Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: SnakeXJ on January 03, 2008, 05:13:46 PM
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hi what size are the bolts on the x-fer case end of an XJ's front prop?
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the small bolts that hold the ujay on are 3/8 AF or an 8mm will fit give them a spray with release oil before you start
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use a small 6 point socket :roll:
the are a right bastard to get at :banghead:
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the small bolts that hold the ujay on are 3/8 AF or an 8mm will fit give them a spray with release oil before you start
10mm, not 8mm is the closest to 3/8. 8mm is the closet to 5/16.
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dont use a multi hex socket, the bolt head will be crudded up and you will end up rounding the bolt head and causing more hassle than needed. use a single hex socket it makes life alot easier even if you have to wait for the motor factors to deliver it
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8mm is right, if you're lucky a long 8mm socket may get on it.
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8mm is right, if you're lucky a long 8mm socket may not round it off.
Fixed that for you
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Beg, borrow, steal, hell go mad and buy a 5/16 ring spanner and/or a socket if you can get in with one
You wouldnt believe the number of Jeeps Ive had in the shop whose propshaft has come adrift and knocked ten bells from the underside before falling onto the motorway to cause serious problems for someone else.
Please use the correct tools, method, locktite, sense etc.
The first time I find a prop on the road whilst riding my bike will probably be the last.
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yep tryed the 8mm
mmmm NO :)
typical that 5/16 is one size i dont have :?
cheers..
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the big nut is 28mm in case you need to know
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Beg, borrow, steal, hell go mad and buy a 5/16 ring spanner and/or a socket if you can get in with one
You wouldnt believe the number of Jeeps Ive had in the shop whose propshaft has come adrift and knocked ten bells from the underside before falling onto the motorway to cause serious problems for someone else.
Please use the correct tools, method, locktite, sense etc.
i was testing a LDV van on a dyno for porp inbalance test. the prop let go at 6000rpm. punctured 2 rear tyres punched a hole on the floor and chequer plate reinforcement, cause the front timing belt to jump off (transit duratorque engine), driver was white with shock and then told us of the LPG tank fitted right nest to the prop and with only a bit of heat shielding in between. very lucky that day to say the least
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i was testing a LDV van on a dyno for porp inbalance test. the prop let go at 6000rpm. punctured 2 rear tyres punched a hole on the floor and chequer plate reinforcement, cause the front timing belt to jump off (transit duratorque engine), driver was white with shock and then told us of the LPG tank fitted right nest to the prop and with only a bit of heat shielding in between. very lucky that day to say the least
:!:
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sorry if it has made you uncomfortable but it is nothing realy to worry about, the props on cherokees are very strong for a std build but the need to use a the correct tools for the job is the best option, rather than making do which is not always the best idea. what i was doing with this van was intentionally making the prop imbalanced just to measure what levels of vibration can be found on an imbalanced/damaged prop running at various speed.
This work was requested due to a van that did lose a prop on the M5 past bristol and they wanted it investigated as to how far of an imbalance was acceptable. That particular one destroyed it's gearbox. and all the floor under the driver.
when you use the wrong tools you end up damaging the bolt and then other ways of removing said bolt can result in damaging the prop which at that point you dont know what effect it will have. most of the time you will have no issues what so ever but there is always that one time where it will. hence the correct tool statement