in touch!
Not going for lockers etc as it doesn't yet see enough mud :(
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10.5 or 12.5 - depends if you are going for looks or functionality.
For looks and rock crawling - 12.5s are cool, but for traction in mud 10.5 is arguably better - that's what most of the challenge lads seem to run. Plus you'll have less rubber to cover (wheel arch extensions, etc), they'll be a little cheaper and you'll retain more steering lock.
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Oh yeah - and better fuel economy, too - if thats of interest!??
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If you don't go for lockers when you re-gear you will need to buy new carriers for the lower gears.
10.5 vs. 12.5?? I'd agree with what's been said so far, plus I think sometimes 33x12.5 looks a bit out of proportion, 35x12.5 seems more visually 'right' but that's just one of my odd views on the world!!!
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in the next couple of month tj axels 4.56 ring&pinion trutracks fitted mack 5 wheels bfg MT's 35x12.50 for sale
see picture below
(http://http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g240/mclegg4x4/myjeeppictures003.jpg)
offers over £1500
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Oh yeah - and better fuel economy, too - if thats of interest!??
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If you don't go for lockers when you re-gear you will need to buy new carriers for the lower gears.
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Defo no new lockers: so Would I need new carriers?
Just reading some blurb on Qtec site:
"When replacing 3.55 and numerically lower ratio gear set with a 3.73 or higher gear, the case must be changed to a 3.73 or higher case."
I would think I already have the higher case as I have the 2.5ltr stock R&P gearing 4.1's?
Just checking so I know all thats required up-front!!
Think on the tyre side its got to be 33x12.5!
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I would think I already have the higher case as I have the 2.5ltr stock R&P gearing 4.1's?
Correct
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Doh!! Sorry for confusion.