Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: MOCAJ on February 08, 2008, 04:03:23 PM
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97 TJ has failed MOT on steel brake lines, my tester has failed all but one for corrosion :wink:
can i route the lines through the top of the engine bay instead of sending them down the chassis, accross the front behind the bumper and then up the chassis leg on the other side :?:
that will keep more of them out of the mud/water and general crud i reckon
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i have a flaring tool if you need it. very simple to use. not a bad job to do yourself but can be frustrating getting the pipework round the tight bits. getting the connections apart might be easy or nigh on impossible
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I'd be wary of routing brake lines behind the bumper, cus if you have a fender bender and smash up the front, you might lose your brakes.
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the stock ones sit behind the bumper on top of the chassis behind the gay plastic cover.
i want to move them to the engine bay and shorten the lines
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i hate to say it the pipes are laid out where they are for a reason. the steel ones rot but if you buy the cupronickle (copper nickle) pipe then you wont suffer corrosion at the same rate as steel.
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Check the Jeep dealer for a set, you might find the price comes out good.
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do your steel lines have the spring wrap armour
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yep
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Check the Jeep dealer for a set, you might find the price comes out good.
just have and they dont stock them anymore for a 97, but they will supply me with a 25 foot roll of tube and some fittings
much cheaper at lighthouse
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so he could only see half an inch of brake line at the union end hardly a fair use of the term inspection
i am of the mind to say that unless your jeep was parked in the sea most weekends and they are truly shot to shit
he was not able to carry out a correct and propper inspection on them and thus not able to give a fail ticket
as an aside my scrambler on a 82plate is still running all of its original steel lines
so i feel you need to start using another staition
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thats what gregg said too :shock:
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he is a fat retard but i know what i am talking about
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the other option is to get under it and clean they with a scotch bright pad, this gets the crud off and if there is pitting on the tube they stand a chance of needing to be changed. the other option is to clean the joints and seal over the top with some vaseline, keeps the joint clean etc