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[Brynjaminjones]

I apologise for continual stupid questions, but hopefully you guys can help on this one.

I replaced the front calipers on the ZJ the other day, and although the brakes work fine, I'm not convinced that the brake pedal is as firm as it should be. I'm pretty confident it's holding pressure fine, but it just seems soft to me.

I bled the brakes with a line off the nipple, into a container of new fluid. I had Emily pump the pedal until firm, I then opened the nipple, closed it, and got her to release the pedal and repeat. I did this from longest brake line to shortest.
By the end there was no air coming out.

What could be causing the soft pedal? Should I try bleeding again?
Also, the front brake pads seem to be wearing unevenly. Could this gradual engagement with the disc due to the angle of the pad surface be causing this?

[wildwood]

There is cheap bleed,kit that looks like 1/2 pint of milk (container) with tube going through lid. Tube has one way valve in it.
Used it on the 1 ton and believe me they were a bitch. Did it single handed and have done others in the mean time and reccommend this type of kit.

The eazibleed powered ones don't work......the mags try em and are always disappointed.

It's the one way valve in the tube that stops air being sucked back up.

I started with a small tube that had a one way valve in it many years ago it worked well but just got messy with fluid spilling everywhere.


You're on the right track just another go with some different kit

[5536paulj]

Bryn, I've had my best results with one of these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINIVAC-MINI-VAC-VACUUM-HAND-PUMP-WITH-PRESSURE-GAUGE-/270745631326

And I'm talking about bleeding brakes not some of the other uses listed, although now I know about them maybe I should give it a go

PJ

[Dave69]

mityvac

but they are only as good as the push on pipe seal used on the brake nipple

[Mike Pavelin]

Is the pedal firm with the engine turned off?

[georgen]

could also be perished flexy lines, they swell when end of life, giving a spongy feeling. also any play in your wheel bearings up front would cause excessive peddle movement but it would pump up.
Just a couple of more things to add to what's been added.

[Brynjaminjones]

Thanks guys. I've actually got a Mityvac (equivalent) but couldn't get a good seal at all on the nipple. After trying that for far too long I bled it normally.

This afternoon I noticed a wet rear right caliper that seemed to maybe be coming from the bleed nipple. After tightening that some more I think the pedal feel may have improved!
I will try bleeding again soon...


Also, yes, the pedal has always been completely firm with the engine off.

[Brynjaminjones]

Time for another question!
I've just driven about 200 miles with no issue, but after extended hard braking down a very long slow steep hill the front brakes are smoking and smelling, but nowhere near as badly as when they got stuck on.
Does this mean they're still sticking, or could it be because the pads might be in poor condition after the previous cooking?

Sent from my C5303 using Tapatalk

[big g]

Them pads been fried.

[Brynjaminjones]

I thought that was probably all, new pads should fix??
I did wonder why I didn't do them at the same time...

Sent from my C5303 using Tapatalk

[Mike Pavelin]

If the pedal is firm with no servo assistance, there's probably no need to bleed again, it's just worryguts syndrome. If you've fitted new calipers, but the brakes are sticking, look for notches worn into the steering knuckle casting where the pads slide..

[Brynjaminjones]

The grooves are actually quite bad, and I didn't sand them down like I did my XJ so that could explain it.
Would that explain why they only bind when they get hot?

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[Mike Pavelin]

Very possible.

[Dave69]

your learning fast young padawan

[Dave69]

Them pads been fried.

not just yet, them pads will take alot more punishment before they fail

brake fluid will boil before pads give up