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Author Topic: TJ Hub upgrade  (Read 5863 times)

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Warthog

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TJ Hub upgrade
« on: January 20, 2007, 01:18:41 PM »

After a bit of head scratchin, in pro of making/mock-up front hubs for Asylums TJ. Modified the Stub axle and increased the size of the shaft. Machined a new bearing housing.

But on paper, i dropped a Boo,boo! The bearings i specced up are £70 each, need 4 off....Doh :lol:

Any comments?

I know this is a critical componant. So safety issue's have been cosidered and the images are in mock up. Making as an excercise to see whats possible :)

Has anyone got any images of the Warn Hubs you can get?





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ponyracer1

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« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2007, 04:33:00 PM »

Um why???? All your going to do is move the "fuse" farther into the axle. Unless your modding the carrier also bigger shafts will have to neck down to go into the stock carrier. When running big tires on the D30 the shaft ears/U joint is the weak link. If you go with alloy shafts/CTM's then the ring and pinion become the weak link.

Guy's in the states that don't play in rocks are running up to 38's on a dana 30 with stock shafts and X760 U joints. I wouldn't but it's do-able.

Does look good though, if you need bearings post up the number and I'll see what I can source from "other" country's.
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Mike Pavelin

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« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2007, 04:48:43 PM »

Early XJs and YJs before 1990 M/Y had hubs with replacable bearings if you really want them, the part number is 53000228. You can get the whole unit brand new off the shelf for about $150 US. They just have a different flange offset so you have to use the equivalent model year brake discs or a thin spacer. Otherwise, the last pair of unit hub assemblies I imported cost me about £75 each including shipping and taxes anyway, I just treat them as a consumable at that price.
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Warthog

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« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2007, 05:38:48 PM »

Quote from: "ponyracer1"
Um why???? All your going to do is move the "fuse" farther into the axle. Unless your modding the carrier also bigger shafts will have to neck down to go into the stock carrier. When running big tires on the D30 the shaft ears/U joint is the weak link. If you go with alloy shafts/CTM's then the ring and pinion become the weak link.

Guy's in the states that don't play in rocks are running up to 38's on a dana 30 with stock shafts and X760 U joints. I wouldn't but it's do-able.

Does look good though, if you need bearings post up the number and I'll see what I can source from "other" country's.


Very good point on moving the next weakest link to another area :arrow: Too be able to replace the bearings only, at reduced cost.

 :arrow: Cost of the Hub assemblies are high, so im told? £170 each (Asylum paid from Lighthouse, i believe)

As to the shaft ears and UJ, bet thats why you have turned to Yota front axle? Monster CV joints and Shafts as stock...

Been looking at Toyota 80 rear for my Lardy and Nissan Patrol for the front............BUT

UNIMOG IS THE WAY TO GO :D
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MK1

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« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2007, 05:49:20 PM »

I bought the D30 on the CJ from KingCJ.

It has a locker, chrome shafts and huge Ox joints. He said the R+P was now the weak spot, especially with a 360 fitted!

He fitted fuse links into the Warn hubs to help a little, but still blew it eventually.
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ponyracer1

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« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2007, 06:18:03 PM »

After looking at the cost I've decided to stay with the D30/8.8 combo. She'll stand up to 35's, prob 37's in this country if driven somewhat sensibly.

Good idea on the replaceable bearings. Provided you can get them for less than 70 quid each!!!
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Warthog

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« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2007, 07:27:36 PM »

Quote from: "ponyracer1"
After looking at the cost I've decided to stay with the D30/8.8 combo. She'll stand up to 35's, prob 37's in this country if driven somewhat sensibly.

Good idea on the replaceable bearings. Provided you can get them for less than 70 quid each!!!



I think Asylum was hoping you would go the Mogster way :lol:

Yota and Nissan Parts are pricey here (UK) :(  Have been looking for a good breakers, but they are far and few.....

As to the bearings, will have a look into alternatives. £70 was for TIMKEN Double Spherical roller.  Double or single roller bearings, may suffice?
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ponyracer1

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« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2007, 09:19:47 PM »

What are the #'s for the ones you need? What type of bearings came out of the stock hub? They seem to last very well.
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isle of man

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« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2007, 09:23:34 PM »

i have double roller bearing on my rear axle (after trying the set 20 ) but they are off.........................wait for it...........................................
a citroen but they cost £60gbp each.
why don't you just source the uni bearing from the usa they are only about $110usd.

warn front hubs are hardcore................nice.


peter henry
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ponyracer1

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« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2007, 09:31:15 PM »

Quote from: "isle of man"

warn front hubs are hardcore................nice.


peter henry


Unless you really want to get crazy, billa vista on pirate I think it was did a right up of putting Cj dana 30 ineer knuckles and the outers with lockouts on an xj dana 30. Lot of work but it saved like $1000.
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isle of man

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« Reply #10 on: January 20, 2007, 10:26:50 PM »

Quote from: "ponyracer1"
Quote from: "isle of man"

warn front hubs are hardcore................nice.


peter henry

Unless you really want to get crazy, billa vista on pirate I think it was did a right up of putting Cj dana 30 ineer knuckles and the outers with lockouts on an xj dana 30. Lot of work but it saved like $1000.


yes but warn has those fuse rings that tear before the shaft and can be changed in less than 10 min's on the trial l believe.
really is i nice bit of kit, expensive i admit but truly hardcore.

i have the d60 version on the front of my wrangler


peter henry
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Mike Pavelin

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« Reply #11 on: January 21, 2007, 09:21:02 AM »

You can change the fuse in your $1000 Warn hubs in 10 min or change to a secondhand $50 spare shaft assembly with your $79 unit bearing in 15 min. The price of a pair of Warn hubs buys an awful lot of spares for those of us without large budgets. Having only broken one front UJ in 3 years, and that was doing something really stupid, it wouldn't make sense for me.
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JamesH

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« Reply #12 on: January 21, 2007, 10:14:00 AM »

I have seen a Dana 30 R&P destroyed on a vehicle with Warn hub fuses. It seems the fuse was too strong for a TJ D30 running 35s to work as it should. An XJ D30 is stronger in that department though so maybe it would correct the problem?
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ponyracer1

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« Reply #13 on: January 21, 2007, 12:04:35 PM »

Quote from: "JamesH"
I have seen a Dana 30 R&P destroyed on a vehicle with Warn hub fuses. It seems the fuse was too strong for a TJ D30 running 35s to work as it should. An XJ D30 is stronger in that department though so maybe it would correct the problem?


The TJ/XJ D30 is identical. The only diff is the TJ is low pinion as is the 99+ XJ's.

Does the low pinion ride on the coast side of the gears? If so they would be a little weaker but not much.
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JamesH

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« Reply #14 on: January 21, 2007, 12:24:04 PM »

Weaker R&P setup - low pinion setup in a front axle quoted as being around 25% weaker for the D30.

I'm not 100% whether it's due to riding on the coast side of the gears but HP vs LP the HP is the stronger - hence why people hunt out HP D44 fronts in the states so much.

I think trussing helps a lot with R&P breakages as the housing can't flex as much and distort the gear-mesh.

I can only speak from what I've read and the few breakages I've seen as I haven't run big enough tyres or thrashed mine hard enough to break my D30 yet.
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ponyracer1

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« Reply #15 on: January 21, 2007, 01:31:25 PM »

I believe your right, they do run on the coast side of the gears. Will be trussing my HP D30 soon to try an make her live another year.
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Bubba

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« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2007, 10:27:01 PM »

i realy like the truss route i think it can make for a good mod that works
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