Birty Dastards Jeep Club

Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: BlazerPaul on August 12, 2008, 12:38:48 AM

Title: Ball joints
Post by: BlazerPaul on August 12, 2008, 12:38:48 AM: Hi everyone,
I'm new on here.
On my third Jeep now. Now have a 1998 Grand Cherokee 4.0L
I've started stripping the left hand hub etc to replace the ball joints and CV boot. Everything going fine until it came to removing the lower ball joint. Have warmed the housing and it has moved a few tho' but now seems solid. Any tips on how to remove this or any tools I may need. I have facilities to make basic tools if nescessary.
Also the replacement lower joint has a loose, split collar, threaded externally that fits over the taper. And a circlip to retain the ball joint in its housing. The existing one doesn't. Is the collar for an alternative application or is it the wrong joint?
Any help much appreciated.

Thanks
Paul
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Post by: Bubba on August 12, 2008, 12:52:56 AM: the collar is for jeep cjs not sure of the preferd method for your model but i use a presse
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Post by: Bubba on August 12, 2008, 12:56:09 AM: and welcome mate
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Post by: JamesH on August 12, 2008, 10:57:58 AM: I did mine about two weeks ago and can confirm you don't need the threaded collar and clip. I used a small press with hydraulic ram and my lowers required close to all the force it could produce, which is 8 tonnes if the sticker is correct.
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Post by: MOCAJ on August 12, 2008, 07:09:24 PM: but i used a 4 foot tube on my breaker bar

they are FFFFFFF tight
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Post by: BlazerPaul on August 12, 2008, 08:01:51 PM: Hi,
Thanks for the quick replies.
Managed to get the old joint out :-x .
Tried the old one back & that seems a bit slack now.
Must have stretched the hole due to the rusted top edge. Anyone any ideas apart from another axle?
Thought it was going too well!!!

Cheers
Paul
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Post by: Bubba on August 12, 2008, 10:42:31 PM: youre fecked

unless you weld and grind back
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Post by: BlazerPaul on August 13, 2008, 12:00:03 AM: Hi,
Have measured old & new ball joints tonight, both same, measured hole & that is very very slightly over. Have also crack tested arm & all is ok. The outer of the original ball joint is scaly so corrosion has probably set in explaining the over size hole.
Got a plan for tomorrow. I'll update if it works. If not I'll shoot me self!!!

Paul
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Post by: BlazerPaul on August 14, 2008, 12:10:16 AM: Hi again,
Got more issues with the axle now, any one got a complete axle or just the main body for sale so I can swap my parts over.
Do any other models other than Grand Cherokee have same axle?

Paul
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Post by: mrzj on August 14, 2008, 09:07:30 AM: Maybe, and don’t blame me if it all goes horribly wrong but..

If I was in your situation I would clean up around the hole with the grinder then put the joint in, then weld it around the top, just spot welds, obviously letting it cool between welds as its plastic inside.

Then it shouldn’t come out and it gets pushed up anyway most of the time.

When it needs replacing again just grind off the welds and do it all again!
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Post by: JamesH on August 14, 2008, 10:20:45 AM: You'd be welding to a cast knuckle so it's gonna be hard to do a good job and keep the joint cool. I'm very far from a knowledgable welder but I believe you would need to heat the cast material before and after welding to almost red hot.

You'll probably be able to find a Grand breaking on Ebay that you could get the axle from.

The possible differences between similar age Jeeps might be whether they have universal joint driveshafts and you have CV joints, similar where the propshaft attaches to the diff, gear ratio is important and some are high pinion whereas others were low pinion.
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Post by: mrzj on August 14, 2008, 10:35:37 AM: it should be ok id reacon it dont need to be a mega strong weld
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Post by: mrzj on August 14, 2008, 10:38:00 AM: i've welded brake line mounts to the back 35 with no problems
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Post by: BlazerPaul on August 14, 2008, 10:45:19 AM: Built the outer of the new ball joint up with weld, one tack at a time then cooled & filed back. It's a nice tight fit now. Assembled it last night but have some alignment issues somewhere. ABS hub is catching top of ball joint. Got to investigate further tonight.

Paul
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Post by: JamesH on August 14, 2008, 11:40:15 AM: Quote from: "mrzj"
i've welded brake line mounts to the back 35 with no problems

To the diff housing or the tube? The housing is cast, whereas the tubes are just mild steel.
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Post by: mrzj on August 14, 2008, 11:51:43 AM: nice work!
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Post by: BlazerPaul on August 14, 2008, 10:27:23 PM: :-D
All sorted and happy again.
Few more grey hairs tho!!
The taper on the new ball joint was slightly different to the original, so wasn't goin fully into the seat causing the fowling on the ABS rotor. Abit of grinding & filing and all is well.
Makes me wonder if it was the wrong ball joint or a poor quality one!!!

Changing all four joints on the Blazer next week!!! OH NO!!!!

Paul