Post by: demonicwillow on February 24, 2008, 11:14:15 PM
I want to change my transfer box from a np231 to a 242 so i have full time 4x4 for road use, anyone know of any problems why it cant be done.
Thanks Dmw
Post by: Bishops Finger on February 24, 2008, 11:28:01 PM
Post by: Dave69 on February 25, 2008, 05:27:02 PM
Post by: demonicwillow on February 26, 2008, 04:26:59 PM
Anyone know if im being ripped off or is that ok money.
Dmw
Post by: tag on February 26, 2008, 05:04:16 PM
Post by: Mike Pavelin on February 26, 2008, 05:04:50 PM
Post by: demonicwillow on February 26, 2008, 05:21:51 PM
Dmw
Post by: barttheguinnessguy on February 28, 2008, 01:51:38 PM
This is how we upgraded my “command Trac” part time 4WD to “Selec Trac” full time 4WD in my Series 1 Jeep XJ. The donor vehicle was a 1994 4.0 Limited, and mine is a 1996 2.5 TD Limited.
I believe that its possible to do this upgrade in both Series 2 XJ’s and Grand Cherokees as well, but the process may differ slightly.
Background.
The Diesel Jeep Cherokee for the UK market, is usualy fitted with the NP231 Transfer Case, which only has "Part Time" 4x4 modes. The reasoning behind this is that it is a stronger Transfer Case, and more able to handle the higher low end torque of the TD engine.
The drawback is that the truck can sometimes fell a little "ungainly" on the road, especialy in the wet, given the high centre of gravity and the fact that you only have rear wheel drive.
My reason for wanting the upgrade was purely for improving the trucks "on road" manners. I feel that the benefits of this far outweigh the slightly weaker strength of the 242 compared to the 231 in off road sittuations.
It's worth noting that in the USA, it is common for XJ owners to replace the 242 T/C with the stronger 231 or simmilar to improve the rock crawling abbility of their trucks.
Parts List
1 x NP242 Transfer case.
The slip yoke from the donor vehicles rear prop.
1.4 litres Dextron II ATF Fluid
3.3 litres 75w90 GL5 Gear oil
The surround and “Position indicator plate” from around the Transfer case selector lever from the donor vehicle.
A new rear output seal for the new transfer case
The “part time” lamp connector, and as much of the cable as you can get from the loom of the donor vehicle.
1. First, drain the fluid from both the gearbox and transfer case.
2. Disconnect the front prop shaft. We did this at the front diff, as the case we were using already had the prop fitted.
3. Disconnect the rear prop from the rear diff, and pull the slip yoke out of the rear of the transfer case. Have a rag ready to catch any ATF fluid that may leak from the rear of the T/C.
4. Disconnect the two plug connectors (one for the spedo and one for the “Part time” light). Also disconnect the T/C breather from the top of the T/C.
5. Support the gearbox on a trolley jack, and raise it just enough to take the weight off the gearbox mounting.
(http://http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r276/barttheguinnessguy/trans%20case/P1010017.jpg)
6. Remove the four bolts attaching the bottom of the gearbox to the gearbox mount.
7. Remove the four bolts holding the gearbox cross member from the chassis frame rails, and remove the cross member from the vehicle. NOTE, of you have a T/C skid, you will need to remove this before removing the cross member.
8. Lower the gearbox gently on the jack, allowing you to access the bolts on the top of the T/C. Be careful not to lower too far, for fear of damaging engine mounts or linkages under the hood.
9. Disconnect the linkage to the control lever. This just pops out of the plastic bush with the help of a small crow bar.
10. Remove the 6 bolts holding the T/C to the gearbox.
11. gently pull the T/C backwards off the output shaft of the gearbox, and remove from the vehicle (It’s a good idea to have someone help you with this bit)
(http://http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r276/barttheguinnessguy/trans%20case/P1010018.jpg)
12. Fit the new output seal to the new T/C
(http://http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r276/barttheguinnessguy/trans%20case/P1010015.jpg)
13. Remove the slip yoke from the rear prop, and replace it with the slip yoke from the donor vehicle. We used a vice to push the joints open on the original prop, but had to remove the S/Y from the donor prop with a little help from an angle grinder.
14. Cut the plug off the “Part Time” lamp connector (it’s the one with only 2 wires) and use the one that you removed from the donor to extend the cable by about 5 inches. If you stagger the joints in the wires, and use a small crimp connector, it is possible to cover the joint with a length of corrugated sheathing (heliflex) that you saved from the donor car.
15. With the help of a friend, lift the new T/C into place, making sure it slides smoothly onto the gearbox output shaft, and make sure that the bolt holes line up.
16. Now, the rest of the installation is pretty much the reverse of the removal procedure.
(http://http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r276/barttheguinnessguy/trans%20case/P1010022.jpg)
17. Fill the T/C with new ATF. When mine had exactly the right amount in, it just started to dribble from the filler hole.
18. Fill the gearbox with fresh gear oil. You may find that a 5 foot length of clean hosepipe with a funnel attached is useful here.
19. Inside the car, remove the trim from around the 4x4 selection lever.
20. Using a Dremmel with a cut off wheel, or a sharp hack saw blade, remove the little lug on the metal gate that the lever comes through (if you don’t do this, full time 4x4 is right on top of the lug) and file smooth.
Before
(http://http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r276/barttheguinnessguy/trans%20case/P1010026.jpg)
After
(http://http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r276/barttheguinnessguy/trans%20case/P1010028.jpg)
21. Replace the trim with the one from the donor.
22. Make sure that you can get all the positions on the new T/C, and that the “Part Time” light on the dash functions correctly.
23. Road test, then check for leaks, loose bolts etc.
24. Smile the next time you power round an island in full time 4x4 in the rain
If it helps, I have a spare 242 transfer case, rear prop and an ally wheel for sale for a lot less than you have been quoted
Post by: demonicwillow on February 29, 2008, 09:34:06 PM
Post by: Bubba on February 29, 2008, 10:06:05 PM
Post by: barttheguinnessguy on February 29, 2008, 11:55:09 PM
Quote from: "demonicwillow"
the only thing i didnt ask for was the wiring, but can I extend whats on my jeep?
Sure, but it means cutting the plug off, and splicing in a length of wire. If you can get the plug and a long bit of wire off the donor, it means just making one spice instead of 2
Quote from: "demonicwillow"
As the rear prop is smaller in length can i just change the whole prop for the one im buying?
Your original prop will be too long, and will keep slamming into the transfer case until it breaks. The donor prop will be too short, and will just plain fall out of the tranny case when you articulate, dumping your ATF fluid out of the TC too. By using the slip yoke from the donor on your original prop, it makes the length perfect.
Just for the record, expect to pay £100 for a transfer box, £25 for a prop, and a tenner for a lattice alloy. Anything more is far too much.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
Post by: Bubba on March 01, 2008, 10:29:18 AM
Post by: barttheguinnessguy on March 01, 2008, 09:04:17 PM
Post by: demonicwillow on March 12, 2008, 10:34:28 PM
Apart from a main stealer where is the place to get said slip yoke seal and is the gearbox oil fully or semi synthetic.
Post by: barttheguinnessguy on March 13, 2008, 01:20:57 AM
Post by: birty on March 13, 2008, 01:31:03 AM
Quote from: "barttheguinnessguy"
Tried to PM you, but cant for some reason :roll:
Try now.
Post by: demonicwillow on March 13, 2008, 07:47:11 PM
Quote from: "barttheguinnessguy"
I have a selector surround and the wiring that you need. Tried to PM you, but cant for some reason :roll:
Wow, Great, Thanks, I dont even know how to "pm" lol
If you cant pm then use ma email