Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: mcbungie on March 12, 2007, 10:48:08 PM
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hi there im looking to raise my 95 cherokee 4.0l. the leafs are knackered and I fancy a full lift kit. found this one on ebay .......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 702&rd=1,1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230103000702&rd=1,1)
would appreciate any comments on it or feedback bout buying from the good old U S and A. cheers
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looks good dude does it mention anything about needing a slip yoke thingy
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dont look bad mate. also consider the rustys one that tim has fitted. works well to say the least.
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Sadly that ebay vendor won't ship outside the States.
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The slip yoke eliminator and cv driveshaft (which are NOT necessary) are available for only $550).
as listed in the add
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The slip yoke eliminator and cv driveshaft (which are NOT necessary) are available for only $550).
as listed in the add
With the 1" T/C drop, you theoretically don't need an SYE, but if you've got the extra money, I'd say do it. Pig of a job to fit though.
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even though i'm fitting a 3.5" lift i'm trying to avoid the SYE at the moment, if i get round to some serious off roading then it will be an option in need of serious thinking
On a slightly different note what rear diff angle shims are advisable for a 3.5" lift
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Shipping of lift kits add quite a bit to the cost so don't be too shocked by the extra cost.
The Slip-yoke eliminator on that page is for a 231 transfer case as fitted to diesels, 2.5 petrols and Wranglers. Our 4.0l have a 242 case and it needs a different SYE. A transfer case drop should work well enough that you can decide on a SYE later.
Rough Country and Rustys kits are both good value though and it looks quite complete.
Dave: Shims for 3.5" lift - probably 3 degrees, tilting pinion down (fat end forward) with no SYE, other way round if you have SYE. Tuning out vibrations can be a test, modify, test, repeat process though. Different springs, shackle length etc all play a part.
I found vibrations more of an issue on the road than offroad.
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thanks for that.
i was going to get a lift kit from the states with the good exchange rate but the shipping cost due to weight brought the final price not far off the uk price. so didn't bother. if you can source the heavier stuff in the uk then it might be worth while
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thanks for all the replies guys. unfortunetly I dont under stasnd yoke thingys and such . to be honest I dont do a lot of off roading but like I said my leafs are shot so id like to fit a lift......
tim_aka_tim is it the 4 and a half rustys kit you have?
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its kin good is what it is and very flexy puts a few other kits to shame
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is it the 4 and a half rustys kit you have?
Yep. Bargain basement price and flexes like a bitch though it does have more expensive adjustable lower control arms which allow the axle to move more. I'm sure you will have seen some of the ridiculous photos in the album and my avatar. The ground clearance is just stupid - I've never got caught up on the belly - ever!
Few warnings though. Vibes are very likely. It's very high. I filthy my trousers on the sill each time I get in it.
Many moan about Rustys, but my experience was a good one. YMMV. Remember that everyone reports a bad experience, but never a good one.
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the basic over view, it gets a bit more detailed at the prop/transfer case bit
the xj has a sliding coupling on the porp where it connects to the transfer box. this allows the axle to stretch and shrink when the rear axle compresses or extends when driven over obstacles.
when the xj is lifted the rear axle drops and the prop shaft extends, this then reduces the amount of extension the prop now has. what a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) does is increase the surface area on the end of the prop so the prop can now extend further without "falling out". The normal way is to fit a spline extension to the output shaft of the transfer case (prop side) and is fixed by drilling and tapping the shaft and bolting on the splined extension, no actual side loads are there it is just to stop the prop shaft comming apart.
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mm starting too have second thoughts now. like I said she spends most of her time ON the road perhaps a 3" kit might be more suitable for me
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You don't need an SYE for a 3.5" lift. You may get away with nothing at all, but the most you should need is a T-case drop kit, which are (relatively) easy to fit and can be made to save some money. They tend to just be spacers made from a couple of lengths of box section with some holes drilled in them and some longer bolts
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anyone know what kind of cash for postage for a lift kit from the states , and will I get stung for vat from customs? cheers
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i did have the information but not anymore. rough ball park figure for a full lift kit from the states can be around the £300 all in with uk customs fee, then the cost of the kit on top. may sound alot but your paying for the weight and size of the springs.
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Mine was around £800 all in. That's a 4.5" kit (2 springpacks, 2 coils, 4 shocks, t/c drop kit and associated hardware) plus adjustable lower control arms, 2 steering stabilisers, steering box brace, adjustable trackbar and quicker discos. 142 kilos on a pallet. As I recall, shipping came to $500.
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price up state side and then convert it with the exchange rate. have a ring round some suppliers in the uk and see what the difference is. if not alot it might be worth buying in the uk but the choice is yours.
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yip will do thanks
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right change of plan (again)
thinkin of a set of diesel springs from lighthouse and a cheapo lift from the states . but whats better add a leafs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-XJ- ... QQtcZphoto (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-XJ-Comanche-MJ-84-01-3-Front-2-Rear-Lift-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33585QQitemZ130041121496QQtcZphoto)
or block lift
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-XJ- ... QQtcZphoto (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-XJ-Cher-2-Front-Rear-block-Lift-Kit-special-order_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33585QQitemZ130041121466QQtcZphoto)
I know none of them are great but I dont do offroad much and just want the extra height
cheers
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got some diesel springs from lighthouse for mine and a 3.5" RE add'a'leaf kite from FTE. Not the best but proved reasonable from the UK. might got some parabolic springs made up at a later date..... quite a bit later at the moment
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I would go for shackles, add-a-leaf and blocks in that order. You could also add the main leaf from your old springs (cut eyes off) to get a bit more lift as a freebie.
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Have a think though about how easy it's going to be to fit. Lifts need longer shocks really, so you don't damage them. Also, your sway bar might well need adjusting, so you might need extended links, or a sway bar drop kit (and it's not that easy, 'cus the sway bar links are very likely to break rather than unscrew).
The lift shackes don't need to be too long, cus diesel springs sit 1" higher anyway.
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ok what about this then
Procomp
1984-01 Cherokee [XJ] - Stage I kit
Front coil springs, rear leaf springs with fitted bushes and degree shims. Rear U-bolts, ES9000 shock absorbers & boots
Lift F/R = 2.5"/3.0"
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Yeah, I was looking at that one on the explorer procomp site last night. As I recall, Birty's get a 10% discount too.
Given that you need new leaf springs regardless, and they'll cost over £200 from either Mansfield 4x4 or Lighthouse (cus you will need fittings too), you'll also need shocks (really), you might as well go for the kit.
A 10% discount will offset some of the delivery.
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10% off eh?
how do I claim that?
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10% off eh?
how do I claim that? 
http://http://www.birtydastardsjeepclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3849 Just say you're a dastard.
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Procomp
1984-01 Cherokee [XJ] - Stage I kit
ORDERED should be here thursday. thanks for all the help and advice
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enjoy fitting it yourself (if that's what your doing)
soak the bolts with a release agent your going to need it. one set of leaf springs don and bolts all out the other side the fixed nut has come loose (front spring fixing) so a hole might need to be drilled.
cleaning up the wheel arches and repainting with chassis enamel then underseal and waxoil etc.. some nice rust traps round those wheel arches
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just arived this morning . looks the crack. like u say now the fun begins tryin to fit it. :?
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I tell you what would be awesome, if you could possibly take a few photos of what you did as you're doing it. Fitting an XJ lift is pretty much of a muchness, so that would help others loads!!!
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ill see what I can do
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i started on the rear as it seemed the simplest place to start but yet the worst for siezed bolts, at least then it will make the front seem easy, just the psycological approach
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cheers for that.... hopefully start it on saturday . start with the rear. been soaking the bolts for over a week now. 4 tins of wd40, so hopefully itll help
:?
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dont want to sound a bit of a kill joy but you might bet lucky using only wd40. i have spent 3 weeks soaking bolts with penetrating fluid rahter than thin oil, even then the bolts were a barsteward to get undone.
good luck
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Fecking nightmare .everything that could go wrong went wrong. the rear is done at last took 2 days but now ive noticed there is play on the top of the rear shockers.. any ideas??
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Can you be more specific, mate?
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ok here goes now im no mechanic so bear with me.. theres a fork ended bar that goes through the bush on the top of the rear shock. I greased this part and pushed it through the bush then installed the shock. when driving home I could here a knockin noise when going over bumps. looking underneath when I grab the shocker I can move it very slightly its as if the shock is sliding back and forward on the fork ended bar. cheers
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Right, thats the bar pin. Did they supply new ones? They should be a nice snug fit in the bushes with no play. You should have had a bitch of a time getting them in there too.
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yes they sent new ones . I put grease on them (not sure if I should have) being honest they wernt easy to fit but they wernt too hard.
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Perhaps it's not that. Mine clonked over bumps for a while. It was the bottom bolt on the rear shackle hitting the frame. As the springs flex, they cause the shackle to rotate upwards to the rear.
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cant help on the knocking, but if you want to get the bar pins into the poly bush easily, place the bush in boiled water to soften then up.
It works a treat
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if the bush is tight on the bar pin that is not the knocking. is the movenent you have side to side or up and down??? best bet is to undo the bottom of the shock and try shake it up and down, if there is no up and down play start lookin elsewhere mate.
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the movement is side to side
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Are ye share?
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aye baldieeeeeeeeee
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I had to press the bar-pins into my shocks with a small workshop press, they should be a tight fit.
When I fitted bar-pin eliminators however I did need to put washers either side of the bush to ensure a tight fit and stop side to side movement. Can you squeeze some washers in there as spacers maybe?
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possibly i`ll give it a try cheers. are the front bar pins the same size as the back bar pins?