Here's a link to the TJ blend door actuator repair thread. I should have mentioned earlier, that you should find the actuator on the bottom of the HVAC unit, which should be somewhere near the middle of the dash.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/hot-air-again-blend-door-actuator-repair.464741/#nested_reply_top_post

Hi,

The blend air door that is used to control heat is moved by an electric motor. Ive seen on US forums that these can gum up as the grease lubricating them hardens. They can be stripped apart and cleaned. They are also available new on rockauto.com if you need to actually replace it. Not sure if RHD and LHD use the same motor or a mirror image piece, but if you get yours off you can compare to the pics on rockauto. The link below is for the 4.0L but the HVAC motor should be the same for petrol and diesel models.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1999,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1431776,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+air+door+actuator,10721

I'll see if I can find the repair thread.

All power for the windows goes through the drivers door switch. Most likely cause is probably a break in the wiring in the door jamb.

For locks check fuse 15 and circuit breaker 28 in the interior junction block. All power for locks routes through the passenger door lock module. Again possibly a break in the door jamb wiring.

Dont know if anybody can help me, my 1999 XJ 2.5TD heater has stop blowing cold air it only lets hot air through, never used to be like this so has something seized up in the heater unit or broken in the electric system.
I have also recently lost the use of the passenger side electric windows and total central locking operation, is there a connection!!
In the 12 years I've had the Jeep the air con has never worked but i still had some cold air come through the vents, now its only warm or hot, not a problem in winter i know but it gets too hot on warm days unless i driving with the windows down.
Any advice what to look for would be appreciated.
Ian

Yep, I have been in touch with Ian, he is a busy man.

Did you contact bisleywrangler?
If not click here to do so --> https://birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?action=pm;sa=send;u=6217

I'm still struggling to find someone to carry out this work for me, didn't think it would be so hard. Not everyone can fit their own lockers.

I've never owned a set of remould tyres, but I have considered them many times. Some years ago a tyre dealer that I used gave me the following advice.

"If they are for a dedicated off-road vehicle then they will be fine. If they are for a vehicle that does most of it's mileage on public roads expect to replace them more frequently as they often wear more quickly than brand new tyres. There could also be a ride quality or handling issue if you are unlucky enough to get one of the tyres with a noticeably stiffer carcass than the others but we won't replace it because we just warned you."

I didn't have enough for a new set of BFG's back in 1999 when I received this advice so I bought a budget brand 'Tacoma MT' that is almost identical to the 2023 Arivo Rock Track MT. They performed well enough on and off road and had good enough wear rate that I sold them a few years later when I went up to a bigger tyre size. I have been running BFG MTs ever since on my off-roaders, with Bridgestone, Pirelli, Yokohama, General Grabber and Goodyear for ATs on other Jeeps. I've bought used Jeeps with a variety of other tyre brands fitted and for my recently acquired 2005 KJ I will likely go for a set of Yokohama GO15 or Toyo AT3.

There are quite a few budget and premium brands that are within £5 more of the Insa Turbo Risko and five that are cheaper. New tyres will have a consistent carcass stiffness. Remould tyres have improved a lot over the years so carcass stiffness may not be an issue anymore.

When it comes to new tyres, 2-ply tyres will usually ride better on the street, weigh less, be more fuel efficient and cheaper to buy. 3-ply tyres will usually resist punctures on and off road much better than a 2-ply, will weigh more, return slightly worse fuel economy and be more expensive.

I no longer buy 2-ply MT tyres for any vehicle that I will drive off-road regularly, but I'm happy to buy 2-ply AT's for occasional off-road use. I have found the 2-ply MT tyres to be a false economy as I have punctured and replaced at least one from each set that I have had, but I have never punctured a BFG MT. Actually, I have, just one KM with only a few thousand miles on it suffered a roofing slate 'dagger' piercing through the sidewall. An agricultural tyre fitter repaired it and it was relegated to an emergency spare. That's not a bad record for eight sets of BFG's in over 20 years.

never fancied remoulds before tbh, but bf goodrich are so pricey...looking for 31/10.5/15 to use offroad in mud and rock. Any experiences with then here?? the Risko model looks good.

SORRY FOR SLOW UPDATE: i set float height as per the weber manuals advice and reset idle. sooo much better! thx all.

I ran 33 x 12.5 x 15 tyres on 15 x 8 wheels with 4" backspacing for a few weeks before lifting my TJ. Anything more than the smallest of bumps or any flex could result in rubbing.

Typically you would need 3-4 inches of lift to run 33s on a TJ, and may need to add a washer or two to the steering stop bolts if there's any rubbing at full lock.