Topic: suspension lift (Read 6716 times)

Dave69 · « **on:** October 16, 2006, 10:56:11 AM »

I'll be replacing the suspension on the old xj marshmallow hopefully next month if it goes to plan, and i'm looking at the procomp 3" rear and 2.5" front. I'm not 100% with the add a leaf and shackle lift setups theat are available (just my view). Just to cover a few queries that i have with a lift of this height.
the rear axle is shimmed and the transfer case is dropped to keep the drive line aligned.
at 2.5" lift on the front it retains the std control arms but these will need to be replaced if raised to 3".
Would i need to replace the std pitman arm for a dropped one on a 2.5" lift.
Would it be a good idea to replace all the brake lines for longer ones while i'm at it or have people found the std length ok ?
Poly bushes will be fitted as parts are changed.
Making parts and machining isn't a problem for dropping items and shims, just some things a re better bought and fitted in one go rather than thinkning after i should have done that when it was all apart.
Tyres will be replaced but after reading lots of articles not 100% on what i can get away with.

all views welcomed. the lift height isn't set in stone so still reviewing the options, but it's not an open cheque book either

greggmo · « **Reply #1 on:** October 16, 2006, 11:14:56 AM »

it sounds like a skyjacker kit or something along those lines would do what you want. the main reason to buy a kit is that you get everything you need. there are a few guys running out of the box kits and they work very well and are an easy enough job to fit realy. i am sure some of the cherokee guys will give ya some pointers.

chrisjones · « **Reply #2 on:** October 16, 2006, 11:50:54 AM »

The Explorer kit sounds OK. Decide if you want to go to 3" at the front for the extra cash.

You shouldn't need to extend the brake lines, just relocate the mounts for them, and you don't need a dropped pitman arm with a three inch lift.

Take a look at Skyjacker and, R.E. (Rubicon Express) on the U.S. sites while you are at it. They do some nice kits and at a good price even with shipping an tax added.

Also take a look on Rustys Off Road. They do some good kits (the 4.5" kit that Tim has is only a bit more money than the 2.5" kit from Explorer).

Finally...you're right to avoid kits with add-a-leaf or shackle lifts. If your springs are shot, this is not the way to go.

Dave69 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 16, 2006, 01:22:55 PM »

any idea on potential shipping costs for a lift kit from the USA

any views on the rancho lift kits, good bad ??

chrisjones · « **Reply #4 on:** October 16, 2006, 02:19:55 PM »

Give Quadratec or 4WD a ring, or use Quadratecs online service under the help section on their site. Choose a kit which is the kind of thing you want and ask how much it would be to ship it. They're both good sites, but for overseas orders it really is best to speak to them.

Not sure about Rancho stuff, I've bot got any experience of it, but I would recomend taking a look at Rustys stuff.

Dave69 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 16, 2006, 02:30:38 PM »

ive emailed quadratec and awaiting reply but just wondering what other people have done rusties is my next point of call

barttheguinnessguy · « **Reply #6 on:** October 16, 2006, 03:08:33 PM »

Quote from: "Dave69"

any idea on potential shipping costs for a lift kit from the USA

£68 ($127) shipping for a lift kit and a diff gaurd from Rocky Roads in Utah

. Had to pay £44 import duty/vat on top when it got here though.

Dave69 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 16, 2006, 03:24:59 PM »

thanks for that, swaying towards the rusty's set up at the moment, anyone got any views on the company

with a 3" lift being on the limit for needind major improvements to the driveline and steering etc, would adjustable lower control arms need to be fitted, some sites say yes and others don't mention the need.

i don't want to sound like im asking daft questions just that i'd like to get it 99% done in one go and then adress things as the suspension settles and beds itself in.

chrisjones · « **Reply #8 on:** October 16, 2006, 04:11:18 PM »

Any 3" lift kit worth having will have replacement lower arms. These ain't going to be adjustable, but you shouldn't need adjustable ones anyway just arms the right length. If you think you may want to add a little more lift in the future (an inch or so) then an upgrade on the kit to adjustable arms might be worth it in the long run. You will also need either a track bar relocation bracket, or an adjustable track bar. Watch what you're buying though cos all the adjustables that come with the U.S. kits are for LHD trucks and don't fit. :wink:

Relocation brackets are much easier to adapt.

Dave69 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 16, 2006, 07:28:06 PM »

thanks for pointing that out, it's quiet easy to get the wrong part when your looking for bits

ponyracer1 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 16, 2006, 07:52:32 PM »

Look up the RE 3.5 super ride kit. Prob more money but it's a great kit. I've got the 5.5 kit and I LOVE it. Rusty's have good stuff but rip you off on the shipping and half the time send you the wrong stuff.

3.5 with let you run 31's easily with minor trimming.

Mike Pavelin · « **Reply #11 on:** October 16, 2006, 08:12:00 PM »

Mike Pavelin · « **Reply #12 on:** October 16, 2006, 08:12:44 PM »

Speaking from experience....

At 3" :

Stock pitman arm is ok...You should keep the draglink and track bar parallel to avoid bump steer.

Redrill the track bar mounting hole on the axle to centre the axle, it'll only be about 1/2 to 1 inch out. If the new hole is too close to the old one weld a plate or washer in as reinforcement.

The front lower arms are ok, but will limit downward travel a little compared with, say RE Superflex arms.

You will lose a little caster with stock front lower arms when the Jeep is lifted. Adding a bout 1/4 inch of shim behind the lower arm mounts on the chassis will restore this.

Depending on the spring design, the very short shackle on the rear spring may limit movement, fitting extended shackles will eliminate this, but will require a small amount of tail pipe tweaking to stop the exhaust rattling against the shackle.

The pinion and rear output UJs must be set to run parallel to eliminate torsional vibration. In addition, early XJs had very limited flex available on the transfer case end of the rear prop due to the design of the slip yoke. This means that the joint binds on itself, sometimes even in normal conditions, so check this carefully with the axle fully dropped. If you do have the early joint, swap in the slip yoke from a YJ and you'll have doubled the flex available on that UJ. You should then be able to adjust the position of the rear axle to get the joints parallel and reduce driveline vibration to a minimum.

If the results of this setup is not acceptable the transfer case can be lowered or the engine mounts raised to tilt the transmission slightly don to the rear allowing a shallower propshaft angle.

Front brake lines are just about long enough if you straighten out the S shape on the metal line and move the mounting downwards, but to be honest, they're old, and the rear is really too short so replace them.

Longer shocks will be required to take advantage of the new setup, and fit longer bump stops. Sway bar disconnects up front are a must. Depending on how you feel about the handling with the new suspenion, you may want to either bin the rear sway bar, or make up disconnectable links for it.
Tyre wise, 31" will be the limit, and you will start to lose a noticable amount of performance at that size without regearing. The fronts will also rub on full lock unless you fit rims with less backspacing, spacers or adjust the lock stops. Don't go too wide or they'll foul all over the place on the front wings without trimming.

daggie · « **Reply #13 on:** October 16, 2006, 09:49:58 PM »

I was gonna say that. :roll:

I can't add anymore

greggmo · « **Reply #14 on:** October 16, 2006, 09:56:41 PM »

well said mike... both times.

Dave69 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 17, 2006, 07:48:56 AM »

hear hear,

thanks for all the info guys, you now have put me on the straight and narrow or should that be the bumpy and twisty.
the point about doing the research into this is that you get to know what the general names people call things. Ive got the general idea of what now will need to be done so i can get slightly prepared.

Is it worth just doing away with the rear anti roll bar (4ltr auto 93')as TBH they dont seem to do alot ?

chrisjones · « **Reply #16 on:** October 17, 2006, 07:57:50 AM »

When you do the lift junk it.

Dave69 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 18, 2006, 08:07:10 AM »

given the variety of packages on the market it does get to be a bit of a mine field, and decisions/options change as quick as the wind. I have decided to go with the R.E. 3.5 lift as it a well known and everything is there.
most of the information quoted states that 31x10.5x15 tyres can be fitted as std with no modification. How realistic is this ? I get the feeling that they might need to be spaced out (how much ?) and a bit of fender trimming might be needed, or do they quote it will be ok if you only drive on the road

chrisjones · « **Reply #18 on:** October 18, 2006, 08:21:33 AM »

You shouldn''t get any body rub with 31"s on standard offset rims. Maybe just a small amount at the front on full lock, but some very minor trimming should fix that.

You will get some rub on the chassis and lower control arms though. The easiest way to fix it is to adjust the steering stops...you'll reduce the lock available but it's an easier fix than increased offset rims and lots of body trimming. If there is an option for high clearance control arms on the RE kit go for that cos it will reduce the problems :wink:

Dave69 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 18, 2006, 09:55:00 AM »

the transfer case drop is the first thing on my list, as i have the facilities to fabricate various sizes if the vibrations start. If the wife lets me before she realises what i'm doing, i'll probably go over the top with it and fit most of the items needed fo a higher lift. with a referance of 17" from wheel centre to wheel arch the rear has sagged by 1" but i have suggested to her that when the saggy suspension has been swapped it will be the same height as her old izusu trooper, "that will be nice she" she said, either i'll get away with it or i'm in for a big lecture with stern words.

chrisjones · « **Reply #20 on:** October 18, 2006, 10:51:56 AM »

Good luck mate. :lol:

Dave69 · « **Reply #21 on:** October 18, 2006, 11:43:40 AM »

i think i've got it sorted, the wife is using the jeep for college and she is now complaining how soft it is round corners, good job ive left it in 4wd in these wet conditions, for a safety point of view obviously

tim_aka_tim · « **Reply #22 on:** October 23, 2006, 07:35:21 AM »

Sorry I'm late to this party, I've kinda been in Texas.
No problems with the Rusty's 4.5" kit, just the usual things, like a LHD trackbar having to be modded to RHD. Went on easily, but the main thing is that she flexes like a bitch! Was about £750 delivered after import tax and shipping.

Author Topic: suspension lift (Read 6716 times)

ponyracer1

Mike Pavelin

Mike Pavelin