Birty Dastards Jeep Club

Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: bill99 on June 11, 2008, 03:30:36 PM

Title: Radiator oil line removal on XJ
Post by: bill99 on June 11, 2008, 03:30:36 PM: Hi all, I have a 99 Jeep Cherokee 4 litre auto and I need to swap out the radiator or have mine fixed.

The problem is the lower auto fluid oil line going into the rad, it needs a special tool to disconnect it, in the book it is called a ( 3/8th Quick Connect Release tool- 6935 ) but the dealers around here say it would have to go on back order at £14.50 but no time scale.

So does anyone know a way round this, is there a way to get these oil lines off or does anyone know a generic supplier for these quick connect tools in the UK

Also any recommendations for a good supplier for a replacement radiator I see some on ebay but it looks a bit of a lottery to get the correct one. I’m in Scotland by the way if anyone around here has a good used one for sale

cheers

bill99
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Post by: garyf on June 11, 2008, 06:19:54 PM: you need oil, fuel and air con line quick connectors

try these

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Air-Condit ... ley-VS0454 (http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Air-Conditioning-Spring-Lock-Coupling-Tool-Sealey-VS0454)

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Air-Condit ... aley-VS045 (http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Air-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnection-Tool-Set-2pc-Sealey-VS045)

Both types should work, you may find the second set easier though
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Post by: bill99 on June 11, 2008, 11:32:18 PM: Thanks for that, I have been getting shoulder shrugs from all the auto stores and jeep dealers.

Have you or anyone here used these type of tools? I think the second link looks good but I dont think there is much room down in there, do these have to spin 360- degrees or just push in and twist?

If they need 360 degrees then the first link looks better.

thanks

bill
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Post by: garyf on June 11, 2008, 11:50:47 PM: I have used both sets you would probably be better with the steel swivel ones, all you do is put the coupling over the steel pipe, push the tool towards the pipe end, this inturn unlocks the barbs in the pipe end and the then the pipe will just pull off, very simple really. I tried with several items to get them off to save me having to buy the tool but on the end I just gave up and bought them.

Pity you weren't a bit closer as you would be more than welcome to come and borrow mine
Title: Oil lines/Rad
Post by: longman on June 12, 2008, 07:21:55 PM: On my 4lt Wrangler, my oil lines to the rad. bottom, from the auto box were held on with jubilee clips. I am having my rad. recored at a company called Serc International ( dont no how far up-tut-north they go).
I'ts costing me £140.00 inc. with 1 years warranty.
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Post by: bill99 on June 12, 2008, 10:31:49 PM: Yeah I got a quote for a re-core using my old side tanks for £180 inc vat, but I see a few online brand new for £149 delivered.

One was “Aaron radiators” in London and another from “UK Car Cooling”; both look like the same aftermarket radiator. Anyone have good or bad experience with these guys?

One thing I have noticed when looking for a rad is that most company’s refer me to a rad with the oil cooler on the passenger side and they all say oh yes they are all the same from 1990 on, well bollocks to that mine is part number 5202 8537 and has the oil cooler on the drivers side. So would I be right in assuming the ones with the passenger side oil cooler are left hand drive models, or did they just change sides at some point in production? (Jeep Cherokee 99 Orvis 4lt auto)

Just for information, my local car auto store wants £295 for a Valero original oem replacement

bill
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Post by: Mike Pavelin on June 12, 2008, 10:54:32 PM: Right hand drive rads have the cooler pipes on the right hand side, left hand drive ones have them on the left.
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Post by: longman on June 13, 2008, 07:52:38 PM: My chambers run top and bottom with auto oil cooler in the bottom, ha ho !!
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Post by: bill99 on June 15, 2008, 12:51:34 AM: Well I got both sets of those tools from Just-off-base, and super quick but I’m no further forward. The metal ones seem the only ones that can actually work in my case but they wont move the connector.

Just in-case I cant see the wood for the trees here I thought I would run this past anyone who has used these just to see that I’m doing it right.

So the metal ones clip on to the pipe stub like a pair of wire stripers and slide into the back of the connector and I suppose the round shoulders push back the 4 little metal barbs to spring it open.

Well it slides in ok and I can only assume the barbs are pushed back but it’s still stuck fast. I got so fucking pissed off at it that I cut the rubber hose and just pulled the bloody radiator out off the jeep and tried it in ideal conditions with the radiator upright and soaked the connector with WD40. Anyway the tool inserts fine but even with the persuasion of a hammer and twist around it will not move it.

Can anyone help? Do these things just seize over time, I assume it’s never been off before.

bill
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Post by: Dave69 on June 15, 2008, 09:21:56 PM: when i swapped my rad i spent too long trying to get the pipe off, i just cut the pipe like yourself and still couldn't get the pipe off. i then fitted a new rad and joined the cooler pipe with a connector and some hose clips, hasn't let me down yet and that's over 2 yrs ago
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Post by: bill99 on June 16, 2008, 12:00:55 AM: Thanks Dave, and everyone, I had a long hard go at the pipe connecter today with the metal release tool and modified the plastic tool to fit, but none would move it, I then made a little tool of my own to force back the barbs and it still will not move, so I have to accept it’s seized onto the pipe.

I will be doing the same with a joint piece and a bit of hose, it was just so frustrating having purchased the tools and then having to butcher things, oh well you live and learn.

bill