Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Stal1878]

Hi there. I've got a '96 XJ 4.0 with single point LPG. I've had it a couple of weeks now and am gathering the parts to give it a full service:

Engine oil
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
Spark Plugs
HT Leads
Distributor Cap and Rotor
Auto Oil
Tcase Oil
Diff Oils

I've got the plugs(Bosch) and oil filter(Fram PH16), will be getting 10w40 semi synthetic engine oil.

Main question is HT leads. I've never had a petrol vehicle before, and am a bit confused over the wide range and price differences(from £15 to £80+) between HT leads, can anyone offer any help on this?

Will the LPG system have a filter in? If so where should I start looking for it?

Any other hits/tips would be appreciated.

Thanks chaps, Ben

[gazjeep]

I'll leave the HT leads to someone more techy, purely because you have LPG, if not, just standard ones would be fine.

The only thing I would recomend though is to always use genuine Jeep / Mopar oil filters, they are only £6 from a dealer 

[JamesH]

Just get a mid range HT lead, they aren't fussy but my 4.0 on LPG benefits from new ignition components more frequently than most petrol only cars.

I'd also suggest going for a genuine Jeep/Mopar engine oil filter, they aren't expensive and don't cause issues with oil sensors that non-Jeep ones can do.

The fuel filter is in the petrol tank on my XJ so it's not really a service item, if yours is different then change it but mine's the original and I've done 140k miles on it with no probs.

[eastryjeep]

Dont forget the friction modifier additive when you change the Diff oil.

[Panic mechanic!]

lpg will have an in-line filter and to be honest as you are messing about with gas I would let a professional installer service it.

[Stal1878]

Thanks chaps.

Nearest dealer is 75+ miles away I think, so I have bought the same fram filter as its got on now. I bought the HT leads from the local motor factors for about £20 I think, will have to get some more expensive ones if they are no good I suppose. Mine has an inline fuel filter on the chassis rail by the back axle, the "in" side was full of rusty petrol, have one coming tomorrow. I've ordered the LSD additive(mopar) from ebay I also have a new belt coming, wish me luck 

Ah right, if the LPG filter is inline then I will leave it, I don't want to go anywhere near the gas.

Also, not the right thread but:

Both the clock and the radio run off the same power source. (key off)When I plug the radio in the clock loses power and resets, radio will not turn on. With the key on the clock works ok, radio still wont come on. Appears that somehow the memory 12v feed has lost the power to supply both the radio and clock? Anyone have any ideas? I did weld some brackets on the exhaust today(which is the only thing thats changed, if the failure wasn't ramdom), but don't know how this would cause the above trouble?

Cheers

[Panic mechanic!]

if its got an aftermarket stereo,then you need to switch the live and switched live in the loom adapter.

[Stal1878]

I had the radio working fine until yesterday.

I got the voltmeter out just now. When I started I had 2v on the perm live with the key off and on. Then it died and now has 0v. The switched live has 12v with the key on like it should.

So looks like something has killed the permanent live, any ideas what this could be? Does it have a different fuse to the No13 15a under the drivers dash the radio switched uses?

Edit: Also, if the perm live is dead and cannot be fixed, is there another permanent live around the radio area I can tap into?

Cheers

[Stal1878]

Just been out again, perm live is showing 2.7v again(must have lost earth last time to get 0v reading).

Definitly the problem though, I brought a live in direct from the battery through the window and both clock and radio work as they should with that piggy backed into the perm live wire.

So, what could have caused the perm live to be supplying 2.7v instead of 12v? Confused

[MOCAJ]

dodgy wire somewhere i reckon, replace it 

[Dave69]

previous owner hasn't wired it into the starter solenoid feed ?

[Stal1878]

The wiring in the dash was cut to buggery, don't see any dodgy stuff under the bonnet though. I find it odd it was working before and suddenly decided 2.7v was all it wanted to give =/

Does anyone know where I can get a live from, or how to get a wire through the bulkhead, from what I can see of the bulkhead it looks like a terrible task! 

Cheers

[Panic mechanic!]

if its only giving 2.7v  then I would isolate it as best as you can cos its shorting somewhere, and you are going to be greeted by a nice warm fire one day.

[Dave69]

live feed direct from the battery with an inline fuse